MR-HIPPO

So we are looking at the chassis loom. As far as I can determine from the electrical reference library, I believe that the orange plug is C0390, and the other two plugs are C0391 & C0392, see picture below. Green / Black, and Slate / Black to the top of the tank (as per your reply), these go to the sender for the fuel gauge. The two fat ones, Purple permanent live ACC, and White / Purple power to fuel pump. The Library I am looking at is for a 2002 model year, it looks like C3092 has changed colour.

Just been looking at a TD5 electrical library, Is that the chassis loom? The small wires, are they Green / Black, & Slate / Black? Is there a 9 pin plug on the end of the loom next to those cut wires?

My early defender manual is showing the following. The first column is NM, the second is lb ft

Thank you for the replies. I really should spend more time here. I have not changed the switch, I fitted the pressure gauge, and assumed that the rapid drop to around 10 PSI was proof that I had a low pressure problem. Will do an Oil and Filter change, the current filter is a genuine LR part, and the oil is 10w 40 semisynthetic.

Thanks Western. As per my first post in this topic, I have seen my oil light flicker at idle a few times after decent runs in hot weather, although I have yet to witness this since installing the Pressure gauge. It kind of sucks getting stuck in traffic after a decent run, then having to keep the revs up to quell the oil light until the traffic clears. With the current weather, it only takes a four or five miles for the Oil pressure to drop to around the 10 / 12 psi mark at idle.

!0 psi is hot idle. Cold is more like 40. Engine was purchased back in 2018. It was allegedly from a 88k ish vehicle. There was a green new owner slip with the engine, that was allegedly from the vehicle that the engine came from, the DVLA MOT history confirmed the mileage It is certainly one of the earlier 11Ls & and the FIP has been messed about with prior to my ownership. I have no reason to think that the engine has previously been rebuilt. But I have had to replace the head gasket, so I expect that this engine has more miles and has had a much harder life than I was led to believe. Was quite gutted to read that you need to separate the gearbox to remove the ladder frame on these, so popping a couple of bearing caps off and having a look inside is not a quick job.

OK, update on this. Mostly to answer my original question. For ERR532, I used RTC6167 (Thanks Retroanaconda for the heads-up). I measured the new O ring RTC6167 as best I could with my Lidl digital Vernier. My best estimate for the physical size of the O ring is 25.3 mm OD with a thickness of 3 mm. I was fitting this to rule it out as the source of low oil pressure, I fitted a capillary gauge last week, and it confirmed that with the engine up to temperature I have around 10 PSI at tickover. The old O ring inside the skew gear, sealing it to the vacuum pump was indeed very brittle and flat, however replacing it has made no difference to my oil pressure reading. Sadly, when removing the Vacuum pump, it popped out with the skew gear firmly attached, so I lost all reference as to how the skew gear & camshaft gear were originally meshed. There are lots of warnings about the skew gear / camshaft drive being a matched set once they have been used together, and apparently it is important to ensure that they mesh together in the same place. I really hope that this does not come back to bite me on the arse at a later date. So there it is, My 11L 200TDI engine is now suffering from a case of low oil pressure. Compounded with a dose of Skew gear / camshaft gear mesh misalignment. Not quite sure where to go from here.

I made mine. I ordered THIS inline brake pipe connector from eBay. The remote bleed is simply a length of brake line with a male fitting at each end, this runs from the bleed port on the clutch slave, turns back on itself 180 degrees, and runs upwards along the back of the bell housing / gearbox towards the gear stick. The top (gearstick end) of the remote pipe screws into the female fitting. The bleed nipple screws into the other side of the female fitting. The long hollow female fitting also has a small plate welded to it in the middle at 90 degrees, this has an 8 mm hole drilled in the other end and is attached to one of the bolts on top of the remote housing

Mine was a complete dick to bleed after fitting the later type pedal, I ended up pumping the pedal up and down by hand to get pressure, then while holding pressure on the pedal, opening the bleed valve to purge the air. It took several cycles to get any kind of return from the pedal The bleed valve on mine is on an extension pipe, and sits attached to a bracket on top of the gear selector housing, pointing upwards. Bleeding can be done manually from the driver's seat. The nipple is accessed by simply removing the rubber gear stick gaiter in the cab. That first bleed with the new pedal set up seemed a lot harder than it should have been, for sure.

