britrest

I have ordered a new plug and pins and will make a nice long pigtail to join to the Driver Block Will report back when the parts come - Christmas post is very slow!

Looks to me like bad connections - I am going to rewire the multi plug that comes from the main harness to the driver pack - there are pin holes all over and looks like the salt air has got in - dull red copper and looking sad. As I cannot find a good used pigtail here looks like I will order the pins from Polevolt and make my own, and put about a foot of new wire in there as even further up some of the wires there are pin holes from testers Something is real odd as this morning I faked the pressure switch by removing it from the plug and fitting a manual switch in its place - the system must have been charging the tank for as soon as I flicked the switch the back end shot up - but only the right hand side! this was real odd as it went way too high and looked like the air bag was going to burst (well at least no leaks!) the pump does not switch off, and the contact of the pressure switch do close but I do not know at what pressure

Thanks for that Alastair - will give it a looking at As for the delay timer - I read somewhere this can be removed - problem is I have read so many pages I forgot where it was! But this timer is one of the things I may have misunderstood - I read it can be the cause of flat batteries as it can switch on the pump with the ignition off Will check out the forum

As this was a Land Rover refurbished unit (valve block and pump) I am reluctant to strip it and break the seal and invalidate any warranty - this has done zero km's as it is on it's bump stops so trying to eliminate any other problems first if I put power into the valves (Not recommended for a long period) you can hear them click - this does not mean they are opening, but a click all the same, however when all plugged together with ECU, Driver pack etc in place - there is no clicking at all - the wires check out so I will have a look Monday and see if there is an output from the ECU to the driver block - if there is, the must be bad driver block, if no power then it has to be the ECU to check the output of the driver pack is tricky as it is on a pulse wave and requires an oscilloscope to check the signal - so maybe the ECU is not putting out enough voltage to the Driver pack in order to generate the 24 KHz 12 volt signal required It would have been nice to put known working parts on this truck as even new parts have been known to be dead on arrival

Thanks for the replies I am leaning towards the ECU and will have an attack on Monday to see if it is putting a signal out - I was told the ECU puts out a 12 volt signal to the driver block which then converts it to a PWM signal to operate the valves and it is not good practice to put 12 volt direct to the valves. I would have thought it was the other way round but it is a Land Rover after all! I know it is not the pump as it is working on its own with no trick wiring and I have spent more time reading about this than working on the car - just wondering if someone has had similar problems With the doors closed and the engine running the pump runs and dash lights are normal - it is on low and the STD heigh light is blinking The pump is working hard as the inlet is not opening = the Lynx unit shows the inlet and rear valves open (as it should) but nothing happens it is the most illogical car I have worked on - no wonder other garages back heeled it! I used to have one of these cars years ago and it was good for swapping parts over to fault find - I know what these cars are like and it is so easy to swap a defective part for one that is defective and thus go round in circles!

