simonb

Align rear of tub with rear crossmember tabs. Your 3rd image with the seat belt anchor outrigger, there are square captive nuts (like used on 19" electronic racks) which go in the slots - or just use standard bolts with larger washers. On mine I needed a packer/spacer between the bracket and tub. I used a thick piece/slab of ally, drilled through to take the bolts. Loosely fit bulkhead and either measure width of doors or fit them to get the bulkhead in the right place and the door gap at the striker edge parallel from top to bottom. There is adjustment in the hinges, but if you still have a gap like your image, use washers/stout tube to ensure the bulkhead foot is spaced as needed. Then fit front wings and check bonnet striker/ rad panel is in the right place. The inner wings and rad panel all have adjustment for fore/aft position.

Remove rad/intercooler/front panel - its not a big job as you will have disconnected all the plumbing anyway. Much safer way of doing it as the lift is kept low and the engine only needs to be lifted far enough for the sump to clear the front cross member - not getting on for a metre higher to clear the wings. Doubt a 1 ton crane will lift that high enough over the wing under load and reach. Engine will easily come out between the wings from the front.

Knock the mudshield off and refit it with the other side to the diff, you should then be fine.

Remove steering lock. Outer tube should pull off casting. Top bearing will stay in top of outer tube, its only a slightly snug fit and should easily pull/drift out, once inner shaft is out - it comes out from the bottom, a tap with a hide mallet should remove it. If you do a search on the forum, there was a thread about 18 months ago where I replied and gave hints of out to get it all back to together again - getting the ball bearings to stay in, is not simple.

It probably a vent, the return usually has a pipe on a plate screwed to the tank. If it is a return, your fuel heater pump will suck from the least resistive path, which is fuel out of the tank, not the lift pump line. My Wabasto is plumbed into the return to the tank, never had any problems, with or without the engine running. The heater draws only a tiny amount of fuel. You could probably tap into the feed into the lift pump if you have no other tank connections, the heater manufacturers don't seem to recommend this though, but can't remember why, it maybe because the heater pump isn't strong enough to compete with the lift pump when the engine is running - the lift pump could in theory suck fuel out of the heater line, but again unlikely given its a much smaller bore than the pick up into the tank.

A return normally has a long internal tube to discharge at the bottom of the tank to prevent the return fuel creating foam in the tank. You should be ok to use it as a pick up. Bit of clear hose and a gentle suck will tell you if the bottom end of it is below the fuel surface....If you just get a mouth full of vapour its a vent and not a return.

The fuse block can be purchased new as can the terminals inside it. VWP don't do it, but I did find it online a few years back. I can't remember where, but try Google and look for images, it wasn't expensive. Alternatively get a good used one from a breaker. I used that approach on my series 3, so it has a Defender fuse box with blade fuses to replace the original 4 glass fuses. You can then join your new loom to the cut off wires by soldering and heatshrink. Most of the external wiring won't be worth keeping, water gets in and the copper turns black. Just replace all of that. Engine looms are normally ok, but check the insulation hasn't gone brittle. With a bit of luck, even bodged dash wiring can be repaired. The dash loom is the most complicated bit and has lots of common points in it. On both my series 3 and Defender, I picked the dash looms apart and rebuilt/modified them to my spec. Probably not recommended for the beginner!

Mark the nut and flange with a dab of paint. Undo nut, when putting it back torque back up until paint marks align. As the others have said already on the Rover diff, there isn't a crush tube/shims to worry about. Another way of getting the nut off on your own (easier with 2 as someone can apply the footbrake), is to fit socket and breaker bar to nut, fit trolley jack under breaker bar handle part way along and take up slack with the jack. Belt the far end of the breaker bar with your favourite lump hammer. Nut will crack off. Works everytime.

Yes run a heavy gauge 30a (can't remember the wire gauge but it will be in VWP, its only about 3mm in diameter) or so earth cable in your chassis loom, then branch that off to both sides at the rear. All of your individual lights on each corner and things like rear wiper/heated window if you have them, can connect to those earth wires. The single earth will easily take all of that load. Do the same for each front wing - one earth per wing. Headlight/sides/indicators in each wing can share the same earth. I then added a 2nd earth wire in the left wing for heater fan, washer pumps and horn - so three branches off it. Connect all of these earths direct to the battery negative terminal - or the main earth stud on the transfer box, which should also have an earth strap to the chassis and another earth cable (of at least the same size as the battery positive lead) back to the battery negative. I found it was easier using the gearbox earth stud as the main earth, rather than trying to get it all on the battery negative terminal itself. If you follow this approach, your electrics will never fail you again. Use superseal type connectors even internally such as for the rear light connections - much better than bullet connectors or 6mm male/female blade terminals. I reused the ignition switch/instrument loom as mine was unmolested and in good nick, if yours has been butchered/messed about with, then you may need to repair or replace. Personally I would repair bad sections splicing in new wires of the correct colour code, with soldered and heatshrunk joints. That will save you a lot of faff...

