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Lara

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    Belgium

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    Old cars, Old planes and Well prepped Landies

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  1. Absolutely. Although you will find it's not quite pound for pound but the principle is correct. Go for it, it's certainly not rocket science, or black art. Lara
  2. Hi Gremlin, sure, All I did was to use a standard type boost controll capsule and fit it to work in the oposite direction to the vacuum controller, ie. to push instead of pull. Work out on whatever unit you use what direction you need your actuater to work in. (Vanes need to be closed at low boost and open as boost increases) and rig up your boost controll to work appropriately. Getting the correct spring pressure takes a little doing as it is not the same as a wastegated unit. I split one of my old units at the seam and made a clamp ring to bolt it back together again so I could change springs at will. One days messing will usually sort it though. Hope that helps. Pic here to show vane direction. Low boost setting Opening as boost increases Lara
  3. Without a doubt in my opinion (25 years playing proffecionally with modified engines and Turbos) the best turbo to opt for if you are going to play DIY installations is the Garrett 2559v from something like the Renault Vel-Satis etc These have the larger 25 series water cooled bearing housing and can stand higher sustained throttle openings without bearing problems etc. I was one of the first people (about 2004 surely not the first though) to fit a VV turbo to a TD5 engine and after much testing I found this unit to be far and away better than anything else tested. Initially this was fitted to a 2.5 litre engine and later to my Stroked 2.8 litre TD5 engine. Ultimately giving 265(real)bhp and 420 ftlb torque @ 1900 rpm. with a JJ Fearn chip and 2 Bar boost. Although this was rather too black for road use to be quite honest. Try using a 2559v you won't be disappointed. ! Just bought another one myself to fit to my 110 Overlander. A Variable Vane unit working correctly will be one of the best buys you can make for Landrover fitment! Total transformation! Lara PS. I use a modified pressure type progressive controll similar to the units on wastegated turbos, simple and reliable.
  4. Don't tell me Steve, You were getting "Work" hardened, and as nothing KAM ever made seemed to be hardened, you had to go! Don't answer that! am taking the "P" Good luck whith whatever you are doing now! Lara
  5. Don't worry folks! Devon are updating as you probably know and there are a few issues with the new site etc that need to be sorted out! All will be working again in a very short time! Lara
  6. Christ Daan! Surely you can try harder than that!!
  7. Good link!! I have to explain this to clients on a regular basis. Now I can just post them the link. Thanks! Lara
  8. Hi Bushy, I don't think that anyone is saying that the physics and theory are wrong. What is actually happening in the system described is difficult to know for sure but it does work. So somewhere in the line something has changed in order to make it work. That is fact, but "What" is the question! I think this. In your barometer example you have a higher pressure acting on the fluid, forcing the fluid up to a lower pressure area. Natural physics. You have a sealed capsule on the top with 1000mb pressure and varying pressure on the base fluid, so creating a moving column. In the engine, I think that the pressure above the sump oil (vented to the catch tank) and the pressure inside the return pipe dipped into the oil (also vented to the same catch tank) will stay the so close as not to matter. (maybe enough to raise the oil in the tube by an inch) a pressure difference of enough to get gas flow but not a lot else unless we block the other vent to the crank case! If we leave it like this the oil in the catch tank will drip down this pipe. and the level will equalize with the new level in the pipe. If we have the drain pipe above the oil level, the pipe will be subject to airflow, (just as the main scavenge pipe) thus carrying with it small droplets of oil that may want to go down and thus hampering the effectiveness of the drain tube. I have used both systems and they both work, however the system with the tube returning below the oil usually spits less out of the catch tank breather than the other, and keeps the tank empty even at full throttle max revs, where as the other works less and less efficiently the higher the engine breathing! but perfectly at lower revs / loads etc. However, With the drain below the oil level, I have also seen on engines with damaged rings and or holed pistons etc, the oil getting blown up this tube like a fountain!! we do need to treat each case with care and thought! We would not want this on a Diesel Lara
  9. I agree with both of you! In theory it should,t work like it does, But in practice the fact that there is only a relatively small pressure in the crank case and not enough to blow the oil up the pipe if fitted below the oil level, this in turn allows the oil to run down the pipe, unaffected by the airflow it would normally encounter if above the oil level. In practice it does work quite well as Zoltan says. Lara. (not 100% sure on that theory but it's the only explanation I can find) and I was on top of the world at the time looking down on my creation!
  10. Into the cab heater, so on hot days you can smell how good your engine is breathing Lara
  11. Hi Neil, No not recommending it in this instance. I would agree with Aragorn about the water issue! However on a race engine you rarely plumb it back to the inlet as oil can contaminate the inlet charge and cause detonation, because generally if building a race engine to it's best potential you would be running the highest RC possible to get away with given your rules and regs and fuel available etc. It would be unwise to let oil get in there! Actually, the clever racing guys sometimes plumb it into the exhaust in a way to use the exhaust to create a negative pressure and suck from the tank! Not so easy in reality though and you need a very free flowing exhaust system for this! Lara
  12. I find this material very effective! Lara
  13. Yes I agree with that one! It looks far too small. It is actually one hell of a job to make a good shaped catch tank that does not blow oil out the top under race conditions when your engine is "breathing hard" Nige Top pipe is breather to filter box or for a separate filter etc, Side pipes are inlet from engine, either both rocker covers or crank case inlet valley and rocker cover, but would suggest both rocker boxes! Also if you rivet a small plate over the inside of the fittings in the rocker cover, these will act as "splash deflectors" and stop the rocker gear throwing oil into the pipes! Your tank hopefully has extensions to the "IN" pipes on the side that turn 90 degrees and point them down. If not then cut a saw slot across the width of your tank, vertically down and at 90 degrees to the inlet pipes, from the single "OUT" pipe fairly close to it and on the side of the inlets and going down to about 10mm past the bottom of the lower of the two pipes. Then insert a piece of ally sheet cut to size and weld shut again. This will act as a reasonable baffle / deflector for the oil particles suspended in the "breathing" air. (I am trying to describe a plate shielding the inlets and outlet) How is the build going? We are all excited! And out of interest, how much is it costing? I remember years ago building a few 4.6 litre engines for F2 Ski boat racing, and parts made it rather expensive. I would be very interested to know if things had changed? Everyone always quotes the negatives of your type of build as too expensive compared to yanks etc but is that still true? Regards, Lara
  14. May be interesting or not But a couple of years ago I did some load cell tests of a few winches and motors etc and found a massive difference in efficiency between winches that were supposedly the same and even fitted with the exact same motor (actual motor from the other winch) and treble checked for repeatability and comparability! I mean over 25% in some cases (forgive the pun) I think you would need to test the motor directly to get any real figures! I would make up a disc brake with the calliper connected to a load cell and calculate from there! Hope comments are of some help. Lara
  15. Hi again Richard, Just re-read my reply and just want to say that my response was difficult to word and I mean no disrespect what so ever. I am just trying to put over my findings from many years hard dedicated work and learning. I too may have made mistakes but am fairly sure there are no serious ones above! (other than the odd spelling) Best regards, Julian
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