simonb

YRM do replacement sections for a series seatbox. I replaced the storage box under the passenger seat on my Series 3 using YRM parts. They also do replacement sides - as these often corrode along the bottom and back edges.

The basic dimensions are the same - length and width and it will probably pick up the correct fixings in the sills under the doors and probably rear tub. Hole for tunnel bit is completely different (it varies with Defender gearbox type) - but larger than a series, so would probably fit over a series tunnel and gearbox but leave a gap. Handbrake fixings/hole is different to a series. Don't you have a "non series" engine/gearbox in yours?

The diff lock mechanism/spindle has 3 positions/clicks but only 2 are actually used. You need to find the correct 2 out of 3 using the advice given in the post before mine. No need to have engine running or even main gearbox in gear.

The only way to tell is to take the gearbox off again and check the splines on the clutch plate and input shaft. Or put it all back together and check the clutch works - can you select all the gears with the engine running?

Simple check, voltmeter across battery, engine running, headlights on. Do you get 14V or more on the voltmeter? If not your alternator isn't charging. Was your 12.7V measured with the engine running - if so then the alternator is definitely not working properly.

Don't force it, you will damage the splines on the input shaft or in the clutch driven plate, and then the clutch won't work. Once all properly lined up, it should go together easily, sliding together in one smooth movement.

BCH 06604 (stamped in centre) -Bearing type/number 21TR and 37707A Regulator part numbers 0490 - Regulator/alternator date stamp - wk 4 1990 Its a 45A machine, 65A variants have only bolt/stud connectors for the battery. 45A machines always have the spade connector/plug.

I used Distributor Dr for my series 3 - he rebuilt the original. Not cheap but can't fault the quality - far better option than fitting a new Chinese pattern part.

If its not reading 14v, ideally 14.6v with engine running and electrics off, you have a faulty alternator. My bet is that the brushes are worn for the armature. Its a simple fix, plenty of videos on Youtube and the parts are pennies. On a 300Tdi type alternator, the whole brush pack and regulator are changed as one unit. Pre 300Tdi, they are usually separate, also for a 100A type.

You could look for a 2nd hand Defender 300Tdi h/brake drum and back plate. It bolts directly to the rear face of the t/box, there is no bracket at that end for the cable - it exits out the bottom of the back plate and goes to the seat box and h/brake lever.

The switch will come apart, you may have to drill out the rivets, however it will ping out a load of springs and small plastic parts, so beware. You then need to get them all back in place before you bolt it back together. You may find the copper contact pads are burnt out when you get it apart, so a new switch maybe the only option.

My series 3 is 1975 manufactured but ex military and demobbed in 1982, so was X plated. When in the 1990s I got an age related plate, I got the BHM certificate and was able to post this to my local Vehicle Licensing Office (Portsmouth) and they did the paperwork change and issued a new age related plate and returned the certificate. From what I remember they then sent the old V5 to Swansea with the new reg details. A few weeks later, Swansea issued a new V5. I believe the majority of local offices have now closed, so you may have no choice to deal with Swansea direct. The PO won't do this for you. The PO will however be able to change the taxation class to Historic to qualify for free road tax. I did this at my local village PO about 6 years ago. Again can't remember the exact details, but the V5 now says Historic as well, so I think the PO changing the taxation class, triggers a new V5 to be issued.

15A will be fine for wiper and the wash pump. The actual running current for the wiper is only around 5A, but will be more as it starts on a dry screen but this is only for a fraction of a second until it moves. Washer pumps are only a couple of amps, and certainly a lot less than a wiper motor.

You may need to remove the frame that runs from the bulkhead to the rear of the seatbox/door pillar - under the door edge of the floor.

Spacer goes between the door frame and skin, I would put one washer on the outside of the skin of the door so nut clamps on it, and the other between the frame and the motor. Rubber grommet goes through hole in skin. Top hat rubber washer goes over end of motor shaft, then wiper arm, then small nut.

