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simonb

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    Firsdown, nr Salisbury, Wilts

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  1. Almost certainly a bad earth connection somewhere. Start by running a new temporary earth lead to the back of the gauge direct from the battery an see what happens.
  2. OAT coolant tends to eat away at the solder on traditional copper/brass rads. Fine for ally/plastic rads as their construction doesn't use solder.
  3. Also look at where the aluminium housing that hold the power steering pump/alternator etc bolts to the engine block at the top near the head. The joint there often leaks. It's known as the P gasket - look on line/search the forum, plenty of information available on how to fix. Replacing the water pump requires the gasket to be changed. A new pump usually comes with a new gasket. If it's just the water pump gasket, then change the pump as well.
  4. Indeed. Gauge and sender need to be matched, otherwise they will read wrong. Go aftermarket, more accurate anyway.
  5. 300Tdi, the dipstick location - and its yellow, and the cast elbow for the top hose/thermostat housing. Ignore the HRCxxxx numbers, they are casting refernces and won't be found in the parts catalogues.
  6. The quality of current thermostats is best described as poor, I always test them like you have before fitting. Many doen't open till near boiling point. Try a QH one, or one from a motor factors, rather than a LR "specialist". Radiator caps for a series 3 are equally bad, most new ones seem to leak - the length of the spindle is no where near to what an old genuine one is.
  7. I'm pretty sure they did. Ashcrofts site will confirm.
  8. Yes, there is a plastic coating, but as it wears or water, dirt gets in, it lifts from the metal, and then jams it up. Short fix, remove the plastic, put back together and see if there is any rotational play.
  9. The tensioner with the shoulders was used with the early crank sprocket which like on the 200TDi, had no shoulders. This tensioner had a thick washer behind it and the timing case, and used a long bolt and washer to secure it. Early in the life of the 300TDi, engines were failing with belts rubbing against the timing cover. The tensioner was redesigned without shoulders, and the crank sprocket got shoulders added. The washer thick washer behind the tensioner was deleted and a short bolt used to fix it without the front washer. This largerly fixed the problem, although the injection pump bracket was also redesigned and the modified part used on some engines. No 300Tdis should be using the original parts - they should always have a shoulded crank sprocket and plain tensioner.
  10. You have a bad earth somewhere - the give away is that the fuel gauge shoots up. Try a new earth direct to the battery and see what happens. Does the fuel gauge still shoot up with your "new" earth?
  11. There should be 6 diodes not 3. You can test it off the vehicle but you will need something like a 1Kw rating electric motor to spin it with sufficient torque and speed to produce an output. Forget using a drill to do this. Plus you will need arrange pulleys and belts. Best way to check is with it still in the vehicle and by measuring battery voltage with engine running. Even with engine at idle you should get at least 14v at the battery. This should not drop when you switch on the headlights and blower fan. If the voltage drops more than 0.5v, then the alternator is faulty.
  12. Noting you are not in the UK... the bearings have universal part numbers on them, so should be available locally. The only other thing to replace is the combined brush box/regulator - again should be available to you locally from an auto electrician or the interweb. The bearings may need a small puller to get them off the rotor shaft - plenty of videos on Youtube, the LR alternator is generic/similar to many others of that vintage in construction and repair. Also check what the price locally (and on internet) is for a complete new one, they have come down drastically in price over the last few years, and often don't need an exchange unit for a web sale. If you still want to rebuild your old one you can then do it at your leisure and use it as a spare.
  13. A 55W fluorescent tube loses around another 30W in the ballast if it's magnetic one. Where as a "55W" (if it really did draw 55W) LED tube would have no additional losses. The LED tube will also have increased Lumen output compared to the fluorescent.
  14. Possibly some/one of the balls have dropped out of the top or bottom bearing races which then had moved the entire race axially. Bit difficult to test if it isn't all together, but does the input shaft move from lock to lock ok? When I did mine it was a right PITA keeping all of the balls in the top race, even when packing them with grease. From what I remember, I fitted the top race and the balls first with lots of grease. Then held that race tight against the worm with a couple of jubilee clips on the shaft. Then feed that in through the top of the box without the clamp casting attached and got the recirculating balls and worm nut in. Then fitted the bottom race/balls again with loads of grease and then fitted end cap and shims. Finally carefully remove the jubilee clips and fit tube clamp casting to other end. I held the whole assembly in a big vice as you need about 3 pairs of hands otherwise.
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