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Tom Fall

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About Tom Fall

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  1. Competed in Winch Challenge, Comp Safari and crossover events like Driven To The Edge (plus just been to the Croatia Trophy as well) with Ashcroft shafts. We've never broken a rear shaft yet, we've done ONE Ashcroft CV but that's it! I would definitely go with the Ashcroft shafts again.
  2. Thanks guys, looks like stick ons will do fine then
  3. Hi All, I'm driving to Essen, Bremen, Sankt Andreasberg and Hamburg in February across 10 days in my 2.25 1978 88" SIII The question I have is: Is it worth buying stick on headlight deflectors for my SIII or should I just buy some LHD headlight bowls for the H4's? If I DO buy the headlight bowls, will I have to do any further adjustments? Likewise, if I buy the deflectors whats the best brand/best way to fit/any tips? Thanks in advance, Tom
  4. I've come from a Winch Challenge background, mainly in an a tray back 90 and my own daily driver Series III, but have now started doing Comp Safari in our new truck. Main things we've found are: Diff protectors - Worthless. We had a full wrap around Qt guard on our front diff. Never damaged in 4 years of winch challenges. Hit a stump at 20mph at our second Comp and it deformed, smashed into the diff housing and ripped it open around the crown wheel. We now have a 6mm Gwyn Lewis weld on diff pan instead (you'll notice all the other Comp Safari guys do similar). Shock absorber mounts - These can take a real bashing, especially if you land heavily. We've done some big damage to ours, including ripping them off the bottom mounts! Rear axle drop arm - I struggle to explain this any other way. The welded brace you have seen on the rear axle of some Comp racers really does make a massive difference. The back end follows much better. Ok, you loose a smidgen of rear travel but it's still very useable. One last thing....bear in mind that body damage is quite normal. It IS however extremely good fun. Come and compete with Southern Counties Off Road. Great bunch of guys, brilliant sites and I'll get to meet you at some point. I'm the co-driver in Purple Pig 3, which as the name suggests is a tiny purple buggy Tom
  5. Just to chuck my two penneth in... I run a S3 88" day to day as my only car, have done since 2006. When I first got it, my Series was on 6.00x16's and a standard 2.25 petrol. It wouldn't go past 60ish without screaming its nuts off. That changed with an overdrive, which made things more comfortable. Then came bigger tyres, then bigger again until my current 235/85R16's (equivalent to a 7.50x16). All through this though, I had a rev counter fitted. I can tell you that at 60mph in 4th (no OD) on the 6.00x16's, my Series was doing just over 4200rpm. That tallies perfectly with what everyone is saying here about gearing. Now though, with Overdrive and 235/85's but still on standard diffs, she cruises at 2900rpm at 60mph. Tyres made a massive 200rpm difference when I went from 225/75R16's to the current 235/85R16's.
  6. I'd be VERY up for doing this, in fact I think I'd have a go in my SIII rather than dragging the challenge truck along or using Dad's 90 V8!
  7. I've actually got one, and it's definitely an interesting bit of kit! The problem is, as Zardos said, it's an ARM processor - not compatible with normal PC or Mac software. However, it's more than capable of running Linux and at a fair old rate! I'm fiddling about programming mine, just seeing whats possible. The possibilities are pretty much endless, and in terms of MS control it's definitely quick enough. The problem would be actually writing the software to do it. Tom
  8. Looks like it's gonna be a hot one, guessing we're all up for having a communal BBQ?
  9. ....fits the engine, changes the gearbox, breaks then fixes then breaks then fixes the hydro-assist.... =P
  10. Hello matey, The "Brake" light should be to indicate a pressure failure in the brake line. Being a LWB it should have dual circuit servo assisted brakes. When the pressure in one of the circuits drops (indicating a failure or fluid leak) the light should come on to warn you. As for the locking up of rear brakes...well with nothing in the back, it's got no ballast and very little grip over the rear wheels so I'm not massively surprised!! Tom
  11. I'm pretty surprised to hear that the guys at Llanerchindda said that to you Si! I don't doubt you for a second, obviously, just very surprised that Lynn, Martin, Mark or Andrew would have said that!! In their defence, they are running a business. The rooms in the guesthouse are easier let out to individual couples than to groups, and if you'd been in Y Stabl (the adjoining building) they wouldn't have said anything, I'm sure, as that part IS intended to be self catering. Either way though, I'm still going at the end of the month and can't wait!! Tom
  12. Excellent news, looking forward to the first event =)
  13. I've done the rears on my 88" numerous times. Best shoes I've found are Mintex, they go straight on and work with good pedal. Had a few cheap pairs from Paddock's before, and they honestly were carp until I'd taken them off road and worn a chamfer into them with sand in the drums!
  14. Hehe...well done FF for spotting I'm a leaf man! Therefore the mounting of them is actually pretty easy, and space isn't an issue. What I'm looking at doing is using a set of rear leaf spring U-bolt plates on the front, but so that the shocks are inward. "WHY?!" I hear you all shouting. Simples. The standard front U-bolt plates have a massive extended downward lip on the trailing edge that the shock mounts to. It's this far back so that the swivels still get full travel, and thus full steering lock. BUT, it also means that on my meagre little tyres (which still have a good 10k miles in them) when in a rut, the downward lip shovels mud under the springs and eventually lifts the front of the car up!!! I've seen it happen a few times on different courses where (unfortunately) the routes meant that ruts are un-straddleable. So now you know why I'm looking into it! In theory, after some looking and measuring, it would be as simple as making a shim to clear the shock from the chassis and using the existing top bolt holes to bolt through. That means that I could do it, try it, and see what happens...just thought I'd throw the idea out first =P Tom
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