Jinx Reyneke

Thanks for that guys, yes the three way pipes have been checked out and on one of the many re-filling of water I discovered a block. got that sorted. and the other hoses have also been checked out as well. The heater is not connected at all. What's got me baffeled is when had the head and block were skimmed. I sent both to be pressure tested. And apparently all is well.

Hi All, Please could someone guide me before I invest in 5lt of petrol and a box of matches. 300tdi engine keeps on over heating, but in a strange way. While driving noticed the temp gauge getting too high and changed water pump and thermostat. But what happens is after putting in water and anti freeze and bleeding the system, when you start the water in just a short time 2 min. is forced passed the pressure cap, which is new also and replaced at least twice since. Resulting in almost no water and overheating. Explanation of what I have done so far: Took it to a radiator specialist they tested for leak from the head. nothing just pressure. This exact problem started about 50-000km ago. Have taken it into reputable Land Rover workshop, they did a complete overhaul. Not even 1500km down the road same thing started again. This time new head and gasket. same thing. Then did a new head gasket myself, this lasted about 10-000km and same again. Again took it to Land Rover specialist they put a new head and gasket, water pump, thermostat, radiator cleaned and service by rad specialist. I have since striped the engine completely. Head went to specialist and skimmed, block skimmed. All new bearings, rings, oil pump and plate and gaskets, new water pump and thermostat. Every part put back according to manual step for step everything torqued. Drove about 35km nice a slow for first drive since the rebuild and noticed that temp normal but oil pressure dropped from 3 bar to about 1.2 bar. Stopped and the thing was over heated and boiling. After putting in more water and started the engine water was again forced out passed the pressure cap? Who can help?

Hi guys, I have a disco2 2001 V8 manual with ACE. Problem was that clutch slave was leaking and pedal when switched off would some times stay down on the floor. No real problems gear changing but you did have to at times hook the pedal back up. I ordered new slave and master. Have fitted the slave no problems there. But on the master the part that I was sent is a little different to what is in the car at the moment. the old has a small bell/disc shaped thing attached to it facing downwards. with nothing connected to it either. The new has no such thing at all. I followed the fluid line and find no other sensor anywhere. Question what is this bell/disc shaped thing and what does it do? Can I go ahead and fit new one without this bell/disc thing? Blessings Jinx

Sounds good. Last year went through the Kwando river Nambwa park and to Nunda lodge and onto Etosha. This year going through Chobe in Botswana, down the Caprivi to Kwando river a place called Nambwa. Then we want to make a trip through the Khaudum and lastly the Koaka Veld. But Money will make the final decisions. Much of this trip will just be the one Disco2 Thanks for all the advice. I hope I can get it all sorted before we go in September.

Thanks so much, I'm going to investigate a bit more and I hope that I can get it done.

I have a D2 v8 3,9.2001model It has the high/low range but without the sideways option of diff lock as was in my defender 130. It does however have traction control. Question; Is it possible to have a mod done to have the traction control and diff lock? In other words just change the High/low leaver for one that will do the diff lock as well. The transfer box looks to be the similar to the defender's transfer box. I am planning a trip to Namibia and WILL be going through long stretches of very deep soft sand. With lions and hyenas around don't quite fancy the idea of digging and so on. Would apreciate some advice.

Hi Guys, I recently bought a Disco 2 model 2001 v8 4.0 XL Manual. It goes so well. Just this morning a couple of warning lights came on and stayed on. they are ABS, Traction Control & Air lift. Strange thing is that I have the conversion done and had coils put in and so the Air Lift has been switched off. Question: what should I be checking? Or where. There are loads of similarities to my defender but this whole braking and traction control is new to me. Any Ideas? thanks

Thanks - busy getting to crank seal now..... will let you know what i find. Thanks guys Jinx

Hi Guys, I have a 300tdi 96 model. Have just recently rebuilt the whole engine. All was well. Then I began to notice oil "damp" all over the engine and could not find the leak. But have noticed more and more oil.As soon as the engine gets to working temperature the oil pressure slowly drops. Now have discovered that the oil is leaking from the timing belt cover drain plug. Question. Which seal is likely to be leaking? And why would the pressure drop? Would appreciate help or suggestions as I've already left on a 7000km trip through Southern Africa. But am still in a place where I can buy a few parts. Blessings Jinx

Recently changed fuel filter because saw exhaust smoke was quite black and becoming more and more over a few days. Also put in a new mechanical lift pump. As I was driving it felt aas if it ran out of fuel. But has a full tank. I put in an electric pump to bypass and the fuel is getting to injector pump but not coming out the other end where the pipes to injectors are fastened to pump. I suspect that dirty fuel has bunged things up. How do I check and clean SIMPLY as I am 100 of miles away from any pro help. Thanks Jinx

Rough stony roads take their toll. With aircon working used the indicator. the aircon fan in cab gave a few surges in time with indicator and no more aircon. And shortly after no more indicator either about 5 uses later. Took it to a auto electrician. Replaced flasher relay and aircon relay and a inline fuse for aircon. Happy days Then it happened the next day and back to auto elec. Now I'm back in the bush no auto elec, just me trying to trace a web of wires. I have found indicator flasher unit and aircon relay both shot. Replaced them. all working again but why is it blowing them? With a tester I have found a black wire from aircom relay going to an earth but it has 13V I tested from a good earth to this black wire separately and found the 13V, why would you connect power to the chassis? If you take the wire off the aircon stops working. Could someone help me out with a wiring diagram of how it should be. Thanks a bunch

Those look very much like what I have on my Landy BF Goodrich 235/85/16

Thanks very much. I was just worried that I was going to neglect a step. THANKS guys

Strange overheating problem eventually led to me taking off the head to check the gasket and the head for damage. Great news the head is perfect, but the gasket leaked from cylinder 1 to tri-angle water hole. Question; When replacing the NEW gasket and head and torque the head as per manual 40nm then each 60deg. then another 60deg. then some a further 20deg. Ok great! do I need to RE-TORQUE after about 1000km? This was common practice some time ago but I can't find anything about this on the 300tdi. Would really appreciate some advice.

Which part of the vacuum pump is broken each time. Is it he same every time? Could it be that where it fits into the motor that it is worn on the motor side or is not fitted into motor properly?

Hi I recently had a similar thing happen and it turned out to be the mechanical fuel pump. Changed it as well as the turbo to inter-cooler pipes. All smiles.

Hi Guys, I've been out of the loop for a bit. Very busy out here in the bush. Had a recent 2000km round trip. on the last 600km's started some strange overheating. 1)The radiator that is used for cabin heating sprung a leak through a long crack where the pipes and rubber hoses connect, on the top of the unit. I routed the hose in a loop excluding the heater radiator. Bought a new unit. 2)Still the temp kept climbing, changed thermostat. 3)Tried with no thermostat and blocked bypass pipe. 4)Flushed radiator and cleaned fins. 5)Put on new pressure bottle cap 6)Have tried all sorts of combination's of above. 7)Made the Viscous fan a fixed unit. Nothing doing still overheats The strange thing is that the pressure bottle fills with water and squirts out the bottle but the water is cool'ish But when you open the bleeder nut on the of thermostat housing just steam comes out. There is no water in the oil or oil in the water. So this build up of pressure makes me think itis a head crack or a gasket gone that allows gas to get into the water system. The whole engine was overhauled about 70-000km ago. Question: If I replace the head, there are a few different thickness of head gasket depending on the clearance. If I go for the thickest will it make any difference? I ask this as I'm way out in the sticks and need to do this myself and need to get the parts brought in. Would appreciate some comments. Sorry forgot to say it is a 96 TDI300

Just been a 3000km round trip from Central Mozambique to Northern Mozambique. TDI 300 130 went well. Fuel and turbo all sorted. Happy camper. I did notice at around 120km/h there seems to be a bit of a wiggle effect going on. It felt as though it was coming from the back. But at 120 it's difficult to tell. and also there is a shake on the steering between 70-80km. Question are they related? Where should I look. I'm thinking it's bushes. But have recently had them replaced and have done about 30-000kms since replacing. Admittedly most on shocking dirt, stone bush roads. Some clues where to look first would be appreciated very much

Thanks very much will put in a serious effort today to try and find the culprit.

Greetings all, I'm getting a strange sound which sounds like it is coming from between the engine and bulkhead. Whoosh sort of sound not the turbo whistle at about 2500-3000rev. But that happens only under load not when standing and rev in neutral. There is a loss of power just when you would like it to kick in. Question; Is it the turbo it's self as I don't think it has ever had any attention since new 1996 300tdi. What can be changed out in the turbo? Bearings? I would appreciate any ideas. It has new air, oil & diesel filters. Didn't make the blindest bit of difference.

often you get workshops that call themselves propshaft rebuilders. They often will cut the UJ yoke off the shaft and weld a new one on. Then they would balance the shaft in a lathe. Never done it myself but have seen it done. A place to ask is at a tyre and shock fitment center.

Im keen to see what the others think. I have had a few problems myself of late. You don't mention anything about fuses going so I suppose that they are not blowing. I was advised to check the loom where it goes over the chassis at the back where it goes to the tail lights and tow elec. plug.Is the battery not perhaps shorting on the battery box cover?

It may be something really simple like it has thrown a wheel balancing weight. Also do a quick check on wheel bearings by lifting each wheel in turn just off and wiggle is by hand side to side & top and bottom. If there is any play wheel bearing might just need tightening. But if you spin it and there is a rough sounding noise, bearing is shot. But if UJ's are fine I would have the prop shafts re-balanced. There is a outside chance if your break pedal on first push goes almost all the way down and second push is firm that a brake disc is bent.

The noise is there when you start and let it run for a while and then it disappears after quite a while. It now takes much longer to disappear now. But the moment you switch the air-con on it disappears. But there is still a faint squeak squeak sound. Just as a off chance is it about the size of the idle pulley bearing just below the air-con?

Hi guys; The air-con is standard TDI 300 1996 equipment. Their is a loud noise almost as though it is a dry bearing and I suppose going to seize soon. Has anyone removed the clutch pulley and replaced the bearing. A bearing size would be very helpful. And a few tip as I'm not too keen to take the whole thing (air-con)out.