I wonder if you can help with a problem P38a I am having – I just need some ideas! I have a small Land Rover workshop in Canada and I mainly do Defenders and Discovery diesels, but I seem to get lumbered with Freelander’s and P38’s which I have little interest in! So on a tow truck a few weeks back, came in a nice looking P38a sat on the bump stops – this has been passed from pillar to post as no one wants to know so finally I said I would sort it out It arrived with a refurbished valve block and pump from Land Rover ($1700 fitted!) 4 new standard air springs and correctly fitted But it will not lift When I first got the car the pump was not working, so I did the usual checks on the fuse box, relays etc – all was working but there was a hack on to the green feed wire for the pump to make it work without the ECU input. So I checked all the wires and although messy and full of holes from others prodding and poking with test meters, it seems to be fine. There is continuity on all wires to the EAS box under the dash I have the Britpart Lynx diagnostic system which is made by Omitec the makers of the test book so I can read all codes and operate the valves and check the heights etc. The ECU shows no codes at all and I can communicate with it. I cannot operate the valve block with the Lynx nor will the P38 ECU so I checked all the valves by hand using a 12v test lead and all make a nice click – and by blowing compressed air the valve block is working – but only if operated by hand and a few wires. So the only logical think I could think of was the Driver pack was shot = so I got an OEM unit from Allmakes – when fitted the pump was working fine – but pumping like there was a blockage – so I checked all the lines and the dryer – all good. Seems like the inlet is not opening. I noticed even though the Lynx was showing status of the ECU showing rear valves / input open and front closed (normal for an empty system) the valves were not clicking - I even got a buddy of mine to listen to be sure So as last resort I followed Falconworks suggestion of the following: For P38a, below the LH front seat are two stacked ECUs. The lower one is the EAS ECU (control module). On the left hand side is the system relay (small black box). For Classic the components are under the RHF seat. Disconnect the relay. Gently un-latch the 35-pin connector on the front and swing it out and off its hook. Remove the forward cover from the connector so you can see the pin numbers molded into the side of the connector: it slides off endwise and requires no force. Collect the two loose insets - do not misplace them, you can't order new ones. The pin numbers are molded into the back of the connector. 1. PIN #1 is hot 2. PIN #8 goes off to power the pump relay. The system overpressure switch sends its information to the ECU: when you run the pump without an ECU connected you have NO OVERPRESSURE PROTECTION. Only connect this pin to power when you know you need more air. 3. PIN #9 is the exhaust solenoid. When powered it lets air out of whichever spring's solenoid is also powered. 4. PIN #26 is the inlet solenoid. Similarly it lets air into whichever spring's solenoid is also powered. The springs' pins are: 1. LHF #10 2. RHF #27 3. LHR #11 4. RHR #28 To go up fit jumper to pins #1, #8, #26 and one of the springs. Refit the relay. Remove the relay when done. Rewire for the next spring and repeat the process. To go down fit the jumper to pins #1, #9, and one of the springs. Refit the relay. Remove the relay when done. Etc So still nothing not a click from the valves – but now I am worried I may have blown the Driver unit by feeding it 12 volts not a computer signal So you have any idea why the car is saying it is doing something, but no result? I have a feeling the ECU is defective, but I have nothing to substitute - which is making life hard – I have a feeling the ECU is like flicking a light switch and saying yeah I really have the switch on – but the bulb has gone – so no ECU faults as it cannot detect them Does anyone have any ideas what this could be? I have worked on these trucks before and the EAS was pretty easy to fix with common faults - but this is a nightmare as I do not know what others may have done – and I have no known used working parts to substitute Logic says it should work, in practice not!

Hi guys Real strange problem on a Freelander 2/ LR2 Front wipers completely dead - washers work, rear works fine I checked the motor and on the bench it works just fine Fuses fine, substitutes relays and still nothing, however when I follow the wiring diagram, the main relay that is switched on from the Junction Box Central (P101) Now I have no idea where this is as there is no component location page in the workshop manual I have, however it is a white wire that is grounded via an ECU somehow If I remove the relay and jump the main contacts hey presto we have wipers - so the switch works as it should - but they will not switch off! So the question is, is this common, can it be reprogrammed or is it something deeper - this car has rain sensors - could it be possible that that part may be defective? But there is no wash wipe action - washers yes but no wipe Sounds an expensive fix if it is the ECU Any ideas? Mike

Many thanks again - looks as if I am pretty close so I am going to take a chance and make an adaptor - I have one last (promise) question - what is the approximate angle of the compressor outlet pipe - the one I have is horizontal but I can move it round and drill and tap the body to re locate the waste-gate valve

Thanks! You're a super star! Can I ask one other thing? Have you the fibreglass cover over the exhaust? Does this cover the exhaust part of the turbo or all the turbo? I have only seen one in place - most are broken off and this one does not have the bracket so that is why I am in the dark Thanks again Mike

Hi there - I have a customer who has brought a 200 tdi engine in a box of parts and asked me to rebuild it - pretty easy but he supplied a replacement turbo which is not a Garret - it looks the same but it is water-cooled The thing is although it fits perfectly on the manifold flange, I have an idea it is larger than the original - which was not supplied! There are no marks on the turbo so I cannot trace it - could be a knock off Chinese thing but better than nothing The downpipe casting is there and original but the bolt pattern is different on the new turbo - so I may have to make an adaptor - BUT when fitting the turbo to the engine it looks taller and my concern is will the bonnet close!!! So my question is, could one of you be so kind as to measure from the rocker box top to the highest point of the turbo so I can compare this? AND if someone was real kind could establish how much room there is between the bonnet and top of turbo (that may be asking too much!) I have no 200's in stock and I only do 300's, so I am pretty stuck Thanks in advance, Mike Canada

I bought a 130 with no towing bracket - I have seen them before so I know what is involved. Can make one pretty easy but would like to get the shape right - so if there are some pics with dimensions I would really appreciate it! I am in Canada so getting one from the UK is pretty expensive, and I have to modify it to fit the North American style receiver into it, so I need to make one from scratch Another thing I need to make is a spare wheel carrier - would like some rough dimensions and a pic of that too Thanks in advance Mike