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About simonb

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    Firsdown, nr Salisbury, Wilts

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  1. Yes, for a series 2, the cover should look like this: https://www.terraintechparts.com/products/oem-clutch-cover-for-land-rover-series-br-0631g?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjuff75yO6QIVjbh3Ch1kugdxEAQYAyABEgL-W_D_BwE That's why there is such a big gap between the bearing and the cover. The series 3 cover does away with that big ring in the centre.
  2. Correct no spacers, just the seal.
  3. Is the battery warning light on the dash lit when the engine is off but IGN switched ON? The answer should be yes. If the light isn't on, then check the bulb hasn't blown. Does the battery light go out when the engine is running? If it does, then there is a fault in the alternator if the battery voltage with the engine running isn't around 14v. If you only get around 12.6- 12.8v with the engine running, then that's just battery voltage.
  4. simonb

    timing marks

    There do seem to be more timing marks than normal on the pulley, but I suspect they are like this: Providing you are 3 or 6 degrees BTDC, you will be fine, best to set with the engine running (vac pipe plugged) as this will even out the backlash and wear in the distributor and its drive. When you have it about right, the idle speed will sound more even, and may speed up a bit. Too far either way and it will slow down, too much ATDC and it probably won't even start.
  5. Black white is +ve feed to the element. Brown is battery perm live, white is an ignition switched live. White/red is starter solenoid - probably used by the relay to make sure the element isn't on when engine is cranking. What fault are you trying to fix?
  6. simonb

    timing marks

    The pointer in the last photo is at 4.5 degrees ATDC, try setting the timing dynamically so that the pointer aligns with the top line, with the vacuuum pipe removed from the dizzy and and its end blocked off.
  7. Check you have an ignition switched 12v feed on the green wire at the motor.
  8. You can actually re-solder it. Use a standard 25W electrical soldering iron, and clean up the tag and rear window strip with wire wool. Tin both the components and then solder together. The glass is toughened and designed to get warm - you will only need a few seconds to heat up thin metal strip on the glass. Epoxy, even metal loaded is unlikely to work as they won't be conductive enough.
  9. Yes, if you break out the green domes entirely, the white tubes that hold the bulb holders will be loose as they screw onto the domes. Either drill a hole through the dome, but with the speedo face facing up, so the swarf falls out. Or, break out the domes, do away with the tubes and use a grommet in the hole in the back of the speedo to hold the lamp holder in place.
  10. You want a Thermotop C or D which aren't CAN bus controlled. Confusingly they can be marked Z-C-D see image. Plenty available 2nd hand on Eblag. You can get all the other parts like fuel pumps, exhaust silencers and timers on line, as are fitting instructions and wiring diagrams. A generic 12V timer might do - someone posted a link in the Eberspacher post recently- they only need a permanent live, switched live and 12v to make the heater go. Plenty of stuff on Google.
  11. All a bit rich except for perhaps the far RHS one on the top image. The electrode and insulator nose should be a light sand colour with just a thin coating of deposits. What was the last MOT emission readings - even a Series 3 needs to be below 4.5% CO and 1200ppm HC. A well tuned example should be well in - mine was 0.36% and 223ppm for instance. Have you got the Zenith carb from the Series 3, or the carb from the 90?
  12. The upper spring was correct, before you changed it. It doesn't link the 2 shoes together. You probably have a seized wheel cylinder.
  13. simonb

    timing marks

    On diagram 0878 and IRA55A, 6 degrees BTDC is the left most peak, align the crank pulley notch with that. 3 degrees before is middle peak and TDC is right peak. 6 degrees BTDC should be fine for 7 or 8.1 compression engines, on unleaded (UK RON 95). If setting dynamically, i.e with engine running and a strobe light, remove vacuum pipe from dizzy and block the end with a small bolt. Make sure rpm is under 650. Before you do anything with the timing, make sure the contact set gap is correct, if you have a dwell meter, check dynamically - should be 52-57 degrees dwell for a Lucas 45D4 type dizzy. Ignore diagram 0693 which is the 6 cylinder.
  14. Blow out armature and case with an airline. Degrease the bendix/spigot gear with suitable solvent. Allow to dry. DO NOT LUBRICATE. You can get new brush sets for under a tenner. In your picture, at 1 o'clock, is the brass stud for 1 set - the new ones come all attached to a new stud so you just swap them over. The other set attach to the winding at 7 o'clock. You will need a 100W soldering iron to remove the old ones and solder in the new. Or, if you have decent auto electrician near you, take the body to them and they will do it for you. Doubt if the cost will be more than £30 parts and labour. Add a few drops of oil to the top and bottom bearing bushes on reassembly.
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