simonb

MTC3180 lower, 330202 upper, 330203, vertical (long one) available various places if you Google them. Use sealant between them them door frame and the felt channels to prevent as much water as possible getting into the door top bottom frame.. Yours are good enough to reuse if you flatten out the pulled holes. Doesn't matter if you drill new holes through them - the window channel will hide that.

Or these LED clear lens ones: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231698206606 Rover MGF (and Discovery 200/300) wing indicators have the same smaller "square style" wing hole as Defender 200/300, but the Eblag item allows you to "upgrade" from the small square repeaters of those models to the larger Td5/Puma rectangular side repeater. The TD5/Puma ones aren't a direct fit in the earlier models as the Td5/Puma wing hole is much larger.

The pin needs to go in the hole, otherwise it won't work properly. From what I remember, as the oil heats up, the pin extends further which has the effect of moving the body backwards which together with the washers around it, allows the port to be uncovered allowing oil through the cooler. Do you have a Vernier calliper, (or check against twist drills) to see how much bigger the pin on the new one is?

Your fault finding process is all correct. Sounds like the winding inside the temp gauge has broken. What happens if you earth the non supply side of the gauge? Replacements are available but not cheap. The temp section can be removed from the main dial and you should be able to undo the nuts holding the terminals to the body and remove the "can" to see inside. Nothing to loose and you might see a break in the wire inside at the terminals. If the break is in the coil itself then it probably is a new/used one as a replacement.

As other's have said, have you actually changed the propshaft(s) UJs? They are the cheapest bit of the drive train and difficult to test by hand - unless completely seized. It's only an hour job per shaft to change the UJs. Check also the sliding joints. Then if you haven't already checked: engine/gearbox mounts, exhaust not touching chassis, A Frame and axle bushes, shock absorber rubbers, drive flanges at wheels for wear, and excessive diff wear. Also check all the wheel bearings, jack wheel up, grasp at top and bottom and push/pull the wheel, and then repeat at 3&9 o clock, there should be no movement. Is your vehicle disc braked on the rear? Check the pads are secure in the calliper, with all the clips in place and there isn't wear in the calliper which allows the pads to move slightly circumferentially around the disc. If drum braked at rear, take the drums off and check nothing is adrift - stones/mud jamming up the shoes.

Something else which is odd, in your tables, there is no change between going from key 0 to key 1. The only change is from key 1 to key 2. Are the barrel lock and switch properly aligned? It seems all one click out. Just found this: I think you switch says 162SA as well. So the wiring is correct, and I doubt all 3 switches are duff, and given what I said about key positions, I think that is your problem. The acid test to check you glow plug wiring is to use a set of jump leads to connect to the red brown bypassing the ignition switch entirely, and see if that makes starting easier.

Swap the red/brown and brown wires over, and see what happens.

I very much doubt all the switches are duff. Just because there are only 2 big terminals - doesn't mean you have the right feed on the right one. The switch internals aren't electrically symmetrical so if you have the feed on what is actually an output, the measurements on the terminals won't be correct - which does seem indeed to be the case - on all 3 switches. Hmmm.... The only common thing is they don't appear to be working, so you have nothing to loose from trying what I have suggested. Swap the feed on to terminal one (or what ever the other big terminal is labelled) and then see what happens. This is the only thing you haven't tried. Report back and then we can go from there. Monkie has already mentioned his switch may be different. Can you post a terminal view of your genuine LR PRC2735 without any wires attached?

Looking at the LUCAS diagram from Ralph, battery (brown wire) should be connected to terminal 1, which has a big end where it is riveted to the body and is at 11 o clock when the terminals are facing you. Your table suggests you have battery connected to terminal 5, which is at 5 o clock. What happens if you move the battery connection to 11 o'clock and fill in a new table with voltages? If that then works then, red brown needs to go onto term 5, 5 o clock. white black term 2, 2 o clock white red, term 3, 9 o clock The white blue which you mention is an ammeter, I would leave off for the moment, as it depends on where it is measuring amps, on how to connect it. They are never really a good idea as its more high powered cabling behind the dash, and a voltmeter tells you more. Get the switch wiring sorted and we can advise on the white blue later.

It will physically bolt up but Isn't the bell housing length different on them as well (Disco longer)? This makes the gear stick problem even worse - it ends up in seatbox between the front seats. On the Defender box, the shifter mechanism is positioned over the main gearbox casing (the black steel ribbed section). On the Discovery the shifter is positioned behind the main gearbox casing and over the ally rear casting from which the output shaft protrudes - so further back - towards the rear. This image from Ashcroft's shows a Discovery box. https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/manual-gearboxes/r-380.html

Ah, that it explains it. Yes just cut off my wiring and wire in place of the old one. The original resistor has to be air cooled, but the new one will be fine bolted on the outside of the casing, or you can fit it inside like the old one. I designed the kit to bypass the original resistor by fitting it to the switch, as normally its such a pain to get to the old one. Be worth painting your new mounting bracket with rich zinc paint. All the water from the windscreen/bonnet ends up running down over the footwell and the bracket which is why the end up like yours. Might be worth opening up the motor and checking the brushes and also the bearings whilst you are at it. The bearings are Olite bushes so should be "maintenance free" but the steel shaft can rust. A few drops of light oil into the bearing bushes can often work wonders.

