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Tibout

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Everything posted by Tibout

  1. Hi Have been having some issue I can't get my head around lately. So the Landy is slighty a struggle to start up first thing in the morning. When she start up there's loads of white blueish smoke and throttle response is not great it misfire a bit. There's a lack of power as well. The thing is if I switch her off and back on she come back to life very responsive. Works I've done recently ( with all new head set bits) straight through exhaust decat pipe recon turbo new intercooler new radiator EGR removed Machined exhaust manifold ( it was warp) new Fuel filter housing with new filter Full service oil and filter ( axle, transfer box, gearbox) The start up was worst before changing the fuel filter housing. to get her going first thing is while i crank her i just give a little tap on the throttle. Any ideas why if i switch her off then back on again she comes into life? It feels like the ecu have a fault in memory and then it clear the faults when switching back on. There's no faults showing on nanocom and all the readings looks ago. Any ideas will be great. Thanks Thierry
  2. I've managed to read the file and save it on the SD card but can't read it on my macbook as i have no software to support this type of format. I've sent it to Alive tuning anyway. Is there a special program to read my map o my laptop? I was on the phone with Alive tuning and they said I should'nt have any problem writing the new map on but I know where you're coming from I would have prefer to send my ecu to them but i'm base in ireland.
  3. I've had a look yeah just wanted to make sure just in case something goes wrong. I was in touch with Alive and they said the nanocom will guide me through it shouldn't be any issue. Just wondering when I'm reading my original map if it save automatically on the sd card?
  4. Hi guys Just want to get sone advice. Been on the phone with Alive tuning and want to remap my 2004 defender td5. I was told I can read the map on my ecu using a nanocom save it on an sd card then email it to them then they'll send a new map which I could write back on the ecu. Anyone have a procedure of how to read and transfer then transferring the new map to the ecu. I know it sound simple but I don't want to mess the ecu in anyway so better be safe than sorry. I know the battery voltage should stay constant so would connecting a battery charger to my battery help while the nanocom is doing its work? Thanks for any help Thierry
  5. Thanks for your reply. Heard some people just doesn't run their landy without one at all its that's ok. i would think that the engine won't run to its optimal performance!!! I could be wrong
  6. Hi there just want your opinions. So landy is a 2004 defender td5. After a full head rebuild new turbo radiator intercooler. She started fine after diesel bleeding when for a drive and seem very low on power the next morning it struggle to start when she did she kind of shakes a lot before idling nice after. So disconnect the MAP sensor first and she went into limp mode no power at all connect it back up and disconnect MAF sensor and she's much better more responsive. I've clean both sensor with brake cleaner but have to leave MAF unplugged to get good performance. I'm going to order a genuine one but is it ok to drive her with it disconnected I've read that some people have just cancel it all together. I have blank the egr and decat pipe and straight through exhaust. Any ideas welcome Thanks Thierry
  7. Hi I found a left hand drill bit works great for removing broken bolt. drill a pilot hole first and then get your left hand drill bit. make sure your drill is in reverse and make sure you don't drill too far... Thierry
  8. I've took the head apart and drop it to a machine shop to get it pressure tested so hopefully will get some good news will keep you guys posted Thierry
  9. Just a quick question: The workshop manual said to keep the lash adjuster upright position. I done intend to remove it but I'm going to clean the old gasket off the head was going to put it upside down will that affect the lash adjuster? Should I remove it first and store it upright? Thanks Thierry
  10. Here's the tool I made to lock the crank. 6.5mm harden drill bit through measure how far it goes in and use some jb well to lock it. Didn't want to put a tack on it just in case the thread got damage. It case anyone is stuck without the tool pin
  11. You oils see the plastic dowel which broke in the head!!
  12. Lifted the head off today and check with a straight steel ruler and doesn't looks to bad! Had a torch under the ruler to see if the light pass through looks OK to me. Bare in mind I haven't scrape any of the remaining gasket. The head gasket looks good to me. Water marks only around the water ports. Just wondering how to post a few photos on here
  13. I'm getting the full top head gasket which includes washer for injectors etc. I will lift the head later take a picture of it as well post it here see what some of you guys might think if it's not warp of course.
  14. I wasn't sure Les but was hoping it was the gasket. I've asked a couple of machine shop here but I'm not sure they have much experience with the td5 engine compare to the Uk. They've all told me they've done it before and skim it no bother. Not sure if it's just to get the business in!! I'll stick a steel ruler on it tonight and see how she looks. It turns out to be a 10p engine in a late td5 (2004) which makes me think that the swap the engine before!!