!/4 chassis is probably a little bit of an exaggeration, the new section was the rear cross member and chassis rails up to the front of the fuel tank cross member, it finished just shy of the rear spring seats. I am not sure who made the new section, but it was constructed of 3 mm steel, had been galvanised and all threaded holes had been tapped ready to use. The old section was cut off, leaving around 40 mm protruding beyond the front of the fuel tank cross member. The new section needed to be trimmed a little on the nearside, as there was a suspension linkage attached where the two sections should overlap. There was also a bracket to hold the fuel filter situated right on the join on the offside rail, this had to be removed, and re welded after the new section had been fitted. If I remember correctly, the new section was test fitted six times before I was happy with it, and then welded on the seventh fit. I drilled lots of holes into all the sections of new chassis that overlapped the old, and these were plug welded for good measure. This was for a friend, and I expected the job to be done over 3 days, however I ended up crawling around on the floor under this for the best part of a week! (you know what they say, "a friend in need is a pain in the arse" and all that)

Thank you for the replies. I feel like I learn something every time I come here. So for ERR532 use RTC 6167 (That should be on the LRW website) And it looks like Britcars dimensions should probably be taken with a pinch of salt as they show 25x1.4mm for ERR532 and 70x1.5mm for RTC6167.

Obscure question I know, but would anyone here happen to know the physical dimensions of the O Ring that seals the Vacuum pump to the oil pump Skew gear. (200 TDI) Part number ERR532. This is the same part that is referenced in this post. Reason for asking. I have seen my oil light flicker at idle a few times after decent runs in warm weather and would like to rule this O ring out before I investigate further. ERR532 is showing as discontinued on several sites, and I was hoping I could just purchase the correct sized O ring to replace mine. I also plan on fitting an oil pressure gauge early next week to see what is actually going on. Has anyone here ever found this part to actually be the cause of low hot oil pressure? Thanks as always, Hippo.

Update. Having replaced the chassis section in question, I can partially answer my original question, the rare body mounting rubbers are NOT the same as the Disco 1 part ANR1504 is a completely different shape to the Disco 2 part. The Disco 2 rubbers are a single conical design that need pressing through the mounting holes in the chassis. I was able to re-use the original rubbers.

I will be replacing a rear quarter chassis on a friends Disco 2 shortly; I Would like to fit new rear body mounting rubbers at the same time, these are the rear most mounts that sit outboard of the main chassis rails just forward of the rear Cross member. Are these the same as the disco 1 part ANR1504 or is this a different part. Many thanks, Hippo.

I also have this leak, and stumbled across a couple of very good Youtube videos a while back showing the fix explained in this thread. Given that all the pics in this thread are no longer here, I though the videos may well be of use to any who is contemplating this fix. This video, although not exclusively about the intermediate shaft oil leak, does show the various parts, and briefly describes the process. (this should start playing about half way through at the relevant part) The second half of this video (again not exclusivity about this fix) shows the O-ring replacement in more detail. (this should also play from the relevant place) Another short follow up video showing the guide studs in use to replace the intermediate shaft O-ring.

Thanks for the update, glad you are getting this sorted now. If it helps, the RWW Rear Wash Wipe switch (RWW) is on the small oval center facia panel on 200 TDI models. It is part 6 in THIS diagram

Yes everything is connected back to the battery -ve. On older Land Rovers this was done by just connecting the earth wires from various circuits to metal body sections. The battery is always connected to the vehicle chassis / engine / gerabox, and the lights would earth by finding a path back to the battery -ve through the various joints between panels, and chassis mounting points. 30 years on, once a little corrosion has got in here and there, these "paths to earth" are not as great as they once were. Later Defenders (I think from around 300TDI) have earth return wires included in the loom to take everything back to the Bulkhead / Enging / Gerabox and on to the battery, thus eliminating the need to rely on a good electrical connection between the various body sections. If you replace ( as Western said) the big grey plug, and the bullet ends on the cables joining it, and also remove the wire that bolts to the top of the seatbox, and give the ring end, and the top of the seatbox directly around the hole, a good clean (using wet and dry paper / emery cloth or similar), then your problem should go away. However you are still relying on several other joints between body sections before the circuit actually gets back to the -ve side of the battery. A more bulletproof fix, as per Suffolk Defender's post above would be to take a new wire back from the replaced grey block, directly to the battery -ve. If you do this, you had just as well also run the new wire over to the same block on the rear lights on the other side of the vehicle, this should pretty much put an end to earthing issues with all of the rear end lighting on your truck. The connectors linked / pictured above, are the correct ones for the job, the picture shows a GREY 6 way, a Black 4 way & a Black 2 way. The numbers are simply the number of wires that can be plugged into each block. I hope that has made things a little clearer. EDIT: Steve b beat me to it.

