monkie

Its easy done. Had many a close call myself. I now put some red tape over the ignition lock to remind me not to do it when I'm doing work that means I shouldn't be turning the key.

I can understand why you think it, but it is a misconception that more blades = more air moved for a fan. More blades can however make a fan quieter. Given the clatter of the Tdi engines I can't say I've ever heard any difference between the two.

Okay, I will let you know if I have to towards Hertfordshire with work incase reb78 isn't able to get it to you for a while, or if he wants to drop it off with me on his travels past Yeovil. I'm finding myself coming down to the hospital in Truro quite a bit recently for work.

Is there a plan sorted? Am I meeting Landroversforever near the Steam Fair or standing down?

Looks like a good job from what I can see on the photo. It's certainly cheaper than paying a paint shop!

I will be in Leicestershire on Monday/Tuesday this week. Can anyone get it to Dave (Vulcan Bomber) so I can collect it?

Yes I could do that if I could meet you in Shaftsbury?

I'm based just off the A303 north of Yeovil if someone can get it near to me, I'm working alot at Royal Cornwall Hospital at the moment so I don't mind having a little trip for the last few miles to Camborne.

No, but a paper aeroplane does 😄

I use the Farecla G3 products. I get them online from Autopaints Brighton. They are very helpful.

Out of interest, now the new MOT has been running for a few months.... has anyone fallen foul of any of the regulations with a smokey/leaky old Land Rover?

There are a few specialist insurance companies, often advertised in Land Rover magazines. I find it best to call them to get a price rather than use a comparison website. I'm currently with Adrian Flux: https://www.adrianflux.co.uk/landrover/?gclid=CjwKCAjwwJrbBRAoEiwAGA1B_aV3T9k7R7PaZ2P9S2A4pe66OdqLccPQDRppOmpLyyW-6iZ7M4QbnBoCVRoQAvD_BwE

I did exactly that as an extra measure but I imagine it heated up within a couple of seconds of placing it into the housing before I could tap it in. I was quite surprised by how long the swivel housings held the heat.

Actually I have just found this in the technical archive if anyone is interested. I will put a couple of pctures up though of my knackered chrome swivel bearing housings. Also it was not easy to put the new lower bearing into the new swivel bearing housing. In the end I put the new swivel bearing housing in the oven for 20 minutes then tapped in the bearing with a soft faced mallett.

Thanks - I did the long method on the near side and then tried the above suggestion on the off side. It was very fast on the strip down (just have to be prepared for the weight of the whole hub assembley). I encountered a problem though on the rebuild - I couldn't put the lower swivel pin in as the brake disk was in the way and it is hard to see what you are doing, so I stripped down the hub assembley to put the lower pin in and the housing back on the swivel. I took photos of this method if anyone thinks it might be helpful in the future unless it is well covered ground already?

I haven't come across lockwire on the 19J and 12Js I have worked on. Just a dab of threadlock.

Yes. Same on a 12J.

It looks like my £65 Bearmach Swivels are coated in something..... ....Now the small task of old ones off and fitting these new ones.

I thought the Tdi engines had the breather pipe from the cyclonic filter enter the induction system after the air filter unlike the 12j and 19j? I know my 300tdi did.... The oil ended up in the intercooler rather than the air filter. I have heard of someone using an inline filter from a compressed air system to remove oil mist in the breather. Not tried it myself but it sounds sensible to me.

Yes, too small for your requirements: Just a thought though. http://www.paddockspares.com/anr4636pm-16x5-5-lwb-rim-tube-type-o-e-manufacture-black-primer-coated.html

Do you want new or second hand? If second hand have a look round a breakers yard, they can be hit and miss but you can stumble across a bargain if persistent. Do you not want the original type of steel wheels? You can get those quite cheap.

I'll be pleased if the £65 Bearmach swivels are teflon coated for the price, I'll let you know! I've had good and bad with things out of blue boxes. For seals I know they are no good. I too have gone for the Corteco seals. If a part isn't safety critical and is quite easy to take on and off again I will admit that I do go for Britpart. I think I've only ever sent one thing back because it was not up to the job (I can't remember what it was now) and hats off to Paddocks for sorting it out quickly with no fuss. I do remember fitting a cheap rear crank seal that held for 30 seconds or even less before oil came gushing out. After much frustration, swearing and taking the engine out again I replaced it with a genuine seal and not a drop came out. Lesson learnt🙄

Wow, £220 each. I'm going to go for the £65 Bearmach ones and cross my fingers. The picture does look like it is coated with something but for £65 this might just be a stock image. We'll see. I fitted new seals 3 years ago and just buffed up the old swivel housings to remove some damage from corrosion. I'm amazed the seals have lasted this long if I'm honest considering it was a bit of bodge job just to stop the leaks with out forking out for new swivel housings. Thanks for your help.

Another vote for white spirit. What ever solvent you use make sure all the residual fumes have evapourated before refitting. Don't be tempted use anything caustic as a cleaning agent on aluminium parts.

Thanks Ralph, that is what I thought but I got confused on this link when it mentioned ABS..... https://www.lrdirect.com/FTC5105-Swivel-Hsg-Ball-90-110Rr-Ds-Abs/ Also can you get ones that are coated with a corrosion resistant material?