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About jameslwt

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    Boats and Landrovers.
  1. Many thanks and yes, the gauges are different. I thought you meant the sender which seems to be the same whether 12v or 24v although that's a question also looking at google. Thanks for the help James
  2. Hi Bowie Do you have the different part numbers or know where I can get them from? All I can find is that the part is one and the same, whether 12v or 24v. Many thanks James
  3. Thanks for the replies - I'll have a look at the back of the gauge later
  4. According to the suppliers, its the same sensor for both 12v and 24v
  5. Hi I've recently acquired a '79 Lightweight FFR and the coolant temperature gauge goes straight up to the maximum when the ignition is on. The previous owner fitted a new sensor/sender, as have I, with no change. I've read up a bit on this, and earthing the wire to the sender flicks the gauge straight into the red. As I understand it this means both the gauge and the wiring are fine, and its likely to be the sender. However this is sender No 3 (luckily not expensive) so I don't believe they are all faulty. Has anyone got any other ideas? I bet its something really simple (he hopes lol). Thanks James
  6. Does anyone have any recommendations for suppliers of reconditioned heads on a td5? Not mine luckily but said I'd ask. Thanks all James
  7. Hi guys Am I right in thinking that the air vent/flap levers are the same across the land river models - ie will a defender set fit a series? Haven't got the part numbers to check. Thanks James
  8. Change doors. Up and Over doors loose you a lot of height. Replace with full height side opening barn doors. As it's a rented garage, can you keep the entire up and over door somewhere (in it's frame)? They just bolt in and out. Mine is sat leaning up against a wall in case we sell the house in the future, as SWMBO thinks I have devalued the property and so wants me to be able to replace it if we move! I have changed the door on 2 houses now for this exact reason. Surprisingly easy, especially if you are ok at a bit of carpentry! You may even find that the garage owner is happy for you to leave it with barn doors. I can't imagine up and over doors are the most secure in the world.....especially compared to some decent wooden doors.
  9. Am guessing its because it has a ball socket at the end which sits in a cup - which locates in/on the plug.
  10. I need to fit a core plug to my 3.5 V8 but the engine is in the vehicle and I can't get enough room to knock it in as the chassis rail is in the way (2a SWB). Does anyone have a core plug fitting tool (often called freeze plug fitting tool) that they might be willing to let me borrow/hire etc for a few days? I can't find a supplier in the UK, and by the time I have bought and shipped one from the USA the cost is going to be upwards of £75 - nearer £100 which seems crazy for a tool I will almost certainly only use once! For anyone wondering they look like this and enable you to tap them in from an angle (and you rotate as you do so)so hopefully this will work. http://www.amazon.co.uk/OTC-OTC4603-Stinger-Remover-Installer/dp/B000XSGKYO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372786877&sr=8-1&keywords=freeze+plug+tool Otherwise it's engine out time or expandable plug but I think they are for emergency use only. Thanks in hopeful anticipation....
  11. I think it might be...I did wonder. I'll see what I can find Thanks
  12. My recently acquired series2a has a military hoop with the rear stays. These clearly attach to the top of the tub sides and kind of 'fit/slide over them'. As well as the standard vertical bolts there are 2 bolts going horizontally from the rear hoop brackets into the triangular box section bit that runs around the inside top of the tub. (excuse my amazing descriptions!) My question is - am I missing something, or how the heck do you bolt these down - unless I find someone with unnervingly long fingers, there is no way to get nuts onto the inside of the box section. Or should I be looking at some other type of fastening? Thanks James
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