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sierrafery

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About sierrafery

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    West of Transylvania

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  1. IIRC the bottom rear from the block goes into the port on the actuator which is close to the rubber gaiter, the pipe which is bent twice to 90 degrees there
  2. It's the same unit with superseded part number
  3. That's a bit exagerated statement IMO. I recently changed my 18 years old headlamps with brand new units and fitted Xtreme vision 130% bulbs, my friend with the original 15 years old facelift lamps(with LEDs) was very envious about my light ... he wanted instantly to fit that kind of headlamps but i discouraged him knowing that it's not easy(as in my first reply here) ... IMO the only benefit of facelift lamps is that they look better which for me is not enough especially knowing what happens if you have to change a bulb in the dark under heavy rain or snow on the side of a road... on pre-facelift takes max 3 minutes ... you tell me how fast you can change a bulb in a facelift lamp in bad weather
  4. Not without a lot of body work and wiring mods
  5. The receivers are two kind based on frequency. for UK you need 433mhz regardless of superseded part numbers but better buy new to be sure . better read all this thread
  6. read again my post nr 18. the alarm and immobiliser are interdependant if you see what i mean ... so set alarm to " not fitted" or "no alarm" or what ever that setting is named cos i forgot then you are sorted ... just go through all the settings untill the menu end and confirm that you change factory setings before you exit . good luck
  7. Even first generation hawkeye can disable the alarm, in the BCU - programming - you have to set the alarm to "not fitted" and passive immobiliser disabled...but you can't comunicate with the BCU while it's immobilised
  8. If the key works both ways then you can remobilise it with EKA code then connect hawkeye and disable the alarm/immobiliser, a main dealer must give the code to you FOC based on ownership evidence... though change the RF receiver maybe you are lucky then disable the alarm with tester
  9. You said in the first post that you can't unlock with the key it was not about locking... that microswitch has two positions one for lock and one for unlock so if it locks doesnt mean that the unlock side works too, the switch closes to earth for each command on a separate wire, lock on one and unlock on the other i edited the relevant part from the diagram... though try to unlock twice cos if it's set to single point entry then it will unlock all doors only on the second command and if it does youy might be lucky to be the receiver
  10. Hi, 1. yes, you can rule out the RF receiver as it's plug and play though it would have had effect only for the fobs functionality not the central (un)locking from driver's door which you described 2. interior fusebox is pug and play with the condition to disconnect the battery before the swap and after the reconnection turn ignition on II and let it so 5 minutes also the fusebox must be same type aka from pre- facelift or facelift 3. If the BCU is repaired by proffesionals then it should be plug andf play https://callrova.com/land-rover-discovery-2/ or https://www.turnerdiagnostics.com/land-rover/discovery-2/discovery-bcu-exchange.html
  11. If the BCU has some internal issue caused by water which is beyond surface leakage and the immobiliser is in ''solid'' state you can't start the vehicle whatsoever cos the security code which is shared with the engine ECU is affected, no way to bypass that at least i can't imagine one anyway dont do anything with the BCU without disconnecting the battery first
  12. You have to remove the glove box to reach the BCU, if it's replaced it needs complex programming with dedicated tester, all the connectors shown are connected to it
  13. Then most probably the BCU was ruined cos it's there behind the glovebox... fix the leak then replace the BCU
  14. It sems that the driver's door actuator has a problem with the microswitch which should send the unlock command to the BCU, this is a big problem cos you'll not be able to remobilise it with the EKA code, hawkeye or any other tester is useless while it's immobilised as the BCU doesnt comunicate then, the sunroof leak might have affected the interior fusebox so check that first, also you can try to replace the roof receiver maybe you are lucky to be that... if you can use the fob at least once then connect hawkeye and go in BCU settings to set the alarm to "not fitted" untill you fix it btw, after you lock with the key can't you unlock with the fob? cos that symptom which you described first is the "BCU sleep mode" and any action with the key should wake it up with the condition to not open the door untill the fob worked
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