Roverbo

Hi Graham, This is what I intend to do on the short run. But it simply annoys me, that everything seems to be running like it should, but still gives this high CO and HC. It smells pretty rich too. I will look for a s/h y-pipe with Cats, just for the test... /Bo

Hi, The Range Rover just passed the MOT, except a remark for high CO and HC. The CO was 3.7% at idle! Quite high, as its a 1990 V8 with cats (should be under 0.5%). My first thoughts was a defect lambdasensor or wrong fuelprogramme. I have the Rovergauge software, but strangely everythings seems to be OK, lambda readings swing +/- 15 % short term, and +/- 5% long term. Readings from TPS and MAF seems to be OK too. MAF CO-setting (blue-red wire, ignition on, motor not running) is 1.7 Volts, and on the web i´ve found different opinions on this topic, some says that this value is omitted when running the cat-programme, other that different values has to be set for different chips, and that it will change the CO at idling....any opinions to this? So whats wrong then ? I defect cat is the only obvious thing? Oh yes, there´s another subject - I changed the exhaust from cats and downstream a half year ago, cheap parts from paddox, but the first muffler is sadly falling apart inside by now (rattle and very resonant at high speeds). Could a restriction in this cause the problem? The chaps at the MOT treats my car as it was a non-cat, so I can probably get it through next time by changing the tune resistor to Non-cat or Non-cat Australia (the most "lean" programme?), but I would rather find the problem... Regards Bo

LEDs are dimmable, but what differs them from ordinary bulbs, is that the colour temperature of the light won´t change (getting warmer when dimmed). No problem in your car, but you can´t get a cozy feeling in your kitchen, living room etc. with a dimmer.

Hi, Copy/paste from britishv8.org (link) Tune Resistor A Tune Resistor was originally specified in the wire harness so that one ECU part number could serve multiple vehicle markets. (Multiple computer programs could be stored within the ECU, and the ECU could "decide" which one to use based on what resistance it sensed.) One leg of the Tune Resister was wired to terminal 5 of the ECU, and the other leg was spliced to ground. At some point during 14CUX production, Rover apparently decided to eliminate the Tune Resistor. (According to Rover service literature, this started with VIN number LA451517.) It isn't clear from the literature whether any US-market 14CUX systems would be effected by having an incorrect or damaged tune resister. The following information on Tune Resistors is based on Rover service literature. Visual inspection of wire color codes will allow you to quickly differentiate between resistors. White 3900 Ohms USA and European vehicles with catalytic converters Green 470 Ohms UK and European vehicles without catalytic onverters Yellow 910 Ohms Saudi vehicles (without catalytic converters.) Red 180 Ohms Australia and "the rest of the world." Note: all four types of Rover Tune Resistors were rated for 0.5 Watts.

Would it be possible to show us non-UK foreigners some of the mentioned frontpages? And who is Mark Philips? I´ve seen him in an old TopGear videoclip (on Youtube), where he´s presented as "...some of the best people drive Range Rovers..."

Thumbs up, Robert! I wish I had the obdII compatible system like yours, would make faultfinding a lot easier indeed...

Sorry, Robert, haven´t read the start of this topic before now, if your V8 is a 2001, it will be OBDII, and many workshops will have equipment to read out your faults. I guess you can buy a small blackbox thingy to plug into your laptop as well.

Hi Robert, swopping your MAF to a known "good one" would be the easiest way to find out. There must be a forum member near you? (I´m in Denmark...). The Lucas 14 CUX ECU was the last non-OBD compatible system used by LR, so you´ll need a Hawkeye tool or a Rovacom computer to get fault reports. Last models for the US market had a LED display to read faultcodes (demand for the non-monopoly legislation, I think).

Hi Escape, Sorry, i gave away the extra gear to the new owner (i sold the 1976 3.5 about three years ago). Then there was a short period where I thought that i could be happy with my old Volvo 745, but then this nice 1990 3.9 was for sale, and I was back to "The english disease"... Edit: Just found the big part (top). It has some surface rust, its weights 550 gr. and the postage would be 10 Euros to The Nederlands. It would be a better deal to order a new part from paddock, I guess? I recall that the original part was a combination of hard plastic and steel (to reduce weight?) - It was stamped "Morse, USA", The finish was far better. Let me know...

Yep, the combined cooler is brilliant - untill the moment where the transmission oil pipe is corroded by the water, and you start to loose water in mysterious ways...then you discover that your atf oil is like strawberry milkshake, and the gearbox starts to act strange. Seems like I´ve saved the box with several oilchanges - it acts almost normal now. But I will never buy a secondhand combined radiator again.

Hi elbekko, When I changed chain and gears on my old 3.5 some years ago, i had the opposite problem, it was too tight. So what I used was one old gear (the bottom one), one new, and the new chain. These were cheap parts in noname boxes from Paddocks, maybe there´s an issue with the tolerances...

