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Souster

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Souster last won the day on October 27 2016

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About Souster

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  1. Evening all I stupidly braved the cold this evening and tackled the injector seals on my 2000 td5. Now it's all back together and running like a bag of spanners. Plooms of white smoke and alot of knocking. Maybe a cylinder down. Starts on button though. Looking back, I wasnt in the right frame of mind for this job tonight. Firstly, I only unplugged the pipe off the fuel pressure regulator, been as I couldnt get to the cooler pipe. I just left it. Secondly, When undoing the rocker shaft, I went in increments, but I'll be honest I could have gone around the bolts alot more than I did. I thought they were lose but they were still holding it down into the head. Second mistake was , the injector pushrod and spring came off the injector on number 1. As I pulled up in the wrongplace! It seem to push back together okay though? Replaced all seals and washers. Anyway reinstalled the rocker shaft. Made sure I'd backed off the rocker armadjusters (that adjust ontop of injectors) and then turned the crank untill the lobe was at its highest lift. Turned the adjuster down untill it touched and then backed off 1 turn. I followed this for each one. The only thing is, the nuts just seemed to be turning and turning for ages. Then finally they would lock. Odd!! So any ideas what I have done wrong or what is causing the problem. Can oil in the connectors ontop of the injectors where the loom plugs in cause it to run rough. Any ideas please guys. Some days you know you should quit spannering, but want to get it done (As a side note... it is safe scraping the carbon off the injector nozzle providing it's not anywhere near the tip isnt it?)
  2. Thanks for the help. Took it to a land rover indy today, who very quickly put it on diagnostics, which read zero as a MAF reading. He said also that unplugging the MAF will make it drive better. However it was worse?! And slower. MAP sensor cleaned in the inlet manifold. All filters new. I think the majority of the problem with the noise is the actual centre silencer removed. It's awful, way too noisy
  3. Hi I've been ticking off the jobs on my recently purchased 2000 defender 90 and its slowly improving. It has been sat for a good few years, and ran like a bag on spanners when I first drove it home. Anyway, it pulls so well bottom and mid range, I cant fault it in the slightest. Butanything over 60 or 65 is an ear ache anda choir for the motor. I also have like a rattle jiggling noise which doesnt disappear when clutch dipped. Its deffo not engine, more speed related?? I'm led to believe 70-80 should be no problem in a good td5, on muds. Well this one is on AT's. Right so heres what I've done: *Fully serviced *Blanked EGR *ECU Plug cleaned after harness *Wastegate actuator freed off *Filter head replaced with new internals in the right locations *cleaned MAP sensor * ran without MAF Pump seems to be okay noise wise, primed it today after filter change and filter housing and all good. It is running without a centre box and a cat, which although sounds great. Isnt good for volume at all, so I think a centre silencer will be ordered. Any ideas why I cant get it into a good cruising speed please guys, and whatcould the rattle/jingling be? Thanks guys
  4. guys ive got an abundance of ep90 gl4 in the garage. Would it be safe to use in a 2000 td5 transfer box without any harm? i know rave specifies 75w90 but is it that important, will it help take out a bit of backlash until it gets warm? TIA
  5. False alarm guys. No pun intended haha. It was due to also swapping the radio and it must of immobilized it with the cobra alarm. So if anyone knows how to swap the radio with one of those alarms any help would be great. Mods feel free to delete thread if need be. Thanks again
  6. Hi guys I'm finally back on the scene with another defender 90. This time with a 2000 model td5 90. It's been a while since land rover ownership, but this one hasnt began too well. Last week I bought this td5, with 95k on the clock. Noticed the injector loom was leaking oil into the red plug under the seat, so lastnight I replaced the loom and flushed the red plug with brake cleaner. Let the plug dry over night, come to start it this morning. And it wont start! It's sort of doing half a crank, and then stopping dead. Every time! Sort of like something is stopping the engine from rotating?? I fitted an OEM loom, battery reading 12.5 volts, and has a cobra alarm/immobiliser. Any ideas please? Thanks in advance
  7. Just like to say a big thanks to everyone for your help. Fitted a new genuine land rover bush this afternoon, reamed it very slightly and refitted clutch. Engine was mated to the box like a glove 5 minutes later. Thanks again chaps. Lets hope it runs well now