The older brake master cylinders had only two pipes coming out (later units have three), One for the front, and one for the rear. These two pipes may both go into another pipe block on the front face of the drivers foot well. (If fitted) this is the PDWA (Pressure Differential Warning Actuator) It contains a shuttle valve, that shuts off fluid to either of the circuits in the event of a pressure loss. There is a switch on the unit that would illuminate a dash warning light if the shuttle valve operates, thus closing leaking a circuit.

On the vehicle I have here 1994 200tdi 110 van. My plug has slightly different wire colours to yours. White / Yellow Purple / Orange Green White Black. For of the wires are not connected on this vehicle. The only one of these wires that is actually connected to anything, is the green wire, this is connected to a green wire on a male bullet that is one of two wires in loom PRC2876. This (PRC2876) is a two wire harness that runs a green wire from the 5 way plug, along the gearbox to the reverse light switch (back face of gearbox above transfer box) and returns from the reverse switch as a Green / Brown wire that then plugs into a corresponding Green/ Brown in the chassis loom to feed the reversing lights. Again I have a slight difference in wire colours here. Brown / white White White / Black Green. This is connected to another 4 way plug with matching wire colours. The White / Black from this plug is a short wire that plugs into the White / Black in the chassis loom (I think this is the wire from fuse 17 to the heated Rear window) The other three wires enter another harness that passes through one of the grommets in the bulkhead in front of the dash clocks. There are three more wires exiting from this harness on the engine side of the bulkhead grommet, Brown / Light Green, Red / Light Green, Green, these wires then connect to a 3 way plug with matching wires on the chassis loom. I think these are the wire to the Rear wash / Wipe), so this may well be an auxiliary harness to the RWW switch. Hope this Helps. What vehicle do you have?

If you want to keep it fairly original, I bought some of these the last time I played with the wiring behind the rear lights.

A couple of years back, I had the same problem when fitting a 200TDI to my 1989 CSW. After a several phone calls I managed to find someone at JLR who understood the problem with DVLA & was willing to help. A couple of emails and a few pictures of the engine later, and I had a letter with all the required details direct from JLR. Try: Kerry Viola kviola@jaguarlandrover.com Case Manager Tel: 01926 691612 Jaguar Land Rover, Abbey Road, Whitley, CV3 4LF

I worked down from the top the last time I put mine in. Metal vent flap panel first, then dash top. Then the lower dash. There should not really be anything falling out from the lower dash apart from the "Bezel" that sits around the heater hole. part 24 in this diagram This simply pushes into the inside of the hole to the heater unit, I think it is there to give the outer seal on the heater bos a good seal. I had to remove my lower dash after fitting and add some self adhesive closed cell foam tape to the hole in the bulkhead behind the bezel, and to the back of the lower dash where the bezel sits to get the heater to seal properly. While the dash is out, it may pay to check the condition of the seals on the vent flaps in the lower dash, you may well find that the original foam seals have disintegrated as was the case on mine. If so you can unscrew the upper tray from the lower dash to access the innards, I simply removed the two flaps, and riveted a piece of neoprene to each one before refitting, this has greatly improved the heaters ability to demist the screen when the lower flaps are closed (and now properly sealed).

@T0M Firstly welcome to the forums, you are in the right place to get this sorted. The diagram that you have shared looks to be the full colour version of the diagrams posted by PaulMC earlier in this topic. Those diagrams have a legend showing warning light functions, and wire colours, so by cross referencing with what you already have it should make a bit more sense. If you are still stuck, I still have a 200TDI vehicle sat here for reference, and I am sure we can get you new looms all plugged in correctly. Please feel free to post any farther questions here. Hope this helps, and apologies for the late reply, Hippo.

Just dropping this here as I thought it may be of interest. https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2019/06/11/the-last-overland-project-aims-to-return-an-oxford-cambridge-land-rover-from-singapore-to-london/ Apologies if this has come up before.

I was also going to enquire about who, and how much.