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Souster last won the day on October 27 2016

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About Souster

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  1. Just like to say a big thanks to everyone for your help. Fitted a new genuine land rover bush this afternoon, reamed it very slightly and refitted clutch. Engine was mated to the box like a glove 5 minutes later. Thanks again chaps. Lets hope it runs well now
  2. Thanks very much for all your replies I really appreciate it. I won't quote each an every one as I'm not the best at it haha. I haven't got a load leveler, so that maybe something to try and borrow or bite the bullet and get one! I must admit the engine hasn't been going in level, but I didn't think that mattered providing the gearbox was jacked up to suit? How much jacking up can the gearbox take? The clutch plate certainly isn't burred or the cause of the problem, as I've fetched it off and slid it on the gearbox shaft with no effort at all! The angle of entry could still be the problem, but I've tried that many times I would have thought I'd have got it with how many attempts I've had. Regarding the spigot bush, how do you go about reaming the bush? If the diameter of the bush reduces when it's installed to the crank, how the hell do you know it's going to fit without some very precise and expensive measuring equipment? I know the bush is perfect, there's no lip or anything. I was going to hydraulic the bush out tomorrow, test it fits on the gearbox shaft and go from there. Although I Dont think that will gain me a lot as again, I'm told the I.D reduced when fitted in crank. I wouldn't mind if this was britpart, but it's genuine land rover as I disn't want to be mucking about like I am now. Hopefully I'll have some help tomorrow, fingers crossed we can get it sorted. Thanks again chaps
  3. Hi all Fitting a 300tdi to an r380 gearbox and having so much trouble. Tried for 3 days now and still absolutely no luck! It's a 300tdi engine to a defender r380. Fitted with a brand new genuine land rover spigot bush, new clutch kit all lined up with an alignment tool bought off ebay. I've got the engine on a hoist, I can seem to get either the top of the bell housing and engine to meet, or the bottom. Occasionally can get it even all the way round but it still wont go that last bit. Im about an 1 and half inches away from getting the engine to sit up tp the gearbox. I've tried jacking the gearbox, tried all different positions still no luck. Removed the slave cylinder to release pressure off the release bearing. No luck! Also tried clutch friction plate on gearbox splines, and it fits no problem. I don't think it's the clutch at fault, or my alignment, because I've stuck it in 2nd gear and turned the crank and the car started to move. So to me that means the clutch is on the splines fine, it just won't go that last bit. There's also no dowles/studs or threads in the way. Could the spigot bush be the problem, could it be too tight? It is genuine land rover. I'm going to remove it tomorrow and see if it fits on the gearbox, if it doesnt I spose that could be the problem. Any tips, hints and comments welcomed. Really hating this job at the moment. Thanks
  4. Thanks Ian that's great. Sorry I missed this reply. One thing I forgot to ask... Should I put any lubricant on the spigot bush, the gearbox shaft and the clutch fork pivot? Or anywhere else for that matter. If so, what sort of lubricant?! Should be fitting it within the next day or so. Thanks
  5. Ferodo were the manufacturers for land rover brake pads around the 300tdi/td5 years. I think they are slightly better than mintex, don't squeal. But Ive got mintex on and they are fine.
