Duncan

I'm starting just this on my lwt and have the YRM mounts so will feedback when get time to crack on. I liked the LHD/RHD combo but got talked out of it as the Ackerman angles (Steering geometry) are messed up and extra stress on that arm.

Hi Snagger thanks for feedback! I'm happy with the back end as with the extended shackles it's slightly inclined but acceptable and flexes well and moves/matches well with the front axle not looking to extend the rear hangers as then would be lifted more than the front. The front is working well as it is so not wanting to adjust with longer shackles - just as it's sitting flat now the tracking bar of the disco axle should be exactly where i don't want it-but will physically see that when test fitting soon. Cheers for confirming parallel for the rear diff pinion as I have no disco's around to check with. At the front will set at 3 degrees and then see what the steering is looking like. Only a couple of inches lifted and going wider stance with axles so evens out:)

Yeah that is true, Hoop style and bolt on then is the winner, getting the rear axle mounts tacked on the wkend hopefully:)

I like that plan but I'm thinking if that bolt was at 90% to where it is now it wouldn't bind the rubber when articulating as much. Bare tubes so nows the time to think these lil bits through.

Hi Everyone, Finally getting around to this along with few other mods and general MOT work. I have a set of 92 Disco axles that I am fitting under my lightweight, I have the axles ground back to bare tubes and ready to fit but thinking ahead I want to tweak a few other parts and have a few questions to throw out there... Rear Axle I stripped these years ago and have misplaced the measurements of the angle the pinion sits at, I have an inclinometer so plan to set it as it would run on a disco, If it is tilted back a bit how would this affect the rear prop? I plan to fit disco mounts to locate the lower end of the shocks - (to do away with the split pin and washers) but not sure if I will have room for the neccesary travel keeping the top mount. (Have para's and extended shackles) Or maybe keep the loop top and bottom shocks and fit a bolt on style like at the top but at 90 degree to the axle so doesn't twist the rubbers when articulating, Anyone experimented here? Front Axle I have Para's and extended shackles but also have gone too far front twisting mounts so this will sit the springs back level-not ideal with the track rod, I plan to make up extra extra long shackles here to compensate for the height lost in the spring perches clearing the diff buldge (Using YRM premade mounts here-to save time) As the front has the twister mounts I hope that will decrease the extra twisting forces caused by the extra long shackles... Again at the front looking at shock mounts to rid the pin style, and with extra wide axles maybe es9000 shocks. Fitting p38 PAS box after axles so will sort the drag link then.

Yep my folks are away so I moved in haha FYI Sparex now call this simply Landrover blue 82373 Got a good match so happy:) Not the best paint to work with though-cannot recommend.

Sweet! thanks guys I agree with you as well! Will order a pot and see

http://www.malpasonline.co.uk/s/c/accessories/paint/agricolour/blue/paint-tin/m/land-rover Bonnet pic is the most true colour i think.

Someone please help me! final spray of doors, sills, gearbox tunnel today and ran out of paint, It's Sparex agricolor but the sticker with the type of paint has long gone so I don't know if it's windjammer blue, stratos blue, shire blue or straight blue gloss... Was one aimed at Land rovers and it's cellulose. Tins have been in garage for over ten years as well so I'm prepared for a bit of colour difference :/

It's getting harder each year for Insurance I only found 1 company out of all the usual names to insure me last year before I turned 25! Now I'm with Glyn wood and there great I always speak to the same guy and they understand Landys Not bad price as is my only wagon and 15,000 Miles a year, 200tdi etc

I also found the inertia switch square black box with pull up red bit on the top, I figure up is the reset position it was down when I found it, simply lift up or do you have to do something else as well?

Ok I really think this is a dud ECU problem now, I have checked lots of wiring out on the weekend, Power is getting to the starter relay and fuel pump relay they all click on and off as mean't to. the negative to the ECU that is comes from the starter relay through a crazy earth based resistance thing and the automatic inhibitor switch seems fine and no change if you direct earth it. there are just soo many wires disappearing behind the dash it's a nightmare and the haynes wiring diagram is heavily simplified from whats really there. Any decent way to get the engine running without the ECU just so I can check engine is ok and gearbox works before breaking? by 'decent' I mean better than spraying easy start into the air intake!

Old hand - The engine does not crank I was just bypassing it to check starter,sparks etc. Could well be the Immobiliser failed I have been out checking the pins tonight But I can't find any listed as the immobilser to ECU wire!? The ECU has its 12v supply, ignition supply and 2 earths ok. It also has the transmission gear switch(34) working ok so when in Parked it earths-so thats ok. Sends current to fuel rail when ign on like it should But I'm not too sure which outputs to check now from the www.britishv8.org link Ally V8 - that wire sounds perfect, but on mine pin 34 is the trans gear switch so provides an earth when in park so will start, I wonder if the immobilser is in line with this function? If so would appear is alright? Where next folks?

Hi thanks for replies, I previously checked and just rechecked the connector to coil -ve is fine, also the +ve. Ok so sensors will not stop her starting that's good! Iv read that link before and checked a few resistances but couldn't trace the problem. I would be thinking Alram Spider box thing but this is a 1993 Disco. No alarm goes off or flashing light on dash so don't think its the immobilser but I only have 1 key so can't check isnt the Immobiliser. When trying to start theres no signal to the solenoid, When bypassing this the starter works fine but no fuel comes out of the injectors If an Injector was not dodgy but broken could the lack of signal etc cause this? break in a circuit sort of thing. Not sure where to look next :/

Hi all, Iv bought a Disco 1 3.5 v8 Efi that won't start, the previous owner said all was fine then one day-nothing. It's sparking and turning over right, fuel is getting to the fuel rail and you can hear the fuel pump ok, but the injectors don't let the fuel out! The ECU won't let the injectors pulse or even the starter solenoid wire to work. I have checked the resistance on the fuel temp sensor and block they both read a bit of resistance then lower to zero as get heated by a lighter. there is a 3 wire sensor on the downpipe I think is an oxygen sensor-If this is broke could it cause the engine not to start or would it just run rich/lean etc. I can't see any immobiliser and I just have the key. So can any broken/dodgy sensors not let it start? Thanks! Duncan