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monkie

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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monkie last won the day on January 16 2022

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  1. I guess in the case of an aircraft, everything is well documented and there are so many wires, colouring wouldn't help much. Out of interest, what do the tags look like on aircraft wiring? For a Land Rover I think sticking to the original wiring scheme is best to help you (or subsequent owner) trace a fault in the future. Or if you do go down the route of using plain coloured wires with tags, at least a few colours with the tags may be helpful such as black for earths, red for lighting, yellow for instruments etc.
  2. Having done a big rewire myself, I totally agree with the above point. Sort out the earths properly so aren't reliant on earthing through the bodywork Lable and take photos of everything because you won't remember quite where how wire x fed into the loom in place y or z. Give very careful consideration to each connector, do you really need it? Next time I'd delete as many as possible and cut the wires and fit a connector later if I had to.
  3. Quick update: the other weekend it was fine enough to allow me to get the wheels off the ground and have a look at the problem. Everything regarding the brake pads/shoes and discs/drums all looked in order. I did purge new fluid through the system and it was quite dark stuff that came out. I think this has made quite a difference to the feel of the pedal, so hopefully that's it. I did notice though a fair bit of black gunge in the reservoir as if the seals are deteriorating. I can't remember what brand of master cylinder I got now when I exchanged it in 2019 (it wasn't out a blue box) but I do hope the seals aren't going after 5 years.
  4. Didn't Land Rover fit a diode in the wiring in the mid 90's? Probably should have one from day 1.
  5. I agree with the above. You have ruled out an issue with the fuel pipes, ie they haven't been disturbed and put back incorrectly. You have checked the boost diaphragm and it is intact. You can't see debris inside the fuel injection pump where the solenoid sits. This is all pointing to an electrical issue. Can you confirm the engine stops when you physically remove the white supply wore from the solenoid on the fuel injection pump?
  6. It must be getting diesel from somewhere. I have some thoughts... Does the puddle of diesel appear under the front of the vehicle? Can you verify that the fuel lines from/to the filter are connected as they should be (I think there is a valve in one of the lines to prevent fuel flowing the wrong way in the return line)? Can you access and check the condition of The boost diaphragm on the side of the fuel injection pump? The boost diaphragm can split allowing boost pressure from the turbo into the fuel pump as well as allow diesel to flow back down the boost pipe to the turbo when the engine is off. Although this usually results in the engine racing for a moment at start up (along with a lot of smoke), I'm wondering if this is pressurising your fuel system and causing the leak or somehow forcing fuel to flow the wrong way explaining why the solenoid is ineffective - a long shot, but worth investigating.
  7. I find mine really useful and use it routinely. For prolonged runs up hills, with a heavy load in the back or going down the motorway, it's a useful reading to tell you when to back off a bit to a safer temperature.
  8. I wouldn't worry too much about it at this stage. It will be very obvious if you have a compatibly issue as the gauge will either do nothing or jump right up into the red. Easy enough to sort out with a later gauge from a Tdi Defender if necessary
  9. This is an informative thread to read on the topic... https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/78084-19j-to-200-tdi-conversion-coolant-temp-sensor-question/
  10. I think there were different senders used on the 200tdi engines, depending whether it was Defender or Discovery spec. I think the Discovery spec 200tdi engines will make your gauge read incorrectly. I have a stack gauge and corresponding sender fitted to my 200Tdi, it cost a few £ but I highly recommend it.
  11. I'd say make your own. It's a great opportunity to improve the electrical system through better earths and better/no connections. I did mine a few years ago and it was the best thing I've done to upgrade my 110.
  12. No, I doesn't need to come off. Once the nuts are off that hold the frame to the roof, there is just about enough flex to move the fame forwards, away from the roof. It's been a while since I did it, but IIRC there are two locating pins on the bulkhead that hold the frame in position.
  13. It could well be two separate problems. Sorting out the earths so I had an earth bus at each corner plus the dash going straight back to the battery via a nice thick wire was one of the best electrical upgrades I did to my 110. This is a wiring diagram (minus the earths) I made for the standard lighting circuit on my 1988 110 which might help you figure it out
  14. I had exactly this issue a few years back on my 1988 110. Worth a look...
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