  6. Thanks Ralph. Just ordered one cheers
  7. Hi all There's a few questions in this one so beware haha. Time has come to fit a new clutch onto the 300tdi engine that I'm fitting. I would like some recent experiences from you guys on which brands to choose please and advise on which one. I've hauled through many many threads but some of them date back quite far, and as you know. Parts quality can vary over that time. So 3 options: Valeo, AP driveline and Borg & Beck? Which Do you prefer. I can get the Valeo standard duty for a very good price, cheaper than all others by quite a lot. Should I go for a 130 clutch? What are the benefits other than it being heavier duty? I don't really do much towing, if I do its under 1 tonne. When I go off road I rarely work it harder than on the road, other than the odd occasion pulling someone out. Couple of times a year at most. Do 130 clutches make it harder to depress the clutch and cause more or less gearbox chatter? Are they harsher when taking up drive. I'm obviously replacing crank seal, spigot bush etc. But is it worth replacing the master and slave cylinder, they are working fine at the moment. Thanks in advance
  8. Hi all Going to fit the rear crank seal to my donor 300tdi engine today, but there's a few things I'm a bit unsure of... I've ordered genuine land rover items. The seal guide that comes with the rear crank seal is loose in the sealed bag, it's not actually fitted in the seal if you get me it''s separate/loose. And the rave manual states, don't fit a seal if the seal guide is either missing or not in position. Is this seal faulty and should I return it? Or is it a case of fitting the seal guide in the seal, and then sliding it over the crank, then remove the guide? (I'll use some threaded bar to position it) Any tips would be great as I haven't got much knowledge on this. Lastly, should the spigot bush be lubricated before hand or lubricated in position. Rave manual doesn't state either so I'm guessing it's self lubricating. Thanks a lot.
  9. You can check the vacuum pump by buying a cheap vacuum gauge and checking the reading. I doubt it's that though to be honest if the pedal is sinking on start up, and if the pedal feels like it has servo assistance when the engine is running it doesn't sound like servo or pump. If the pedal is firm and doesn't creep at all (air or failing master cylinder) I'd be inclined to try another set of brake pads. Delphi or ferodo. They arent expensive. Other than that, there isn't much more it can be. Just make sure all bleed nipped are at the top of each caliper so it can be bled correctly. HTH
  10. Thanks Bowie that's good to hear. Original shells are sitting on the bench at the moment, as you say seems daft to refit. Should I just buy brand new standard shells then, big ends or mains as well? Are king bearings a good make for shells? Cheers
  11. Hi chaps. Took the sump off this afternoon, as it needed re-sealing anyway. While I was in there I decided to remove the big end caps, and inspect the shells. To my untrained eye I think they look pretty good, however I'm no expert. So I'd appreciate the opinions of you experts please. Should I replace these shells? And while the sump is off, is there anything else I should do? I then took No.3 mains cap off, a inspected the bottom shell, which I believe is the one that wears the most. Any input very welcome. Thanks alot
  12. Cheers guys. Sounds like the shocks are okay then. Are the springs okay to fit then? Seems strange to me, I doubt that's how they were fitted out the factory when they have all those different variations/part numbers. Shall I go ahead and fit?
  13. Hi All I bought some springs and shocks off ebay removed from a puma which hadn't done many miles. In good condition and everything, I just have a query regarding the fitting/part numbers. The front springs are both REB500220 red/green/orange. Which from googling the part numbers are both passenger side springs? Are they okay to fit, seems odd that they are both passenger side?! The rears is the same story, RKB500270 white/green/pink which I'm led to believe is drivers side. Are these okay to fit? Why are they handed? How will they be on a 90 truck cab, stiff? Also, are shocks meant to extend by themselves, as these don't, they just remain in position? Thanks in advance
  14. Thanks for your help chaps. Removed the cylinder head over the weekend, and was pleasantly surprised (for a change with a land rovery aha) with what it revealed. There was no blowing of the head gasket at all, the gasket still had the land rover badge on so could this be the original? And all the bores looked near perfect (from what my little knowledge tells me), all honing marks were consistent and no up and down marks in the bore. No ridges in the bore either, other than 5mm of carbon around the top, which when removed doesn't leave any ridges. The head looks good too, no cracking or blowing of any kind. Virtually no corrosion or pitting where the water galleries are. So I'm guessing regular anti freeze changes? Now, the main reason for this post... I've bought a new set of glow plugs, and you wouldn't believe it, I've actually managed to torque all 4 glow plugs up to spec. Therefor, the one hole with the not so good thread has tightened down fine. Do I leave it be, or get it helicoiled still? Any input welcome. Thank's again
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