4X4byV8

As above most likely a half shaft... even if its diff you will need to remove the shafts to get it out, so you may aswel pull them out and have a look. I would recommend buying second hand original stuff. 20 quid on a genuine original shaft or 30quid on a new one thats made from cheese string! no comparison!

I run a webber 400cfm carb on edelbrock manifold on my off roader. It sits level normally but obviously off roading aint level! I used to get problems with the carb overfuelling as the floats would stick open on incline or decent. Found I could get an 'offroad kit' for it, which basically replaced the float needles with sprung loaded ones that had a viton rubber tip to the seats. since fitting them I can honestly say ive never had problems since. I offroad regularly and compete and I would not swap the setup I have! I am even in the 20's with mpg on the road which for a series landrover aint bad! see if theres any kits available for your carb, or you may do a couple of plug chop tests. do a few with it on the angle then try it with the wedge plate in and no bonnet. see if theres much of a difference betweeen the 2.

Definately gearbox? if it still sounds like a 'tapping' even going up through the gears then could it not be somthing slower turning? The only reason I say this is because you said its fine in low range, it may be to do with the dog clutch engaging the front prop for 4 wheel drive. maybe the 'clunk' you heard had somthing to do with it knocking in when it shouldn't have and now its damaged somthing. but fully engaging 4 wheel drive may cover up the issue. I could be completely wrong but it may be worth a check before you rip the box appart to find its somthing more simple Try getting up to road speed in high range, then, still rolling, keep the clutch pressed down and pull the red lever to neutral. if the noise is still there then you know its after gearbox (anything that is being back driven by the wheels) if the noise goes then its somthing in the gearbox or the top of the transfer box (because these parts are now stationary) you could also do the same thing but have the main box in neutral and keep the transfer in gear this would also test the output shaft of the main box. by listening for the noise using process of elimination you should be able to pinpoint it.

The load is quite far forward of the axle so you have to remeber alot of the weight of the trailer is on the hitch. If the trailer weight is say 300kg.. there may only be 200kg on the axle (at a guess from the picture). Thats only 100kg per wheel which the indespension units would hardly notice, especially when the rubber is old. It probably feels like there is no suspension at all knowing those things. Trailers are normally designed to almost be balanced on there axle(s), so wheel becomes the pivot point of the load. The way yours is set up I would suggest trying softer indespension units or something a bit more forgiving. or you could always lower your tire pressures even up to 30% for the weight that is on them. I would expect the trailer to behave alot better if you take some of the air out, so that the wheel wont bounce off the tarmac as much (the tire will absorb more of the energy as opposed to storing it)

check out http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage.php They have a good range of old style lucas equipment. if they dont have it on the website give them a call as most of the time they can get hold of it. As for the brake light switch it may be a pressure switch fitted to the first branch from the master cylinder. I changed my 2a one to a push type that is mounted on the master cylinder, it operates off the push rod. I found it more reliable and you can set its operation to the positon of the pedal easily. Doesn't stay on or flicker if the brakes are a bit slow at operating.

does the bearing separate from the metal extension piece? That is a standard size bearing aside the extra black part. I run a standard clutch system on my 2a v8 hybrid, to shorten the distance to the pressure plate from the gearbox there is an extra thick triangular piece in the contact face of the pressure plate (ill try upload a photo to make it simpler) this is the same idea with yours except yours happens to be on the thrust piece side.

where are you based duncan? Ive got a 'M' reg discovery had front impact so its been sitting in the field waiting to be broken up for the last 4years. Its complete all bits are spare except for the gearbox we want to keep as its a recon unit 20k ago.

sorry for the slow response. yep ive got paypal. i'll take the backplates off tomorrow and weigh them first to see what the post will cost and PM you back. I'll mark on them left and right (the snail adjusters point forward on the axle)

from what I understand series 1+2 box internals are the same,early 2a is different. then late 2a and 3 are the same (fully synchro) however there are variations on ratios which can be found easily on the internet. i dont know about the bell housing compatibility. all the series boxes mount and bolt in in the same way if you do a complete swap

when i ordered a pair of defender mirrors they turned up in britpart boxes but i thought theres surely no way even sh*tpart could get mirrors wrong... the lens fell out the second time i drove it out.

8quid the pair sound ok? + whatever post costs me (got an account with tnt though) did you need any of the other bits like drums? im pretty sure there still smooth

did you just fit the 1 ton shackles with no other modifications? did it make much improvement?

dont know about the swapping.... ive got a spare series 3 axle i could take the back plates off if you cant fit the defender ones. 10" leading+ trailing.

