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Everything posted by MR-HIPPO

  1. I also have this leak, and stumbled across a couple of very good Youtube videos a while back showing the fix explained in this thread. Given that all the pics in this thread are no longer here, I though the videos may well be of use to any who is contemplating this fix. This video, although not exclusively about the intermediate shaft oil leak, does show the various parts, and briefly describes the process. (this should start playing about half way through at the relevant part) The second half of this video (again not exclusivity about this fix) shows the O-ring replacement in more detail. (this should also play from the relevant place) Another short follow up video showing the guide studs in use to replace the intermediate shaft O-ring.
  2. Thanks for the update, glad you are getting this sorted now. If it helps, the RWW Rear Wash Wipe switch (RWW) is on the small oval center facia panel on 200 TDI models. It is part 6 in THIS diagram
  3. Yes everything is connected back to the battery -ve. On older Land Rovers this was done by just connecting the earth wires from various circuits to metal body sections. The battery is always connected to the vehicle chassis / engine / gerabox, and the lights would earth by finding a path back to the battery -ve through the various joints between panels, and chassis mounting points. 30 years on, once a little corrosion has got in here and there, these "paths to earth" are not as great as they once were. Later Defenders (I think from around 300TDI) have earth return wires included in the loom to take everything back to the Bulkhead / Enging / Gerabox and on to the battery, thus eliminating the need to rely on a good electrical connection between the various body sections. If you replace ( as Western said) the big grey plug, and the bullet ends on the cables joining it, and also remove the wire that bolts to the top of the seatbox, and give the ring end, and the top of the seatbox directly around the hole, a good clean (using wet and dry paper / emery cloth or similar), then your problem should go away. However you are still relying on several other joints between body sections before the circuit actually gets back to the -ve side of the battery. A more bulletproof fix, as per Suffolk Defender's post above would be to take a new wire back from the replaced grey block, directly to the battery -ve. If you do this, you had just as well also run the new wire over to the same block on the rear lights on the other side of the vehicle, this should pretty much put an end to earthing issues with all of the rear end lighting on your truck. The connectors linked / pictured above, are the correct ones for the job, the picture shows a GREY 6 way, a Black 4 way & a Black 2 way. The numbers are simply the number of wires that can be plugged into each block. I hope that has made things a little clearer. EDIT: Steve b beat me to it.
  4. The older brake master cylinders had only two pipes coming out (later units have three), One for the front, and one for the rear. These two pipes may both go into another pipe block on the front face of the drivers foot well. (If fitted) this is the PDWA (Pressure Differential Warning Actuator) It contains a shuttle valve, that shuts off fluid to either of the circuits in the event of a pressure loss. There is a switch on the unit that would illuminate a dash warning light if the shuttle valve operates, thus closing leaking a circuit.
  5. On the vehicle I have here 1994 200tdi 110 van. My plug has slightly different wire colours to yours. White / Yellow Purple / Orange Green White Black. For of the wires are not connected on this vehicle. The only one of these wires that is actually connected to anything, is the green wire, this is connected to a green wire on a male bullet that is one of two wires in loom PRC2876. This (PRC2876) is a two wire harness that runs a green wire from the 5 way plug, along the gearbox to the reverse light switch (back face of gearbox above transfer box) and returns from the reverse switch as a Green / Brown wire that then plugs into a corresponding Green/ Brown in the chassis loom to feed the reversing lights. Again I have a slight difference in wire colours here. Brown / white White White / Black Green. This is connected to another 4 way plug with matching wire colours. The White / Black from this plug is a short wire that plugs into the White / Black in the chassis loom (I think this is the wire from fuse 17 to the heated Rear window) The other three wires enter another harness that passes through one of the grommets in the bulkhead in front of the dash clocks. There are three more wires exiting from this harness on the engine side of the bulkhead grommet, Brown / Light Green, Red / Light Green, Green, these wires then connect to a 3 way plug with matching wires on the chassis loom. I think these are the wire to the Rear wash / Wipe), so this may well be an auxiliary harness to the RWW switch. Hope this Helps. What vehicle do you have?
  6. If you want to keep it fairly original, I bought some of these the last time I played with the wiring behind the rear lights.
  7. A couple of years back, I had the same problem when fitting a 200TDI to my 1989 CSW. After a several phone calls I managed to find someone at JLR who understood the problem with DVLA & was willing to help. A couple of emails and a few pictures of the engine later, and I had a letter with all the required details direct from JLR. Try: Kerry Viola kviola@jaguarlandrover.com Case Manager Tel: 01926 691612 Jaguar Land Rover, Abbey Road, Whitley, CV3 4LF
  8. I worked down from the top the last time I put mine in. Metal vent flap panel first, then dash top. Then the lower dash. There should not really be anything falling out from the lower dash apart from the "Bezel" that sits around the heater hole. part 24 in this diagram This simply pushes into the inside of the hole to the heater unit, I think it is there to give the outer seal on the heater bos a good seal. I had to remove my lower dash after fitting and add some self adhesive closed cell foam tape to the hole in the bulkhead behind the bezel, and to the back of the lower dash where the bezel sits to get the heater to seal properly. While the dash is out, it may pay to check the condition of the seals on the vent flaps in the lower dash, you may well find that the original foam seals have disintegrated as was the case on mine. If so you can unscrew the upper tray from the lower dash to access the innards, I simply removed the two flaps, and riveted a piece of neoprene to each one before refitting, this has greatly improved the heaters ability to demist the screen when the lower flaps are closed (and now properly sealed).
