Duncan

I'm starting just this on my lwt and have the YRM mounts so will feedback when get time to crack on. I liked the LHD/RHD combo but got talked out of it as the Ackerman angles (Steering geometry) are messed up and extra stress on that arm.

Hi Snagger thanks for feedback! I'm happy with the back end as with the extended shackles it's slightly inclined but acceptable and flexes well and moves/matches well with the front axle not looking to extend the rear hangers as then would be lifted more than the front. The front is working well as it is so not wanting to adjust with longer shackles - just as it's sitting flat now the tracking bar of the disco axle should be exactly where i don't want it-but will physically see that when test fitting soon. Cheers for confirming parallel for the rear diff pinion as I have no disco's around to check with. At the front will set at 3 degrees and then see what the steering is looking like. Only a couple of inches lifted and going wider stance with axles so evens out:)

Yeah that is true, Hoop style and bolt on then is the winner, getting the rear axle mounts tacked on the wkend hopefully:)

I like that plan but I'm thinking if that bolt was at 90% to where it is now it wouldn't bind the rubber when articulating as much. Bare tubes so nows the time to think these lil bits through.

Hi Everyone, Finally getting around to this along with few other mods and general MOT work. I have a set of 92 Disco axles that I am fitting under my lightweight, I have the axles ground back to bare tubes and ready to fit but thinking ahead I want to tweak a few other parts and have a few questions to throw out there... Rear Axle I stripped these years ago and have misplaced the measurements of the angle the pinion sits at, I have an inclinometer so plan to set it as it would run on a disco, If it is tilted back a bit how would this affect the rear prop? I plan to fit disco mounts to locate the lower end of the shocks - (to do away with the split pin and washers) but not sure if I will have room for the neccesary travel keeping the top mount. (Have para's and extended shackles) Or maybe keep the loop top and bottom shocks and fit a bolt on style like at the top but at 90 degree to the axle so doesn't twist the rubbers when articulating, Anyone experimented here? Front Axle I have Para's and extended shackles but also have gone too far front twisting mounts so this will sit the springs back level-not ideal with the track rod, I plan to make up extra extra long shackles here to compensate for the height lost in the spring perches clearing the diff buldge (Using YRM premade mounts here-to save time) As the front has the twister mounts I hope that will decrease the extra twisting forces caused by the extra long shackles... Again at the front looking at shock mounts to rid the pin style, and with extra wide axles maybe es9000 shocks. Fitting p38 PAS box after axles so will sort the drag link then.

Yep my folks are away so I moved in haha FYI Sparex now call this simply Landrover blue 82373 Got a good match so happy:) Not the best paint to work with though-cannot recommend.

Sweet! thanks guys I agree with you as well! Will order a pot and see

http://www.malpasonline.co.uk/s/c/accessories/paint/agricolour/blue/paint-tin/m/land-rover Bonnet pic is the most true colour i think.

Someone please help me! final spray of doors, sills, gearbox tunnel today and ran out of paint, It's Sparex agricolor but the sticker with the type of paint has long gone so I don't know if it's windjammer blue, stratos blue, shire blue or straight blue gloss... Was one aimed at Land rovers and it's cellulose. Tins have been in garage for over ten years as well so I'm prepared for a bit of colour difference :/

It's getting harder each year for Insurance I only found 1 company out of all the usual names to insure me last year before I turned 25! Now I'm with Glyn wood and there great I always speak to the same guy and they understand Landys Not bad price as is my only wagon and 15,000 Miles a year, 200tdi etc

I also found the inertia switch square black box with pull up red bit on the top, I figure up is the reset position it was down when I found it, simply lift up or do you have to do something else as well?

Ok I really think this is a dud ECU problem now, I have checked lots of wiring out on the weekend, Power is getting to the starter relay and fuel pump relay they all click on and off as mean't to. the negative to the ECU that is comes from the starter relay through a crazy earth based resistance thing and the automatic inhibitor switch seems fine and no change if you direct earth it. there are just soo many wires disappearing behind the dash it's a nightmare and the haynes wiring diagram is heavily simplified from whats really there. Any decent way to get the engine running without the ECU just so I can check engine is ok and gearbox works before breaking? by 'decent' I mean better than spraying easy start into the air intake!

Old hand - The engine does not crank I was just bypassing it to check starter,sparks etc. Could well be the Immobiliser failed I have been out checking the pins tonight But I can't find any listed as the immobilser to ECU wire!? The ECU has its 12v supply, ignition supply and 2 earths ok. It also has the transmission gear switch(34) working ok so when in Parked it earths-so thats ok. Sends current to fuel rail when ign on like it should But I'm not too sure which outputs to check now from the www.britishv8.org link Ally V8 - that wire sounds perfect, but on mine pin 34 is the trans gear switch so provides an earth when in park so will start, I wonder if the immobilser is in line with this function? If so would appear is alright? Where next folks?

