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simonb

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About simonb

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    Firsdown, nr Salisbury, Wilts

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  1. They do match, you just have spiral stripes on one set of wires and straight stripes on the other. Match green/yellow straight to green yellow spiral etc.
  2. With the drums back on, clamp (using a proper hose clamp), both front flexi hoses and the rear axle hose. Press brake pedal, if no air in the system, it should be rock solid and have very little movement. Release one of the front hose clamps and repeat. You should still have a firm pedal but with a bit more movement than before. If not, the trouble is in that corner. If all is well, release other front hose clamp. If the pedal suddenly sinks, that corner is where your problem is. Once you have the front ok, release clamp on rear hose. If pedal now sinks, problem is at the rear. Another think that will cause pedal sink, is a seized wheel cylinder. As the wheel with the seized cylinder won't be doing any braking, the other wheels have to do more and you may well find much more pedal is needed. Using my method above, will highlight if you have a potentially seized/sticking cylinder. Finally when bleeding the brakes, use fast/swift pedal movements to get the fluid moving more rapidly - rather than slow movements. Don't push the pedal to the floor, go about half way.
  3. I've done this, twice. Take floor and tunnel out. Remove top cover of gearbox and remove all selectors/forks. They just wiggle out. Be careful you don't loose the detent ball bearings. You will need long nose pliers and some dental floss (!). The 3rd/4th synchro is visible and the new springs can be fed in using pliers. Tie dental floss round each spring and attach the other end outside the gearbox. This saves the tedium of fishing them out through the bottom of the box when you inevitably drop them! IIRC its easier to have the syncro in neutral, slide one end of the spring in and then flick the hub along to get the other end in. The first spring is easier than the last. 🙄 Cut the dental floss when the spring is in place. You will need plenty of patience, but if you are lucky, it will actually take longer to get the floor out and the selector forks out. Use grease to stick the detent balls in place when you fit the top cover. The springs seem to last a lot longer if you make slow changes 3 to 4 and back, pausing in neutral (can keep clutch depressed) before going into the other gear. Its probably quick shifts that fracture the springs.
  4. I have done several in the past but as Ralph mentions you need the right pullers. The cost of new ones complete with pulleys has dropped so much now that it is hardly worth the faff. However still willing to do them for forum members if you can get them to me.
  5. Yep 6 degrees BTDC on unleaded (checked with a strobe) works well.
  6. Have you done a compression test to rule out the head gasket?
  7. Yes, that's also correct and the tell tale that the shoes are the wrong way round. On the leading shoe, at the fixed pivot there is less force than at the cylinder. For the trailing, there is more force at the pivot and the least force of all at the cylinder. Hence as an economy measure the linings are cut short at the "low force" points.
  8. Be better if you photographed them flat on the ground - so each pair makes a circle, but the ones with the longer linings will the leading shoes. The leading shoe at the front of the axle, will have the lining closer to the cylinder and shorter at the pivot end. The rear shoe will have more lining at the pivot and less at the cylinder end.
  9. Attach the self cancelling collar to the back of the Defender style wheel using self tapping screws. That's how I've done it on my series 3. You may need to gently bend the indicator stalk to clear the wheel, as it has less offset than the original wheel - so its closer to the bulkhead and hence the stalk.
  10. Just renewed the historic/free taxation on the series 3. At the point for checking a valid MOT, the website stated words to the effect - this vehicle is over 40 years old and may be exempt from a MOT if not substantially altered in the last 30 years. There was then a self declaration option to accept the statement or decline - if vehicle has been modified for instance.
  11. Have you tried sealing the rear seam of the roof panel that is over the front seats/doors and the main flat panel of the roof and the curved sides? On mine, this was the cause of leaks into the gutters on the inside which would shoot water forward to the windscreen pillars on cornering/braking. You won't see the leaks as they run down inside the top hat strengthening sections and into the folds of the gutters.
  12. There is form V112/V112G which is self declaration for exemption, you should only need this if taxing in person at a Post Office. My tax renewal says "This vehicle may need an appropriate test". Last year it said "valid MOT".
  13. You don't need to apply, but I would suggest changing your vehicle taxation class to "Historic" if you haven't already. By changing status to Historic, then at least the DVLA computer should know that the vehicle is over 40 years old and could be exempt from requiring a MOT. It appears not all traffic police are aware of the rules. I was stopped in my tax exempt Series 3 late at night 6 months ago, for having no MOT. I had to explain the rule change to them. After some checking, a cursory glance over my vehicle, and exchange of details, I was allowed to go. My free tax is due for renewal at the end of the month, hopefully the DVLA computer won't say no....
  14. That is correct, there is more water flow round the cylinders and head nearest the water pump, so the ports are restricted/smaller (at the front), with the bigger holes furthest from the water pump.
  15. My LR Genuine Parts service exchange block (happened before I got it 20 years ago, guess the timing belt went with the previous owner), is a silver grey colour.
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