monkie

Agreed, but old/bad mounts would make the situation feel worse I think

I second this. When I put a new set of quality mounts (engine and gearbox) on my 110 the difference was night and day.

I think the OP had the turbo and hoses renewed.

I don't know if it follows that if Switzerland do something then it necessarily makes it easy for other governments to follow suit? From what I know of Switzerland from just visiting a few times is they seem to be more strict on what you can and can't do which is generally accepted by the citizens, more so than would be in the UK. I am broadly in favour of EVs and think they are a good thing, however for a long time I have questioned if there is enough resilience in our grid to cope with a mass change from ICE to EV. I'm not convinced there has been enough thought into long term green energy production that truly gets us away from burning gas. I don't accept many arguments against nuclear; one being the plants take a long time build before they come on line - surely that is an argument to actually hurry up and start building more rather than add even more delay by dithering. It is a serious concern that IF there is not the capacity in the grid then people would have difficulty to cook meals or heat their homes unless charging of EVs is somehow managed.

Check for air leaks in the fuel system very methodically starting from the injectors as suggested above. One additional thought, has this started to happen since it started to get colder? A healthy 200tdi should fire up with little to no glow plugs, but an elderly tdi may need the glow plugs to be in good order to fire up on the first spin. Worth a look if you don't find any air leaks in the fuel system.

Have you got power to the stop solenoid on the injection pump and can you hear it click open?

A white wire is unfused live when the ignition is on. Green wire is the fused version of a white wire.

IIRC, for the fuel gauge to read full the sender is putting up high resistance, resistance falls as the float drops with fuel level. Gauges can fail, so can senders and so can wiring/earths. I would start investigating the wiring and earths. I don't know if the wiring is different on an 1986 model? On my 1988 the gauge is fed a 12v supply (green wire) and the sender earths the circuit (green/black wire) via a variable resistor. The body of the gauge must also be earthed. Ensure the earth to the gauge body is sound first as I think this will cause it to read full if it isn't a good earth. To test the gauge; remove the guage and feed the it with 12v, earth the terminal that goes to the sender and see what happens, then earth the body of the guage and see what happens.

Today I am a little closer, my 110 flew through it's mot. I think the first time since I have owned it, no major faults and no advisories! It will soon be on the market so I can get a newer 110. After seeing a few defenders (td5 and onwards) on the market and test driving them, as well as listening to the sage advice from members of this forum, particularly @Happyoldgit, I have narrowed my search to a Puma 2.4 or if I'm lucky a 2.2Tdci 110 Station wagon XS spec. It will be a day of mixed emotions when I part company with my 1988 110 after 14 years.

Thank you, any advice is gratefully recieved. PM sent.

Thank you for the responses. I think I have my answer that I need to include this in my budget for a Puma Defender. I'm leaning towards the 2.4 version if I see the right one for me. My 200tdi 110 is having its Mot this week, then it will be on the market.

I guess that depends on your view... VW/Audi who won't care once the engine has done over 60k miles or 3 years service, or the owner of a 4year old/61k miles+ car.

Ah, so they make a clattery kind of noise if they are suspect?

Sorry to resurrect an old thread... I'm checking out a bunch of Puma powered Defenders with a view to replace my 110. Routine replacement of a timing chain is news to me. Are there any obvious signs of a worn chain I can look for whilst inspecting a prospective 110? I take it that if I buy one with no known history of chain replacement then I should budget for getting it sorted?

I usually frequent the Defender forum, but on this occasion I'm asking for a friend. A colleague of mine has a 2018 Discovery 5 with a 2.0 Ingenium Diesel engine. It has been off the road for a few months due to investigations at 2 independant Land Rover specialists of sudden stopping of the engine and a knock from the engine. Now the car will not attempt to start at all. There are no fault codes being given, the battery has been replaced, the engine can be turned by hand to rule out seizure and the immboliser has been checked (I have no precise details on the checks to the immobiliser). The lights will come on on the dash, but when an attempt is made to start it all goes dead. Any insights to what this problem maybe would be very welcome as I have zero experience of this engine.

This is spooky, the algorithm wins again. Look what just popped up in my news feed... https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-lancashire-63399858.amp

On converted rail going road vehicles or rail head cleaning? Either way, I'd find it interesting to learn more.

I just saw this article that folks may find of of general Land Rover/railway related interest.

The injection pump solenoid wire is white as far as I know (ignition on live). There is a light green with green trace for oil temp and a blue with green trace for one of the wiper motor wires, could it be one of those?

The cheapest way I have found to use a solvent cleaner rather than aerosol cans is either: (1) If you have a cheap spray gun and compressor use it to spray gun wash thinner as the solvent to de-grease the parts. (2) If you don't have a spray gun and compressor, get a pump up spray bottle (as Fridge says above) to spray the solvent.

Pay someone with a steam cleaner to do it. Then you have no worries about getting yourself in a mess or where the oily mess is draining/soaking away to. Alternatively, place old cardboard under your land rover and use a solvent in a spray gun to get the worst off and let the cardboard soak it up. Then use a strong detergent such as gunk or a quality snow foam, let it dwell and then wash it off with a pressure washer. I did this and it works well.

All this discussion about magnets has taken us away from the big question... Is the oil black yet?

I fitted a set of 4 and it makes a real noticeable difference

For anyone interested, he has some available currently... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304631617879

Please share your secrets, I do maintenance but still manage to drink beer and get fatter