Jump to content


Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by monkie

  1. I think I misunderstood what it was saying. I thought it was saying the Land Rover oil pressure switch was an M10 thread - mine is not. I have ordered the relevant T-piece from Merlin Motorsport as well as the adapter for the M16 port now I finally got the blanking plug removed. I had to remove the vacuum pump and throttle linkage to the FIP to be able to swing a spanner in there to get it undone.
  2. Thanks for that Ralph. I have found that my oil pressure switch in the 19J is a 1/8"NPT thread. I think if I get the correct T piece from merlin motorsport it will allow the bulky Stack sender to sit out of the way of the oil cooler pipes and let me retain the oil pressure switch. I've now got to figure out what bonkers thread is used on the blanking plug at the front of the filter housing where I plan to put the oil temp sender. I'm hoping for M12 but I bet it isn't!
  3. I got the Stack guages which came with the corresponding senders. I have checked for the banjo and extension piece in your diagram (ETC4034 and ETC4033) and the are not available so I was thinking of using the port for the oil pressure switch. If memory serves me well the Stack Oil temperature sender was an M10 thread size, I will have to look up the presure sender dimensions. Do you know what the thread size is on the oil filter housing for the blanked off port you used for the oil temperature sender and that for the oil pressure switch? When I look up the part number for the oil pressur
  4. Superb, thank you Ralph. Even including the part numbers for the add on bits and pieces for both senders.
  5. Thread revival alert! @western do you still have this set up? I'm looking how I can fit my oil temperature sender with out drilling into the sump. I see this is for your oil pressure sender, how did you fit your oil temperature sender?
  6. ... But you're in a Land Rover, you already know you're late before you've even set off
  7. You could always temporarily fit a known good one from the front to check the wiring works
  8. Yep, I think Western had it spot on. Carefully check the connections are right and then recheck the earths. In my experience the most devious electrical demons are summoned through bad earths.
  9. I'm afraid my wiring is a bit too 20th century for the Td5 era!
  10. Is this any help? I struggled to find a comprehensive list of land rover specific wiring colour code so I made my own from my 1988 loom and circuit diagrams: G=green, LG = light green, R=red, U=blue, W=white, O=orange, P=purple, N =brown, B=black, Y=yellow, S=slate(grey), K=pink. G fused ignition on GR left turn signal GW right turn signal GP brake lights GN reverse light GB fuel sender GY
  11. Indeed. What I'm doing is inspired by @ianmayco68 custom dash. I have tacho, coolant and fuel in the main binnacle, then I have some aluminium sheet I'm making a new dash slightly angled towards the driver to house the boost, EGT, oil pressure, oil temp, volt meter and a USB socket. I'll put up a picture when I've sorted it out
  12. As usual @western I'm indebted to your sage advice. Perfect fit on the 19j cylinder head
  13. Here's my project... I've got to find a place to put this lot. My wife said she could think of "several places I could stick them". Not sure what she means as I didn't think she'd ever fit any guages to a land rover
  14. What EGT guages are folk running, where have people put the probe in relation to the exhaust turbine?
  15. I have something like this. I can't remember exactly, but yes I think it maywell be left handed thread - you'll soon find out!
  16. Yes, that's a good point. I noticed a few different coloured wires in my main loom that were unused as they were for unfitted optional extras. I can't imagine they would fit a chassis loom with no green/brown wire for the reverse light.
  17. Thanks Ralph, how do people put the Stack sender in the head for 200Tdi? The sender supplied is 1/8"NPT with adapters for 3/8"NPT and 1/2" NPT.
  18. I have an LT77 gearbox and the switch is easily seen if you remove the panel under the centre seat. I'm not sure if the location of the switch varies with the other gearboxes but have a look on Google images or land rover workshop on the parts diagrams.
  19. Not very difficult. You take the 12v supply from a green wire behind the dash (green is a fused live with ignition on), it should be on the same fuse that fuses the brake lights, indicators and instrument lights). Run the feed to the switch on the gear box, then a green/brown wire from the switch to the light on the rear of the vehicle. The standard reverse light units just have the green/brown supply and an earth. Job done.
  20. As a follow on from my rewire project on my 110, I want to get myself a set of gauges to monitor the engine better. I am starting with an acurate coolant temperature guage (Stack professional from Merlin motorsport). I will initially be fitting this to my 19J, but I will soon be fitting Ian's Defender spec 200 Tdi. Two questions. (1) Will the sender fit/what sender do I need in terms of thread size? (2) Will the sender required for the 19J be the same as that required for the 200Tdi in terms of thread size? https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/stack-water-temperature-gauge-40-120-deg
  21. First opportunity I've had to take my 110 down a dark farm road to test out my new light set up at night. Before the rewire I had the standard switch operated circuit, standard H4 bulbs but crystal lenses. The last time I remember driving in the dark with that set up it was hard to tell if the beam was dipped or undipped, it was rubbish. Now I have nice thick wires supplying current to the bulbs via relays. I am using the night breaker bulbs. The difference is almost night and day. (I was stationary down a dead end farm road when taking these pictures).
  22. I can do the bit from the A303 at Podimoor to Mike.
  23. Yes, you are right. That part there is indeed the boost diaphragm from a 19j injection pump.
  24. Yes, that's my first thought too. My advice is remove all the wires from the ignition switch except for the main feed. Then see what terminals are live with the key in which position. The white/red wire should be connected to a terminal that is live only with the key held in the start position. It is this white/red wire that activates the starter relay to power the solenoid up on the starter motor. The only thing is that my 110 is relatively simple and has no immobiliser to add further complications... EDIT: looking at your ignition switch wiring (ignoring the red and the black wi
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy