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MR-HIPPO

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Everything posted by MR-HIPPO

  1. I ordered a new Bearmach wiper switch, it is the type with the latching intermittent position ( PRC7370 ) The one i removed was held in place by two small bolts / machine screws that passed through the metal bracket behind the steering wheel and screwed into the metal switch housing. Upon trying to fit the new switch it became apparent that the mounting screw / bolt holes are not threaded. Am I missing something here, or should there be threads in these holes, as per the switch I removed? Without the threads, I am not sure how I could mount this. Many thanks, Hippo
  2. Yes both the new servos look the same as the old cracked unit. The part number of the replacement servos is LR013488
  3. The two new TRW servos are non ABS (LR013018) As for the original cracked unit: The complete pedal box assembly came from an online breaker, so I am uncertain of the original vehicle that the servo was from . Is it possible that my cracked unit (pictured above) is not LR013018? So far I have been unable to find a different servo that looks like my cracked one.
  4. Thank you for the replies. I have tried pushing the pedal a few times prior to starting to deplete the vacuum. I have also tried starting the engine after prising the non return valve out. (and pushing it back in) The pedal simply will not sink. It is certainly easier to press the pedal with the engine running than it is without, and the brakes feel fine when driven.
  5. Upon re reading, I could have explained that better, and with less typos. Alas the edit button has gone. In short. With the new servo fitted, and excellent brakes: If you start the engine with your foot on the brake pedal, the pedal does not sink. Will this be a problem for the MOT? Also what could be causing this? Everything I have read uses the above test as a way of testing if a brake servo is working.
  6. Having rebuilt my 1989 CSW it is now time to get an MOT It is now a solid 200tdi with disc brakes all round. I have rebuilt the brake system with a disc braked rear axle, rebuilt callipers all round, new pipes and flexi hoses. The pedal box, servo and master cylinder are form a 300tdi vehicle, and were bought as a complete second hand unit from a breakers. Upon test driving the vehicle I was shocked at how poorly the brakes performed, and after some reading on here I found the usual crack in the front of the servo. I fitted a new TRW servo for a 300tdi defender (LR013488) this looks identical to the old one, however when fitted it simply would not cause the brake pedal to sink under pressure when the engine was started. I spent several hours messing around with this, it did seem to hold a vacuum, but I just could not get the pedal to sink when the engine was started. I eventually removed the new servo and refitted my old cracked unit with some tape over the crack to seal it up, when tested this seemed to work as it should, the pedal sank when the engine was started, and upon test driving the vehicle the brakes felt fine. (The rest of the system remained unchanged during this test, I simply swapped the new servo for my old unit) I concluded that the new servo must be faulty, and the vendor although shocked that someone had a bad TRW unit agreed to accept it back for a refund. I purchased another replacement TRW unit but upon fitting it behaves the same as the one I returned. It holds a vacuum fine. When driven, the brakes are excellent, probably the best Land Rover brakes I have ever had, the servo clearly works. HOWEVER if you hold the Brake pedal down and start the engine the pedal does not drop. (I am pressing the pedal a few time prior to starting empty the vacuum) I believe this to be an MOT failure? I am at my wits end with this the brakes are excellent now, I simply can not get the pedal to sink when it is held down while the engine is started. I have tried a second vacuum pump.and also a second new non return valve, purely out of desperation. I have tested the vacuum from the pump by putting my thumb over the end of the pipe, and it seems to suck very well. With the old (bodged with tape) servo re-fitted every thing works as expected. Is this an MOT failure? Does any one have any ideas as to what the problem could be? My set up looks the same as the one pictured here Is it possible that I have purchased and fitted the wrong servo? I only have the breakers word that my pedal box / master cylinder was from a 300TDI. The new servo looks to be the same size and shape as the one I removed. I am at my wits end with this now and any input would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks, Hippo
  7. Thank you for the explanation. I have the older type external rubber seal, so no foam. But it does look as though there is room for a cable to pass between the roof and the inner corners of the B pillars.
  8. Thanks Guys. I have been looking at the electrical libraries for a 97 300tdi, and a td5 trying to figure this out. The 300tdi loom runs along the roof as described above, and the TD5 central locking harness comes up out of a grommet in the top edge of the kick panel. I have been unable to figure out the route that the 300tdi door pillar switch wire takes from the roof loom to the switch in the pillar. Does it run underneath the pillar trim, or does it drop through a hole in the roof (that I do not have) into the top of the pillar?
  9. I need to install intrusion switches and central locking actuators for 2nd row doors in my 1989 CSW project. What is the standard route to get a wiring harness into the B-pillars of a 110 station wagon? Many thanks Hippo
  10. Having recently fitted mine I would say that it is handy to have holes drilled in places that will allow you to get a cavity wax lance inside the various cavities when you fit the galvanised unit. You can never have too much protection against the dreaded rot.
  11. The 300tdi defender main loom to engine loom has two plugs, a large multi plug, and a single round plug that carries the feed from the starter relay to the immobiliser. The engine loom side of the small plug is connector no C203. C203 is attached to a metal clip, I am trying to identify the clip. One end of the clip is a spade type tab with a square hole, and the other end has a bolt hole. I need to panel mount a 300tdi engine compartment fuse box, and it looks like two of these clips will do the job just fine. Thanks in advance Hippo
  12. Just made a  purchase from you on eBay, super fast response, thank you.  Without people like you, projects like mine would never get finished.

