simonb

overfuelling = black soot and high EGT = melted valves and pistons. White smoke on start up = coolant or condensation in cylinders. Tdis always give a puff of dark smoke on start, should then clear straight away. To get continuous white smoke more likely to be head gasket...

Another satisified customer. I've not got any of these on Eblag at the mo, so if any forum members want one, i'll sell direct, send a PM.

pm sent

Try item 4601323391........??

A133 is the Lucas part # (LucasRAlternator133), 80 is 80A, 0993 is the date code, wk 09 of 1993, 12v should be obvious.. 24229D is pobably a batch #...

The Racetech gauge and sender is only £30... Loads of people off here have them (inc me) and they are far better than the LR ones. Europa Specialist Parts do them.

PM sent, sounds like its gone duff so i'll swap it. Ur correct about the black/green

Doh, so it is! The Racetech one is almost identical in appearance except it has a 1/4" Lucar blade on it. Thanks Daan, thought it looked familar.... In which case it is NPT and either 24/28/32 tpi, can't remember which....

Right then chaps..... There are basically three kits. 1. Red Ford Relay, 4 pins, 1 thin wire from case 2. Lucas type relay, 6 pins i think, (i'm not at home at the mo) Both of these fit everything apart from Td5s with new dash. 3. Version of kit 2 for TD5 with new dash. Instructions aren't interchangeable! Once converted, no constant wipe EXCEPT when you wash. If you press wash with wipers off, it will automatically turn wipers on and they should do a double wipe. If u hold wash down, it will wipe continuously. JST has kit 1 ( TD5 without new dash). Delay on these is always 40 sec so the fact is doing 50 sounds like its got a fault, but first check you have got a "good" earth for your connections at the relay and the motor end. You don't need to alter any of the washer wiring. The thin green wire (from the relay) should be connected to the black green that goes to the washer pump. IIRC, the washer bit of the switch has a plain green going into one treminal ( the live bit) and the "switched " bit is the black/green - connect the relay thin green wire to this! The washer part of the switch looks like a table lamp push switch, its the rectangular bit rather than the round body bit. JST is correct in that applying 12v direct to the relay thin green wire makes the wipers "go constant". Hope this is now clear, if you need the full instructions PM with your address and I'll send you a set when I'm back in the UK on Thrs. Check all the motor connections are clean and bright as well, as they tend to corroded behind the trim panel. If it still doesn't work send the relay back in a jiffy bag (PM 4 my address) and i'll swap it. As I said the Ford ones should be no more than 40 secs delay. One more thing, i take it u can wash in the off position without the kit fitted?? If not, the 12v feed to the wash switch has been put on the wrong terminal at the factory by LR, and thats the problem!!

The new sender looks like a Racetech one which is 10mm fine thread pitch. You won't find an adapter to match the old one which is probably 1/2" NPT - the thread looks finer than a BSP fitting. Best bet is tapping a new hole. Note, standard 10mm tap will be coarse thread 1.25mm pitch, just do a Google for tap and die set suppliers or look in the back of Practical Classic mag - u can get single taps from these places for a few squid. U will need the taping drill as well, or someone on here probably has a copy of the engineering tables to look up the correct size drill. By the way the Racetech sender is a good enough fit to replace the LR sender on a 300Tdi, there is a slight thread pitch mismatch but its only noticeable after about 5 rows of thread.

Correct, diff ratio is the same at 3.54 but Discos have 1.2 ratio transfer vs 1.41 for all Tdi. V8 and 2.5 Petrol have 1.6 ratio transfers (red gear), so its all to do with tyre and diff ratio. Not sure what the green one was ever used for... FRC9339 is Disco auto which may have different transfer ratio, anyone know?

Never ever seen mine go past 90 degrees even when towing a car on a twin axle trailler on the motorway...

Cos round town the thermostat shuts as the engine does produce enough waste heat to have it open, especially at this time of the year!

Standard kit is for fuel /temp/speedo. Direct fit, no adapters/resistors/wiring changes. Can supply leds for other non standard gauges but u must send me a pic of bulb for those gauges to sidef@aol.com as they are usually different. Polarity sensitive so 50% chance of fitting them the right way round 1st time! Self coloured so doesn't matter if the lens is shot. Blue leds still give blue dials with green lens. new stock in with lower prices, as a rough guide about £2/led but email me with ur requirements. Non standard leds are a bit more...

yep blue or green (if u don't want too much bling) but still want to actually be able to see the gauges at night! send me a PM. I haven't got the sidelight leds though.

Correct, see my reply on int forum. With the Racetech gauge u can see the thermostat opening. Around town it will probably be shut. On my 300Tdi i can do 5-6 miles at 40mph before the thermostat opens, and thats with an engine preheater which heats the water to 60 degrees. Stuck in traffic u can see the gauge showing the thermostat has shut and then reopen as you get underway again. The water temp should never go past 90 degrees even flat out foot to floor up a motorway hill... The bleed pipe on the thermostat housing, the one on the rad and the combiner are clear aren't they???

1st of all check u have a good earth for the gauge and the engine. 84 degrees is about right for a Tdi in town traffic, should never go past 90 degrees even on the motorway. If the heater isn't hot it sort of proves its more a electrical problem. U did use the Racetech sender unit didn't u? The sender is ALWAYS matched to the gauge...

Dred, wrong ones for instrument lights! U need the type 501 led, ur pic is type 286 which fits the warning lights. Check ur lamp holders polarity anyway, I think LR wire up the old type back to front as well...

Yep thats the one. B4 u fit check the polarity of the lamp holder, its probably wired cap +ve and pip -ve, the leds need it the other way round so u will have to cut and rejoin the wires. The led bulbs tend to be longer which may cause problems if u have the 300Tdi on, combined holder and connector. The led may touch the back inside of the lens b4 the holder is in enough to twist and lock in. Try it and see....

Western is correct, took the headrests off when I recovered my seats, its highly unlikely u will get them out without undoing the back of the seat cover and use a screw driver to release the clips from the inside the headrest tube, even then its a right bl**dy s*d to do!

Its NPT, either 24 or 32 tpi (can't quite remember which) but i believe M10 fine is close match, well thats what my Racetech sender is....

90/110/Defender ones won't be listed on Eblag in the future, only Disco 200/300 ones. If any 1 wants sets of the former, PM me. Blue or green available, disco blue only.

There is a bloke on Ebay sellling a pipe that replaces the long metal heater pipe that goes across the cyl head. It has a coil round it to heat the washer water. Now we all now how long it takes a TDi to get up to temp......

deflan3 from DEFender, LANdrover and series 3, I've got a 90 and a series 3.....

Don't have leds for sale for side/stop. Indicators will need a load resistor to get correct flash rate. Do a search on Eblag for these leds. Note also that LR wire the lamp holders up with the cap + and the pip - on side and indicators, so u will need to cut the wires at the holder and swap over.