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I just wrecked a four door and took the following to the scrap metal yard 4dr body shell, no panels and 100" chassis = 530kg

I just wrecked a four door and took the following to the scrapy 4 door body shell, no panels a little bit off dash stuff and a chassis onlly 510kg

Thanks for the replies, doesn't seem to be a huge issue (though it should not happen) I will chase a new loom and a few cans of electrical contact cleaner. In days gone by manufacturers kept ironing out the bugs untill the got it right a few examples are LR 2.25, rover v8, ford 250, chrysler/hemi 245, small block chev. Legislation in the EC seems to have stiffled development of existing engines to the point where manufacturers cannot keep up with the chages or did LR chage to new engines for more marketability for new sales. didn't international pickup the build rights to the 300tdi and produce the 2.8 with all the apparant bugs fixed? thanks for the help , catch you soon, Michael

Hi all, my 2000 td5 disco is starting to misbehave. About 3 weeks ago it started to run really rough, I put this down to bad fuel as I had just fuelled up at a small remote town.In the last week it has started to return intermitantly to a feeling of water in the fuel or a dropped cylinder, pull over stop the car and it may go away. I went and got it plugged into rovacom lite and the chap said that it is probably oil in the computer, that got there from getting into the loom as it passes through the rocker cover and migrating through the copper cores of the wires and into the computer where it causes havoc. He said that it usually takes about 5 years for this to happen and I should replace the part of the loom that passes through the rocker cover, clean the compter with electrical contact cleaner and keep up the contact cleaner on all the terminals for about 3 months. I tried asearch but could not find anything evidently this is quiet a common problem and I thought someone here might have experience of it. Cheers Michael

Thanks for the replies, Today I removed the r380 from the donor by taking the roof off and lowering it to the floor from an over head beam using a 2t pul-pal, but I dont want to remove the roof from my car again. So , remove engine, position hoist through door and lower gearbox to floor, drag out, slide new sexy gearbox under car and raise and fit into position, reinstall engine. Does this sound like it should be easy? Cheers Michael

I have picked up a car for wrecking that has a late model r380 l suffix box in it, and wouldn't mind trying it out, at the moment I have a 4spd and it is nice and strong but only lets you down when you want to change direction or swap into a different gear, they have about the same shift quality as a road ranger truck box. Reading through the manuals they both say to bring the box through the inside of the cab, what I want to do is lift my engine and gearbox and TC out in one through removing the radiator support panel and associated stuff,swap the gear bxes over and return it to whence it came. I dont know if this is possible but it seems a lot easier than the workshop manual way. Would I also need a different clutch to go from 4.6,lt95-4.6r380. Cheers michael.

I just put new points, plugs, leads, condesor, coil and cap into the 2.25 petrol. I also set the timing and adjusted the tappet clearance. It was running like a swiss watch for a couple of hours untill I started giving it a bit of a hard time then the idle was erratic and would stall if I tried to rev it. It would run with the choke on and I limped home that way. Do i have an electrical problem or fuel problem? If it is an electrical problem why would it run with the choke on? Cheers Michael 11a 109 ex oz army 82 RR 4.6 maxi's cage etc etc 2000 d2 dints and scratches

you will have to get hold of a workshop manual, I don't think the haynes covers it. Set everything up as per the manual except that they say to use a dummy shaft ( a special LR part ) I just slidec the intermediate sfaft through and put on the gears and associated stuff as I go. Then be patient and keep persisting till you get it all in. If you ever thought about changing high range ratios this is the time to do it. Cheers. Michael.

The gear box jumping out of high range would most probably be caused by wear in the shims on the intermediate shaft in the transfer case. To repair it you will need to remove th e intermediate shaft and reinstall it with the reqiured shimming to factory spec. The parts are cheap, it should take max 4hrs . THe hard bit is getting all the gears and shims on the shaft in the correct order without dropping off. If you aren't confident with this sort of stuff, speak to a LR specialist about it they should not charge you more than 4hrs labour. Cheers Michael

My 82 rangy had a fairy overdrive fitted to it, which I removed when I fitted the 4.6 as i thought it would be more use with everything intact. My son has a series 11a 2.25 petrol ex oz army workshop vehicle. I was just wondering if fitting the overdrive to the series transfer case is a simple bolt on, adaptor plate or major mod not really worth it kind of idea. Cheers Michael.

Front 2 yr old maxi with 4.11 nice and tight Rear new4.11 in 4 yr old maxi A frame ball joint good. Trailing arm, radius arm bushes good. I have a theory that I have put too much preload on the centre diff through the speedo drive housing, that causes most unlocked drive to through the CD gears but when locked it has to go through the housing. I had a terrible time installing the intermediate gears, which I did first then installed the centre diff it's preload is then affected by the intermediate gears which I wasn't going to remove and start again. Hope I am making sense. Cheers Michael

G'day all This is my first post here after lurking for a while. I am hoping for some help at curing the clunks and back lash in the transfer case of an lt95 The box was rebuilt by yours truly about two years ago ( with cyber help ). I have just installed a tapered roller bearing conversion to the intermediate gears, now I get large clunks when backing of the throttle and then again when coming back on. With the centre diff locked the clunks aren't there but the car then shudders at low speed. Any thoughts and ideas appreciated. Cheers Michael