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Lara

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About Lara

  • Rank
    Old Hand

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  • Website URL
    http://www.lmbracing.be
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  • Location
    Belgium

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  • Interests
    Old cars, Old planes and Well prepped Landies

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  1. Absolutely. Although you will find it's not quite pound for pound but the principle is correct. Go for it, it's certainly not rocket science, or black art. Lara
  2. Hi Gremlin, sure, All I did was to use a standard type boost controll capsule and fit it to work in the oposite direction to the vacuum controller, ie. to push instead of pull. Work out on whatever unit you use what direction you need your actuater to work in. (Vanes need to be closed at low boost and open as boost increases) and rig up your boost controll to work appropriately. Getting the correct spring pressure takes a little doing as it is not the same as a wastegated unit. I split one of my old units at the seam and made a clamp ring to bolt it back together again so I could chang
  3. Without a doubt in my opinion (25 years playing proffecionally with modified engines and Turbos) the best turbo to opt for if you are going to play DIY installations is the Garrett 2559v from something like the Renault Vel-Satis etc These have the larger 25 series water cooled bearing housing and can stand higher sustained throttle openings without bearing problems etc. I was one of the first people (about 2004 surely not the first though) to fit a VV turbo to a TD5 engine and after much testing I found this unit to be far and away better than anything else tested. Initially this was fitted to
  4. Don't tell me Steve, You were getting "Work" hardened, and as nothing KAM ever made seemed to be hardened, you had to go! Don't answer that! am taking the "P" Good luck whith whatever you are doing now! Lara
  5. Don't worry folks! Devon are updating as you probably know and there are a few issues with the new site etc that need to be sorted out! All will be working again in a very short time! Lara
  6. Christ Daan! Surely you can try harder than that!!
  7. Good link!! I have to explain this to clients on a regular basis. Now I can just post them the link. Thanks! Lara
  8. Hi Bushy, I don't think that anyone is saying that the physics and theory are wrong. What is actually happening in the system described is difficult to know for sure but it does work. So somewhere in the line something has changed in order to make it work. That is fact, but "What" is the question! I think this. In your barometer example you have a higher pressure acting on the fluid, forcing the fluid up to a lower pressure area. Natural physics. You have a sealed capsule on the top with 1000mb pressure and varying pressure on the base fluid, so creating a moving column. In the engine, I
  9. I agree with both of you! In theory it should,t work like it does, But in practice the fact that there is only a relatively small pressure in the crank case and not enough to blow the oil up the pipe if fitted below the oil level, this in turn allows the oil to run down the pipe, unaffected by the airflow it would normally encounter if above the oil level. In practice it does work quite well as Zoltan says. Lara. (not 100% sure on that theory but it's the only explanation I can find) and I was on top of the world at the time looking down on my creation!
  10. Into the cab heater, so on hot days you can smell how good your engine is breathing Lara
  11. Hi Neil, No not recommending it in this instance. I would agree with Aragorn about the water issue! However on a race engine you rarely plumb it back to the inlet as oil can contaminate the inlet charge and cause detonation, because generally if building a race engine to it's best potential you would be running the highest RC possible to get away with given your rules and regs and fuel available etc. It would be unwise to let oil get in there! Actually, the clever racing guys sometimes plumb it into the exhaust in a way to use the exhaust to create a negative pressure and suck from the tan
  12. I find this material very effective! Lara
  13. Yes I agree with that one! It looks far too small. It is actually one hell of a job to make a good shaped catch tank that does not blow oil out the top under race conditions when your engine is "breathing hard" Nige Top pipe is breather to filter box or for a separate filter etc, Side pipes are inlet from engine, either both rocker covers or crank case inlet valley and rocker cover, but would suggest both rocker boxes! Also if you rivet a small plate over the inside of the fittings in the rocker cover, these will act as "splash deflectors" and stop the rocker gear throwing oil into the
  14. May be interesting or not But a couple of years ago I did some load cell tests of a few winches and motors etc and found a massive difference in efficiency between winches that were supposedly the same and even fitted with the exact same motor (actual motor from the other winch) and treble checked for repeatability and comparability! I mean over 25% in some cases (forgive the pun) I think you would need to test the motor directly to get any real figures! I would make up a disc brake with the calliper connected to a load cell and calculate from there! Hope comments are of some help. Lar
  15. Hi again Richard, Just re-read my reply and just want to say that my response was difficult to word and I mean no disrespect what so ever. I am just trying to put over my findings from many years hard dedicated work and learning. I too may have made mistakes but am fairly sure there are no serious ones above! (other than the odd spelling) Best regards, Julian
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