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Tibout

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Posts posted by Tibout

  1. Hi apology for delay replying. Been a bit busy fabricating one working from some photos and homemade drawings. I came up with a carrier which work I even made a little piston type thing which allow opening of the door with carrier together. Going to powder coat it and do the final fit. I have all my measurement if anyone want it to work something out. I'll post a pictures once the landy is respray and wheel carrier on. 

    image.jpeg

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  2. Hi guys very odd question. I'm looking to fabricate my own swing away spare wheel carrier. I want to make it similar to the mantra ones using tubes. 

    I have s rough idea how it's suppose to work but missing some critical measurement. 

    So would be great if anyone have one fitted and I could get the measurement from. 

    I know it's asking for loads but if I get the measurement of the actual carrier itself I could work out with my own measurement I'll get a better idea. The bracket and hinge are sorted. It would be a great project for the tech archive as well I think. 

    Thanks in advance

    Thierry

  3. I did rebuilt the FPR when I did the head and since then the Landy takes a bit longer to start first thing in the morning. Will crank for about 10sec then fire up with a little tap on the accelerator. Seems like air is getting in somewhere and sound like its around the FRP area. I've replace everything else apart from the FPR itself. I guess it would make sense to replace the whole unit this time

  4. Hi Les

    thanks for input. I've used loads of bearmach parts as well have no issue with them. Was just wondering as the FPR on the td5 is quite "fussy" prone to leak after replacement if good quality parts are not use. I don't want to do the job twice and worst buy the parts twice. I think I might go with the bearmach which would be £60 cheaper. I'll bit the bullet and I'll keep you update if it's worth it or not!

     

    thierry

  5. Hi guys 

    I'm sure it's been debate before but can't find it. Just wondering if anyone have experienced with Bearmach fuel pressure regulator? Are they reliable? Or would I better off get a genuine one.

    taking into consideration the genuine one is about £60 more expensive!!

    Any thoughts welcome.

    thanks

    Thierry

  6. Tbox have been leaking for a while now and going to have a go at it next weekend. It seems to be coming from the intermediate shaft probably the o ring. The landy is a 2004. I know there's 2 o ring one at the front and one at the back

    Are they both the same for a 2004 defender td5?

    Also while I'm here what other seal should I replace? ( bare in minds I'm not stripping the box I'm doing it the bodge way!)

    I wanted to replace the bolts with studs as mention somewhere it makes realigning the tbox with gearbox easier without damaging the seal between them.

    any advice more than wellcome

    Thanks

    Thierry

     

  7. Hi while removing the radio off my 2004 defender td5 I've noticed couple of spare connections. Just wondering if one of them could be for heated front windscreen as I was thinking putting one for winter and would be great if I didn't have to get a loom for it.

    Here's a pic it's not great but hope someone could shed some lights!

    thanks

    Thierry

    image.jpeg

  8. Hi guys

    Installed the heater kit today and wiring it using the kit loom. I've used the switch provided and will change to a carling switch on the dash. I've tap it with the green/white wire and this only power the unit when it ignition is on as suggested. they Live feed come straight from the battery.

    The only annoying thing is that even on the off position the red light on the switch stay on!!! But the pad doesn't heat up in that position which is good!! 

    I've put the switch on the cover of the fuse box it's discreet and tidy. It's very warm on position 2 i guess that would be just for heating up then put on position 1

     

  9. Hi guys just received my heated seat kit. It's a waeco one. I'm going to fit them this evening. Trying to get her warm for the coming winter as all of you know the heater in the defenders are not great. 

    The instructions doesn't makes sense (at least to me).

    from what I understand the red wire goes straight to the battery.

    The black one to the body

    The orange one have to go to the ignition feed. So anyone know which wire(colour) I could tap into from the fuse box the the gear stick? Or if someone has installed this before and done a different way would be happy to know how. 

    The kit come with relays and switches so I don't think I need to add anything to the wiring loom!

     

    thanks

    Thierry

  10. Hi

    Have been having some issue I can't get my head around lately.

    So the Landy is slighty a struggle to start up first thing in the morning. When she start up there's loads of white blueish smoke and throttle response is not great it misfire a bit. There's a lack of power as well.

    The thing is if I switch her off and back on she come back to life very responsive.

    Works I've done recently ( with all new head set bits)

    straight through exhaust

    decat pipe

    recon turbo

    new intercooler

    new radiator

    EGR removed

    Machined exhaust manifold ( it was warp)

    new Fuel filter housing with new filter

    Full service oil and filter ( axle, transfer box, gearbox)

    The start up was worst before changing the fuel filter housing.

    to get her going first thing is while i crank her i just give a little tap on the throttle.

    Any ideas why if i switch her off then back on again she comes into life?

    It feels like the ecu have a fault in memory and then it clear the faults when switching back on.

    There's no faults showing on nanocom and all the readings looks ago.

    Any ideas will be great.

    Thanks

    Thierry

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