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Everything posted by sierrafery

  1. If they have the correct number of teeth the resistance of the sensors must be checked with multimeter all around... if it's between 950 - 1100 ohm the system will pass the self test but if one or two are at the top end and others at the lowest the TC is mixed up, it's very sensitive so the resistances of the sensors should be as close as possible to each other but they vary within that accepted range according to manufacturers.
  2. Yes, remove the sensor from it's hole, mark one tooth then you can turn and count the teeth through the hole by rotating the hub
  3. Hi, if cheap hub was fitted prior of this erratic TC behaviour it's very possible to have the wrong number of teeth on the reluctor ring(55 instead of 60) so there are different inputs at the same wheel speed hence the TC kicks in considering it wheel slip... quite common
  4. You have to undo the wires coming out from the SVS switch pack and measure resistance as i explained... i dont know what you mean with pn 9/ red wire which has nothing to do with SVS while one wire of the SVS must go to earth and the other to the yellow/green wire pin 6 which goes to the ECU... somrbody didnt get this thing well that's your problem IMO
  5. Was the SVS switch pack replaced too or just rewired? anyway you'll have to measure resistance across the two wires coming out of it and you should get around 3KOhm with pedal released and 1K with pedal depressed... if you get these readings there is a wiring issue on that circuit(provided the connections were made as required)
  6. You should erase the fault codes cos there might be some hystorical then read again after the amigos are back...IMO you are too focused to that SVS thing while it's possible that now it's something else like a sensor signal issue, without using a proper tester it's just a guessing game which can be inefficient cos there can be many reasons for the 3 amigos others than SVS ,
  7. Change the air bleed valve in the rear outer port of the filter head (WJN500110)
  8. Support the body with two jacks at the rear as to have phisycaly even level then go to calibration with hawkeye and consider the jacks as being calibration blocks when it asks about them... then while it's still jacked read the sensor inputs, they should be close to each other... a common problem is bad contact in the sensor's plugs if the sensors are good
  9. Hi, there is only one p/n for the pipe with banjo on it is ERR4699
  10. The first suspect is the interior fusebox which can develop various issues due to water ingress/internal corrosion.
  11. Diesel can be a Td5 too which doesnt have a ''stop solenoid" and that symptom is caused by something else... so it's hard to say untill we dont know what year and engine is that vehicle
  12. Off course it's odd but as long as you dont say what kind of Disco you have it'll be hard to make an ideea
  13. For the best price/quality ratio i recommend these https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wheel-Bearing-Kit-BWK1273-Borg-Beck-TAY100060-Genuine-Top-Quality-Replacement-/332676821018?hash=item4d7515701a , i have them myself all around and IMO they are great
  14. The 3 amigos are related with the red brake(handbrake/low fluid) warning... it shoud be there all the time together with the 3 amigos according to the built in diagnostic protocol but in reality it isnt there only when ''solid'' current faults are logged mainly on sensors, see the attached doc(it's from the D2 workshop manual)
  15. It goes to a so called "antenna" used only on some japan specs
  16. If the ABS came on alone after 3 amigos went out the fault was one sensor related and the vehicle must exceed 10mph for the warning lamp to go out or if the fault is still present the 3 amigos will be back
  17. BCU = body control unit, a very complex electronic unit behind the glovebox which is responsible for various functions including central locking and indicators ... though the interior fusebox(IDM) is suspect as well cos it's very common to be affected by water or moisture, i doubt it's a relay cos there is one for each side... you should find a known good one on ebay from a non-facelift D2 and rule it out cos it's almost plug and play, all you have to do is to disconnect the battery first then after the swap and battery reconnection turn ignition on II and let it there 5 minutes to syncronise itself with the BCU, if you are unlucky enough to be the BCU the problem becomes more complicated cos it needs complex programming with dedicated tester... here's one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Discovery-2-TD5-V8-Interior-Fusebox-YQE000250/254150541492?fits=Car+Make%3ALand+Rover|Model%3ADiscovery&epid=652655038&hash=item3b2c8d80b4:g:K1EAAOSwkhxcfXXk
  18. Did you rule out 100% the fuse(F3) too?...also you need a tester to see the front fogs setting in the BCU cos there are 3 options: 1. Disabled = The vehicle is not fitted with front fog lamps. 2. Main = The front fog lamps will operate if the headlamps are on main beam. 3. No main = The front fog lamps will not operate if the headlamps are on main beam.
  19. My friend's car is also a 2000 one with plenty of miles but the police considered him to be the cause and unfortunately he hit a newish Audi A8 and paid for it's repairs(fortunately no one was injured)... so those retrofitted headlights costed him about twice the value of his old D2 😞
  20. An example which i've seen here myself was that the insurance company refused to pay to a friend of mine when he had an accident one night and he had retrofitted HIDs(not LEDs) so the company said that it could have been a factor due to the altered light beams... i'm sure that when it comes to payment they would invoke anything
  21. No, i have nothing against your plan i just dont see the benefit of having both dip and main beams on together . If that's what you want go for it just make sure you'll not annoy others in traffic when it's dark cos AFAIK LEDs have different beam than classic bulbs and an original LED headlamp reflector is different.... btw, are retrofitted LED headlights legal in Scotland? cos in most European countries if the vehicle was not factory fitted with them then it's a problem
  22. I understood what you are doing. believe me i know exacty how the factory fitted facelift headlamps are working and my statement remains the same... the dip beam is not supposed to be on together with the main beam from factory...dip beam + main beam can be on as factory setting only on scandinavian specs with enabled daylight running lamps... here are the official diagrams from RAVE so see that when Y165 is closed for dip beam the circuit is closed throug Y167 to dip beam circuit then when when Y167 is switched to the main beam circuit the dip beram circuit is opened... that's how it was built to work, adding relays is some owner's option but i am not a fan of it cos the lamp assembly can suffer from too much heat... that's why it's possible only on scandinavian specs cos there is colder climate
  23. I think you saw the wrong diagrams cos there is absolutely no factory fitted relay involved in the D2 headlamps operation, the lamps are getting direct feed through the lighting switch, simple as that, relays are present only if they were retrofitted
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