  15. Some update on the landy. .So I unbolted the head yesterday to specify procedure and at some stage I could hear cracking noise from the head which hit me a bit worried!! Is that normal or something bad just happened? I'm still in between minds of getting it skim or not 150k miles on it. As for locking the flywheel I've made a lock pin as I couldn't find mine tool I bought. Basically I drill a hole in the centre of the plug which bolt on the bell housing to access the flywheel and had a has drill bit to the correct size through it and fixed with jb weld so it doesn't drop out( I'll take a photo and post it here) I'll get head gasket set at turner they seem to be good! The big question is to skim or not. Oil level never rise and no coolant in oil when I drain it! Would like to hear your thoughts on rematch I I g the head or not! Thanks Waiting on a friend to give me a hand to lift it tonight so I guess I'll know better of the state of the head surface Thierry
  16. Hi radiator and intercooler both crack so they are out. Water out as well didn't look very healthy. Thermostat see to be stuck so all that going to get replaced. Head is off as well for HG replacement in between minds about getting the head skim or not Thierry
  17. Thanks Neil pictures are worth a lot I was looking in the wrong hole!!! Probably the wading hole. When I had my last 300tdi the pin went in the wading hole I think. I'll have a go tonight and and see if all line up. Thierry
  18. Neil great advice thanks Makes a bit more sense now. I have the cam lock. But don't have the crank in the flywheel lock I had a look in under the landy flywheel area where you should insert the lock pin. I can see where the pin actually lock in it but the flywheel doesn't seem to be in line with the hole in the bell housing so the pin goes straight. ( if it makes sense what I'm trying to explain)!!! I had a look at the link you send me it's very good and did see that the cam chain stay in place. I don't think I have a crack head I'm assuming that if I did have one I would be getting a bit of diesel in the head and oil!!! I'm I right? It's a 15p engine so metal dowel should be in already but I'm still going to replace the old ones. I'm thinking of just clean and replace the gasket. Can you tell me where is the switch you said to remove to get the oil pressure please? Thanks again Thierry
  19. Hey guys thanks for the advice. So head is ready to be unbolted and lift out but before i just wanted to double check a few stuffs with you: 1. I have the cam lock and cable tie the chain to the sprocket. will the chain not drop down and out of the crank below? Is there a way of keeping it up? 2 .(Using the timing pins is the way of getting the timing right when you put it back together. When it's all back on and tightened down, before putting the chain tensioner back in, put the leading edge of the chain (Right hand side of the engine as you look from the front) under tension when you tighten the three bolts that fix it to the Cam. It's amazing what a difference this makes to the running.. A few degrees is very noticeable) Neil Sorry for being a bit thick!!! but how do you put the chain under tension? do you put back the allen key which i think id the guide for the chain!!! 3. Do i need to skim the head? I know this topic has been discussed loads but I've heard some people just replace the head gasket without skimming the head as it's not suppose to be re-machined!! will i just get away with the gasket. I'll keep you guys update with my progress and if i hit some problems. It's going to be longer than i thought!! so far things i need to do to get her going : head gasket exhaust re-machined ( i have the upgraded studs) Turbo recondition Front crank seal new radiator and intercooler (both crack and were falling apart when i was removing them) water pump,thermostat and expansion tank both front swivel as balls are pitted and leaking bad I'm sure i forgot a few more. Hopefully i'll get it done before the irish summer is over Thierry
  20. In the process of replacing my head gasket as been running hot last week. Radiator was leaking. Going to replace the water pump as well. As she has 150k miles on it I think replacing the head gasket now while I'm at it makes sense!! Just wondering before you remove the chain tensioner, you alingn the 2 coloured link to the notch!! Then do you just cable tie it in position before removing the front cover etc? Any pointers will be very helpful. Thanks Thierry
  21. Had a look at the landy today and turns out that the radiator was leaking and the intercooler core was falling apart same as the radiator. Full of oil in the intercooler. Looking like both will need replacement. I took the thermostat out you guys know how i could check it? i've but it in hot water to see if it's open or not but no much seems to be happening. Will replace the water pump as well just in case the turbo was leaking quiet a bit of oil so had a look at the blades by grabbing it to see if there's any play and indeed there was loads of play!!! As its a new landy to me not sure of the history....but any advice on the turbo. While i'm at it, i thinking of replacing the head gasket as i drove it on low coolant quiet a bit hot yesterday you guys think its a good idea? Thanks
  22. Thanks Matthew for reply. I'm going to have a look later on. Where is the pressure valve located so I can check it out? Thanks
  23. Hi guys, driving up on motor way cruising at 100km/h when suddenly the temp gauge went in the red then back to normal.. so i stop over had a look under the bonnet and was low on coolant. waited a while then top it up and away i go after a while it did the same but this time smell of over heating engine and start to lose power then got power again. feel like it was restricted and a bit of misfiring. The temp guage went all the way to cold. Stop the landy and started her after a while temp was back to normal. was only a few mile from home just crawl back home. have'nt check coolant level again as it's still hot. 1. could it be the thermostat? 2. water pump gone? ( i was getting heat in the cabin all the time) 3. could i have done damage driving with the engine over heating!!! there was no smoke under the bonnet but could see a bit of steam coming through the expansion tank and a hiss sound. Or any idea you guys might have!!! I'll have a proper look in the morning to have a better idea. but if any of you guys have any advice i'll greatly appreciate it. Landy is a 2004 td5. Thierry
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