sierrafery

your guesses on the other faults are spot on... the "air flow..." fault is generated by the MAF sensor or it's wiring.

run a stall test maybe you'll get an answer...seems a clutch issue to me: Stall test $%44.30.1 Testing 1. Chock the wheels and fully apply the handbrake. 2. Start the engine and run it until it reaches normal operating temperature. 3. Apply the footbrake and select 'D'. 4. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and note the tachometer reading. The figures should be as given below. Do not carry out stall test for longer than 10 seconds, and DO NOT repeat until 30 minutes have elapsed. l V8: 2200 to 2400 rev/min l Diesel: 2600 to 2800 rev/min 5. A reading below 1300 rev/min indicates a torque converter fault, ie stator free-wheel. 6. A reading between 1300 and 2200 rev/min (V8) or between 1300 and 2600 rev/min (Diesel) indicates reduced engine power. 7. A reading above 2400 rev/min (V8) or above 2800 rev/min (Diesel) indicates clutch slip. NOTE: The figures quoted above were measured at sea level with an ambient temperature of 20 °C (68 °F). At higher altitudes or higher ambient temperatures, these figures will be reduced.

they're not expensive so the best is to replace both cylinders cos even if only one is gone the other which is new will put stress on the old and tired one and soon you'l have to replace it anyway.

the most certain answer will be revealed if you read the fault codes... The XYZ switch is the most common issue but those lights could have at least 15 other reasons, here is for the most obvious http://www.landrover..._860403nasf.pdf

yes, what you want to do was done before with success : http://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-ii-18/finally-completed-aftermarket-sls-compressor-instal-retrofit-31328/ ...imo u can put the compressor where ever you want ..e.g. in the boot too

IMO the compressor doesnt have the guts to inflate the bags hard anymore...cos as you said the management is working 1.the open compressor relay is logged since u swapped relays 197 and 199 will logg again after some time cos u have reset the duty cicle which is stored in the ECU and now it must run out again(dont ask me how long it is).. these faults are showing that the compressor overruns cos it doesnt give enough pressure while the height doesnt reach the desired setting fix the compressor or replace it

put a jack under the towbar and while the ORM is on start lifting the back with the jack...if at the ORM height the lamp will stop flashing it means the management works and the compressor even if it runs runs it doesnt have enough "guts" to inflate the bags.... it's quite common, there is a rebuild kit(orings and piston seal) somewhere on the ebay but i cant find the link now if the ORM will keep flashing with the back lifted then it's a management issue and needs further investigation

the air is held in the bags by the closed valves so if everything is OK removing the compressor must not affect the air ...the SLS system stays active quite long aafter the ignition is off so to be certain nothing happens u better disconnect the battery before you work there

did you try with a known good relay? cos that should be the first call if you say the compressor runs if you bridge it's contact(swap it with R3 for test), the fact that it stays on level doesnt mean the compressor works on normal height cos if there are no leaks it stays on level for long... and the best would be to read the stored fault codes before you guess further

the only ones which need reset after coil conversion are those related to SLS...the other ABS warnings are due to a fault, most commonly sensor/hub or SVS related... the fault code will reveal it

i suppsoed that the switch is there but you didnt notice it cos maybe somehow it's electric plug got disconnected and failed between other wiring or pipes as you cant see it. ...i can't see how cruise controll is cancelled by clutch if that switch is not there...couldnt you upload some pics about the master cylinder and the fluid line?

do you have cruies controll fitted? ..cos if yes this switch must be there somewhere .. go along the fluid line out of the master cylinder... actually i didnt hear about td5 engine management without this switch... isnt it screwed in the bottom of the nmaster cylinder? ...maybe it's plug has failed and that's why you cant see it

