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Paul_VR6

Getting Comfortable
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    http://kptuned.com

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    Drag Racing, Megasquirt, keeping my Disco! running.
  1. Agreed. Totally off it passes about as much air as it does 35% duty. 20% duty is fully closed on the 2 wire valves we have in the US.
  2. It'll only cause damage at higher loads, you can ping all day at low loads and just get a funny noise out of it. I ran my VW like that for *years* because the vacuum advance was to aggressive for the total timing I needed to run for the cam I had. Sometimes you learn these things because you have no choice then to run a sub-optimal setup. Had I had MS at the time, I would have taken some timing out! I would read up on EGT and the effect of AFR, I'll link up a good aircraft related article that helped me understand it a good bit. I think the VE table looks good, it seems to follow the afr table smoothly, which is how it should be. I wouldn't bother with that last one, just tune to 14.7 in decel for now then turn overrun fuel cut on when you need it. That bump in the VE table could be a misfire, or just needing more accel, it's hard to tell without a log that shows what caused the analyzer to do that. MAP loss at high rpm is intake restriction, could be anything. A motor that breathes looses almost nothing up top, and some see over 100kpa at the resonance points for the intake length they have. I personally would try to lean out cruise a bit, but that's your call. I have my current motor running just sub 16:1 on light cruise with 42deg timing and it seems to be working quite well. Hard to say the actual AFR as my wideband only goes to 16 on that side. Getting good gas mileage though.
  3. That Nissan table has some strange things going on, and without knowing that particular engine it's hard to say why. In general you can start with an advance 'curve' or ramp in the 100kpa bin that will increase in timing until it peaks around 3-4krpm. Then as you go down in MAP you can add timing, with timing peaking in the mid rpm low load ranges. Sometimes there are 'funny' spots during actual driving using this logic and you need to add/reduce timing for knock or to make the motor more responsive. Remember also that many tables that come from computer controlled stock ECUs have advance that is balancing emissions requirements with power and drive-ability. This ends up with some *very* strange timing numbers on some engines.
  4. The first AFR table posted above is good, but will vary slightly for every engine/vehicle combination. If anything my major feedback on that is the 'cruise' region goes to too high a MAP (in general) but it might be fine for the exact combination it's being used on. Temps at 'lean cruise' .. running leaner then stoichiometric actually reduces EGT's (they peak at stoich) so if engines do run hotter, I have no idea why. It is possible that running lean without increasing spark advance can cause higher EGTs, which is one of the reasons you increase timing as well. The IAT will trim the table for varying temperatures but some users report that this doesn't work perfectly. I have had it 'not' work well before and it was because my injector dead time was *way* off for the injectors I was using and skewed the results of the fueling algorithm. Typical high imp injectors (big body EV1) will be around .9-1.1ms, if you're running low impedance with resistor packs it can be even larger and newer style EV6 injectors can be much quicker around .75ms. I would turn off decel fuel cut and tune at least one map bin for decel. Usually you want to run decel at a slight delay (1-2sec) so it's not jumpy. Tuning one bin down there will allow you to hit decel anywhere and be 'in tune' before you do. Hope that helps!
  5. Sounds like it's output straight to the MS from the MLV VE tweaking I would do exactly as you say, just creep down on the afr in your cruise area (once you've identified the specific map/rpm). You will know 'too lean' when it starts surging a bit. You can add a bit of timing to get rid of it, and then go a little leaner. Then repeat. Once you get to a point that no more timing will help, that's your lean misfire limit, Add a bit more fuel back and you're done. I also suggest monitoring your duty cycle at cruise as well, min duty = min fuel Hope that helps!
  6. Base ECU is built and waiting to find time to scope the crank sensor signal. Been playing with my VW a little too much lately trying to get MS3/3x testing done.
  7. I ground the battery directly the the engine (only) and then ground everything (sensors and MS) to a ground block attached to either the block or head. Many OEM's do it this way, and I've never had a problem doing it that way on quite a few MS installs. The 2wire idle valves are much nicer to drive, if you can get one, that'd be the way I'd go. There should be no SAW/PIP problems they're both square waves and are fairly large voltages. If you need to extend the main VR wires to the EDIS module, make sure you use shielded cable and extend it properly.
  8. So you'll lose stepper idle if you're using it, that's about it!! Don't forget to remove the 12v to JS9 jumper, if you leave it, MS1 goes up in smoke. Depending on what pin your spark comes out of, you might have to do some board mods. I've always used instant for the LC1, if you are having trouble it's probably the EGO settings. I only used MS2 for about a month, and switched right to MS3. MS1 on extra code is plenty for most installs.
  9. What most likely happened is that the old coils were in sub-optimal condition and the refreshing of them to almost ANYTHING would have made things better!
  10. There's no way I can disagree with that logic!
  11. A regular of the landroverforums told me this is *THE* place for LR Megasquirt information. I figured I'd post up and introduce myself and my proposed project. Here is my installation plan: 96 Disco 4.0 - stock everything (sensors, injectors, coils, etc) MS1/Extra or MS2/Extra whatever is handy V3 board Direct coil drive w/BIP in an external box Stepper driver or convert to 2wire Bosch valve Dual LC1 for tuning, new stock narrow band once tuned Adapter harness from cut up stock ECU to MS Sounds simple enough, right? I'm missing a few key bits of info but maybe I can get RAVE to behave and give it to me soon! I can't find the specs on the trigger wheel quite yet. Everything else seems pretty straight forward. You guys seem to LOVE EDIS here (don't know why!) so this install will be a bit different. Hopefully I can contribute a bit through this thread and others, as I've done a 'few' MS installs myself, and tuned a few as well. Anyway, I'll post updates as I start to make some progress and thanks in advance for the help along the way! Hopefully this will help someone else out as well!
  12. I've never seen a resistor pack die, ever, on many vehicles. If you have them fitted, leave them. One thing that I have noticed is that low impedance injectors with packs have larger dead time then when PWM'd or compared to high impedance.
  13. Megasquirtin'

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