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monkie last won the day on April 25

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About monkie

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    Yeovil Somerset

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  1. A lovely piece of work, almost too lovely for the back of a land rover!
  2. The clock and 12v outlet are supplied by permanent live connections so are independent of the ignition switch. You can buy either just the switch or just the steering lock. The switch has an off position, on where all is live and the glowplug part to energise the relay and the critical stuff like the stop solenoid. Then the start position.
  3. Welcome to the forum. As others have said some pictures would be nice. What engine does it have? Have you got a welder?!
  4. May I ask where you got the fittings from please Mo. On this close up picture I have, you can see I don't have a gas tight seal going by the soot marks. I want to sort that out.
  5. Your wood working skills look a lot neater than mine! Great job.
  6. I was thinking of suggesting something from the US too. I would love a Dodge Ram. There's also a Hummer H1? I've no idea how easy they are to get of over here.
  7. That looks great. Keep the pictures coming of your progress. I'm think of some thing along these lines myself.
  8. I think with good planning, you can eliminate a lot of them in most cars I've seen. I think they are mostly for the convenience of the manufacturers. My point is that I chose to use mainly econoseal and superseal on my rebuild and they were not cheap. I fitted connectors where LR had. I think you can easily loose the connectors to the engine harness and chassis harness. In my experience the superseal connectors aren't great with thicker 17amp wires even when using the wider rubber seals.
  9. That's interesting to read about the labels on heatshrink. I got a Brother E something or other and the genuine heatshrink tape casset. So far I have used it on the wires to my gauges that are right next to the hot oily engine so I'll see how they take the abuse. The experience I have gained so far on this rewire project is that if anyone wants to do just one thingand is on a tight budget to improve the electrics on their vehicle: I would say run a nice thick earth wire of say 35 amp capacity to each corner that go straight to the clamp on the battery negative terminal. Most of my budget
  10. I don't like the ones stack give you with the gauge as it isn't particularly gas tight. It looks like you have got a compression fitting which looks much better. I will investigate.
  11. @reb78 here's some pictures for you. First ones of the practice in the old turbo so you can see clearly where I drilled the manifold. Second one is showing the probe in place on my 19J.
  12. I kept the old turbo that failed so I practiced on it before putting a drill near the one currently fitted (the one I bought off you Richard). I drilled and tapped the manifold to M12 and made an adapter to take the npt fitting that came with the gauge. That wasn't satisfactory as the brass adapter I made was too weak not enough metal for an M12 thread. I ended up using plan B which is drilling a hole (manifold off the engine) and using the plane holder that is held by a large clip that comes with the stack egt guage kit. This isn't overly satisfactory long term and I need to fiddle about with
  13. Ive gone down a rabbit hole now (seems to be a Land rover thing!) I've got myself a maxi/midi fuse box and the Bussmann fuse and relay box from @SteveG. I am going to run run a feed from the bus on the starter (removing all others) to the maxi/midi fuse box to delete all the unfused circuits from the original loom.
  14. Foot down on the A303 in 5th gear going 70mph or climbing hills. I reduced my speed just a little (60-65mph) and the EGT dropped significantly. The 19J maximum boost should be about 0.65 Bar, but I'm guessing the lack of an intercooler is resulting in the higher EGT. I'd be interested to hear if anyone else has measured the EGT in a 19J. I'm guessing this might be another reason for the lower reliability of the 19J engine if you can quite easily get the EGT high.
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