aaaaa.... if all the bulbs are good then the 300 loom mmust have a different resistance than the Td5 loom cos the indicators on Td5 are managed by the BCU(body controll unit) and IDM(intelligent driver module - integrated part of the fusebox) which senses any load difference and it takes the appropriate action, it's more complicated than non a D1: Direction indicator lamp failure detection The BCU uses the following logic inputs to determine if there is a direction indicator bulb failure or if the presence of a trailer is detected. The BCU uses the information to decide which output to enable at any particular instance: l Right direction indicators requested. l Left direction indicators requested. l RH indicators current sense. l LH indicators current sense. If a direction indicator bulb failure or a trailer presence is detected, the following outputs can be generated depending on the BCU logic states: l Trailer detected. l Bulb failure detected. l Direction indicator short circuit. l Direction indicator relay stuck. The BCU can be configured whether or not to provide bulb failure warnings. When the direction indicators are operating, instrument pack direction indicators flash in sequence with the exterior direction indicators. If a failure of an indicator bulb occurs, the corresponding instrument pack indication lamp will flash quickly to warn of the problem. The IDM monitors the current drawn through the circuit to detect for the occurrence of a lamp failure. If an indicator lamp fails, the IDM detects the drop in current drawn through the resistor and operates the indicator relay at a faster speed. The fast flash is demonstrated on the instrument pack direction indicator warning lamps to bring attention to the driver that a direction indicator bulb failure has occurred. The current sense for the related indicator lamps (RH or LH) are checked when a direction indicator request has been made that lasts for at least 160 ms. The current level sensed is relative to the number of working bulbs and determines the request generated by the BCU. The output is signalled to the instrument pack using the serial communications link. If the hazard warning lamps are operating, both sets of direction indicators are checked using the current sensing functions to check the number of bulbs on each side of the vehicle. If the BCU detects that a direction indicator request has not been made, but one or other of the current sense inputs indicate that current is flowing, a 'Relay stuck' output is generated. l The IDM can signal the instrument pack to illuminate a trailer warning lamp. This operates when the IDM senses that the current drawn by the indicator circuit exceeds a preset threshold. ....and so on ... you better download a RAVE and start studying the operation and the diagrams if you want to make a D2 work with D1 hardware

i'm not sure i understood well what do you need and what exactly you want with the actuators but if it's the D2 wiring you have it attached

Yes it's there together with the BCU and SLABS ECU ECU - ACE Remove 1. Remove BCU. +BODY CONTROL UNIT, REPAIRS, Body control unit (BCU). 2. Remove 5 multiplugs from SLABS ECU. 3. Remove multiplug from ACE ECU. 4. Remove lower nut and loosen upper nut securing SLABS and ACE ECU bracket to body. 5. Remove ECU's and bracket assembly. 6. Remove 3 nuts securing ACE ECU and remove ACE ECU. Refit 1. Fit ACE ECU to bracket and secure with nuts. 2. Fit ECU's and bracket assembly to body and secure with nuts. 3. Connect multiplugs to ACE ECU and SLABS ECU. 4. Fit BCU. +BODY CONTROL UNIT, REPAIRS, Body control unit (BCU). 5. If a replacement ACE ECU has been fitted, use TestBook to calibrate ACE system.(hawkeye or nanocom will do that)

you have the part number in the ebay link gave you.... usually the clutch switch is where i said but on facelift modells might be in the master cylunder too but it must have a connector , what you saw without connector is a damper.... u will see if it needs bleeding after you replace the switch if you lose pedal.

Seems like a lack of surge damping to me...my first call would be the clutch switch, it must "tell" the ECM to cut fueling when the clutch is depressed, it's near the fusebox to the rear of the engine bay, it's not expensive and easy to replace.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DISCOVERY-2-CLUTCH-DIESEL-CONTROL-SWITCH-OE-/280559139571

it seems a good theory... unfortunately they used to fail, expensive stuff, usually they leak out too... there is repair kit now but it's not cheap either http://www.paddockspares.com/td5-oil-cooler-repair-kit.html

here are the possible issues(from RAVE): The ECT sensor can fail the following ways or supply incorrect signal: l Sensor open circuit. l Short circuit to vehicle supply. l Short circuit to earth. l Incorrect mechanical fitting. l Signal fixed above 40 °C (104 °F) not detected. l Signal fixed below 40 °C (104 °F) not detected. In the event of an ECT sensor signal failure any of the following symptoms may be observed: l Difficult cold start. l Difficult hot start. l Driveability concerns. l Instrument pack temperature warning illuminated. l Temperature gauge reads excessively hot. l Temperature gauge reads excessively cold. In the event of component failure the ECM calculates coolant temperature from the fuel temperature sensor signal. If this occurs, the limit engine operation if coolant temperature is too high becomes inoperative.

why would you say that? ...i disagree

on the EU2 modells the oil cooler gets the coolant direcly from the rad and on EU3 from the EGR cooler

check the coolant temp. sensor's plug/wiring

hi, maybe this helps http://www.discoweb.org/tire.htm

just saw that... which warning light is on ... the ORM(with one arrow upwards) or the SLS(two arrows up/down)?

see this http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Injector_harness.html