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About simonb

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    Firsdown, nr Salisbury, Wilts

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  1. Knock the mudshield off and refit it with the other side to the diff, you should then be fine.
  2. Remove steering lock. Outer tube should pull off casting. Top bearing will stay in top of outer tube, its only a slightly snug fit and should easily pull/drift out, once inner shaft is out - it comes out from the bottom, a tap with a hide mallet should remove it. If you do a search on the forum, there was a thread about 18 months ago where I replied and gave hints of out to get it all back to together again - getting the ball bearings to stay in, is not simple.
  3. It probably a vent, the return usually has a pipe on a plate screwed to the tank. If it is a return, your fuel heater pump will suck from the least resistive path, which is fuel out of the tank, not the lift pump line. My Wabasto is plumbed into the return to the tank, never had any problems, with or without the engine running. The heater draws only a tiny amount of fuel. You could probably tap into the feed into the lift pump if you have no other tank connections, the heater manufacturers don't seem to recommend this though, but can't remember why, it maybe because the heater pump i
  4. A return normally has a long internal tube to discharge at the bottom of the tank to prevent the return fuel creating foam in the tank. You should be ok to use it as a pick up. Bit of clear hose and a gentle suck will tell you if the bottom end of it is below the fuel surface....If you just get a mouth full of vapour its a vent and not a return.
  5. The fuse block can be purchased new as can the terminals inside it. VWP don't do it, but I did find it online a few years back. I can't remember where, but try Google and look for images, it wasn't expensive. Alternatively get a good used one from a breaker. I used that approach on my series 3, so it has a Defender fuse box with blade fuses to replace the original 4 glass fuses. You can then join your new loom to the cut off wires by soldering and heatshrink. Most of the external wiring won't be worth keeping, water gets in and the copper turns black. Just replace all of that. Engine
  6. Mark the nut and flange with a dab of paint. Undo nut, when putting it back torque back up until paint marks align. As the others have said already on the Rover diff, there isn't a crush tube/shims to worry about. Another way of getting the nut off on your own (easier with 2 as someone can apply the footbrake), is to fit socket and breaker bar to nut, fit trolley jack under breaker bar handle part way along and take up slack with the jack. Belt the far end of the breaker bar with your favourite lump hammer. Nut will crack off. Works everytime.
  7. Yes run a heavy gauge 30a (can't remember the wire gauge but it will be in VWP, its only about 3mm in diameter) or so earth cable in your chassis loom, then branch that off to both sides at the rear. All of your individual lights on each corner and things like rear wiper/heated window if you have them, can connect to those earth wires. The single earth will easily take all of that load. Do the same for each front wing - one earth per wing. Headlight/sides/indicators in each wing can share the same earth. I then added a 2nd earth wire in the left wing for heater fan, washer pumps and horn
  8. Been there, done this twice - 2 vehicles. Use Superseal/econseal. Use the standard factory wire colours, work from the manual wiring diagram. Provide earth returns to each "appliance". These can be commoned up at left/right/front/rear corners. This is much more reliable than using body/chassis earths and cuts down corrosion. Work in simple steps - chassis loom to offside rear, then loom across to nearside rear and trailer socket. Front wing looms, left and right. Left can include heater and washer pumps and horn. Internal dash loom for wiper etc. Engine bay loom. Sheath e
  9. The first link, is a bulb in a holder, sometimes these don't fit very well to the plastic PCB on the cluster. You are better with the bare push in bulb - last link. You should have bulbs that can be removed from the holders, but there is no guarantee a previous owner hasn't swapped to the integral type. The LEDs should fit but don't expect a massive transformation. Don't use a LED for the indicator or charge warning lights.
  10. 2 speed motors have red, blue and yellow wires on the motor. If its a single speed, there is no yellow - if I remember correctly. Self parking is done by the park switch on the motor.
  11. If its a TD5 dash with the later push switch, you need to change the existing relay on the rear door and swap it out for the intermittent one. Years ago I used to do a conversion kit available via a well known auction site. As such I don't have the actual circuit diagram. PM me and when I'm back home after the wknd I'll see if I have still have any left.
  12. Its not simple replacing the rotary switch with a toggle one, as to park, the switch shorts out the motor, when you turn it off and the motor park switch cuts the permanent 12V feed at the end of the stroke. The Lucas ON/ON won't do this. What switch did you have before the new one and why can't you reuse the old one?
  13. 24/0.2 0.75mm2 which is rated to 14 Amps The coil only draws around 5A.
  14. For the back ones, my LR parts book says 587628 1.75" dia - the big one, and 525497 15/16" dia. Side ones in block 518272 or 597586 - doesn't specify the difference.
  15. Land Rover build tolerances - spacing of bulkhead and seatbox.
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