sierrafery

The 3 amigos are related with the red brake(handbrake/low fluid) warning... it shoud be there all the time together with the 3 amigos according to the built in diagnostic protocol but in reality it isnt there only when ''solid'' current faults are logged mainly on sensors, see the attached doc(it's from the D2 workshop manual)

It goes to a so called "antenna" used only on some japan specs

If the ABS came on alone after 3 amigos went out the fault was one sensor related and the vehicle must exceed 10mph for the warning lamp to go out or if the fault is still present the 3 amigos will be back

BCU = body control unit, a very complex electronic unit behind the glovebox which is responsible for various functions including central locking and indicators ... though the interior fusebox(IDM) is suspect as well cos it's very common to be affected by water or moisture, i doubt it's a relay cos there is one for each side... you should find a known good one on ebay from a non-facelift D2 and rule it out cos it's almost plug and play, all you have to do is to disconnect the battery first then after the swap and battery reconnection turn ignition on II and let it there 5 minutes to syncronise itself with the BCU, if you are unlucky enough to be the BCU the problem becomes more complicated cos it needs complex programming with dedicated tester... here's one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Discovery-2-TD5-V8-Interior-Fusebox-YQE000250/254150541492?fits=Car+Make%3ALand+Rover|Model%3ADiscovery&epid=652655038&hash=item3b2c8d80b4:g:K1EAAOSwkhxcfXXk

Did you rule out 100% the fuse(F3) too?...also you need a tester to see the front fogs setting in the BCU cos there are 3 options: 1. Disabled = The vehicle is not fitted with front fog lamps. 2. Main = The front fog lamps will operate if the headlamps are on main beam. 3. No main = The front fog lamps will not operate if the headlamps are on main beam.

My friend's car is also a 2000 one with plenty of miles but the police considered him to be the cause and unfortunately he hit a newish Audi A8 and paid for it's repairs(fortunately no one was injured)... so those retrofitted headlights costed him about twice the value of his old D2 😞

An example which i've seen here myself was that the insurance company refused to pay to a friend of mine when he had an accident one night and he had retrofitted HIDs(not LEDs) so the company said that it could have been a factor due to the altered light beams... i'm sure that when it comes to payment they would invoke anything

No, i have nothing against your plan i just dont see the benefit of having both dip and main beams on together . If that's what you want go for it just make sure you'll not annoy others in traffic when it's dark cos AFAIK LEDs have different beam than classic bulbs and an original LED headlamp reflector is different.... btw, are retrofitted LED headlights legal in Scotland? cos in most European countries if the vehicle was not factory fitted with them then it's a problem

Double post

I understood what you are doing. believe me i know exacty how the factory fitted facelift headlamps are working and my statement remains the same... the dip beam is not supposed to be on together with the main beam from factory...dip beam + main beam can be on as factory setting only on scandinavian specs with enabled daylight running lamps... here are the official diagrams from RAVE so see that when Y165 is closed for dip beam the circuit is closed throug Y167 to dip beam circuit then when when Y167 is switched to the main beam circuit the dip beram circuit is opened... that's how it was built to work, adding relays is some owner's option but i am not a fan of it cos the lamp assembly can suffer from too much heat... that's why it's possible only on scandinavian specs cos there is colder climate

I think you saw the wrong diagrams cos there is absolutely no factory fitted relay involved in the D2 headlamps operation, the lamps are getting direct feed through the lighting switch, simple as that, relays are present only if they were retrofitted

The feed to the interior fuses comes throug the dim/dip relay, remove the relay and bridge the perpendicular cavities in the socket and if you get feed then it can be the relay or it's trigger circuit... you should have told what year is your Disco cos there are some differencies between early and late modells

Do you have paired fob to your spare BCU? cos if not you'll immobilise that too, or if you have tester it's enough to replace the BCU no need to change the ECM too

As long as you can't unlock with the fob the only way to remobilise it is to use the EKA code then once remobilised you can use a tester otherwise it won't comunicate with immobilised BCU

I'd start by replacing the cap with a new genuine one to be 100% ruled out, it's impossibe to visually rule out it's pressure valve, this https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OEM-BMW-Radiator-Expansion-Water-Tank-Cap-For-3-Series-E30-E36-E46/142197526572?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 is cheaper than genuine LR and it's perfect fit. Also it must be tightened to maximum possible

If nobody comes with an answer i'll tell you tomorrow cos i have a spare master cylinder in the garage and i'll measure the ports with calipers cos i know it's metric thread but i'm away from home now and even if IIRC it's M10 i'm not 100% sure

Hi... do you mean thread when you say "size"?

If tester is availablle no need for BCU if the ECU is changed, it only has to learn the securirty code

It's certain that your ECU is something bodged cos that connection to pin 34 LGS wire is not for automatic gearbox but the security code input for all ECUs and it's a method to override the immobiliser used by ''brute" mechanics who are changing an ECU and dont have the proper diagnostic tool to make it learn the security code, the fact that the label with the part number is missing as well makes that ECU very suspect so IMO get hold of a proper ECU which was not "invaded" cos that's your problem

I dont see much logic in overriding that input unless there is a auto ECU fitted to the manual vehicle. Might be a short to earth somewhere on the circuit between the Switch and ECU. What's the p/n on your ECU, it should be MSB101330 if it's original

The clutch switch closes to earth, it's a contradiction between the description of it and the diagram but the diagram is correct and the description is not, i verified

I edited a Td5 coolant flow circuit, you have to direct the flow which goes into the heater matrix through the FBH, i hope you figure it out from the scheme, the inlet is at the bottom, outlet at the top

This is what you need https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Webasto-Thermo-Top-C-KIT-5kW-DIESEL-WATER-HEATER-12V-Boat-Motorhome-3-mths-WA/223339813137?hash=item3400171911:g:lZUAAOSwtaBcR~5A

About the aircon buttons you'll understand how to remove it from minute 2 on https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=160&v=savH5ne6M7k as about bulbs here are the codes for the bottom row you need the JWH100070

I've read the description of HRW few times and i missed that part but i' checked again and i see where are you coming from, sorry that i contradicted you even though IMO the description is not 100% accurate if it's corroborated with the circuit diagram cos the signal from the IC spilices into the serial data bus from C0233-16 which is not particulary an engine speed signal but maybe it is within the digital input so if you wired them all together with all the inputs you need an engine speed input into the cluster as the tachometer to show you idle and that's a digital 2 pulse/rev signal which is coming from the ECM black plug pin 19 into IC connector C0230 - 15