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Everything posted by MR-HIPPO

  1. Firstly welcome to the forums. From the description, I was fully expecting your story to end with, "when I drained the diff, a few crown wheel teeth fell out." Good luck, I hope you have not done too much damage.
  2. May well be talking out of my arse here but: Stub axle oil seal fitted back to front? Perhaps this would allow lubricant to escape from the swivel housing into the hub, but not return, thus creating excess pressure in the hub when things heat up?
  3. Update. Being a cheapskate I ordered from VGC thevehicleglasscompany The screen arrived the next day, and the total cost delivered was £126. The screen was well packaged, and suffered no damage in transit. That said, the courier did not seem greatly impressed when I insisted on opening the package and inspecting the contents before accepting it. I did not measure the thickness of the glass, but when placed next to my old screen the new one was noticeably thicker. My old screen measured around 5.4mm thick. This screen has now been fitted using a new Bearmach rubber (11.50 from ebay). This has been further waterproofed by injecting a butyl sealant into the joint between the rubber and the glass, in an attempt to prolong the life of the heating elements. The heating elements seem to work as intended, and the whole installation appears to be waterproof. In conclusion: I am very happy with the screen / service from VGC and would not hesitate to recommend them, I would also happily buy another screen from them if the need arises.
  4. 9 seems to be the sweet spot on my (cheap) auto helmet as well. My welding quickly deteriorates if the knob on my mask accidentally gets turned above 9.
  5. Good pics, that makes things a lot clearer. The gap looks quite tight, is there going to be enough clearance to insert the block?
  6. Don't you just hate that. Nice weld, wrong place. I have been sticking stuff together for upwards of 30 years, and that still happens to me. I find adding lots of light on the workpiece helps (especially when working underneath), you can get some pretty decent LED floodlights from the likes of Screwfix for around a tenner. I have a couple of 10w LEDs that I use here and they help lots. Great work getting your outriggers done by the way.
  7. I do not see a crack. (that said, I am as blind as a bat at times.) Is it the daylight between the two horizontal white panel edges at the bottom of the pic, that you are referring to? If yes, then (on mine at least) the lip / edge below the daylight is the edge of a separate angle section, it runs from just in front of the B-pillar, and only seems to be there to hold the top edge of the door rubber.
  8. Nice bit of kit that, and certainly a bargain at £50. i have an old upright version of that, and it has served me well for quite some time. As in the pipe just above the data plate? That is a pipe to relieve pressure from above the piston. The compressor is equipped with a starting unloader which relieves cylinder pressure when the compressor stops, permitting it to start against a light load. This increases the life of the drive motor and belts and also reduces the possibility of tripping the motor overload relay.The unloader incorporates a pilot valve which is actuated centrifugally by unloader weights attached to the end of the crankshaft
  9. I resemble that remark! Very shiny, have you any pics of them in situ?
  10. Go on then, I like a bit of LandRover porn as much as the next guy.
  11. Slow? My 4236 turbo conversion would almost do 60MPH (4 speed range rover box + overdrive) Pulled like a train though, did not really need the gears.
  12. I have a Leatherman Rebar that I have owned for several years. It seems solid enough, and is still in excellent condition. If I had to pick fault with it, my only gripe would be that the handles are "inside out" while using the pliers, so can dig into your hand somewhat when squeezing hard.
  13. From the part number on that site (7012AGNH) that would appear to be a Pilkington screen, can you confirm that this is the case? Looks like the price delivered is £219.58
  14. Certainly not something you see every day.
  15. Flaring the ends in situ is a doddle with one of these.
  16. Having done a little more research: heatedwindsceen.com Price delivered is a few pence shy of £200. I do not yet know who makes the glass. Masai & LR Parts are both coming in cheaper than this at around £175 delivered. thevehicleglasscompany.co.uk Price delivered £126. The screen is produced by Nordglass. So the obvious question is, are Nordglass screens any good?
  17. It has bee about 20 years since I replaced one of these, but If my memory serves me correctly: I think that the feet slip inside the bottom of the door pillar, and are spot welded in place. You would need to locate and drill out the spot welds in order to pull the old foot down out of the pillar. Glad to hear you are making progress at last.
  18. I need to replace my windscreen, and am looking at upgrading to a heated version. After much searching on here, heatedwindsceen.com seems to come up quite a lot, but I can't seem t find any posts from anyone who has actually bought a screen from them. I also came across a link that western posted to these guys thevehicleglasscompany.co.uk but there is very limited information in the listing, and at £85 +VAT it seems too good to be true. If anyone has bought from, and able to give any feedback on the heated Defender screen from either of these suppliers, it would be greatly appreciated. Alternatively, are there any other suppliers of decently priced (<£150) heated screens out there that anyone has actually had experience of using? Many thanks, Hippo.
  19. A few weeks back, an old but unused Exmoor trim seat base foam came my way, so I fitted this into the the base of my 1989 drivers seat, reusing the original cover. What a difference!! I was absolutely blown away by the difference that this made. My sitting position seems to have gone up by around 2 inches, the seat back now correctly sits against my back, and the thing is so much more comfortable to drive, it is literally like driving a different vehicle. If you have an old defender, a new seat base foam is quite possibly the best £30 ish you could spend. Fully re-trimming my front seats in now most certainly on my radar.
  20. Have you tried the tests that I outlined above? They will test/eliminate the rest of the wiring outside of the speedo head. If those tests do not find the problem, then with pink plug (c1061) unplugged from theback of the speedo,, and the tank sender plugged in, connect a wire between pin 3 Green/Black, and pin 7 Light green/Black on pink plug (c1061) this will complete the fuel sender circuit while bypassing the speedo head circuitry as per westerns suggestion above. Depending on what your fuel gauge now reads (ignition on), this will prove / disprove that the speedo is the problem.
  21. Thank you. Reckon I could find space in my tool box for a few of those.
  22. Thanks for the heads up. You can just Copy links and paste them directly into your post. The forum will do the rest. (hint, you can then delete the link text, and type what you like in it's place.) Or, you can use the little paper clip looking link button in the menu bar thingy just above the reply you are posting) Either way you may well have to hit ENTER after your link to return to typing normal text.
  23. Very interesting, "Skin Pins." not seen those before. Am I correct in assuming that you can push the threaded pin into place through the work piece into the rear section, tighten with the nut, then remove by squeezing the rear section to release the pin?
  24. Also, are they all 3/8" Drive? They certainly seem to get good reviews, no one seems to mention pulling broken bolts with them though. (at least not in the few pages I read through)
  25. Also, are they all 3/8" Drive? They certainly seem to get good reviews, no one seems to mention pulling broken bolts with them though. (at least not in the few pages I read through)
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