MR-HIPPO

Very interesting, "Skin Pins." not seen those before. Am I correct in assuming that you can push the threaded pin into place through the work piece into the rear section, tighten with the nut, then remove by squeezing the rear section to release the pin?

Also, are they all 3/8" Drive? They certainly seem to get good reviews, no one seems to mention pulling broken bolts with them though. (at least not in the few pages I read through)

Also, are they all 3/8" Drive? They certainly seem to get good reviews, no one seems to mention pulling broken bolts with them though. (at least not in the few pages I read through)

You learn something every day 😉 Not sure why, but in the first link, the item description states UNBRANDED in the product details?

Apparently mine is a Draper. Just like this one HERE is a used one, much better value. I have had mine for many years, and it has been very well abused. It does have limitations, obviously you need enough stud left protruding to get a purchase on. You also need enough space around the stud to be able to turn the tool. EDIT: HERE it is in the Draper catalogue.

I have one of these and it generally gets the job done. I am local to you, have some free time, and am happy to come over and give it a go.

Go for it. Being able to stick bits of metal together (even crudely) is a real game changer. You will be amazed how many uses you can find for a mig welder, it will change the way you look at a / approach a multitude of problems. I wager it will not be long before you wonder how on earth you managed without one.

Lets start from there then. The two pink plugs are c1060 & c1061. (Shown in Library and circuit diagrams) The Fuel Gauge has 3 wires, power earth & the wire to the sender. unplugging c1061 disconnects the wire to the sender. (Gauge drops to empty) this shows us that the other two wires on the gauge are correctly wired, (power and earth). It also proves that the short / problem is not in the short light green/black wire, as this is still plugged to the gauge, but disconnected from the speedo head. Every thing here seems to be working correctly, and pulling this plug will always cause the fuel gauge to read zero. You should do the 1st test from my above post, that will help to narrow things down. Also with pink plug c1061 unplugged, ( & tank sender disconnected) check the green/black there (pin-3) to see if that has continuity to earth as well, that will narrow thing down a little farther. At this point my money is on the Green/black.

Open the wiring diagram linked above. Click Instrumentation in the menu pane, you can see the fuel gauge wiring at the top of the first page that opens. I suspect that you have managed to earth the Green/Black that should run to the sender unit. Have you altered the wires in the short TD5 instrument loom? IF NO: With the fuel tank sender unplugged. Disconnect the dash loom plug from the main harness plug (c1040) test and see it the green/Black from pin 5 of (c1040) main loom side of the plug, has continuity to earth, If it does this is your problem. IF YES: On the instruments diagram, there is a short Light Green/Black that runs from one of the pink plugs on the back of the speedo (c1061 pin-7) to the plug on the back of the fuel gauge (c1054 pin-2). I think managing to earth this would also give you a "full tank" There is also a White/Orange that runs from the same pink speedo plug (c1061 pin-1) to one of the grey warning light panel plugs (co233 pin-3) if this is earthed I think it would also cause the problem. It is hard to give an accurate diagnosis without knowing what has been altered on your looms. Note: I am not an auto electrician, I am just doing my best to help with the information that I have available to me. The only knowledge I have of TD5 vehicle wiring is from looking at the Wiring diagram & reference library. I did fit a TD5 binnacle into my 200TDI, so I guess that counts for something. 😀

Thought that was a bit of a long shot. What was the problem?

Just a thought, I think in a previous post somewhere in another topic, I pointed out that white/Green could be used as a switched live, and you said that you thought it was for the oil light, You have not connected the white/Green from the main loom to Engine loom plug (c0448) to your oil light switch at the engine have you? This would certainly blow fuse 12 when you turned the ignition on?

From that fuse diagram, Fuse 12 is either: ECM: If you loom came from a TD5 vehicle. Speed Transducer: If your ;loom came from a 300TDI vehicle. In both cases the wire is White/Green (this would be a switched live.) TD5 loom: This wire runs to the pin 33 in the large black plug for the ECM beneath the passenger seat (c0658 in the electrical library) 300TDI loom, this wire would run to pin 13 in the Grey Main loom to Engine loo plug. on the front of the bulkhead (c0448) in the electrical library) I really think that you are now at a point where you will need to reference the electrical library (that you got from the above link), and the electrical circuit diagrams The two documents are meant to be used along side each other, these have been the source of all of the information that I have given you so far. You are now the only person that knows what wire you have cut / joined /connected to what / where in order to get the TD5? main loom connected to your Vehicle/ Engine / Gearbox. The documents can seem a little confusing at first, but are not that complicated once you understand how they work, all of the various plugs / connectors are numbered on the circuit diagrams, and these numbers can be searched for in both documents.

And another link to the Electrical reference library The info you require is in section 2.3 & 2.4 (Pages 16 to 21)

There is a locking tab / latch that needs to be pried in with a jewellers screwdriver or similar. looking at the back of the plug as you are holding it in the picture, the tab will be to the left of the wires. Or If you imagine the connector un-crimped so the the cable retaining collar is a U shape (the part of the terminal closest to the camera) Then the tab would be on the same side of the terminal as the bottom of the U.

Thanks for the update. Glad you got it sorted.

Big Grey plug to engine loom, Pin 10. Plug pin out on page 252 HERE Alternatively you can use CTRL/F and search the document for c0448 (that is the number of the connector)

I really like what you have done there. I have mused on the feasibility of using an "original unmodified"" Disco / RRC chassis as a 100 inch defender base, it is good to see that is is entirely possible. I reckon this will not be the last of it's kind. Does anyone know if the rear overhang is the same on regular 110 vs HCPU tubs?

I love what you have done there. I have mused on the feasibility of using an "original unmodified"" Disco / RRC chassis as a 100 inch defender base, it is good to see that is is entirely possible. Reckon this will not be the last of it's kind.

@Mudmonkey I like that a lot. I would be curios to see how you picked up the body mounting points.

@western Typing at the same time again. LOL. I was replying to Green TDI.

Are you using a TD5 Clock binnacle and wiring harness, plugged into the TD5 main loom? If so the signal to the speedometer from the speed transducer should be on the Black/Red wire, as per retroanaconada's guide above. White/Green is the live feed to the, Coolant temperature gauge, the fuel gauge, the speedometer & a various warning lights on the dash panel. (on a TD5)

I am now as confused as you are.

As above, a pressure gauge would show what is actually happening. To me, the fact that the oil light is only coming on while the engine is idling, after it has warmed up, does not bode well.

Without seeing what you have done, is is hard to know exactly what you have. To clarify, I was suggesting the White/Green as a switched live power source for the speed transducer. Have you seen Retroanaconda's speedo wiring diagram? http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/gauges_diagram.pdf It may help confirm that you have your wiring in the correct places. It was linked to in this guide to install a TD5 dash head into a TDI vehicle. http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2009/10/installing-defender-td5-gauges-into-a-200tdi300tdi/

Is it both wheels, or just one? Perhaps the calliper that was not used, or connected (open to atmosphere ?) for a "while" has seized?