Make sure you use plenty of cavity wax in the hollow box section beneath the bottom window channel - unless you have all ally door tops. Its best to do this before you fit the seals and glass as you can inject in via the window lock hole and rotate the door top so that it thoroughly covers all of the inside. Rain runs into this section from the glass and this is why series door tops rot out. Did mine when they were new 25 years ago and not sign of any rust/bubbling ally. Another hint if you intend to screw the channel in and you use the metal type, is to fit some self adhesive neoprene strip to the back of the channel. This prevents the underside sitting in water and allows the water to run more easily into the drain holes in the top of the box section of the door top.

That's my kit, and if you follow the instructions (like 100s of others have), it replaces the original resistor. Again if you followed the instructions, no soldering is required, the new resistor fits to the blower switch inside the speedo binnacle - to save all the faff of getting to the old one - and soldering. Since you have stripped out all of the old resistor, and disconnected the wiring, you will have to cut off all the wiring in the kit and attach your old wiring to the new resistor at the fan end. Just screw the resistor to the inside of that metal plate. FYI - for other forum members, even if your old resistor is burnt out, you can still fit the new one at the switch.

Its easier to bleed if you don't fit to bellhousing first. Connect hose, bolt a stout bar across the end, bolted through the mounting holes and let it all hang on the hose. The bleed nipple is then vertical and easy to get at. Once bled out, remove bar and fit cylinder to bell housing. You may need to reset pedal height to get the correct clutch operation - there was someone asking about this a few days back, with Western giving some advice.

Any standard 150/200mm speaker will do, plenty on line with built in tweeters. 4 to 8 Ohm will do, its not critical, even radios/amplifiers from 30 years ago aren't that fussy and modern ones won't mind. Speakers that size are usually 20-50W rating which will be fine. It's more down to how much you want to spend - shouldn't need to spend more than £30 on a budget set. They usually come with a bent metal U nut which you can clip over the headlining via the speaker hole and screw through into.

Yes, I saw that, my crank seemed to have a much more pronounced shoulder. I did try grease, wet paper towel and bread but nothing would shift it.

Key positions: 0= Off 1= accessories on 2= IGN ON Normal running 3= CRANK White orange is switched accessories on position 1. Normally this feeds the radio and bizarrely the heater fan on my 300Tdi. So terminal 1. White black according to Lucas codes should be distributor feed (and is on my series 3) but since you are diesel it could be the stop solenoid feed. So really needs to be on terminal 3, live when IGN on and CRANK. In you table don't worry about mv readings, they are 0v for all intents and purposes. Don't measure any voltages when cranking the engine. Pull off the white wire from the switch and re measure on the switch terminal, you should get battery voltage if the switch is ok. I suspect you are getting 9v and similarly 11v on the white red, as the vehicle circuits are loading the voltage. If you don't get battery voltage on these terminals with no wires attached, the switch is duff. Brown red - if glow plugs and no timer relay fitted, should only be at 12v in key position 3.

Doesn't work on a 300Tdi crank - the bearing sits against a shoulder inside the crank, so there is no rear exposed surface for the hydraulic action to work on. In the end after trying all the text book ways of doing it, I think collapsed it inwards using a brass drift. Being sintered, the bearing is softer than the brass.

Yes bolt to the chassis via clean metal. The engine and gearbox are connected to the chassis via rubber mounts so there is no earth return from battery to chassis. There are appliance earths attached to the bulkhead, so these need to return to the battery via the chassis. You can never have too many earths between the battery/chassis/engine/transmission.

As above, early versions had a thin groove in the ball on the end and standard O ring around the ball. Later Series 3, had a much wider green nylon sleeve and the end of the stick was made much smaller to accommodate the sleeve. The sleeve isn't available as a replacement part. It eventually wears out, falls off and jams the selectors. Been there done that. I ended up fitting an early gearstick with the O ring. The best fix, is to remove the lever, clean out the selector slots and pack well with thick grease. If you are lazy just add grease into the ends of the selector slots.

Check the throttle cable is adjusted properly - FIP lever fully open when pedal fully down - check with engine off obviously. The adjuster nut can wind itself back down the cable. Also check the air hose elbow from the outlet of the turbo isn't split - quite common.

They don't look too bad, yellow brush is always shorter. How are the bearings? Dry bearings more likely to cause the motor to run hot, than worn brushes.

Yes LH thread, - in other words it undoes the "wrong" way. Strike the end of the spanner with a hammer, which should shock the nut undone. Refit just finger tight otherwise you will never get it off again.

Do you have a conventional A frame ball joint on the rear axle, or is there what looks like a big hydraulic damper between the A frame and the chassis ? The latter is the self levelling unit.

Don't fit the sills till last, and the floor panels very last! As others say, attach the bulkhead feet bolts first, but keep the brackets to the front chassis rails slack. Sort out the door gap to the tub - parallel and also hinge side. Then tighten front chassis rail brackets, holes can be slotted further if needed, then fit sills with spacers on front rear end as/if needed (and fit floor panels).