monkie

These look good, but I don't understand how they would fit in the tight space on a 19J engine oil return as per the OP's pictures?

It is an absolute pain to tighten, a crows foot is best but still not straightforward in my experience. For next time... I found that the best way was to put the manifolds onto the head before refitting as tightening that nut up is far easier with the head off. I used an engine hoist to lower the head back down as it is a heavy lump with the manifolds inplace. You do of course then have the head ache of tightening the other end of the line to the block, but that one is easier.

I'm from the East Midlands originally but lived in the South of England from my early 20s onwards. When I first moved down here I sounded like a Northern Monkey according to all my new friends in the South so they all called me monkey. I spell "Monkie" with an ie at the end just for a difference

It was looked at by many specialists, in the end the conclusion was a new engine was needed, it seemed to me that no one really came to a firm conclusion on the precise cause. My boss decided to cut his losses and sold the car.

For me it would be oil seals I'd put at the top of the list. They simply just don't seal to the point I wonder why they still sell them. Lesson learned the hard way for me when I did my first rear crank seal only to find it didn't seal... So, oil on the floor, £10 on a new genuine seal, another day to remove the engine, fit the new seal and put the engine back in again... I now consider this a life lesson and keep a good distance between myself and cheap oil seals at all times!

It is my understanding that Defender spec 200Tdi, the blocks were painted a metallic gold colour. The Discovery 200tdi blocks were painted a metallic light green/blue colour, and the 300Tdi blocks were painted black.

I have 5 bus bars for the earth points. 1 in each corner and one near the fuse box. A couple of years in and I've not had a return of the electrical issues caused by sloppy earthing.

The short answer for a quick and convenient fix would be to send an earth via nice thick cable to a bolt holding an engine lifting eye to the engine, ensuring the bolt etc are all clean. A better place with slightly more work could be one of the bolts holding the bell housing to the engine. The best thing to do with earths (the best thing I have ever done to my 110) is to have a number of dedicated earth points located in each corner of the vehicle (for lights) and then on the bulkhead (for the other stuff), which all in turn are earthed straight back to the battery negative terminal by a nice thick wire. That way you are bypassing the reliance on the 25+ year old factory earths and ridding your land Rover of potential earthing faults for a long time. What ever you do, follow the original wiring colour codes to help you in the future with any wiring problems

I've done it a few times with 300 & 200 Tdi plus 19J each and every way. All worked well

A solid colour is from a supply to a switch and a striped colour is switch to component. I have used the standard lucas colour code: G=green, LG = light green, R=red, U=blue, W=white, O=orange, P=purple, N =brown, B=black, Y=yellow, S=slate(grey), K=pink. G fused ignition on GR left turn signal GW right turn signal GP brake lights GN reverse light GB fuel sender GY heater blower motor switch GS heater blower motor switch LGG oil temperature LGW oil pressure sender LGB screen wash pump LGP trailer warning light LGN hazard switch to flash relay R running lights RO right side/tail RB left side/tail RY rear fog RLG wiper motor RW 12v socket illumination U head lights UO right main US left main UK left dip UB right dip UG wiper motor W unfused live ignition on WR ignition switch to starter relay WO ignition switch to heater blower fuse and radio WB rear window heater WS fuel sender to guage WN oil pressure warning lamp WY hand brake warning light WG Heated rear window switch to relay/dash light P unfused permanent live PG fuse to heater blower motor PO seat belt warning light (where fitted) PW interior cab light PU door switch (where fitted) N permanent live from positive terminal bus on starter solenoid NLG wiper motor NY charge warning light NLG flasher relay NW fuse to heated rear window relay B earth BU diff lock engaged warning light BW brake warning light BR hazard switch illumination BK heated rear window relay to diode BS heated rear window diode to voltage sensitive switch YB Glowplug Feed

I drew up this chart from when I did my rewiring project: As I understand the circuit for the heated rear window, as you say there is a mechanism to prevent it being turned on unless the alternator is charging the battery. The Black/pink wire goes to a diode, from which a black/slate wire goes to a voltage sensitive switch to prevent the heated rear window from drawing current and draining the battery if the alternator isn't being driven by the engine.

