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About simonb

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    Firsdown, nr Salisbury, Wilts

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  1. The first link, is a bulb in a holder, sometimes these don't fit very well to the plastic PCB on the cluster. You are better with the bare push in bulb - last link. You should have bulbs that can be removed from the holders, but there is no guarantee a previous owner hasn't swapped to the integral type. The LEDs should fit but don't expect a massive transformation. Don't use a LED for the indicator or charge warning lights.
  2. 2 speed motors have red, blue and yellow wires on the motor. If its a single speed, there is no yellow - if I remember correctly. Self parking is done by the park switch on the motor.
  3. If its a TD5 dash with the later push switch, you need to change the existing relay on the rear door and swap it out for the intermittent one. Years ago I used to do a conversion kit available via a well known auction site. As such I don't have the actual circuit diagram. PM me and when I'm back home after the wknd I'll see if I have still have any left.
  4. Its not simple replacing the rotary switch with a toggle one, as to park, the switch shorts out the motor, when you turn it off and the motor park switch cuts the permanent 12V feed at the end of the stroke. The Lucas ON/ON won't do this. What switch did you have before the new one and why can't you reuse the old one?
  5. 24/0.2 0.75mm2 which is rated to 14 Amps The coil only draws around 5A.
  6. For the back ones, my LR parts book says 587628 1.75" dia - the big one, and 525497 15/16" dia. Side ones in block 518272 or 597586 - doesn't specify the difference.
  7. Land Rover build tolerances - spacing of bulkhead and seatbox.
  8. The plugs should be taper thread, so they only need to be nipped up with light finger pressure - you will feel them tighten as they are wound in. No need to "torque them up" tight.
  9. Have you compared the length of the new part to the old one? Have you slackened off all the mountings of the old exhaust to see if old and new will then fit together?
  10. Yes, for a series 2, the cover should look like this: https://www.terraintechparts.com/products/oem-clutch-cover-for-land-rover-series-br-0631g?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjuff75yO6QIVjbh3Ch1kugdxEAQYAyABEgL-W_D_BwE That's why there is such a big gap between the bearing and the cover. The series 3 cover does away with that big ring in the centre.
  11. Is the battery warning light on the dash lit when the engine is off but IGN switched ON? The answer should be yes. If the light isn't on, then check the bulb hasn't blown. Does the battery light go out when the engine is running? If it does, then there is a fault in the alternator if the battery voltage with the engine running isn't around 14v. If you only get around 12.6- 12.8v with the engine running, then that's just battery voltage.
  12. simonb

    timing marks

    There do seem to be more timing marks than normal on the pulley, but I suspect they are like this: Providing you are 3 or 6 degrees BTDC, you will be fine, best to set with the engine running (vac pipe plugged) as this will even out the backlash and wear in the distributor and its drive. When you have it about right, the idle speed will sound more even, and may speed up a bit. Too far either way and it will slow down, too much ATDC and it probably won't even start.
  13. Black white is +ve feed to the element. Brown is battery perm live, white is an ignition switched live. White/red is starter solenoid - probably used by the relay to make sure the element isn't on when engine is cranking. What fault are you trying to fix?
  14. simonb

    timing marks

    The pointer in the last photo is at 4.5 degrees ATDC, try setting the timing dynamically so that the pointer aligns with the top line, with the vacuuum pipe removed from the dizzy and and its end blocked off.
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