Vulch

Thank you!

Do you mean the connections within the black block connector, which connects the indicator stalk to the loom? Or the connections within the indicator stalk itself? I also have realised that I have no horn either - which could all be connected... The horn has its own earth according to the wiring diagram, so that could be loose, but if it were that would be a big coincidence. My plan is to go down the 'sort out indicators first and hope that the horn sorts itself out in the process' route. If the horn still does not work I will start to remove light bars etc etc to get to the horn... Vulch

Right! I've changed the flasher relay. Fuse 5 is intact and has been checked for continuity. I have had a look at the hazard switch as per the checks outlined in a brilliant thread elsewhere on this forum. Think it's fine. I have had the cowl off the steering column to have a look at the indicator stalk and.... don't know what I'm looking for. I know that I should be looking for continuity where there should be none - and logically should be checking this back from the multiconnector block, but not sure which terminals to check - is there a thread elsewhere on here that I haven't found yet? Cheers, Vulch

Left hand indicators are blowing fuse 5 - I have disconnected front and rear indicators and fuse 5 still blows when stalk moved. However, IT TAKES LONGER TO BLOW. Horn was not working either - assumed it was also on fuse 5, but no. It is on fuse 1. I changed fuse 1 and the GREEN INDICATOR LIGHT ON THE DASH COMES ON AND STAYS ON. Looking at the wiring diagram, I think that I should be looking at the stalk, as that is the place where the two circuits come together. What do you think? I am not keen to get involved in the wiring loom down the front wings unless I have to! I am aware that chafing in this area can cause problems, but if the problem lies elsewhere - and if this can be confirmed by someone whose eyes do not glaze over when presented with a wiring diagram - I will go down that route first! Many thanks! Vulch

When I go through decent-sized puddles the water comes up through the floor of the passenger footwell like a fountain. Funny as hell when I've got a passenger in the car. I intend to use some silicone sealant when I get around to it. And it has all dried out. And when it's not so cold that the sealant won't stick to anything. Vulch

Success. Specialist eating humble pie. Knew I had a 110 but had a picture of a 90 in his head. Doh. Thanks for all your help. Vulch

Hang on, I'll look myself - you have helped enough! If my googling isn't successful I will get back to you! Vulch

Western, you appear to be bang on. Thanks, fella. I was googling it at the same time as you were replying. Would the spring be different as well? My spring seems to be significantly longer and wider than the replacement. Won't name and shame the people involved, but they were adamant that the spring was the right one. Vulch

STC2796G for the shoes (or MGR51 - both numbers on the box) 218983 for the spring Both bought from local Landrover specialists... Vulch

My 110 is K reg (1992?) and wining from the rear brakes. I got a new set of shoes (based on the reg of the vehicle) and had the drum off. The bottom spring was snapped. I got a new one. The new one is much smaller than the old one, now that I have them both in front of me. Can't see how I'm going to get it on there. Also, the new brake shoes are significantly narrower than the old ones. Were there two sizes of brake shoes for the 110? What am I looking at? I am not going to get the old ones off until I have some new ones to replace them... Any ideas anyone? Cheers, Vulch

I only moved the clipping point by 10 to 15mm - I think that there is about this much adjustment on the thread, which is well and truly rusted. I'll let you know how it holds up! Cheers, Vulch

Photo:

Right. Sorted it. Here is the bodge: Problem: Striker/pin was not long enough to clip into the bonnet catch. Striker was also a bit too wide, I think. Solution: Get out the grinder. