Tom Fall

Competed in Winch Challenge, Comp Safari and crossover events like Driven To The Edge (plus just been to the Croatia Trophy as well) with Ashcroft shafts. We've never broken a rear shaft yet, we've done ONE Ashcroft CV but that's it! I would definitely go with the Ashcroft shafts again.

Thanks guys, looks like stick ons will do fine then

Hi All, I'm driving to Essen, Bremen, Sankt Andreasberg and Hamburg in February across 10 days in my 2.25 1978 88" SIII The question I have is: Is it worth buying stick on headlight deflectors for my SIII or should I just buy some LHD headlight bowls for the H4's? If I DO buy the headlight bowls, will I have to do any further adjustments? Likewise, if I buy the deflectors whats the best brand/best way to fit/any tips? Thanks in advance, Tom

I've come from a Winch Challenge background, mainly in an a tray back 90 and my own daily driver Series III, but have now started doing Comp Safari in our new truck. Main things we've found are: Diff protectors - Worthless. We had a full wrap around Qt guard on our front diff. Never damaged in 4 years of winch challenges. Hit a stump at 20mph at our second Comp and it deformed, smashed into the diff housing and ripped it open around the crown wheel. We now have a 6mm Gwyn Lewis weld on diff pan instead (you'll notice all the other Comp Safari guys do similar). Shock absorber mounts - These can take a real bashing, especially if you land heavily. We've done some big damage to ours, including ripping them off the bottom mounts! Rear axle drop arm - I struggle to explain this any other way. The welded brace you have seen on the rear axle of some Comp racers really does make a massive difference. The back end follows much better. Ok, you loose a smidgen of rear travel but it's still very useable. One last thing....bear in mind that body damage is quite normal. It IS however extremely good fun. Come and compete with Southern Counties Off Road. Great bunch of guys, brilliant sites and I'll get to meet you at some point. I'm the co-driver in Purple Pig 3, which as the name suggests is a tiny purple buggy Tom

Just to chuck my two penneth in... I run a S3 88" day to day as my only car, have done since 2006. When I first got it, my Series was on 6.00x16's and a standard 2.25 petrol. It wouldn't go past 60ish without screaming its nuts off. That changed with an overdrive, which made things more comfortable. Then came bigger tyres, then bigger again until my current 235/85R16's (equivalent to a 7.50x16). All through this though, I had a rev counter fitted. I can tell you that at 60mph in 4th (no OD) on the 6.00x16's, my Series was doing just over 4200rpm. That tallies perfectly with what everyone is saying here about gearing. Now though, with Overdrive and 235/85's but still on standard diffs, she cruises at 2900rpm at 60mph. Tyres made a massive 200rpm difference when I went from 225/75R16's to the current 235/85R16's.

I'd be VERY up for doing this, in fact I think I'd have a go in my SIII rather than dragging the challenge truck along or using Dad's 90 V8!

I've actually got one, and it's definitely an interesting bit of kit! The problem is, as Zardos said, it's an ARM processor - not compatible with normal PC or Mac software. However, it's more than capable of running Linux and at a fair old rate! I'm fiddling about programming mine, just seeing whats possible. The possibilities are pretty much endless, and in terms of MS control it's definitely quick enough. The problem would be actually writing the software to do it. Tom

Looks like it's gonna be a hot one, guessing we're all up for having a communal BBQ?

....fits the engine, changes the gearbox, breaks then fixes then breaks then fixes the hydro-assist.... =P

Hello matey, The "Brake" light should be to indicate a pressure failure in the brake line. Being a LWB it should have dual circuit servo assisted brakes. When the pressure in one of the circuits drops (indicating a failure or fluid leak) the light should come on to warn you. As for the locking up of rear brakes...well with nothing in the back, it's got no ballast and very little grip over the rear wheels so I'm not massively surprised!! Tom

So come on then...who's got some photo's to show us?!

I'm pretty surprised to hear that the guys at Llanerchindda said that to you Si! I don't doubt you for a second, obviously, just very surprised that Lynn, Martin, Mark or Andrew would have said that!! In their defence, they are running a business. The rooms in the guesthouse are easier let out to individual couples than to groups, and if you'd been in Y Stabl (the adjoining building) they wouldn't have said anything, I'm sure, as that part IS intended to be self catering. Either way though, I'm still going at the end of the month and can't wait!! Tom

Excellent news, looking forward to the first event =)

I've done the rears on my 88" numerous times. Best shoes I've found are Mintex, they go straight on and work with good pedal. Had a few cheap pairs from Paddock's before, and they honestly were carp until I'd taken them off road and worn a chamfer into them with sand in the drums!

Hehe...well done FF for spotting I'm a leaf man! Therefore the mounting of them is actually pretty easy, and space isn't an issue. What I'm looking at doing is using a set of rear leaf spring U-bolt plates on the front, but so that the shocks are inward. "WHY?!" I hear you all shouting. Simples. The standard front U-bolt plates have a massive extended downward lip on the trailing edge that the shock mounts to. It's this far back so that the swivels still get full travel, and thus full steering lock. BUT, it also means that on my meagre little tyres (which still have a good 10k miles in them) when in a rut, the downward lip shovels mud under the springs and eventually lifts the front of the car up!!! I've seen it happen a few times on different courses where (unfortunately) the routes meant that ruts are un-straddleable. So now you know why I'm looking into it! In theory, after some looking and measuring, it would be as simple as making a shim to clear the shock from the chassis and using the existing top bolt holes to bolt through. That means that I could do it, try it, and see what happens...just thought I'd throw the idea out first =P Tom

I may be wrong, but I think the 6cyl and V8 models all had 11" front drums. If thats the case....you want this: http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/products/600203_back_plate_front_rh_2_6_litre_and_v8_.php Tom

No, have a look on here discomikey: http://www.difflock.com/buyersguide/newproducts/gone2far/index.shtml Front ones, the red things

Assuming near enough identical mounting position, except being inboard of chassis rails, what are the advantages/limitations/disadvantages/handling changes? Discuss =P

Already looked mate, and although you could fit the rears to the front, it would be a little pointless. The angle the rears mount at is the main reason for the extra length of them. The total stroke length is near enough the same, its just the maximum compression and extension that are different...if any of that made sense!!! New question for all of you techy people though....any thoughts on what effect it would have if I used REAR spring mounts (and therefore lower shock mounts) up front, and moved the shockers inboard?

RobotMan...I've just checked through my box of receipts (it's a big box)...by jingo, you're right! I didn't remember them being different part numbers when I bought them, but that was 6 years ago! In which case, I wonder how much of my problem is actually the shockers restricting downward travel? Methinks I'm going to be taking a front and a rear off to measure them fully extended at the weekend...

We are still talking about Land Rovers here aren't we? In all seriousness, I agree with you FF. The fact that I've learnt to drive off road in a Series truck does mean I think more about what lines to take, what I can and can't do and how to approach things. Looking back through photo's of some of the stuff I've done in a **relatively** standard Series does make me smile, and as I say its unusual that clearance IS an issue... But lets be honest, we all like to fiddle with our trucks, try and make them more capable...that's part of owning a Land Rover!!

I'm on +2" at the moment, and the back end will still comfortably touch onto the bumpstops. I haven't checked whether I can do that on the front yet, but I will. Considering that the shocks are identical F+R, it shouldn't be any different. The fact that the droop is limited severely on the front is, I'm pretty sure, attributable to the steering system and also the short length of the springs, thus limiting their ability to twist - hence why I'm going to be building something similar to the Gon2Far mounts (including making it lockable for road use). What I'm looking at really is making my car as capable as possible without modifying the chassis. I want everything to be 'bolt on', as I have a 2 year old galvanised chassis and I don't really want to be cutting into it, welding on it or modifying it if possible.

discomikey, I've got extended shocks on the old girl, they're identical shocks front and rear so I know for a fact it's not them limiting the front end. Mine's full body, but is slowly turning into a station wagon (already got the sides and about to put the roof on). It's pretty good, but with a bit of extra load in the back its DEFINITELY more comfy. My Series definitely does a lot better than most Defenders, I used to walk all over them at Woodlands 4x4. I used to be able to do every black run (most difficult ones) easily. I just want it to be as good as possible =P I suppose I've been spoiled really, I compete in a Challenge 90...

Nice piccy FF =) I'm quite jealous of your 109...it's a lovely bit of kit!!! I agree I'm not necessarily being fair on my S3, as it does do 99% of what I ask of it...but there's nothing wrong with wanting it to be that little bit more capable I do avoid other peoples ruts where possible, but sometimes it's not possible (high sides to the route meaning I can't straddle). I suppose, to be honest, I'm asking a lot more of my car than most S3 drivers do, but I'd quite like to see how far I can take her!! I didn't realise that my tyres were smaller than standard to be honest, when I bought the first set I basically went with what looked "right" in the arches, but I think the next set will definitely be 235/85 R16's.

Yeah I'm on para's, two leaf front, three leaf rears all on a set of ProComp shocks. I get relatively good front flex, but it's nothing in comparison to whats possible. I actually did some measurements and I can get a good 12" of rear droop as opposed to about 4" of front (lifted each corner with a Hi-Lift). I know that's not the most scientific way to check it, and I know the axle will give more articulation with pressure on the opposite side. However, with relocated shock mounts and Gon2Far spring mounts you can get similar to whats in this pic... I'm not gonna move my shock mounts, but with a similar front mount I'm hoping I'll gain at least a few inches more droop allowing me to avoid cross axling quite so much =)