MR-HIPPO

So the Britpart pipe outlasted two back boxes, shocking. It seems Britpart's poor quality control may not perfect. Perhaps, once in a while, a decent part may slip through.

I thought massages were meant to be relaxing. Jig saws most certainly are not.

Engine side you are very restricted on a 200TDI. Power to the fuel cut solenoid is the only electrical connection that is required to keep the engine running once it has started. Toying with the idea of physically interrupting the fuel supply from the tank on mine. EDIT: Ninjad by Western.

I hope that is for real. Perhaps we will all need to do that in 10 years or so.

Is it the glow plug relay you need? If so THIS is the one that is fitted to the 200TDI that I have here.

Does it have a ring connection on the other end? If so I would assume that it connects to the main live terminal on the starter motor (effectively straight to battery) There are a a few wires connected there on the vehicle that I have here.

OK, after some "testing" this end. 1: Large Brown permanent live (not fused) to power the glow plugs. 2: large Yellow (should be yellow/black?) connects to glow plugs 3: White. fused live (should be live when ignition lights are on) 4: white/red crank engine circuit the thin wire is ignition switch side of the starter relay. (I assume this shuts the timer off if you crank the engine?) 5: Thin yellow/black from to the dash warning light. (earthing this illuminates the warning light)

Should be fine, it purely serves as a warning lamp test when you crank the engine. May be a handy way to carry a spare / redundant relay though?

There is a brake / transmission oil temp, warning light test relay in the picture in This post, (it is the relay on the left) Wire colours are: 30 black 85 black 86 red/white 87 slate/red 87a black The relay wiring & operation are discussed in the following few posts. @western I guess this is the relay you are referring to.

From left to right: (I think) 1: Intermittent wiper relay. 2: --- 3: Headlamp relay 4: Starter relay 5: Flasher relay What colour wires do you have going into number 2? (I can't really tell from that image)

I am curious to see what you fish out of there.

Good info, I just looked them up, I am sure there will be a few here that are glad to know you can still buy direct from Marsland. Here is the link for KD LandRover: https://kd-lr.com/

Welcome to the forums. So you have charged the battery and replaced the alternator? I assume that you are reading the voltage across the battery terminals? Is your battery still holding 12.8v? I am no expert, but if it were mine I would check that the main battery cables are fully connected and tight. (at both ends) Check that there is a good earth from the battery to the gearbox / chassis. Check the live terminal on the starter motor to make sure that everything is still properly connected and done up tight. (the main battery +, and live feed from the alternator connect here)

@Retroanaconda did a very helpful write up on fitting a TD5 dash to TDI engined vehicles. (many thanks for that) THIS will tell you everything you need to know. (including how to get the TD5 temp gauge to read the correctly when connected to a TDI engine.) Note the link to a wiring diagram half way down. I also have previously given you links to the TD5 wiring diagram and reference library. I doubt many here NEED them every day, but when rewiring a vehicle, they are invaluable. I am certainly no auto electrician, but was able to replace the loom and wire a TD5 dash into my vehicle using the diagrams, (and Retro's fine guide.)

Thanks Western. So the early ones use M6 x25mm (these are the only ones I have come across) And the later ones use No14 x 25mm self tapping screws, and a spire nut. Anyone know what the M6 bolts screw into on the early ones? I guess the changeover was around the same time as the 200TDI?

I made a new gasket for mine when I did my roof. I used some self adhesive closed cell foam (12mm wide & 3mm thick IIRC.) It seems to have worked well so far. The roofs that I have fitted have had threads behind the hole, but the threads move around a little, so I guess it must be a nut plate. (M6) Not sure how the nut plates are fitted, but I assume that they feed in from the front edge?

Re engine hoist lacking reach. On my hoist, the lifting hook is on a few links of chain that hangs from a bolt. The bolt passes through the lifting arm a little way in from the end, the chain then drops vertically through a slot in the bottom the arm. I managed to get a little more reach by feeding the chain into the end of the lifting arm, and then attaching the chain to the bolt. The chain now comes forward off of the bolt, and hangs out of the very end of the lifting arm. This does not give me loads more reach, but prior to doing this, I lacked the reach to replace Defender engines without first removing the front bumper. Now I can change engines with the bumper still attached to the vehicle.

No reason you can't cut the existing wire and put a male spade on the end, that way it will plug into the new loom without any butchering.

Yes it is the "Difflock is engaged" light. there is only one. Stubby R380 mounts the same as the LT77 so access will still be very akward. You will need to lift the center top panel off of the seat box, between the two front seats. On mine the switch is not visable (due to the Hi-LO linkage above), you have to connect the wires by feel. Handbrake warning light wire would be White/Yellow. Hippo.

From the 300TDI (MY97)electrical library. For some reason I seem to be unable to upload images to this site today?

Black / Blue is the wire for the dff lock warning light. It goes to a switch on the top of the transfer box. The switch is on top of the output housing behind the front propshaft flange, hidden behind the front face of the seatbox, close to the side of the main gearbox, & under the hi-lo gear linkage. The other terminal on the switch is an earth, and terminates back to the transfer box case. EDIT: After re-reading that explaination, perhaps a picture will help. (looking down and forwards through the seatbox center cover) The switch is hidden under the linkage above the arrow in this pic. (you can just see the earth wire coming from under the linkage, and attached to the top left bolt on the housing to the right.) As you can see, it is quite akward to get the wires on and off as access is very tight on LT77 gearbox versions. The two wires on the left are for the reversing light switch. Hope this helps, Hippo.

The factory 200TDI I have here will run with or without the relay. The relay just seems to test the operation of the Brake and transmission temp lights on the warning panel when the engine is cranked. I think if it were me, I woud put a relay in the holder, If nothing else, It is as good a way as any to carry a spare relay.

Just checked the front end wiring on mine. The White/purple-ish wire on my Autosparks chassis loom also has no corresponding wire on the main (Genuine TDI) vehicle harness. These wires are simply not used on TDI engined vehicles it seems.

When I re-loomed mine last summer: I bought a 300TDI 110 chassis loom from Autosparks, this also had an extra 2 wires going down to the fuel tank, a spare Black (earth), and the white/purple-ish wire. So as daveturnbull sugests, it seems that the Autosparks chassis looms do indeed account for both diesel and petrol varients. On mine, the spare earth, and White/Purple-ish are unused and just cabletied neatly out of the way on my truck. perhaps one day they will come in handy for something else.

When I rebuilt my axle, I had a spare pair of vented discs attached to hubs that were thinner than the hubs fitted my early (1989) axle. I had to swap the vented discs to my hubs to use them, it was lucky that I spotted this when I did as I nearly rebuilt the wrong hubs. IIRC later hubs (200tdi ish I think) are shorter (bearings closer together) than the early ones. I suspect that you have a mismatch of swivel housings / stub axles / hubs. I am sure that someone more knowledgeable than myself will be along shortly to clarify / correctly answer this.