Back off the shoes and grab the drum see how much play there is. The seal wears out because of excessive movement of the output shaft, this can be either loose castle nut on the drum or the output shaft bearings need tightening. There are shims between the transfer box and speedo drive housing, these are removed to take up the slack in the bearings. Its worth taking the speedo unit off to help remove the seal anyway. Also there is a felt seal on the output shaft to be changed, its the same as used in the axle halfshafts.

ive got the performer setup on my 3.5 (an investment by a previous owner) but as everyone knows not good off road. I spoke to the guys at v8 tuner who said persevere with it before spending money or changing too much. Have you guys used the edelbrock before if so how did it work for you and did you give up with it?

If its not ignition I would say its fuel vapourisation. Have a feel of the carb next time its playing up see how warm its getting, really it should be protected by a phenolic spacer to stop heat transfer to the carb. If you have clear fuel lines you'll be able to see it pushing the air back. Also make sure fuel lines and filters are away from heat as best as possible. A good fix is to have a return line back to the tank from a swirl pot or a regulator with pressure bypass. This allows a cool circulation of fuel close to your carb. If your running carbs?

Im running 235/8.50 R16's on 7" rims with 30mm wheel spacers I have no problems with getting around corners. Ive set the steering stop bolts to allow the swivel seals to swing right around, but not enough to deform on the inner edge. This still allows 20mm of clearance to the leaf spring. Check all your steering arms settle at MID POINT when your wheels are facing forward, they then cant be on full lock before the wheel is.

could always use more than 1 alternator. theres a bit of messing around getting it mounted but its a much better long term way of keeping systems seperate but still reliable. depends if you use the winch enough to justify having a second full time alternator

you'll need an adaptor plate. if its got a 9" clutch in there i would suggest at least the 9.5" diesel clutch or a taxi clutch like i put in (good for lots of clutch use at high rev's). you'll also need to make up some mounts, there may be a set ready made on the market but mine are just 3 pieces of plate welded together using the same chassis points. the standard oil filter on the v8 fouls with the front diff, ive put a 101 pump body and filter housing on there. only other problem if your using the standard radiator you may need to move the lower port to the far left and the top port to the far right.

hi everyone, thanks for the replies i got. I had the box out, on the bench and split open. Its now ready to go back in once ive got the last coat of paint on the steelwork. I came across a few problems with the gearbox that I thought would have been quite major, but it had still been working up until I removed it... trusty landrover!! A few of the problems were- rear nut on the mainshaft (in the transfer box) had unscrewed completely back to the point it wore the rear bearing housing out, this was the main issue as all gears on the mainshaft, when in neutral were still engaging. second gear drive dog was chewed off where first gear cog comes on to engage.. hence the jumping out of second. The first gear on the layshaft had its days, ive been told its common to see them like this as its also what takes the pain when you hear that CRUNCH going into reverse. mainshaft distance sleeve had broken up, ive replaced it with a new type as the manual says to. here it is compared to an original complete one- The mainshaft pegs were broken off because of the mainshaft distance sleeve spinning. They ended up flush in the shaft so I replaced the holes with our spark eroder. You may just be able to make them out- I still couldn't believe the landrover drove along without more problems than second gear.

thanks for everyones input. ive managed to find the fault, when i had the top cover off i noticed the 2nd gear stop bolt had been incorrectly set, the selector fork wasn't engaging the gear completely on the shaft. it had only been running on half the teeth, thats bad enough with the standard engine but im suprised its lasted me this long with the v8 in there. I could have just adjusted the stop to run on what was left of the teeth but that would be a complete bodge so ive now got the box out. im very suprised with the condition of the rest of it, it all appears to have no other wear or damage but i cant seem to explain how it kept locking up, i hope that'l sort itself out once its rebuilt. Got a 9.5" taxi clutch to go in there too

thanks for responding. if its not too bad a job ill get the box out either way, id have to if ive lost second. all the other gears select fine as they did before, second gear will only just reach the edge of the teeth but no go in... could it possibly be a dislodged synchro spring? I wouldnt have thought its the clutch, but that is on my list of things to replace anyway as its still standard 9"

hi im new on here... i have used the search but had no luck with finding what i wanted. Basically im going to do an overhauld job of a series 2 box, ive heard of rebuild kits for these but wanted to know what you guys recommend? where and what to buy etc? Im not sure on the reason for the box failing but its probably somthing to do with having a v8 bolted to it. Its never been happy going into second gear, despite the fact its meant to be synchro meshed in all gears but first. It now won't go in second at all, the transmission will also lock up if the vehicle rolls in gear with the clutch down. Also it will (only now and again) try and stall the engine when releasing the clutch in neutral. Despite all this it will still drive and move along happily. Ive drained the oils and had no bits come out with it... hopfully thats not because any pieces are bigger than the drain plug If anyone has a clue what the symptoms mean i would be greatful to hear what you think. Box should be out in the next week or so anyway...