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simonb

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About simonb

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    Firsdown, nr Salisbury, Wilts

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  1. Attach the self cancelling collar to the back of the Defender style wheel using self tapping screws. That's how I've done it on my series 3. You may need to gently bend the indicator stalk to clear the wheel, as it has less offset than the original wheel - so its closer to the bulkhead and hence the stalk.
  2. Just renewed the historic/free taxation on the series 3. At the point for checking a valid MOT, the website stated words to the effect - this vehicle is over 40 years old and may be exempt from a MOT if not substantially altered in the last 30 years. There was then a self declaration option to accept the statement or decline - if vehicle has been modified for instance.
  3. Have you tried sealing the rear seam of the roof panel that is over the front seats/doors and the main flat panel of the roof and the curved sides? On mine, this was the cause of leaks into the gutters on the inside which would shoot water forward to the windscreen pillars on cornering/braking. You won't see the leaks as they run down inside the top hat strengthening sections and into the folds of the gutters.
  4. There is form V112/V112G which is self declaration for exemption, you should only need this if taxing in person at a Post Office. My tax renewal says "This vehicle may need an appropriate test". Last year it said "valid MOT".
  5. You don't need to apply, but I would suggest changing your vehicle taxation class to "Historic" if you haven't already. By changing status to Historic, then at least the DVLA computer should know that the vehicle is over 40 years old and could be exempt from requiring a MOT. It appears not all traffic police are aware of the rules. I was stopped in my tax exempt Series 3 late at night 6 months ago, for having no MOT. I had to explain the rule change to them. After some checking, a cursory glance over my vehicle, and exchange of details, I was allowed to go. My free tax is due for renewal at the end of the month, hopefully the DVLA computer won't say no....
  6. That is correct, there is more water flow round the cylinders and head nearest the water pump, so the ports are restricted/smaller (at the front), with the bigger holes furthest from the water pump.
  7. My LR Genuine Parts service exchange block (happened before I got it 20 years ago, guess the timing belt went with the previous owner), is a silver grey colour.
  8. The retaining rod isn't M16 or 9/16", its only about 10mm in diameter and much smaller than a wheel stud. Just tried mine and a propshaft nut fits the thread, which I believe makes it 3/8" UNF.
  9. This week in Lidl.... is a 6/12V smart battery charger for just £13.99 and with a 3 year guarantee. It has modes for de-sulphation, quick charge to 80% and trickle, just like the excellent Ctek chargers. I have one of the latter, but have bought one of the Lidl ones as well. It says its suitable for batteries up to 120Ah. Leads look a decent length. Will see how it performs..
  10. No, they are supposed to retain the contacts in the connector. In your 2nd image, it looks discoloured from overheating.
  11. The loom should have originally been clipped inside the wing to prevent chaffing - at least it was on my 1995 300Tdi.
  12. Another vote for a couple of cable ties...
  13. My Genuine Parts one measured almost 6mm thick - stuck to bulkhead but windscreen not yet fitted.
  14. 12v to light green /black wire at the pump end, should make washer pump run. Normally no relay for pump (but wiring could have been modified, to only wash when wiping 😮), but take the supply from the battery via a fuse, for testing, not the stalk as there is a relay in the supply to the stalk. Or use the plain green wire at the stalk which should be a 12v live switched from the ignition and connect to LGB wire.
  15. Housings are fine. Buy new seal retainers, they aren't expensive.
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