simonb
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Posts posted by simonb
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OAT coolant tends to eat away at the solder on traditional copper/brass rads. Fine for ally/plastic rads as their construction doesn't use solder.
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On 10/29/2023 at 7:55 AM, Mutley said:
Hi guys and gals,
It's been a while since i've posted and been on here which generally means all is well!?!......... So as i'm here, guess what???.......
Yesterday after having been out in the Landy (about a 6 mile trip), i parked up for 30mins and when i came back to it i noticed a reddish pool of liquid under the front of the Landy and fluid dripping from the front near side!?!
After lifting the bonnet and tracing the flow of fluid best i could, it appears to be coming from the WATER PUMP!?!.......
So my question is, is it Water pump Fail???...... Or GASKET fail???....... Will be replacing BOTH as a matter of course. My other question is what has caused the fail? Is it an age thing or do i need to be checking other areas too???
This is a 1995 DEFENDER 90 "M" Reg 300Tdi
Any advice on Removal and renewal of Water Pump any pros and cons would be appreciated.
Cheers all, Andy
Also look at where the aluminium housing that hold the power steering pump/alternator etc bolts to the engine block at the top near the head. The joint there often leaks. It's known as the P gasket - look on line/search the forum, plenty of information available on how to fix.
Replacing the water pump requires the gasket to be changed. A new pump usually comes with a new gasket. If it's just the water pump gasket, then change the pump as well.
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Indeed. Gauge and sender need to be matched, otherwise they will read wrong. Go aftermarket, more accurate anyway.
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300Tdi, the dipstick location - and its yellow, and the cast elbow for the top hose/thermostat housing. Ignore the HRCxxxx numbers, they are casting refernces and won't be found in the parts catalogues.
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The quality of current thermostats is best described as poor, I always test them like you have before fitting. Many doen't open till near boiling point. Try a QH one, or one from a motor factors, rather than a LR "specialist". Radiator caps for a series 3 are equally bad, most new ones seem to leak - the length of the spindle is no where near to what an old genuine one is.
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2 hours ago, landroversforever said:
That was going to be my next question! Looks like a defender R380 then! To my knowledge they didn't do an R380 defender spec V8 box?
I'm pretty sure they did. Ashcrofts site will confirm.
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Yes, there is a plastic coating, but as it wears or water, dirt gets in, it lifts from the metal, and then jams it up. Short fix, remove the plastic, put back together and see if there is any rotational play.
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The tensioner with the shoulders was used with the early crank sprocket which like on the 200TDi, had no shoulders. This tensioner had a thick washer behind it and the timing case, and used a long bolt and washer to secure it.
Early in the life of the 300TDi, engines were failing with belts rubbing against the timing cover.
The tensioner was redesigned without shoulders, and the crank sprocket got shoulders added. The washer thick washer behind the tensioner was deleted and a short bolt used to fix it without the front washer. This largerly fixed the problem, although the injection pump bracket was also redesigned and the modified part used on some engines.
No 300Tdis should be using the original parts - they should always have a shoulded crank sprocket and plain tensioner.
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You have a bad earth somewhere - the give away is that the fuel gauge shoots up. Try a new earth direct to the battery and see what happens. Does the fuel gauge still shoot up with your "new" earth?
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There should be 6 diodes not 3. You can test it off the vehicle but you will need something like a 1Kw rating electric motor to spin it with sufficient torque and speed to produce an output. Forget using a drill to do this. Plus you will need arrange pulleys and belts.
Best way to check is with it still in the vehicle and by measuring battery voltage with engine running. Even with engine at idle you should get at least 14v at the battery. This should not drop when you switch on the headlights and blower fan. If the voltage drops more than 0.5v, then the alternator is faulty.
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And what stops anyone else walking off with it?
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Noting you are not in the UK... the bearings have universal part numbers on them, so should be available locally. The only other thing to replace is the combined brush box/regulator - again should be available to you locally from an auto electrician or the interweb.
The bearings may need a small puller to get them off the rotor shaft - plenty of videos on Youtube, the LR alternator is generic/similar to many others of that vintage in construction and repair.
Also check what the price locally (and on internet) is for a complete new one, they have come down drastically in price over the last few years, and often don't need an exchange unit for a web sale. If you still want to rebuild your old one you can then do it at your leisure and use it as a spare.
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A 55W fluorescent tube loses around another 30W in the ballast if it's magnetic one. Where as a "55W" (if it really did draw 55W) LED tube would have no additional losses. The LED tube will also have increased Lumen output compared to the fluorescent.
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Possibly some/one of the balls have dropped out of the top or bottom bearing races which then had moved the entire race axially. Bit difficult to test if it isn't all together, but does the input shaft move from lock to lock ok?
When I did mine it was a right PITA keeping all of the balls in the top race, even when packing them with grease. From what I remember, I fitted the top race and the balls first with lots of grease. Then held that race tight against the worm with a couple of jubilee clips on the shaft. Then feed that in through the top of the box without the clamp casting attached and got the recirculating balls and worm nut in. Then fitted the bottom race/balls again with loads of grease and then fitted end cap and shims. Finally carefully remove the jubilee clips and fit tube clamp casting to other end. I held the whole assembly in a big vice as you need about 3 pairs of hands otherwise.
