sierrafery

check what's in post 21

They can be related only if the fault is caused by the door switch circuit cos if the input to the BCU is like the door is open the compressor is disabled too

Maybe it's late reply but did you cut the switch wires and prolonged them out or you spliced into the circuit like in some tutorials ? also did you measure the resistances of the switch pack ?

Check fuse F33

Or you can go step by step in this https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/brand/key/land-rover/

I presume it's not a D2 then cos it should have gone to overboost at 1.42... if your's is an untuned 300tdi that 1.5 -1.6 bar is OK.

The simple solution is to replace the instrument pack with a known good one(preferably with lower mileage as it can be synk'd only upwards). Before that some troubleshooting would be good cos there is a slight chance to be a problem with the alternator or a wiring issue. Unplug the small connector from it and give earth to the brown/yellow wire(carefully to not touch the other pin)... if the warning comes on that way there's the problem

The instrument pack illumination bulbs shown in parts catalogues have nothing to do with warning lights which are smd LEDs soldered into the PCB and not listed as spares. If the "battery" warning light doesnt come on with ignition the problem is within the instrument pack .

If the pump got empty it's compuslory to purge it with outlet undone untill you get good flow then after it was started you must see serious activity in the tank, that's important or the pump will fail, as about bleeding the system there is a procedure with diagnistic tool but it's not so important as the air will leave the system after the ACE kicks in few times, the ''figure 8" driving is a good trick if you can do it fast

You can use that chart without fear cos they are the same for all... it should be hidden somewhere in Haynes manual too but maybe not visible enough

That's what "colour codes" are meaning, each letter is a colour code and when two codes are together(or 3 if one is ''light") the first is the main colour and the second is the trace, the list is shown in all LR electrical troubleshooting manuals/ electrical libraries and the codes are on all the diagrams

Just as a matter of fact, there are colour codes on that diagram 😉

You can't just do an invasive "immo off" on a D2 cos not only the ECM is involved, it's different than Defenders...there are some bodge methods which will not fix all the issues. If the vehicle os immobilised you have to remobilise it with EKA code then disable the immobiliser with dedicated diagnostic tool, that's the only ''clean" way to do it

What you describe seems more like overboost not MAF related especially if with it unplugged made no difference.. check the pipework connected to the wastegate modulator and if nothing obvious remove fuse F2 engine bay and make a drive test then... if the symptom goes away replace the wastegate modulator, if no change use a pump on the wastegate valve to see if it works or not also make sure it's not stuck

Measure voltage on the battery with ignition on crank and if the voltage drops hard you need a new battery.

The viscous fan is freewheeling untill the radiant heat of radiator heats up it's bimetalic coil to 72*C then it starts to lock progressively so it's definitely not supposed to be noisy on cold start regardless of outside temp

Depends on the last 8 characters of the VIN of donor D4 cos there are more options then google out the proper p/n from here http://new.lrcat.com/#!/12728/54909/55557/4451/55680 for example https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/152497/13274/_seat_trim_access_hole_cover___right_hand___almond___discovery_3___4___range_rover_sport

If the battery light comes on with those voltages the problem is on the warning lamp's circuit

Hi. Disregard the alternator. On the D2 the tachometer is managed by the ECM based on CPS input. Plug in a dedicated tester and if it shows the rpm the problem is on the signal path to the IP or the gauge

Hi, those sensors are not the best design and they fail quite often, IMO as long as you change the filter after every 5K miles or so that sensor is useless, unplug it and tie up the wiring as to not be hurt and that's it

Folow the steps and you'll get to what you need here https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/brand/key/land-rover/

First of all replace the alternator, dont run the engine if it's fubar cos it can cause serious trouble

Yes, SVS failure for that one you need to do this

Hi. that "016" must have a description, without that it's irrelevant but once the description is revealed the answer will come

You can work with a inline fuse holder which has wires too like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Maxi-Blade-Fuse-holder-splash-proof-waterproof-holder-free-fuse-8awg/281667851189?hash=item4194b653b5:m:mw2tqx9HUWfJF8L7Np5piqQ&var=580673049497 , the fuse is higher ampage than the wire gauge cos it's supposed to blow on a short to ground but for 300tdi glow plugs 40A fuse is enough