  9. @T0M Firstly welcome to the forums, you are in the right place to get this sorted. The diagram that you have shared looks to be the full colour version of the diagrams posted by PaulMC earlier in this topic. Those diagrams have a legend showing warning light functions, and wire colours, so by cross referencing with what you already have it should make a bit more sense. If you are still stuck, I still have a 200TDI vehicle sat here for reference, and I am sure we can get you new looms all plugged in correctly. Please feel free to post any farther questions here. Hope this helps, and apologies for the late reply, Hippo.
  10. Just dropping this here as I thought it may be of interest. https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2019/06/11/the-last-overland-project-aims-to-return-an-oxford-cambridge-land-rover-from-singapore-to-london/ Apologies if this has come up before.
  11. I was also going to enquire about who, and how much.
  12. Here you go. Land Rover 90/110 speedo drive gears Colour: blue/20 teeth - Part number: FRC3310 - Tyres: 7.50/16 or 235/85/16 Colour: green/21 teeth - Part number: FRC3311 Colour: yellow/22 teeth - Part number: FRC3312 - Tyres: 205/16 tyres Colour: red/24 teeth - Part number: FRC3313 Taken from THIS page. Transfer box ratio does not affect this, as the speedo drive is driven from the output side of the box.
  13. I assume that it's these guys. https://www.facebook.com/BustleAbout
  14. I used woolies trim when I sorted my sliding rear side windows. https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/category/341/single-track
  15. Firstly welcome to the forums. From the description, I was fully expecting your story to end with, "when I drained the diff, a few crown wheel teeth fell out." Good luck, I hope you have not done too much damage.
  16. May well be talking out of my arse here but: Stub axle oil seal fitted back to front? Perhaps this would allow lubricant to escape from the swivel housing into the hub, but not return, thus creating excess pressure in the hub when things heat up?
  17. Update. Being a cheapskate I ordered from VGC thevehicleglasscompany The screen arrived the next day, and the total cost delivered was £126. The screen was well packaged, and suffered no damage in transit. That said, the courier did not seem greatly impressed when I insisted on opening the package and inspecting the contents before accepting it. I did not measure the thickness of the glass, but when placed next to my old screen the new one was noticeably thicker. My old screen measured around 5.4mm thick. This screen has now been fitted using a new Bearmach rubber (11.50 from ebay). This has been further waterproofed by injecting a butyl sealant into the joint between the rubber and the glass, in an attempt to prolong the life of the heating elements. The heating elements seem to work as intended, and the whole installation appears to be waterproof. In conclusion: I am very happy with the screen / service from VGC and would not hesitate to recommend them, I would also happily buy another screen from them if the need arises.
  18. 9 seems to be the sweet spot on my (cheap) auto helmet as well. My welding quickly deteriorates if the knob on my mask accidentally gets turned above 9.
  19. Good pics, that makes things a lot clearer. The gap looks quite tight, is there going to be enough clearance to insert the block?
  20. Don't you just hate that. Nice weld, wrong place. I have been sticking stuff together for upwards of 30 years, and that still happens to me. I find adding lots of light on the workpiece helps (especially when working underneath), you can get some pretty decent LED floodlights from the likes of Screwfix for around a tenner. I have a couple of 10w LEDs that I use here and they help lots. Great work getting your outriggers done by the way.
  21. I do not see a crack. (that said, I am as blind as a bat at times.) Is it the daylight between the two horizontal white panel edges at the bottom of the pic, that you are referring to? If yes, then (on mine at least) the lip / edge below the daylight is the edge of a separate angle section, it runs from just in front of the B-pillar, and only seems to be there to hold the top edge of the door rubber.
  22. Nice bit of kit that, and certainly a bargain at £50. i have an old upright version of that, and it has served me well for quite some time. As in the pipe just above the data plate? That is a pipe to relieve pressure from above the piston. The compressor is equipped with a starting unloader which relieves cylinder pressure when the compressor stops, permitting it to start against a light load. This increases the life of the drive motor and belts and also reduces the possibility of tripping the motor overload relay.The unloader incorporates a pilot valve which is actuated centrifugally by unloader weights attached to the end of the crankshaft
  23. I resemble that remark! Very shiny, have you any pics of them in situ?
  24. Go on then, I like a bit of LandRover porn as much as the next guy.
  25. Slow? My 4236 turbo conversion would almost do 60MPH (4 speed range rover box + overdrive) Pulled like a train though, did not really need the gears.
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