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Tibout

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Everything posted by Tibout

  1. Hi apology for delay replying. Been a bit busy fabricating one working from some photos and homemade drawings. I came up with a carrier which work I even made a little piston type thing which allow opening of the door with carrier together. Going to powder coat it and do the final fit. I have all my measurement if anyone want it to work something out. I'll post a pictures once the landy is respray and wheel carrier on.
  2. Hi guys very odd question. I'm looking to fabricate my own swing away spare wheel carrier. I want to make it similar to the mantra ones using tubes. I have s rough idea how it's suppose to work but missing some critical measurement. So would be great if anyone have one fitted and I could get the measurement from. I know it's asking for loads but if I get the measurement of the actual carrier itself I could work out with my own measurement I'll get a better idea. The bracket and hinge are sorted. It would be a great project for the tech archive as well I think. Thanks in advance Thierry
  3. I think it is Bosch not Lucas well I remember reading it somewhere I could be wrong. I've seen the warranty as well but there's so many retailer selling them so you could get lucky or not depending on how they would deal with it
  4. I did rebuilt the FPR when I did the head and since then the Landy takes a bit longer to start first thing in the morning. Will crank for about 10sec then fire up with a little tap on the accelerator. Seems like air is getting in somewhere and sound like its around the FRP area. I've replace everything else apart from the FPR itself. I guess it would make sense to replace the whole unit this time
  5. Hi Les thanks for input. I've used loads of bearmach parts as well have no issue with them. Was just wondering as the FPR on the td5 is quite "fussy" prone to leak after replacement if good quality parts are not use. I don't want to do the job twice and worst buy the parts twice. I think I might go with the bearmach which would be £60 cheaper. I'll bit the bullet and I'll keep you update if it's worth it or not! thierry
  6. Yeah could be Lucas. I know bearmach are quite reliable but down want to spend over 100quid then realise it's not good enough. Just wanted to know if anyone have fitted one and if there's any issue
  7. Hi guys I'm sure it's been debate before but can't find it. Just wondering if anyone have experienced with Bearmach fuel pressure regulator? Are they reliable? Or would I better off get a genuine one. taking into consideration the genuine one is about £60 more expensive!! Any thoughts welcome. thanks Thierry
  8. Also am I right that the bolts which secure the tbox are M10? So that i can get some threaded bar to make some extended studs to put the tbox back.
  9. any specific sealant? RTV or hylomar!! You have the part number for the input seal? Thanks
  10. Thanks a mil. I'll get some threaded bolt tomorrow. Would you use some sealant as well with the o ring? thinking of replacing the main seal as well as it might get damage while dropping the tbox. What's the part number for it?
  11. Tbox have been leaking for a while now and going to have a go at it next weekend. It seems to be coming from the intermediate shaft probably the o ring. The landy is a 2004. I know there's 2 o ring one at the front and one at the back Are they both the same for a 2004 defender td5? Also while I'm here what other seal should I replace? ( bare in minds I'm not stripping the box I'm doing it the bodge way!) I wanted to replace the bolts with studs as mention somewhere it makes realigning the tbox with gearbox easier without damaging the seal between them. any advice more than wellcome Thanks Thierry
  12. Hi while removing the radio off my 2004 defender td5 I've noticed couple of spare connections. Just wondering if one of them could be for heated front windscreen as I was thinking putting one for winter and would be great if I didn't have to get a loom for it. Here's a pic it's not great but hope someone could shed some lights! thanks Thierry
  13. Yeah I get you. I'll take it on board and just use the first setting. It does heat up quicker on the 2nd setting but I always switch on the landy at least 5 mins before I get on the road to work every morning. I like getting the engine warmish so I guess if I switch the heater kit on by the time I'm in it should be hot and won't need the use of the 2nd setting!!
  14. I did and going to change it soon have just ordered the switches for it. Thanks
  15. Hi guys Installed the heater kit today and wiring it using the kit loom. I've used the switch provided and will change to a carling switch on the dash. I've tap it with the green/white wire and this only power the unit when it ignition is on as suggested. they Live feed come straight from the battery. The only annoying thing is that even on the off position the red light on the switch stay on!!! But the pad doesn't heat up in that position which is good!! I've put the switch on the cover of the fuse box it's discreet and tidy. It's very warm on position 2 i guess that would be just for heating up then put on position 1
  16. Thanks Mo I'll tap it in the White/green. I'll give you updated
  17. I thought white as well but I'll check them with a meter before connecting any wire. Would you just tap the orange wire into it or add a fuse as well?
  18. Thanks guys. Was looking at some wiring diagram and brown/white seems to be from ignition switch to fuse box or white direct from ignition. But I'll check the White/green later if it's there I'll tap into it for my live feed. Ive check the blower cables couple of months ago following your very helpful write up. thanks Thierry
  19. Hi guys just received my heated seat kit. It's a waeco one. I'm going to fit them this evening. Trying to get her warm for the coming winter as all of you know the heater in the defenders are not great. The instructions doesn't makes sense (at least to me). from what I understand the red wire goes straight to the battery. The black one to the body The orange one have to go to the ignition feed. So anyone know which wire(colour) I could tap into from the fuse box the the gear stick? Or if someone has installed this before and done a different way would be happy to know how. The kit come with relays and switches so I don't think I need to add anything to the wiring loom! thanks Thierry
  20. Hi there

     

    sorry to bother you. Just a quick question. I know you did your oil cooler before on your D2. Just wondering if this gasket: http://m.ebay.ie/itm/271464110146

    is it for the centrifugal oil filter body to the engine block or is it for the screw type oil filter!!

    thanks  in advance for your help.

    thierry

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. Tibout

      Tibout

      Hi George 

       

      thanks for reply. Yeah I had a look at the rave yesterday. I've order couple of gasket. I have a bad leak in around tat area so going to change any gasket o ring. 

      Thanks for your help

      thierry

    3. Shackleton

      Shackleton

      Ok, that housing for the screw type filter can crack which is difficult to notice, but I've had one that when it cracked I could see the oil coming out of it with the engine running. So do check that.

    4. Tibout

      Tibout

      Thanks George. Turns out that the leak was coming from the centrifugal filter housing. The thread in one of them was damaged I think and wasn't sealing properly. So retapped it and and bit of sealant with the seal and looks like it's done the job. I've changed all the other gasket o ring and seal around that area just in case

  21. Hi guys just wondering if anyone has come across this td5 oil cooler gasket seal kit: http://m.ebay.ie/itm/Land-Rover-Discovery-TD5-Engine-Oil-Cooler-O-Rings-Gaskets-Seals-Kit-TD5EOCGK-/161858410196 seem to have all the bits you need but can't find a part number to see if any uk supplier would have them! If anyone by any chance have the part number for the kit I'll greatly appreciate. thanks Thierry
  22. Thanks Toby i'll have a go at it tomorrow. There's new injector washer and o ring when i rebuild the head. New air bleed valve and non return valve when i swap the new fuel filter housing. I reckon it could be one of the fuel line split or the Fuel pressure regulator itself.
  23. will it be the return from the engine towards the fuel filter? How did he sort out the problem. My fuel pressure regulator is the only thing i didn't replace there's no obvious leak.
  24. I thought the same and replace with a genuine one's and still the same. seems like the ecu kept the original fault in memory unless i restart the landy and it drives perfect after great power no issue at all. It only happens on the first start up
  25. yeah i do hear it it's not noisy or anything..
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