    1. PaulMc

      PaulMc

      Thank you for your kind words 🙂

  13. Thank you all for the replies. Your comments have been most helpful.
  14. I can almost feel my arm being hypothetically twisted.
  15. Thank you. Is that close as a match to the paint code? or looks close based on personal experience?
  16. Thanks Fridge. I did not realise hat you could get paint matched to a nearest colour I will be spraying this myself. The reason for BS or Ral is partly down to the choice of paint, it is only available in standard colours, and partly down to ease of matching for future touch ups. I plan on keeping this vehicle for a very long time.
  17. I am trying to find a light sandy beige that is neither white, or yellow looking. The colour needs to be a standard BS / Ral colour. For some reason this is proving to be a lot more awkward than it should. I want something that looks like the below pictures when applied, the first picture is LRC133 Libyan matt sand I have tried BS 361 light stone, and this was too yellow, as was RAL 1002. I also tried 08 B 17 but this was very white / magnolia looking when it arrived. it looks like there may be several beige / buff options in the BS 381c range, but the colours i am seeing on my pc do not seem to match the actual colours (361 was very different, as was RAL 1002) I do not have access to actual BS colour swatches. I am hoping someone here has prior experience of painting a shade like this and will be able to recommend an appropriate colour. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  18. Just looked at my Marsland chassis. The rear edge of the mounts appear to be in line with the front edge of the Bulkhead outriggers Hope this helps
  19. Your chassis measurement would seem to be OK. I have a bare galvanised chassis here with a galvanised Bulkhead attached. As far as I can tell with a tape measure (and the wife) the bolt centres are ~1502mm apart. My gearbox X Member is not fitted yet. If you were to attack your old bulkhead bolts with an angle grinder and cut diagonally along the length of the thread, so that you end up with a long taper or wedge shape, you may be able to tap them home and stretch the bulkhead. I have a few bolts cut this way in my box of "special tools" that I have used to align problem holes. Good luck.
  20. Sorn was yearly until Dec 2013 (IIRC) DVLA recently chased me up about a vehicle that I neglected to re-sorn back in May 2013. According to the chap I spoke to on the phone at DVLA they were simply looking for a responce, if I had not contacted them the vehicle would have "fallen off of the system"
  21. Thanks to assistance from oneandtwo & paulMC, I now have a second hand loom minus the 10 way immobiliser plug, and the correct plug and fittings to make it suit my needs. Many thanks to everyone who has offered help and advice here. Hippo.
  22. Thanks for sharing. Taking the nearside pipe behind the pedal box is an interesting idea, it certainly keeps it out of the way. Many thanks, Hippo.
  23. I would certainly be interested to see the route of the pipework / electrical harnesses around the engine bay. Many thanks, Hippo.
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