Gilmore

I would like someone to shed some light on the suject of a leaf over modification. I have a 1973 seris 3 88 SWB. Of what i can gather on various articles on the net is that with this specific land rover that the angle of the prop shaft front and back becomes too large and it causes a vibration or ultamtely brakes the prob shaft. So what is the maximum angle the propshaft can opperate in relation between the axle and the transfer box? Have anybody done this before and have any thoughts on this especially in regard to stearing modifications exct? Then the other way of getting some body and frame hight is an extention welded onto the body that the front end of the springs connect on to and then using longer shackles on the rear end. Is this a safer way of gaining some hight and is there any reason why this is not recommended? Any info would be much appreciated!!!

I am in the process of buyng a set of BF Goodrich 235/85/16 MT KM2 tires. Will I have any problems of it rubbing or will it run smoothly? I have 15" rims and tire at the moment so need to change the rims as well. What is the width of the rim that is recommended?

The braking system is on a series 3 88 1973. I spoke to a friend yesterday and he had a look at the master cilinder and the leak was not there. He talked about a valve in there that could be blocked? Yesterday I was driving and for the whole day had no problem and then this morning it was soft all over again. The cams are set right. All the shoes are free from oil. Any Ideas?

I have just ordered a new master cylender for it is leaking. Will keep you posted. Thanx for the info.

I just refurbished my brakes thinking it would work.... So now one in every ten times I push the peddle I get a nice hard brake but the rest of the times I have to pump it about three times before it engages. The springs are the right way around, the leading shoe is facing forward, I blead the brakes with the nose jacked up... Any ideas or facts of what the problem could be?

I read on some of the previous articles that balooning happens on some brake pipes, first push the pipes expand and second push maximum expansion is there and the brakes feel crisp. Then on another article I read that you can clamp off three of the brake hoses and push the peddle and if its tight the first push then clamp off that particular one and release one of the others. Press the brake and if its soft you have found the brake line with the problem, it narrows down the search for finding the problem. And yet on another article I read that if you bleed your brakes it helps to lift the front end of the ground so that any trapped air goes in one direction and not just move forward and backwards as you bleed the brakes. Hope this helps. Gilmore

I keep mine in 2WD most of the time as well with tire prassure on 0.8bar to see the potential and how far I can get but a few times I almost got into trouble. Driving in the desert and on the beach you are on hard sand and the next moment flat on the belly. To engage the hubs I need to back it up or go forward from time to time and being almost stuck there isnt much room to manouvre!!! Thankfully up to now the couple of mm movement I got out was enough to get the job done. I am well impressed with my Land Rover and its the best money I ever spend and the most fun I have had in a long time. I read somewhere on a forum that with the series 3 older models like mine I need to run it as much as possible with the hubs engaged, the reason being that some parts in the front axle gets lublicated or somewhere in that line. What is the story behind that?

The freewheel hubs normaly have '2' or 4x2 & '4' or 4x4?? Hi muddy90 Thanx for the info on the carb, will finally be home on Thursday back from Angola and will do a proper search (most of the stuff I try finding here on the net is blocked from the server). What is it you mean by your hub question? I am totally new to Land Rovers and would like to get to know my vehicle inside out. All I know of my hubs up to now is that there is two screw mechanisims opposit each other on each hub and they have arrows facing away from each other when disengaged and to engage them you turn each 180 degrees and have the arrows pointing towards each other. Hit the yellow knob and 4x4 is ingaged. The ones I am used to on a 4x4 is the single unit that you turn and it points to lock or unlock on the hub. Are there any known problems with the hubs I have, except for leaking oil, or are they robust and take the punch?

Thank you for the promp reply. Here is an attached photo of the hubb. Sorry for the quality but I am on an oil rigg in Angola so its all I have unfortunately. Hope this helps. Any help on the Weber carb question?

Hi all Thanx for all the usefull info on this site but have some questions in regard to some answers I cant seem to find. I am replacing my Zenith with a Weber but no where I can find a step by step guide like some topicks in the technical archive. I was wondering if there is any special tricks to it or if its a simple bolt and pipes off and back on again. I have the adaptor plate and as far as I know that is the only extra I need. Then another one. What is the procedure with setting up a Weber, single port and twin stage choke, without the specialist tools? My Zenith was easy enough, turn down the mixture screw till the engin dies and then a full turn back. Dont know if that was right but it seemed to work and thats the way it gets done in Namibia in the desert hehehe. Then the last one.... For now!! I am a new Land Rover owner. Just recently bought a 1973 series 3 88 with the 2.25 motor. The question I have is in regard to the front wheel locks. Is the standert issue the one where you turn the two arrows so they face towards each other to lock the wheel? I cant seem to find any picks on the net from any other Landys like mine with the same setup. I am replacing the brake cylinders and the brake shoes and was wondering if they are standerd through the series models like I have? Regards Gilmore