monkie
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Posts posted by monkie
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I guess in the case of an aircraft, everything is well documented and there are so many wires, colouring wouldn't help much. Out of interest, what do the tags look like on aircraft wiring?
For a Land Rover I think sticking to the original wiring scheme is best to help you (or subsequent owner) trace a fault in the future. Or if you do go down the route of using plain coloured wires with tags, at least a few colours with the tags may be helpful such as black for earths, red for lighting, yellow for instruments etc.
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Having done a big rewire myself, I totally agree with the above point.
Sort out the earths properly so aren't reliant on earthing through the bodywork
Lable and take photos of everything because you won't remember quite where how wire x fed into the loom in place y or z.
Give very careful consideration to each connector, do you really need it? Next time I'd delete as many as possible and cut the wires and fit a connector later if I had to.
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Quick update: the other weekend it was fine enough to allow me to get the wheels off the ground and have a look at the problem. Everything regarding the brake pads/shoes and discs/drums all looked in order. I did purge new fluid through the system and it was quite dark stuff that came out.
I think this has made quite a difference to the feel of the pedal, so hopefully that's it.
I did notice though a fair bit of black gunge in the reservoir as if the seals are deteriorating. I can't remember what brand of master cylinder I got now when I exchanged it in 2019 (it wasn't out a blue box) but I do hope the seals aren't going after 5 years.
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46 minutes ago, Snagger said:
From your posts above, it seems you have an alternator fault that is back powering the ignition circuits. It’ll just be the diode pack on the back of the alternator.
You could fit a diode between the fuse box and the dash battery warning light, but that is masking symptoms rather than a proper repair.
Didn't Land Rover fit a diode in the wiring in the mid 90's? Probably should have one from day 1.
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I agree with the above.
You have ruled out an issue with the fuel pipes, ie they haven't been disturbed and put back incorrectly.
You have checked the boost diaphragm and it is intact.
You can't see debris inside the fuel injection pump where the solenoid sits.
This is all pointing to an electrical issue. Can you confirm the engine stops when you physically remove the white supply wore from the solenoid on the fuel injection pump?
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It must be getting diesel from somewhere. I have some thoughts...
Does the puddle of diesel appear under the front of the vehicle?
Can you verify that the fuel lines from/to the filter are connected as they should be (I think there is a valve in one of the lines to prevent fuel flowing the wrong way in the return line)?
Can you access and check the condition of The boost diaphragm on the side of the fuel injection pump? The boost diaphragm can split allowing boost pressure from the turbo into the fuel pump as well as allow diesel to flow back down the boost pipe to the turbo when the engine is off. Although this usually results in the engine racing for a moment at start up (along with a lot of smoke), I'm wondering if this is pressurising your fuel system and causing the leak or somehow forcing fuel to flow the wrong way explaining why the solenoid is ineffective - a long shot, but worth investigating.
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On 2/12/2024 at 8:44 AM, Sigi_H said:
Normaly EGT is only interesting while tuning the engine. As soon as you know how the engine and temps behaves it becomes useles.
I find mine really useful and use it routinely. For prolonged runs up hills, with a heavy load in the back or going down the motorway, it's a useful reading to tell you when to back off a bit to a safer temperature.
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I wouldn't worry too much about it at this stage. It will be very obvious if you have a compatibly issue as the gauge will either do nothing or jump right up into the red. Easy enough to sort out with a later gauge from a Tdi Defender if necessary
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This is an informative thread to read on the topic...
https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/78084-19j-to-200-tdi-conversion-coolant-temp-sensor-question/
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I think there were different senders used on the 200tdi engines, depending whether it was Defender or Discovery spec. I think the Discovery spec 200tdi engines will make your gauge read incorrectly. I have a stack gauge and corresponding sender fitted to my 200Tdi, it cost a few £ but I highly recommend it.
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I'd say make your own. It's a great opportunity to improve the electrical system through better earths and better/no connections. I did mine a few years ago and it was the best thing I've done to upgrade my 110.
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19 hours ago, vulcan bomber said:
Just to be cheeky, I make and supply these for a lot less than anyone else...
Brilliant little mod and on my 200tdi it reduced the EGTs by getting on for 100 degrees C.
Please can you DM me so I can buy one?
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No, I doesn't need to come off. Once the nuts are off that hold the frame to the roof, there is just about enough flex to move the fame forwards, away from the roof. It's been a while since I did it, but IIRC there are two locating pins on the bulkhead that hold the frame in position.
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It could well be two separate problems. Sorting out the earths so I had an earth bus at each corner plus the dash going straight back to the battery via a nice thick wire was one of the best electrical upgrades I did to my 110. This is a wiring diagram (minus the earths) I made for the standard lighting circuit on my 1988 110 which might help you figure it out
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I had exactly this issue a few years back on my 1988 110. Worth a look...
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Yep, elbekko beat me to it. This is what I did, otherwise it's the most frustrating job as at least one of the sprockets will move out of phase.
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21 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
There's nothing random about it!
At least it was actually of interest this time
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It's just randomly appeared on my Facebook feed!
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40 minutes ago, steve b said:
Can you do this test?
It will give you the Facts as to just what is going on and will show if the M/C is the culprit or rear cylinders.
Steve
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Yes, this is something I want to do when I get a moment.
1 hour ago, landroversforever said:I'm not sure, but it has the potential still I think. I like the master cylinder idea.
This is also a good thing to check. I replaced the master cylinder in 2019 (it wasn't a blue box part) the fluid in the reservoir is already starting to look dark like seals might be degrading.
I'm going to take a stepwise approach. I think the next thing to do is a fluid change, if nothing else it is good to have fresh fluid.
Then I'll take the rear drums off and see what's going on in there (pads upside down?).
I'll report back what I find.
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Its a good suggestion. I think I changed the fluid a year or two ago, but that could mean pre-covid times
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Alas, I have just been to readjust the rear brakes. There was no real slack in the shoes to take up (I don't really do that much mileage). I will ask the MOT tester about any play in the bearings, he didn't mention anything. Maybe it is time to take the drums off an take a look at the shoes.
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21 minutes ago, landroversforever said:
Is it a tester that's used to land rovers or older vehicles? Parents XC60 and the Mrs' Puma both have very grabby brakes with little to no travel before it does something.
Yes he is. He knows I maintain it. This is a good point, when I first got my 110 I used to take it to a place for an MOT who didn't know anything about Land Rovers. I soon learned my lesson there. They have a nice little series 3 in the yard.
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It didn't fail or get an advisory, it was just a comment made by the person who did the test.
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6 hours ago, Diff said:
If the rear shoes are adjusted up ok, and you still have a long pedal travel, it is possible that the shoes have been fitted the wrong way round. If you see my recent posts in a thread about Salisbury axle brake shoes, you will see what I mean. Common problem, and worth a check.
Regards, Diff.
Thank you, I shall have a look. I hadn't even considered this, one of the jobs I hate most on the entire vehicle is replacing brake shoes. They had better be the right way round!
The EBay Christ I fancy that 4x4 + its cheap thread
in International Forum
Posted
Nice, but the price of it
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/396130363165921/
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