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monkie

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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monkie last won the day on April 1

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About monkie

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    Yeovil Somerset

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  1. Here is a disclaimer - I don't really know as I have not done this, but I think I have heard of this somewhere so I am advising caution and look into this further before doing anything or maybe someone who knows for sure can clarify if this is true or not: You've kind of said it yourself with the DPF, that is just another way of meeting certain emissions criteria for diesel engines, but it isn't the only way a diesel engine can be made to meet emissions regulations of the time of introduction for that engine. I don't think you'd get as far as an MOT, its the paperwork side when you register the engine swap. The Td5 was introduced to meet stricter regulations on emissions than the Tdi. I reckon when you try to register the change on your V5 is when you would potentially run into trouble. I would speak with the DVLA before doing anything. You don't want to spend money and time on a project to be told computer says no! A vehicle made in 2001 for example would have to meet emissions regulations of 2001 or regulations coming up a year or two down the line. Fitting it with an engine from 1996 would mean that the vehicle would no longer meet the regulations it was designed to meet by 5 years! That is the problem I think you would run into.
  2. The arguments of why would you want to put to one side - legally speaking, are you even allowed to down grade Td5 engine to a 300Tdi from an emissions point of view? I've got it in my head that you are not, but I don't know where this has come from. I think a Td5 is Euro III and a 300 Tdi is Euro II or even Euro I.....? I've never had a Td5, but I understand that the fears over poor reliability of electronic diesel fuel systems turned out to be misplaced. The reality as I see it no matter whether it is a Tdi, Td5 or even a puma they are all getting on abit - it totally depends on how it has been looked after which is often a leap of faith with a second hand car.
  3. The one I used looked very much like it was designed to flex as the pivot was not horizonal until it had the weight of the engine applied to it. In terms of height, they hold the engine at a nice height to work on. When rebuilding, work on the bottom half first to get the crank etc sorted, turn it 90' and slide the pistons in then turn a further 90' and work on the top end. Once the head is on there should be no need to turn the engine 180'...... unless you have dropped a nut or screw inside the engine 🤪
  4. monkie

    Lead Lamp

    I use a battery powered LED work light. It will charge from USB or a car 12v cigar lighter. It lasts hours on one charge, is very bright and you have the added bonus of no wires. https://www.screwfix.com/p/luceco-led-usb-rechargeable-site-light-10w-5v/5276K?tc=KA8&ds_kid=92700019905806947&ds_rl=1248181&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249481&gclid=CjwKCAjw8uLcBRACEiwAaL6MSYtj2mv_snlI_FzZYZNX-iiVEcuA5Y4zf77hTwCVBighJlrfTAF5MhoC41kQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CPGFzqentt0CFaeoUQodOykBgA
  5. The engine stand I used for my 19J (has an iron head so is heavier than a Tdi) did flex but I think they are designed to. I would not contemplate turing the engine with the head on as it might whip round and hurt you, plus it would be a bugger of a job to turn it back upright. Once the head was off it was fine to turn on the stand.
  6. monkie

    leaky 110 rear diff seal

    Thanks to all for the responses, as usual all are really helpful. Considering I'm going to the job as Richard describes, 160 Nm is tight in my books when crawling on your back with a torque wrench in hand, grit in your eye and no doubt it just starts to rain!
  7. monkie

    leaky 110 rear diff seal

    That was the product I was looking at Richard. Given your success I think I will give that one a go. Out of interest, where did 120 ft-lb come from? That seems quite tight to me (163 Nm) but if that is the consensus and that's what you did.....
  8. monkie

    leaky 110 rear diff seal

    Did you just replace the seal or did you get the kit with the new flange as well? I'm thinking I might as well do both but in doing so it might mean that tightening the nut back to the marks painted on may well be meaningless?
  9. monkie

    leaky 110 rear diff seal

    Just to add Paddy, I understand that the rear diffs on a 110 are different to those on a 90 but I'm not sure how they differ in terms of this job.
  10. monkie

    leaky 110 rear diff seal

    The link to the video is here. I'll hopefully get round to it over the next few weekends and I will post an update. I will make the holding tool in the week that Ianmayco68 kindly put the plans up for.
  11. monkie

    leaky 110 rear diff seal

    Really helpful. Thank you very much. I shall get myself some 6mm steel.
  12. monkie

    leaky 110 rear diff seal

    Thanks for that useful info. I watched a video on it and they made a tool not half as good as that one you've got. Do you have the measurements of the holes handy please?
  13. monkie

    leaky 110 rear diff seal

    The MOT is approaching next month so I have spent quite a bit of time under my 110 with the MIG sorting out a couple of patches on the chassis and putting a new exhaust system on. Whilst doing this I noticed that the rear diff is starting to leak at the drive flange so I want to nip this in the bud. I've never done anything with either diff (other than oil change) so I don't know what to expect really. For those who have been here before, is it worth while getting the flange kit as in the link below or just the seal? (I'm considering the middle option with a lower price tag than LR but not one from a blue box). Also what about the bearing while I'm here, is that a job that can be done without stripping the diff? https://www.lrdirect.com/STC4457-Flange-Oem/
  14. monkie

    FIP Question

    Its easy done. Had many a close call myself. I now put some red tape over the ignition lock to remind me not to do it when I'm doing work that means I shouldn't be turning the key.
  15. I can understand why you think it, but it is a misconception that more blades = more air moved for a fan. More blades can however make a fan quieter. Given the clatter of the Tdi engines I can't say I've ever heard any difference between the two.
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