simonb

Check you have an ignition switched 12v feed on the green wire at the motor.

You can actually re-solder it. Use a standard 25W electrical soldering iron, and clean up the tag and rear window strip with wire wool. Tin both the components and then solder together. The glass is toughened and designed to get warm - you will only need a few seconds to heat up thin metal strip on the glass. Epoxy, even metal loaded is unlikely to work as they won't be conductive enough.

Yes, if you break out the green domes entirely, the white tubes that hold the bulb holders will be loose as they screw onto the domes. Either drill a hole through the dome, but with the speedo face facing up, so the swarf falls out. Or, break out the domes, do away with the tubes and use a grommet in the hole in the back of the speedo to hold the lamp holder in place.

You want a Thermotop C or D which aren't CAN bus controlled. Confusingly they can be marked Z-C-D see image. Plenty available 2nd hand on Eblag. You can get all the other parts like fuel pumps, exhaust silencers and timers on line, as are fitting instructions and wiring diagrams. A generic 12V timer might do - someone posted a link in the Eberspacher post recently- they only need a permanent live, switched live and 12v to make the heater go. Plenty of stuff on Google.

All a bit rich except for perhaps the far RHS one on the top image. The electrode and insulator nose should be a light sand colour with just a thin coating of deposits. What was the last MOT emission readings - even a Series 3 needs to be below 4.5% CO and 1200ppm HC. A well tuned example should be well in - mine was 0.36% and 223ppm for instance. Have you got the Zenith carb from the Series 3, or the carb from the 90?

The upper spring was correct, before you changed it. It doesn't link the 2 shoes together. You probably have a seized wheel cylinder.

On diagram 0878 and IRA55A, 6 degrees BTDC is the left most peak, align the crank pulley notch with that. 3 degrees before is middle peak and TDC is right peak. 6 degrees BTDC should be fine for 7 or 8.1 compression engines, on unleaded (UK RON 95). If setting dynamically, i.e with engine running and a strobe light, remove vacuum pipe from dizzy and block the end with a small bolt. Make sure rpm is under 650. Before you do anything with the timing, make sure the contact set gap is correct, if you have a dwell meter, check dynamically - should be 52-57 degrees dwell for a Lucas 45D4 type dizzy. Ignore diagram 0693 which is the 6 cylinder.

Blow out armature and case with an airline. Degrease the bendix/spigot gear with suitable solvent. Allow to dry. DO NOT LUBRICATE. You can get new brush sets for under a tenner. In your picture, at 1 o'clock, is the brass stud for 1 set - the new ones come all attached to a new stud so you just swap them over. The other set attach to the winding at 7 o'clock. You will need a 100W soldering iron to remove the old ones and solder in the new. Or, if you have decent auto electrician near you, take the body to them and they will do it for you. Doubt if the cost will be more than £30 parts and labour. Add a few drops of oil to the top and bottom bearing bushes on reassembly.

yes

It's been a while since I had one of these apart but I don't think the front casting easily comes away from the stator. On the 65A type (and the 45A type on 2.5 NA/TD) the stator can be easily removed. I think on these its more firmly attached. It probably is doable but would need all the back of and the stator unsoldered from the rectifier pack. I'd be tempted to send it back...

When I've done mine in the past, I've just ensured the locking pin is in the flywheel and with the old belt still on, slackened the central camshaft nut. It isn't stupid tight like the crankshaft pulley bolt. Check timing marks on all 3 sprockets are aligned. The old belt can then be removed , the sprocket should still be aligned with the timing marks and the central sprocket bolt removed. The sprocket is keyed to the shaft with a dowel. The old seal can be hooked out and a new one fitted. Align sprocket with dowel. Fit bolt, check alignment with marks. I usually fully tighten the bolt when the new belt is on, or use the old belt wrapped around the sprocket to hold it still whilst you tighten the bolt. Make sure its all aligned after tightening with the timing mark.

The pictures from Chicken Drumstick tell the story. I managed to pick up some tubeless standard LR wheels from Eblag earlier in the year. They are stamped "TUBELESS" on the rim inside and outside and are 5.5" wide. The date stamps show 2009, so are Defender era, but they are going on my Series 3 with 7.50 tyres. There are plenty on the interweb, but you really need to check for the TUBELESS stamping. The bead lock groove is visible from the outside of the wheel with the tyre fitted - and should be visible in a decent pic online.

