Mangan

"'97 was a terrible year for chassis" ? Hilarious! OK, thank you for your thoughts, I have to ponder how much care the car is worth.

So, it's only the chassis that needs work, the rest is "touch-up"? How much work on stripping the chassis would either method require? Removing axles and tub (have a 110 HCPU)? Break lines, electrical? Everything? I don't know how much work it is changing chassis, but the price of a new one is not ridiculously high. But the work...

OK, my chassis is getting rusty. I have started working with my Defneder with no knowledgs of cars or mechanics, but have managed to replace head gasket, radiator, wheel bearings and brake discs and calipers. And today I'm below my Defender re-mountig the prop shaft after an UJ change. IN -10C... :-( But when it comes to rust and repair, I have a lot to learn. Such as when itäs time to give up, or time to start learning how to weld. Due to salt and the roads, the back half of the chassis is quite bad. See below. Is this a common situation for a -97 Defender? Might I as well change the chassis? Or should I just get a MIG-welder and start practicing? I gues I want to know how to attajc this problem, please tell me what you should have done.

I usually order parts from Paddocks, so no problem. Yeah, I added my location after MM asked the first time, in case you wondered. I'll put a new track rod on my whish list then. It's a slight toe-out at the moment < 2 mm, so no real problem in static mode. But what happens when I drive, does the tube "flex" and destroys handling (if that's a possibility...)?

Gothenburg, Sweden. ;-) I have no idea what shipping would be from where you are.

The track rod ends are all new, so no need to switch those. I hope? I'd prefer running on the existing rod if possible.

So I *slightly* bent my track rod (the one going from wheel to wheel?) when getting stuck in the mud. Just had a new one fitted... Is it OK to adjust the toe-in/toew-out and keep on driving, or should I replace it? Or is it possible to unbend it with a hammer and a vice?

Thanks Mo, right were I expected them to be. No sign of them, though.

I had to change my radiator, and follwed the instructions here To remove it. However, no O-rings were seen at the oil cooler. Are they needed? Looked in MicroCat, and none is shown on the graphics. Found ESR1549L, which appears to be an O-ring in the vicinity. Should I order and mount these? Have a -97 300tdi, VA- Here's some with the same trouble? http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=66039

Any ready-made solutions for the stowage box. It's an odd shape, and it would be good if everything could be used. Preferrably removable. On the left side there is the spare tire.

I own a 110 HCPU, -97. Have had a canvas top, but now removed it. Like iy better without. However, the canvas had its positive side, rain protection and (limited) tamper resistance. I now want to have some tips and tricks on how to protect stuff from the element. I usually carry: * Hand winch * Towing strap * HiLift, the long one * Tool box (general tools, not for the LR) I have thought I should buy a plastic chest/large box and put on the back, but need additional ideas. Please feel free to tell me how you have done it? Sometimes I would like to transport larger stuff (furniture, bikes), maybe a simple canvas with strapping could be fitted somewhere. Storage in the cab?

Thanks cackshifter, I could feel it just where you told us. How can I make sure block or head is not damaged, and a new head gasket is all that is needed? After I dismantled everything, I mean.

I have similar symptoms, did you ever find out what the problem was?

Does the FTC3154 stub axle come complete with needle bearing and seal? If not, is it hard to fit them?

No, the swivel had some oil, wonder it it came from the axle or not. Hopefully I don't have to replace the stub itself, nor the needle bearing.

Needed new brake pads on front left wheel. Couldn't push the pistons back in (rust) so I decided to buy a new caliper. Might as well change the brake discs also, the thickness was below the 12mm specified. Got caliper off, but when removing drive flange/member? It was stuck to the axle. Bone dry, not a trace of grease. Managed to remove it, the wheel bearings were of course beyond hope (surprised they still sort of worked). Well, I'd just done the same on the rear axle (during winter, outside, in 30cm of snow) so how hard could it be? Quite hard, I couldn't fit a new drive flange on to the rusty shaft... So, what is the easiest way to change the shaft, I need to replace the CV joint, right? The swivel ball looks OK and no apparent leaks, so minimal work on that is preferred. Should I just remove the stub axle, and can I then change CV joint without messing with swivel bearings/play/shims/seal? I've read a couple of Les' excellent howtos and some other also. My axle is a 64L on a 300tdi 110 HCPU -97. (Hope I got the terms right, please correct me if not)

Your park switch is broken. Buy a new one, part number 520160