TwelvestringTrev
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Posts posted by TwelvestringTrev
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Funny thing is since I decided to put up with it, the problem has gone ?
The bloody thing's possessed !
Ah well.... 'Onwards and upwards'.
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After looking at the post you suggested.......
The problem isn't worthy of the graft involved.
It's more economically viable and time saving to just put up with it.
Thanks anyway !
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Take an ordinary oil filter 'strap' wrench and wrap it around the pulley wheel.
(The type you can buy easily at the 'Pound Shop')
Hold it with your left hand and use a 10mm socket to loosen the bolts with your right hand.
I did it and it worked for me.
'Simples'!!!
Good luck.
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Sounds like one or more of the 6 battery cells are shot. Each cell gives off 2 Volts. 10 volts may start the engine but any less than that wont. Battery posts becoming hot under load is a common sign and bubbling of the battery after attempting to start the engine.
You could do no harm by topping the battery up with distilled water. It may be just low.
Good luck !
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Can someone tell me if there's a reset format for the immobiliser and alarm system on the Disco 300 TDi? The immobiliser cuts in after short stops and the Discovery wont start. I have to wait for 5 minutes every time it happens which doesn't bode well when visiting the garage for fuel.
1997 Land Rover Discovery. 300 series. 2.5 TDi.
Thanks.
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Hi, inspect the bonnet switch, if jammed in the open position it's not completing the circuit and the alarm will not arm properly, only the doors will lock.
Hope this helps!
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I have designed and build specialist Anti-Theft Immobilisation Systems for Classic Cars. (Petrol, Diesel or L.P.G.) The installation of the system involves no drilling or defacement of bodywork making the system ideal for Classics, there's no "keys", "remotes" or "keypads" to arm or disarm and you cannot forget to switch it on. The system is called I.M.P.A.C.T. which means :- Invisible Magnetic Protection Against Car Theft. 315 fitted to date and 315 people still have their treasured vehicles. I do them as d.I.Y. if anyone's interested?
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Replace your "P" Gasket. Exact same problem just cost me a head skim, gasket, thermostat, water pump and a lot of stress after being driven well up the wall !
GOOD LUCK !
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Just went through the same carp with my 300 TDI. The "P" Gasket went behind the water pump, no signs of any C/H problems. Went on for three weeks kicking water out of the expansion tank. Head gasket went between the 1st and 2nd cylinder. Had head skimmed and pressure tested, put it back on and bingo, up and running fine once more! The funny thing is it never showed up on a gas test ?Hi All.
Car a 2000 disco 2, Td5
Never had any probs with overheating etc till....
The vibration weight snapped on the bottom pully.
Car ran fine untill i sourced a new pully.
Replaced pully rad out etc new belt on.
Fan belt become loose on way to work still turned fan etc, just made a noise.
The heating went cold after a few more miles, carried onto work as was just round corner, Found i had a split in one of the bottom water pipes,
Repaired the pipe, rebled system,
Since then iam loosing all the water from the system in a bout 40 miles, car does overheat on the motorway after 20 mins or so..
There is no leeks,
The oil is good no mayo etc, had a mate follow me no sign of steam out the exhaust, so hopefully not the headgasket.
My way of thinking is water pump or fan or themostat,
Another idea was I had put the two pipes which go on the bottom of the rad the wrong way round, but cannot see that makes a difference.
Any body got any ideas as its driving me up the wall.
Cheers Al
Replaced water pump, thermostat, bled system to no avail before finding the problem. Damned "P" gasket is a real pain!
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Can someone please tell me how many bolts secure the water pump, steering pump and belt tensioner housing on a 300 TDI Discovery? I've replaced the "P" Gasket and water pump but I'm left with a 5" bolt and can't see where it's missing from. Just thought I'd ask to save me taking the whole lot apart again. I could've sworn it was from the bottom bracket of the alternator but it won't go through and I've put a smaller bolt through and it seems right.
If not, does anyone know where I'll get a blow up diagram for it?
Many thanks.
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A quick squirt of good old fashioned "Talcum Powder" onto the grooved side of the belt stops it chirping. If it starts again after a couple of minutes it's either water on the belt or the tensioner's out of alignment. Check your "P" gasket. I didn't and blew the head gasket on my 300 TDI Disco. If you change the water pump, it shares three long bolts with this gasket and nine times out of ten it doesn't reseal after their removal.Hello all, looking for some advice on how to identify where the loud, continuous chirping is coming from on my 300tdi...new belt, relatively new water pump, power steering pump, fairly recent alternator rebuild. what is the most common culprit? I tried listening through a hose to the various components but no luck decifering the origin. thx,Ken
GOOD LUCK !!!
Start after gasket change
in Freelander Forum
Posted
Warped Head ? Freelanders are blessed with that fault.