Been there, done this twice - 2 vehicles. Use Superseal/econseal. Use the standard factory wire colours, work from the manual wiring diagram. Provide earth returns to each "appliance". These can be commoned up at left/right/front/rear corners. This is much more reliable than using body/chassis earths and cuts down corrosion. Work in simple steps - chassis loom to offside rear, then loom across to nearside rear and trailer socket. Front wing looms, left and right. Left can include heater and washer pumps and horn. Internal dash loom for wiper etc. Engine bay loom. Sheath each part in proper pvc flexible tubing. Pull a draw string through first and then pull loom through. Get a proper crimp tool for the terminal connections. Solder them after crimping for double insurance. Buy plenty of wire over and above what you need. Don't fit connectors until loom is all in place and fixed neatly. Vehicle Wiring products have everything you will need. They show the cable sizes you need. Nothing much on a landy draws more than 10a except the start/charge wiring, although its worth going up a wire size for the headlights - makes them brighter. If you are feeling brave, convert to relay switching for the headlights - plenty of posts on here on how to do that.

The first link, is a bulb in a holder, sometimes these don't fit very well to the plastic PCB on the cluster. You are better with the bare push in bulb - last link. You should have bulbs that can be removed from the holders, but there is no guarantee a previous owner hasn't swapped to the integral type. The LEDs should fit but don't expect a massive transformation. Don't use a LED for the indicator or charge warning lights.

2 speed motors have red, blue and yellow wires on the motor. If its a single speed, there is no yellow - if I remember correctly. Self parking is done by the park switch on the motor.

If its a TD5 dash with the later push switch, you need to change the existing relay on the rear door and swap it out for the intermittent one. Years ago I used to do a conversion kit available via a well known auction site. As such I don't have the actual circuit diagram. PM me and when I'm back home after the wknd I'll see if I have still have any left.

Its not simple replacing the rotary switch with a toggle one, as to park, the switch shorts out the motor, when you turn it off and the motor park switch cuts the permanent 12V feed at the end of the stroke. The Lucas ON/ON won't do this. What switch did you have before the new one and why can't you reuse the old one?

24/0.2 0.75mm2 which is rated to 14 Amps The coil only draws around 5A.

For the back ones, my LR parts book says 587628 1.75" dia - the big one, and 525497 15/16" dia. Side ones in block 518272 or 597586 - doesn't specify the difference.

Land Rover build tolerances - spacing of bulkhead and seatbox.

The plugs should be taper thread, so they only need to be nipped up with light finger pressure - you will feel them tighten as they are wound in. No need to "torque them up" tight.

Have you compared the length of the new part to the old one? Have you slackened off all the mountings of the old exhaust to see if old and new will then fit together?

Yes, for a series 2, the cover should look like this: https://www.terraintechparts.com/products/oem-clutch-cover-for-land-rover-series-br-0631g?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjuff75yO6QIVjbh3Ch1kugdxEAQYAyABEgL-W_D_BwE That's why there is such a big gap between the bearing and the cover. The series 3 cover does away with that big ring in the centre.

Correct no spacers, just the seal.

Is the battery warning light on the dash lit when the engine is off but IGN switched ON? The answer should be yes. If the light isn't on, then check the bulb hasn't blown. Does the battery light go out when the engine is running? If it does, then there is a fault in the alternator if the battery voltage with the engine running isn't around 14v. If you only get around 12.6- 12.8v with the engine running, then that's just battery voltage.

There do seem to be more timing marks than normal on the pulley, but I suspect they are like this: Providing you are 3 or 6 degrees BTDC, you will be fine, best to set with the engine running (vac pipe plugged) as this will even out the backlash and wear in the distributor and its drive. When you have it about right, the idle speed will sound more even, and may speed up a bit. Too far either way and it will slow down, too much ATDC and it probably won't even start.

Black white is +ve feed to the element. Brown is battery perm live, white is an ignition switched live. White/red is starter solenoid - probably used by the relay to make sure the element isn't on when engine is cranking. What fault are you trying to fix?

The pointer in the last photo is at 4.5 degrees ATDC, try setting the timing dynamically so that the pointer aligns with the top line, with the vacuuum pipe removed from the dizzy and and its end blocked off.