When you say that.. can you get your series 3 cover to line up with 3 empty holes or 1 dowel and 2 empty holes in the flywheel? If you can, then you just need more dowels. The dowels and their cover holes are to a tighter tolerance fit than the bolt holes, so it ensures a more accurate fit. Bit like why cylinder heads have dowels to locate them.

The plate is defo correct has it has the coarse splines. There should be 3 dowels on the flywheel not 2 this maybe the issue as you maybe trying to line the wrong holes up , I don't think there is a difference to a series 2 flywheel, but no doubt someone will say if there is. The series 3 cover is 1/2" larger diameter than a series 2, but I thought the dowels and bolt centres were the same. Take the driven plate out entirely and then try fitting the cover. That will give you the correct alignment for the cover. Are there spare dowel holes in the flywheel?

Google the parts you have and select images/shopping. It should then come up with something, even old finished ebay listings and the prices. Your alternator has to be worth £150 at least and you know the new price of your "wrong" clutch parts. If you sell the dizzy complete with leads then again that's got to be another 3 figure sum at least - they are no longer available from most spares places and yours is A1 new condition.

You need series 3 clutch components to match your gearbox, the ones on your new engine won't work with your box. So, clutch cover 576557, plate FRC2297, clutch arm 576137 - probably cost a fortune new, so look online for a used one, they don't wear out and FRC4679 release bearing.

Nope I think you are correct, hence why we now have Teflon (swivel) balls. 🤨 The shiny bits of aircraft landing gear legs (the oleo/damper part) used to be chromed but I don't think they are (allowed to be) now. I guess its the same for the hydraulic ram shafts on the big yellow diggers from Mr Bamford....

According to the interweb, https://www.galvinfo.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/8/2017/05/GalvInfoNote_2_6.pdf the larger spangles are due to impurities in the zinc particularly lead. Nowadays the amount of lead is much reduced or even non existent which results in the finish many have commented on. Neither my 90 or S3 chassis have much spangle, however the new council lamp post at the end of the drive has some, but its nothing like the the "old stuff" - applies to lamp posts and chassis!

A decent chassis black - look on line, or If you want something really tough 2 pack epoxy paint - bit like the glue, you mix the main paint with a hardener. Bit of pain mixing small quantities for small parts but great for large items like axles. TBH, if you have done the prep, zinc primed and red oxide(d), then that's the main protection. Do not use Hammerite under any circumstances.

Buy new shocks as the top covers are rusted through. New U bolts and nylocs as these are a critical suspension part. Shock lower mounts can be cleaned up with wire brush attachment in angle grinder. Then use an anti rust solution. Zinc paint (can get this in a rattle can or better quality from Witham paints in a tin) as primer, then a couple of coats of red oxide and top coat x2 of your choice. Takes a bit of time but worth doing. I would top coat you new shocks as the paint tends to be very thin. Top shock bolts, reuse, clean up threads and shanks using angle grinder as above. Coat with grease over entire bolt, refit.

The only thing you haven't changed is the gauge... How quickly does the gauge go from cold to overheat? If you just leave the engine idling, does the gauge go to the red? If its a matter of minutes, then its more likely to be a duff gauge. With all that cast iron and water in the engine, there is no way the engine can produce enough heat from cold to make the gauge go to red in less than 15 to 20 minutes (or actually at all if everything is working as it should). Does the gauge very slowly go to red, or rapidly? The latter would suggest an electrical fault. What temperature does the IR thermometer show on the thermostat housing? Are you doubly sure you haven't got an airlock - do the heater hoses both get hot? From cold, leave the cap off the radiator, does the same thing happen? Does the radiator get evenly hot from top to bottom when the thermostat opens?

What an absolute idiot - they must have hammered on the pulley to the crank - its a sliding fit, and then jammed the nut on. I would gently file away the remains of the Woodruff key so its flush with the crank, then remove the timing gear. Then you maybe able to grip the undamaged part of the key beneath the timing gear and wiggle the remains out. If that fails, then drill a series of small holes in the bit you have filled flush, that should release the pressure enough on the sides of the key to get it out. Probably needs a new pulley as well.