The black pink (BK) wire goes from the heated rear window relay to a diode. I can't find a wiring diagram right now, but I'm sure it's shown of you look at the heated rear window diagram.

As folks have said, 19J engines need pre-heating, even in summer. Good functioning glowplugs are critical for this engine to start. It is a good idea to remove each glowplug, connect them to a 12V supply to visually test them to see the heat up uniformly and glow orange/yellow at the tips. Any doubts, replace the whole set of 4 and avoid cheap ones. I always insist on Beru glowplugs, from memory I think the 19J takes Beru GN909 glowplugs.

My experience mirrors this. I had a 19J on what I guess were original rubber mounts from 1988 on my 110. The 19j was smooth running in comparison to a clattery 200tdi, so just about got away with it. No chance with the 200tdi conversion. I got a set of the Glen Coyne mounts on the engine and gearbox... The difference was amazing.

^^^as above. I'd also advise changing the rear crank seal with a genuine one while the engine is out. Quite a straightforward and quick job with the engine out but a right pain with the engine in.

I've absolutely no idea if these could be made to fit an older 90 (hopefully someone in the know can clarify if this is or is not possible)... The 3rd row seats in the Puma Defenders are folding, forward facing seats. There is a pair currently on eBay for £650.

Would it though? I thought GDPR only covered the collection, storing and distribution of any personal data - have I misunderstood something here?

I thought the Td5 engines were standard in Defenders right up to 2007.

Isn't the British Leyland logo known as "the a-hole of doom"? I'm sure I've picked that up from somewhere on here a few years back.

I agree with this statement. The news of the land rover name being dropped surely doesn't come as a surprise to enthusiasts does it? In my view the land rover name dissappeared around 1990 (or whenever it was) with the introduction of the Discovery and the Defender name. That isn't to say I don't like defenders and discoveries.

Tdi engines are usually good starters. Your issue could be down to a few things, but common and relatively easy to investigate and solve (depending on your experience with spanners) are: Low cranking speed caused by low charge in battery, wiring fault, starter motor fault. Air in the fuel system Basic checks you can do: Check the voltage on the battery and that the cables are clean with a good tight contact on the battery terminals. Very carefully inspect the rubber spill pips on the fuel injectors for cracks, poor fit. They do age and perish which lets air leak into the fuel injection system as the vehicle sits. This would explain why it starts fine when the engine has been running (no time for air to get into the fuel system) but over a few hours the problem arises. It can be extremely difficult to see holes or cracks in these small hoses as it won't take much. Even better if you can get some new braided hose that is a nice tight fit on the injectors.

I'm surprised to see the amount of dislike for the Puma dash, I see it as a huge and long overdue upgrade and it has made me dislike the older style dash in my current 110. I do love the sound of the Td5 engine over the 4 cylinder engines... All this variety in personal preference goes to prove that anyone looking to buy a Defender for the first time really must check a few different variations out to see what you like and what works for you.

1 is enough for me. It has gone through my mind several times to get another, maybe an ex military one, but I don't have the space or time. I didn't like probability in maths either; the way I see it is that if I had more than 1 land rover, the probability of having a vehicle refusing to start or suffering from random and inexplicable electrical problems has just increased several fold.

I'm in the process of swapping my 1988 110 fitted with a 200tdi to a newer (2008 on) Tdci Puma. The best advice already given is go and drive a few, be very picky and do not rush your decision. The more you see, the more familiar you will become. I was in the Td5 vs Tdci debate with myself. In the end I much prefer the more modern style dash and doors that actually fit on the puma defenders, but this is all personal preference, you may prefer a Td5. You need to look at a few to see what works for you for what you want. With a defender age doesn't necessarily count for that much, you could find a trashed 2.2tdci with holes in it, and then a beautiful Td5 in tidy condition. Also finding a defender, even a "recent" 2.2tdci that hasn't been modified and mucked around with but well looked after isn't as easy as some might think. Keep searching, they do exist! Spend time to properly look over a defender, test everything you can on the vehicle, ask lots of questions. If the seller or the vehicle doesn't seem right to you, walk away.

This is really interesting and no doubt will be helpful to those wanting to do similar. Admins, one for the tech archive?