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    Firsdown, nr Salisbury, Wilts

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  1. Spacer goes between the door frame and skin, I would put one washer on the outside of the skin of the door so nut clamps on it, and the other between the frame and the motor. Rubber grommet goes through hole in skin. Top hat rubber washer goes over end of motor shaft, then wiper arm, then small nut.
  2. simonb


    When you say that.. can you get your series 3 cover to line up with 3 empty holes or 1 dowel and 2 empty holes in the flywheel? If you can, then you just need more dowels. The dowels and their cover holes are to a tighter tolerance fit than the bolt holes, so it ensures a more accurate fit. Bit like why cylinder heads have dowels to locate them.
  3. simonb


    The plate is defo correct has it has the coarse splines. There should be 3 dowels on the flywheel not 2 this maybe the issue as you maybe trying to line the wrong holes up , I don't think there is a difference to a series 2 flywheel, but no doubt someone will say if there is. The series 3 cover is 1/2" larger diameter than a series 2, but I thought the dowels and bolt centres were the same. Take the driven plate out entirely and then try fitting the cover. That will give you the correct alignment for the cover. Are there spare dowel holes in the flywheel?
  4. simonb


    Google the parts you have and select images/shopping. It should then come up with something, even old finished ebay listings and the prices. Your alternator has to be worth £150 at least and you know the new price of your "wrong" clutch parts. If you sell the dizzy complete with leads then again that's got to be another 3 figure sum at least - they are no longer available from most spares places and yours is A1 new condition.
  5. simonb


    You need series 3 clutch components to match your gearbox, the ones on your new engine won't work with your box. So, clutch cover 576557, plate FRC2297, clutch arm 576137 - probably cost a fortune new, so look online for a used one, they don't wear out and FRC4679 release bearing.
  6. Nope I think you are correct, hence why we now have Teflon (swivel) balls. 🤨 The shiny bits of aircraft landing gear legs (the oleo/damper part) used to be chromed but I don't think they are (allowed to be) now. I guess its the same for the hydraulic ram shafts on the big yellow diggers from Mr Bamford....
  7. According to the interweb, https://www.galvinfo.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/8/2017/05/GalvInfoNote_2_6.pdf the larger spangles are due to impurities in the zinc particularly lead. Nowadays the amount of lead is much reduced or even non existent which results in the finish many have commented on. Neither my 90 or S3 chassis have much spangle, however the new council lamp post at the end of the drive has some, but its nothing like the the "old stuff" - applies to lamp posts and chassis!
  8. A decent chassis black - look on line, or If you want something really tough 2 pack epoxy paint - bit like the glue, you mix the main paint with a hardener. Bit of pain mixing small quantities for small parts but great for large items like axles. TBH, if you have done the prep, zinc primed and red oxide(d), then that's the main protection. Do not use Hammerite under any circumstances.
  9. Buy new shocks as the top covers are rusted through. New U bolts and nylocs as these are a critical suspension part. Shock lower mounts can be cleaned up with wire brush attachment in angle grinder. Then use an anti rust solution. Zinc paint (can get this in a rattle can or better quality from Witham paints in a tin) as primer, then a couple of coats of red oxide and top coat x2 of your choice. Takes a bit of time but worth doing. I would top coat you new shocks as the paint tends to be very thin. Top shock bolts, reuse, clean up threads and shanks using angle grinder as above. Coat with grease over entire bolt, refit.
  10. The only thing you haven't changed is the gauge... How quickly does the gauge go from cold to overheat? If you just leave the engine idling, does the gauge go to the red? If its a matter of minutes, then its more likely to be a duff gauge. With all that cast iron and water in the engine, there is no way the engine can produce enough heat from cold to make the gauge go to red in less than 15 to 20 minutes (or actually at all if everything is working as it should). Does the gauge very slowly go to red, or rapidly? The latter would suggest an electrical fault. What temperature does the IR thermometer show on the thermostat housing? Are you doubly sure you haven't got an airlock - do the heater hoses both get hot? From cold, leave the cap off the radiator, does the same thing happen? Does the radiator get evenly hot from top to bottom when the thermostat opens?
  11. What an absolute idiot - they must have hammered on the pulley to the crank - its a sliding fit, and then jammed the nut on. I would gently file away the remains of the Woodruff key so its flush with the crank, then remove the timing gear. Then you maybe able to grip the undamaged part of the key beneath the timing gear and wiggle the remains out. If that fails, then drill a series of small holes in the bit you have filled flush, that should release the pressure enough on the sides of the key to get it out. Probably needs a new pulley as well.
  12. MTC3180 lower, 330202 upper, 330203, vertical (long one) available various places if you Google them. Use sealant between them them door frame and the felt channels to prevent as much water as possible getting into the door top bottom frame.. Yours are good enough to reuse if you flatten out the pulled holes. Doesn't matter if you drill new holes through them - the window channel will hide that.
  13. Or these LED clear lens ones: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231698206606 Rover MGF (and Discovery 200/300) wing indicators have the same smaller "square style" wing hole as Defender 200/300, but the Eblag item allows you to "upgrade" from the small square repeaters of those models to the larger Td5/Puma rectangular side repeater. The TD5/Puma ones aren't a direct fit in the earlier models as the Td5/Puma wing hole is much larger.
  14. The pin needs to go in the hole, otherwise it won't work properly. From what I remember, as the oil heats up, the pin extends further which has the effect of moving the body backwards which together with the washers around it, allows the port to be uncovered allowing oil through the cooler. Do you have a Vernier calliper, (or check against twist drills) to see how much bigger the pin on the new one is?
  15. Your fault finding process is all correct. Sounds like the winding inside the temp gauge has broken. What happens if you earth the non supply side of the gauge? Replacements are available but not cheap. The temp section can be removed from the main dial and you should be able to undo the nuts holding the terminals to the body and remove the "can" to see inside. Nothing to loose and you might see a break in the wire inside at the terminals. If the break is in the coil itself then it probably is a new/used one as a replacement.
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