sierrafery

The receivers are two kind based on frequency. for UK you need 433mhz regardless of superseded part numbers but better buy new to be sure . better read all this thread

read again my post nr 18. the alarm and immobiliser are interdependant if you see what i mean ... so set alarm to " not fitted" or "no alarm" or what ever that setting is named cos i forgot then you are sorted ... just go through all the settings untill the menu end and confirm that you change factory setings before you exit . good luck

Even first generation hawkeye can disable the alarm, in the BCU - programming - you have to set the alarm to "not fitted" and passive immobiliser disabled...but you can't comunicate with the BCU while it's immobilised

If the key works both ways then you can remobilise it with EKA code then connect hawkeye and disable the alarm/immobiliser, a main dealer must give the code to you FOC based on ownership evidence... though change the RF receiver maybe you are lucky then disable the alarm with tester

You said in the first post that you can't unlock with the key it was not about locking... that microswitch has two positions one for lock and one for unlock so if it locks doesnt mean that the unlock side works too, the switch closes to earth for each command on a separate wire, lock on one and unlock on the other i edited the relevant part from the diagram... though try to unlock twice cos if it's set to single point entry then it will unlock all doors only on the second command and if it does youy might be lucky to be the receiver

Hi, 1. yes, you can rule out the RF receiver as it's plug and play though it would have had effect only for the fobs functionality not the central (un)locking from driver's door which you described 2. interior fusebox is pug and play with the condition to disconnect the battery before the swap and after the reconnection turn ignition on II and let it so 5 minutes also the fusebox must be same type aka from pre- facelift or facelift 3. If the BCU is repaired by proffesionals then it should be plug andf play https://callrova.com/land-rover-discovery-2/ or https://www.turnerdiagnostics.com/land-rover/discovery-2/discovery-bcu-exchange.html

If the BCU has some internal issue caused by water which is beyond surface leakage and the immobiliser is in ''solid'' state you can't start the vehicle whatsoever cos the security code which is shared with the engine ECU is affected, no way to bypass that at least i can't imagine one anyway dont do anything with the BCU without disconnecting the battery first

You have to remove the glove box to reach the BCU, if it's replaced it needs complex programming with dedicated tester, all the connectors shown are connected to it

Then most probably the BCU was ruined cos it's there behind the glovebox... fix the leak then replace the BCU

It sems that the driver's door actuator has a problem with the microswitch which should send the unlock command to the BCU, this is a big problem cos you'll not be able to remobilise it with the EKA code, hawkeye or any other tester is useless while it's immobilised as the BCU doesnt comunicate then, the sunroof leak might have affected the interior fusebox so check that first, also you can try to replace the roof receiver maybe you are lucky to be that... if you can use the fob at least once then connect hawkeye and go in BCU settings to set the alarm to "not fitted" untill you fix it btw, after you lock with the key can't you unlock with the fob? cos that symptom which you described first is the "BCU sleep mode" and any action with the key should wake it up with the condition to not open the door untill the fob worked

does this help?

If they have the correct number of teeth the resistance of the sensors must be checked with multimeter all around... if it's between 950 - 1100 ohm the system will pass the self test but if one or two are at the top end and others at the lowest the TC is mixed up, it's very sensitive so the resistances of the sensors should be as close as possible to each other but they vary within that accepted range according to manufacturers.

Yes, remove the sensor from it's hole, mark one tooth then you can turn and count the teeth through the hole by rotating the hub

Hi, if cheap hub was fitted prior of this erratic TC behaviour it's very possible to have the wrong number of teeth on the reluctor ring(55 instead of 60) so there are different inputs at the same wheel speed hence the TC kicks in considering it wheel slip... quite common

You have to undo the wires coming out from the SVS switch pack and measure resistance as i explained... i dont know what you mean with pn 9/ red wire which has nothing to do with SVS while one wire of the SVS must go to earth and the other to the yellow/green wire pin 6 which goes to the ECU... somrbody didnt get this thing well that's your problem IMO

Was the SVS switch pack replaced too or just rewired? anyway you'll have to measure resistance across the two wires coming out of it and you should get around 3KOhm with pedal released and 1K with pedal depressed... if you get these readings there is a wiring issue on that circuit(provided the connections were made as required)

You should erase the fault codes cos there might be some hystorical then read again after the amigos are back...IMO you are too focused to that SVS thing while it's possible that now it's something else like a sensor signal issue, without using a proper tester it's just a guessing game which can be inefficient cos there can be many reasons for the 3 amigos others than SVS ,

Change the air bleed valve in the rear outer port of the filter head (WJN500110)

Wiring diagram for what?

Support the body with two jacks at the rear as to have phisycaly even level then go to calibration with hawkeye and consider the jacks as being calibration blocks when it asks about them... then while it's still jacked read the sensor inputs, they should be close to each other... a common problem is bad contact in the sensor's plugs if the sensors are good

Hi, there is only one p/n for the pipe with banjo on it is ERR4699

The first suspect is the interior fusebox which can develop various issues due to water ingress/internal corrosion.

Diesel can be a Td5 too which doesnt have a ''stop solenoid" and that symptom is caused by something else... so it's hard to say untill we dont know what year and engine is that vehicle

Off course it's odd but as long as you dont say what kind of Disco you have it'll be hard to make an ideea

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