Why not a C 303 ? These are very cheap to buy in Sweden (appr. SEK 35.000 on swedish plates), and in the mud or in the woods they´ll beat my Rangie anytime...could even take the title "the worlds most ugly car" ... i love them, they´re on my "cars I must own before I die" list

Hi reggie, You can find exploded views of the brake lines in the parts cataloque. There are many versions, but they´re all listed from page 300 and forth... http://www.kuririn.d...s%20catalog.pdf Regards Bo

I found that the best offer was at mm-4x4.com - I bought a new box (Adwest), because exchange wasn´t really an option for me (I live in Denmark). But they do sell recon units as well, these are from Adwest too. Or maybe buying directly from Adwest was an option? /Bo

Hi Dollywobber There´s a schematic in this complete manual link to landroverresources.com Better than just guessing/measuring/wondering... Good luck with your Rangie. I can accept some flaws too, "it ain´t a new car" but the electric features is really a nice part of the luxury of owning a Classic. Oh, and to your anti-corrosion: I would wait at least a week after pressure washing, to be sure that the bottom is really dry. Rust never sleeps, so better not hide any water under your wax. Regards Bo

Yes. According to RAVE you´ll need a new bushing for the sensor. This bracket is really a piece of [rusty outrigger] - stupid construction - but you can cut a slice in it (be carefull with the angle grinder), bend it to the side to get room for the socket, do the swivel job, and bend it back (that´s how i did it). There´s no load on the bracket except for the brakelines, so i don´t figure any harm done. Regards Bo

Hi Spearos, I made a tool to get the tracking more precise...IMHO a tolerance between 2mm toe-in and 2 mm toe-out can make the difference...see the pictures in this string.. My link Regards Bo

Some people may have that "chromed sight" - TBO I was always unsure if it was aligned, 2 mm toe-in or 5 mm toe-out So I made a tool to get a more accurate measure. Cheap and simple - 15 mm copper-pipe, some solder, a 6 mm nut and a 6 mm screw. It´s the thingy on top of the toolbox: The pipe measures apprx. 126,5 cm (feel free to convert to imperial measures if you like ) Lousy soldering, I know that, but it works...use iron and weld instead if you like. Or epoxy glue. So down under the Rangie, place the stick between the inner back-edge of the rim. Adjust the screw to tight fit. Then measure the inner front edge - you get the idea. But as mentioned, this was only fine tuning, the new steering box gave the big difference... Regards Bo.

Had the same problem with my 1990 Vogue, shifted all balljoints, bushings, steeringdamper etc. to new parts, got a little better, but I still didn´t feel safe on the highway. A new steering box really did the job. Still not like driving a german car - but steady like an (very) old Volvo . Changing the dampers to Bilsteins removed most of the "I can feel every little stone on the tarmac"-feeling. You could give it a thought to mount the anti roll bars that came with the 1991-models. You´ll need new dampers, links and to weld on your frame, (thats why I didn´t...), but according to reviews from then, it was a great improvement to stability. /Bo

Well, that´s what I did - or, more accurate, I changed the inline filter (really got my hair de-greased from the petrolspraying ). Back in the drivers seat, out from the driveway, pedal to the metal (or "genuine floormat/rubber/unknown stuff in several layers", that is..) - but still no 182 horses - 55 maybe - ok, 65... OK, so it wasn´t the fuelfilter, then maybe the ignition or - even worse - the ECU (Did I hear someone saying "Megasquirt" ?)... But it felt like some kind of starvation, so just for my own peace of mind, I checked the air filter box. Problem solved: What this picture shows is my oilstick cloth. I like to keep it in the engine compartment. It was sucked in by the vacuum! Thanks for your advice - and remember - always check the obvious! /Bo

..you really got me scared now... I cross my fingers for the fuel lines...or...some other cheap stuff.... Edit: Hey, the TC and the pump is sort of "before" the selector-stuff, isn´t it?

Hi, yes, the level is OK, color still bright red... Why do you suspect the autobox, how should all the torque sort of "disappear"?. It still shift perfectly smooth in the usual pattern, all gears + kickdown + lock-up working. I drove home from the weekend (250 kms) in this state, and had no problems with high temps, smoke, noises. Just low power. Had to drive behind the trucks, really sad /Bo

Nope, same problem when starting from cold...and no vacuum in the tank. Normal buzz from the rear when turning the ignition on, then silence after some seconds (as it should be). I´ll go for the fuel-trace first, renew the inline-filter and old tubing...hope I´ll find some time for it tomorrow. Thanks for the advice. Regards Bo

Hi, Yesterday my Rangie lost at least 50% of its power. I was driving 100 km/h and suddenly I noticed that "nothing" happened when i steppeed the gas down - very strange. The revs was maxed at appx. 3.000, and a step-down was the only way to accelerate further. But even then, I couldn´t get it over 110 km/h. This was on a longer trip in Sweden, and the car had acted quite normal for the last 200 km. Temperature is normal, no smoke, no pinking, unusual noises. Idle stable and normal. No signs of blown headgasket etc. No misfiring. My ignitioncables are newish (two years old genuine). Newish airfilter. Nothing strange, except for the lost power... With the vehicle holding still, gear in neutral, I can rev it up as normal, so it´s sort of lost torque. What I have tried was disconnecting the battery to reset the ECU (thought it was in "limp home state"), but no change. What I´m thingking is wrong ignitiontiming or fuel starvation - but why? What would you look for? Ideas, please... /Bo Oh, forgot to say: 1990 RRC V8, ZF Automatic. Driveline from a 1993 (non-serp. 14 CUX ECU).

Sorry, you´re right (just checked in RAVE). But I still think that the problem comes from "the front end" ie - the pump. If one of the control valves in the block was leaking, the corresponding brake caliber would be pushed, wouldn´t it? I mean, the pressure cant just disappear into "nothing"? We are talking about a fluid @ 160 bar. As the original workshop manual says, you would see the leak (dripping). So when pressure is lost, the only way it can go without braking or dripping, is back through the pump - or am I totally wrong about this?