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monkie last won the day on April 1

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About monkie

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    Yeovil Somerset

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  1. monkie

    footwell repair to do after MOT pick up

    That's exactly what I used (Shire Blue though for my 110). I think the rust has come from damp collecting under the floor mats. I don't have mats now. I'm going to rub it down to bare metal and repaint. I used the U-POL Zinc spray first.
  2. monkie

    footwell repair to do after MOT pick up

    Nice to see the rust gone and solid metal in its place. I treated my footwells as you describe and the rust is starting to come back under the paint (5 years later so not too bad). What top coat did you use? I just used a cellulose based paint.
  3. monkie

    Smokescreen worthy of a Bond Car being pursued!

    White/grey I would say is a mix of a little oil and largely unburnt diesel. As others have said, when you are able to take it for a drive and get it nice and warm. Once MOTed and Taxed, put fresh fuel in (I would be tempted to add Millers diesel treatment as you fill up) and change the oil + filters. It would also be wise to dump the coolant and give the radiator, block and heater a flush before filling with fresh antifreeze mix. I imagine that you will then see a difference.
  4. monkie

    Smokescreen worthy of a Bond Car being pursued!

    White Smoke? Blue Smoke? Black Smoke? All point towards different things
  5. monkie

    What engine do I have?

    As I understand it, the Mod kept the 2.5 NA diesel until the introduction of the 300Tdi. They didn't have the 19J turbo diesel nor the 200Tdi. I think Land Rover did use parts they had from production 19J engines after discontinuation such as blocks, pistons and valves. These engines for the MoD were either 11J or 13J - I don't know the difference. One quick visual check you could do is to look on the engine block near the dip stick tube and see if there is a blanked off oil return which would be for a turbo fitted to a 19J.
  6. monkie

    2.5 na fuel pipes keep bursting !!

    Lrseries as one example supply the genuine LR part. Is it always the same pipe leaking? Is the union on the FIP damaged at all?
  7. monkie

    Converting 2.5na 12J to Power Steering

    Looks great. Good work
  8. monkie

    footwell repair to do after MOT pick up

    I've got a little Clarke Mig welder. It's a great DIY welder. Hopefully you've got yourself a bargain there.
  9. monkie

    footwell repair to do after MOT pick up

    Get some fresh wire too. Nothing more frustrating than getting half way through to find the wire has run out..... back on the bus to the shop!
  10. monkie

    What engine do I have?

    Cheap glowplugs can cause you starting issues also.
  11. monkie

    Specialised 2.5 N/A Glow Plug Advice Needed Please.

    Hold on a minute, I think we are running away here: we are talking about a naturally aspirated diesel in your LR, not a turbo diesel? Personally I would leave the pump well alone now the timing issue is solved. Make sure you keep it well serviced in terms of oil and filter (oil, air and fuel) and ensure the valve clearences are checked form time to time when cold, then just enjoy your LR. Some smoke from an old diesel is normal - some would say part of its charm!
  12. monkie

    Specialised 2.5 N/A Glow Plug Advice Needed Please.

    Thank you. In terms of the crankshaft, when I took it off it looked quite scored. Like pistons and rings where you have a few options of size (standard or oversize) the big end and main bearings also have a choice of size (standard, 10 thou under or 20 thou under). The pictures don't really show how bad it looked in real life. I took it to my local engineering shop and asked them how bad it was. I left it with them and they told me they took it down by 10 thou undersize to remove the scoring which wasn't as bad I feared. As the new diameter was 10 thou undersize, I got bearings to match the new size.
  13. monkie

    Specialised 2.5 N/A Glow Plug Advice Needed Please.

    Good to hear that adjusting the pump solved the porblems. Timing issues by only a small amount can have profound effects. I once cocked up the pump timing on a 300Tdi and resulted in clouds of unburnt diesel, and that was only a little bit out. In terms of my rebuild thread. It is really quite straight forward, they are basic engines. You just have to be methodical and make carful inspection and measurements as you go, deciding what is scrap and what is servicable.
  14. monkie

    Specialised 2.5 N/A Glow Plug Advice Needed Please.

    I agree, remove the radiator to give yourself as much room as possible so you can see what you are doing clearly. A stripped thread is annoying, particulalry given the money you have put into that head to have it checked and skimmed. The smoke and clatter from cold is quite normal, that big iron block and head full of cold water takes alot of heat out of the combustion for the first few minutes from initial start up, hence the smoke and noise. I would do a compression test before you start to worry about rings. As for the bottom end, you can quite easily on a dry morning drain the oil, remove the sump and take the big end caps off one by one just to get an idea of the degree of wear/scoring on the bearings, and even check the end float of the crank. If you do decide to sort the rings and bearing out - I would take the whole engine out and refurb the lot while you are there. I did my 19J a few years ago. Here is the link to my rebuild thread.
  15. monkie

    Specialised 2.5 N/A Glow Plug Advice Needed Please.

    Okay, I see how the injection timing being off could account for knocking noises. I think that you might need to revisit the timing belt situation and see just how far out the injection pump, in the long run the only way way to truely get it timed correctly would be to take the timing cover off so you can see everything and replace the belt if necessary. I find the tool that screws into the side of the injection pump really useful once the crank is locked in position so you know all is set correctly. In terms of the leaking glow plug, I think this is a bit of a red herring in the grand scheme of things - how much compression do you really think you might be loosing? I doubt it would be much, a compression test would put a figure to it. If it were me, I would try cleaning the threads up first, then using a smear of copper grease when you put the glow plugs back in torqued to the figure by the book... but I would look at the timing issue first before taking the head off or looking at the bottom end - it could save you a lot of work in the long run. Hope this helps you.

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