Hi thanks for replies, I previously checked and just rechecked the connector to coil -ve is fine, also the +ve. Ok so sensors will not stop her starting that's good! Iv read that link before and checked a few resistances but couldn't trace the problem. I would be thinking Alram Spider box thing but this is a 1993 Disco. No alarm goes off or flashing light on dash so don't think its the immobilser but I only have 1 key so can't check isnt the Immobiliser. When trying to start theres no signal to the solenoid, When bypassing this the starter works fine but no fuel comes out of the injectors If an Injector was not dodgy but broken could the lack of signal etc cause this? break in a circuit sort of thing. Not sure where to look next :/

Hi all, Iv bought a Disco 1 3.5 v8 Efi that won't start, the previous owner said all was fine then one day-nothing. It's sparking and turning over right, fuel is getting to the fuel rail and you can hear the fuel pump ok, but the injectors don't let the fuel out! The ECU won't let the injectors pulse or even the starter solenoid wire to work. I have checked the resistance on the fuel temp sensor and block they both read a bit of resistance then lower to zero as get heated by a lighter. there is a 3 wire sensor on the downpipe I think is an oxygen sensor-If this is broke could it cause the engine not to start or would it just run rich/lean etc. I can't see any immobiliser and I just have the key. So can any broken/dodgy sensors not let it start? Thanks! Duncan

Well if the axle needs to be lifted for the diff casing then that's fine if it has to be anyway, and tbh I'm all for keeping mods with standard parts for ease of finding spares and as designed to work. I will have a good measure up in situ when I get my disco axles as with my front twisting mounts(on dumb irons) i think the front para is about level if not leaning forwards-Not ideal so might have to lift axle up more then look into adding a leaf Cheers for all advice! I'm also going to write to DVLA as I would like clarification on where they stand, also if parabolics count as a change to the original vehicle point wise, Rocky mountain themselves don't know!

How important are the Ackerman angles though? at the front is how series axles run, are they designed differently or something? My front tyres do wear down lots faster than the rear though haha

Snagger I'm probably being blind here but I can only see you fitting your already prepared axles all shiney are there pics of the cutting and welding and parts sourced from etc? Thanks for those pics ToyRoverlander that's just perfectly what I'm thinking right now, With any chance the disco axles I'm getting soon being a 92 i think will accept series diffs and the 90 single line callipers which i think the 92's should!? Is that guys saying he fitted longer front springs like you Just because he wanted to or to help with fitting the axles?

Hi all, I feel the time has come to finally get some disc brakes under my Lightweight, I'm not interested in the 11" conversion. I was contemplating fitting Toyota axles with leccy lockers for various reasons(13% higher gearing-just right, High up rear tracking rod to avoid the springs)but the price is just ridiculous for a pair. I will have my hands on a set of Disco axles off a breaker which I assume I can fit series Diffs too to keep the gearing the same(Don't want the 33% increase as I do tow trailers, and steep Devon hills) I assume this is fine as you can fit disco diffs to series axles, don't hear of the reverse haha Only real problem to overcome is the front Axle tracking rod wants to be exactly where the Leaf springs are! My Lightweight has extended Shackles which most people add to help twist the springs down, but at the front I have welded on Rocky Mountain twister schackles so flattens the spring back out so no help there. 3 approaches commonly known(Assuming the axles are fitted with the camber there designed to run) -move the axles away from the springs to achieve the clearance NO WAY! not lowering the front back down finally have her sitting level. -Make spacers for the track rod so theres 2 inch spacers between the track rod ball and the steering arm Sounds pretty dodgy to me, next please -Fit axles with the track rod at the front, do any disced axles like this exist(if santana can you get hold of them? Best Idea i'v heard is to get a LHD disc'ed axle so the O/S wheel has the front steering arm and fit the whole O/S assembly to a normal RHD axle so you have both wheels with steering arms, on the N/S steering arm you would then weld a cut off steering arm in the right place that would fit a track rod to that would go to the new O/S steering arm. The weld would have to be professionally done if even possible(Cast steel?) obviously the Ackerman angles would be off but would you really notice, it's how the series axles are right!? Any ideas much appreciated thanks

Interesting topic! I'm looking at my options for getting my Lightweight disc brakes, Can this approach be taken with 88" axles? I presume it must be possible as the Zeus/RM kits work in the same way, but I see you decided to start with a Salisbury was this just to start with a rock solid axle in the first place or do they fit the 90 stubs where others don't? Appreciate any info Duncan

I fitted the front twisting spring mounts just the other day after a lucky ebay find! My front axle barely moved before with rocky mountain springs and extended shackles-winch bumper and winch don't help with weight I think, now the front spring moves-amazing! well worth the money/time easy as to weld on too-simples. I'm looking for rear revolvers now as the extended shackles eat through bushes in under a year just offroading every now and then :/ So if anyone has some rears for sale-or dimensions

Yep very true I was working on the principle I melted two stalks in about 5 years of continuous use(my only car) running 100W bulbs so 55W should be ok, but Your right I should relay it all up and do it properly and get the most out of my bulbs as well. Cheers

Yep spots on relay, And I have got H4's but they are the same voltage at 55W And the loom can take it (when I got the LWT it had 100W rally bulbs through the original loom)

I keep having the same problem with indicators britpart specials i think, the high beam rivet must be a poor connection and soon becomes so bad it overheats and melts the plastic till doesn't touch so no high beam Last time I tried to solder it which didn't stick great but then the bad connection overheated and melted it to an ok contact! Even when it went i could still flash as thats a separate part. Switchwise i have a 3-way so middle is off, down connects the high beam on to spots relay, and up is a 12v to spots relay. With a bulb to show when on.

Ouch that must have been a big crash to get the axle back there! Hi John thanks for checking that I reckon LR aren't so forgiving as allowing 5 deploys! Iv got a possible source of an ECU getting back to me, good to know I should be able to get the rest of the car ready in the mean time- would be quite annoyed if I blew the new bags!