  8. Thanks very much for all your replies I really appreciate it. I won't quote each an every one as I'm not the best at it haha. I haven't got a load leveler, so that maybe something to try and borrow or bite the bullet and get one! I must admit the engine hasn't been going in level, but I didn't think that mattered providing the gearbox was jacked up to suit? How much jacking up can the gearbox take? The clutch plate certainly isn't burred or the cause of the problem, as I've fetched it off and slid it on the gearbox shaft with no effort at all! The angle of entry could still be the problem, but I've tried that many times I would have thought I'd have got it with how many attempts I've had. Regarding the spigot bush, how do you go about reaming the bush? If the diameter of the bush reduces when it's installed to the crank, how the hell do you know it's going to fit without some very precise and expensive measuring equipment? I know the bush is perfect, there's no lip or anything. I was going to hydraulic the bush out tomorrow, test it fits on the gearbox shaft and go from there. Although I Dont think that will gain me a lot as again, I'm told the I.D reduced when fitted in crank. I wouldn't mind if this was britpart, but it's genuine land rover as I disn't want to be mucking about like I am now. Hopefully I'll have some help tomorrow, fingers crossed we can get it sorted. Thanks again chaps
  9. Hi all Fitting a 300tdi to an r380 gearbox and having so much trouble. Tried for 3 days now and still absolutely no luck! It's a 300tdi engine to a defender r380. Fitted with a brand new genuine land rover spigot bush, new clutch kit all lined up with an alignment tool bought off ebay. I've got the engine on a hoist, I can seem to get either the top of the bell housing and engine to meet, or the bottom. Occasionally can get it even all the way round but it still wont go that last bit. Im about an 1 and half inches away from getting the engine to sit up tp the gearbox. I've tried jacking the gearbox, tried all different positions still no luck. Removed the slave cylinder to release pressure off the release bearing. No luck! Also tried clutch friction plate on gearbox splines, and it fits no problem. I don't think it's the clutch at fault, or my alignment, because I've stuck it in 2nd gear and turned the crank and the car started to move. So to me that means the clutch is on the splines fine, it just won't go that last bit. There's also no dowles/studs or threads in the way. Could the spigot bush be the problem, could it be too tight? It is genuine land rover. I'm going to remove it tomorrow and see if it fits on the gearbox, if it doesnt I spose that could be the problem. Any tips, hints and comments welcomed. Really hating this job at the moment. Thanks
  10. Thanks Ian that's great. Sorry I missed this reply. One thing I forgot to ask... Should I put any lubricant on the spigot bush, the gearbox shaft and the clutch fork pivot? Or anywhere else for that matter. If so, what sort of lubricant?! Should be fitting it within the next day or so. Thanks
  11. Ferodo were the manufacturers for land rover brake pads around the 300tdi/td5 years. I think they are slightly better than mintex, don't squeal. But Ive got mintex on and they are fine.
  12. Thanks Ralph. Just ordered one cheers
  13. Hi all There's a few questions in this one so beware haha. Time has come to fit a new clutch onto the 300tdi engine that I'm fitting. I would like some recent experiences from you guys on which brands to choose please and advise on which one. I've hauled through many many threads but some of them date back quite far, and as you know. Parts quality can vary over that time. So 3 options: Valeo, AP driveline and Borg & Beck? Which Do you prefer. I can get the Valeo standard duty for a very good price, cheaper than all others by quite a lot. Should I go for a 130 clutch? What are the benefits other than it being heavier duty? I don't really do much towing, if I do its under 1 tonne. When I go off road I rarely work it harder than on the road, other than the odd occasion pulling someone out. Couple of times a year at most. Do 130 clutches make it harder to depress the clutch and cause more or less gearbox chatter? Are they harsher when taking up drive. I'm obviously replacing crank seal, spigot bush etc. But is it worth replacing the master and slave cylinder, they are working fine at the moment. Thanks in advance
  14. Hi all Going to fit the rear crank seal to my donor 300tdi engine today, but there's a few things I'm a bit unsure of... I've ordered genuine land rover items. The seal guide that comes with the rear crank seal is loose in the sealed bag, it's not actually fitted in the seal if you get me it''s separate/loose. And the rave manual states, don't fit a seal if the seal guide is either missing or not in position. Is this seal faulty and should I return it? Or is it a case of fitting the seal guide in the seal, and then sliding it over the crank, then remove the guide? (I'll use some threaded bar to position it) Any tips would be great as I haven't got much knowledge on this. Lastly, should the spigot bush be lubricated before hand or lubricated in position. Rave manual doesn't state either so I'm guessing it's self lubricating. Thanks a lot.
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