sierrafery

follow this http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Injector Seals.html ... except the special extractor tool which is not compulsory

Yes, actually the first link is accurate cos it explains well that "Only fit with remap file with calibration to match"

Hi, that MAF bypass hose ideea is the worst thing i've ever seen cos it affects the whole air flow reading and can lead to high EGT, all your problems are solvable with a proper remap which can bring up the MAF cut-out limit from 680 to 800 and the overboost limit as well with higher end MAP without using so much external tricking devices .... if you insist to trick the ECU which has an unproper fuel map in it for a VNT turbo simply put a 4.7V clamp on the MAF signal which at least will let the reading to be correct untill the upper limit then cut the excess that's all.... the same principle like what the boost box does with the MAP reading to avoid overboost any reputable tuner can do all those things within the fuel map no need for all kind of "gizmos" which IMO are only a waste of money and the final result is to shorten the engine's life

It's C0272

Yes, afaik it's push-fit

That T piece, nr 24 in the decsription from RAVE is actually a non return valve , google out DNE100050

So, for the reverse lights you have to connect a 10A fused live to pin 2(Y wire) of C323 and from pin 3(GN wire) reverse lights one side the other side of lights to earth - diff-lock warning, when the diff is locked the earth is switched to it from C105 pin 1(BU) , the switch must have one pin connected to earth - transmission temp warning, earth is switched from C105 pin 8(BG) the black wire in C105 must be connected to earth

I'll check the diagrams and give you clear instructions soon

For what you want C105 is not enough, there must be another roud 5 pin connector(C323) from the gearbox which is the harness for the park/neutral/reverse switch cos the feed goes through this then through C105 to the reverse lights thet custom buggy has a D1 instrument pack fitted or what warning lamps do you want?

First of all can you hear the pump running?

I dont understand what you want.... what's not wrking?

Pin 5 should have contiuity to earth the reverse circuit is on pin 3 and it must have 12V on it from fuse F14 with reverse selected

1- diff-lock switch, 2 - vehicle speed sensor, 3 - reverse lamps circuit, 5 - ground, 8 - transmission oil temp switch, 9 - park/neutral position switch - interlock, 11- Alarm ECU... the others are not used in 300Tdi

That connector seems very like being C105 and if it is i'll tell you which wire goes where, see if the wire colours are matching with the pinout, the colour codes are attached as well

Maybe i could be able to help if you describe better what you are after and where is that plug, how many pins it has etc, so more information cos just saying "autobox wiring" with a small pic is too vague and i dont know where to watch in the diagram

You should try with a third slave cylinder IMO

Are you sure that the drive plate was not fitted the other way around? it's quite common if the plate is not marked where the flywheel side is... don't ask me how i know

That's bad news, it's not easy to be ruled out and it can be expensive but the best way is to replace the interior fusebox(IDM) first cos it's plug and play and used to suffer from water ingress(the only important thing is to disconnect the battery first then after replacement and battery reconnection put ignition on II and leave it so 5 minutes for digital data comms reestablishment with the BCU) ...then if the symptom persists the BCU must be replaced but this one needs complex programming with dedicated tester made by someone who knows what he's doing... in the worst case it's the data link between the IDM and BCU but this is rare and can be a nightmare to find the faultat least you have this info for free cos i've learned this the hard way 9 years ago when it happened to me and paid around 300 quid only for trailers from one ''specialist'' to another untill i took the problem in my own hands and found the PCB cracked within the BCU after two weeks of troubleshooting based only on diagrams and poor info found on the web at that time Good luck

Was that some multivehicle diagnostic tool? ... you can't rely on those, with this kind of fault a dedicated LR tester is needed, it's highly unlikely to have warnings on dash and no fault code stored ..unless the ECU is fubar

The answer is deffinitely YES, the glow plugs are important cos they are not there only for starting, they work after the engine was started if it's cold outside for few minutes... untill the coolant temp input gets to 20*C.... without them properly working there will be more carbon build up. ENGINE MANAGEMENT SYSTEM - TD5 ; DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION 18-1-31

Well done, i'm glad it's sorted

If the programming is ruled out unlock/lock the door with the key but dont open the door and try the fob then

you have to go through this too:

did you run RF test with nanocom? and if yes what's the result?

Some thing are unclear, 1. what's the red LED on the dash doing when you use the fobs? ... no reaction at all? 2. when you say the vehicle unlocks with the key do you mean the central locking works too, or does it work from the dash switch? 3. when you open the door the alarm goes off?