The return spring fits to a tag , near the clevis on the vertical rod, that attaches to the pivot point from the chassis. The other end goes to a bigger tag attached under one of the mounting bolts on the transfer box to chassis mount, adjacent to the transfer box oil drain plug. I suspect the ratchet won't work until you have the return spring fitted.

Proper job! You could probably make a bob or few if you made a few extra panels and sold them on the forum.

If all the other electrics are fine, then either run a new earth to that light, or earth that light to another existing earth point. 3rd method as you say, is to fix the original earth point. It doesn't matter which method you use.

They do match, you just have spiral stripes on one set of wires and straight stripes on the other. Match green/yellow straight to green yellow spiral etc.

With the drums back on, clamp (using a proper hose clamp), both front flexi hoses and the rear axle hose. Press brake pedal, if no air in the system, it should be rock solid and have very little movement. Release one of the front hose clamps and repeat. You should still have a firm pedal but with a bit more movement than before. If not, the trouble is in that corner. If all is well, release other front hose clamp. If the pedal suddenly sinks, that corner is where your problem is. Once you have the front ok, release clamp on rear hose. If pedal now sinks, problem is at the rear. Another think that will cause pedal sink, is a seized wheel cylinder. As the wheel with the seized cylinder won't be doing any braking, the other wheels have to do more and you may well find much more pedal is needed. Using my method above, will highlight if you have a potentially seized/sticking cylinder. Finally when bleeding the brakes, use fast/swift pedal movements to get the fluid moving more rapidly - rather than slow movements. Don't push the pedal to the floor, go about half way.

I've done this, twice. Take floor and tunnel out. Remove top cover of gearbox and remove all selectors/forks. They just wiggle out. Be careful you don't loose the detent ball bearings. You will need long nose pliers and some dental floss (!). The 3rd/4th synchro is visible and the new springs can be fed in using pliers. Tie dental floss round each spring and attach the other end outside the gearbox. This saves the tedium of fishing them out through the bottom of the box when you inevitably drop them! IIRC its easier to have the syncro in neutral, slide one end of the spring in and then flick the hub along to get the other end in. The first spring is easier than the last. 🙄 Cut the dental floss when the spring is in place. You will need plenty of patience, but if you are lucky, it will actually take longer to get the floor out and the selector forks out. Use grease to stick the detent balls in place when you fit the top cover. The springs seem to last a lot longer if you make slow changes 3 to 4 and back, pausing in neutral (can keep clutch depressed) before going into the other gear. Its probably quick shifts that fracture the springs.

I have done several in the past but as Ralph mentions you need the right pullers. The cost of new ones complete with pulleys has dropped so much now that it is hardly worth the faff. However still willing to do them for forum members if you can get them to me.

Yep 6 degrees BTDC on unleaded (checked with a strobe) works well.

Have you done a compression test to rule out the head gasket?

Yes, that's also correct and the tell tale that the shoes are the wrong way round. On the leading shoe, at the fixed pivot there is less force than at the cylinder. For the trailing, there is more force at the pivot and the least force of all at the cylinder. Hence as an economy measure the linings are cut short at the "low force" points.

Be better if you photographed them flat on the ground - so each pair makes a circle, but the ones with the longer linings will the leading shoes. The leading shoe at the front of the axle, will have the lining closer to the cylinder and shorter at the pivot end. The rear shoe will have more lining at the pivot and less at the cylinder end.

Attach the self cancelling collar to the back of the Defender style wheel using self tapping screws. That's how I've done it on my series 3. You may need to gently bend the indicator stalk to clear the wheel, as it has less offset than the original wheel - so its closer to the bulkhead and hence the stalk.

Just renewed the historic/free taxation on the series 3. At the point for checking a valid MOT, the website stated words to the effect - this vehicle is over 40 years old and may be exempt from a MOT if not substantially altered in the last 30 years. There was then a self declaration option to accept the statement or decline - if vehicle has been modified for instance.