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Personally I would trim 10-15mm or so off that top hose where it connects to the thermostat housing. That would allow the 90 degree bend to be a more natural shape and allow some of that "squash" at the elbow to be eased. That will increase flow through the hose.
Series water pumps aren't very efficient and don't shift much water especially at low revs/idling. The top hose will be too hot to hold - 85-90C but the bottom should be just cool enough to touch. Mind the fan! best to check from underneath the front cross member and touch the bottom tank of the radiator.
BTW, the fan will do practically nothing useful without the cowl being fitted to the radiator. That will massively improve cooling, that should be sufficient for UK weather, but you may find you need the metal cowl section as well which fits on the battery side of the engine on days over 25C.
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WSM says 25-55 psi at normal operating temp, so it is only just about passable.
Have you changed/checked the oil thermostat which sits in the filter head where the cooler hoses connect? Just a thought that it if it was stuck open it maybe permanently providing a lower resistance path even with cold oil. It would be more noticeable at idle than at higher revs.
Easiest way is to check that the oil cooler hoses remain cold when the coolant thermostat first opens. Hand/touch test. Or feel the outside of the oil filter and the hoses. If the hoses heat up at the same rate as the filter, then the oil thermostat is stuck open.
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Do you mean by renew - re-cover it?
To sort out the air distribution, first check the cable isn't seized. Disconnect the inner of the cable at the lever end and see if you can move the inner with a pair of pliers. You may have to remove the entire lower dash to access the rod that links the flaps as they are inside. The mechanism often rusts and stops moving.
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The hook rod goes round the float. You need to join that rod to the sender rod, but they will probably need adjustment so that the float drops to the bottom of the tank, but doesn't foul on the side wall, when the tank is full. Use a bog standard electrical choc block (other suppliers are available).
Cut one segment off and remove it from the plastic. You can then use that to join both rods - overlap them through the connector to start with. Small torch to look into the tank and some thread round the rod and trial and error is the way to go. Once you have got the rod length right, you can trim off the excess.
They used to come all assembled with a fixed rod length.....
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Try this:
http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/Lucaswirecode.htm
Plenty more colour decoders on the Interweb for Lucas/British vintage vehicles.
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Or use stainless nuts and a plain and spring washer. Use plenty of copper grease or a suitable anti-seize compound. No constant moisture there so dissimilar metals is not an issue. I would however use a 2nd nut to cover the remaining exposed stud. Despite it all getting hot, the threads do tend to "fur" - probably as they are hot and react with the air.
I wouldn't use brass as they are much softer, and are more likely to strip the thread in the nut.
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Yes, fill the master, you should get about 4 or 5 full pedal stokes before it empties, but keep an eye on the level, you don't want it to empty.
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Land Rover clutches are a bit heavier than a modern car, but shouldn't be too heavy. You did use a small amount of grease on the clutch driven plate splines before you fitted the gearbox?
On the brakes, clamp both front hoses. Get the rears bled first. Then clamp the rear hose and unclamp and bleed each front wheel. Once you have one front done, clamp that hose and do the other. Adjust the shoes hard up against the drum before you start to bled, and adjust after bleeding and before the final push rod adjustment.
You don't say what model you series is, single front wheel cylinders aren't usually a problem but twin cylinder/11" fronts can be a pain. Plenty of posts on the forum about those. My SWB has that brake set up, clamping the hoses and pushing the brake pedal down swiftly works better to shift the air, than slow pedal stokes.
Set the push rod nuts approximately to get started and then once bled, adjust properly. The adjustment of the push rod can make a huge difference to the feel of the brakes once bled. If its incorrect, the pedal will sink to the floor quickly or need a couple of pumps to feel hard. Once correct, a single push down should give a hard pedal about halfway down its travel.
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You need to fill with fluid and bleed, then set the pedal height and free play on the rods after that. The reason is that the master cylinders and their seals won't be in the final "rest" position unless there is fluid in the system.
The 1.5mm free play is best measured by using a pair of pliers pulling/pushing on the rod after the pedal height has been set - and system bleed. Slacken off the push rod nuts to do this. You are looking to set a bit of slack in the rod so it moves inwards about 1.5mm when the pedal is at rest, before you feel the rod touching the back and moving the cylinder.
There needs to be some slack to allow the master cylinder to re-cupricate. If you don't, the master cylinder won't fully release the wheel cylinders and the brakes will bind.
On the clutch, if pedal height and free play aren't correct, there won't be enough throw on the slave cylinder and the clutch plate won't disengage fully.
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Yes, its ally rather than steel of the original, it just pop rivets in place - they supply the rivets.
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Temperature Gauge
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Almost certainly a bad earth connection somewhere. Start by running a new temporary earth lead to the back of the gauge direct from the battery an see what happens.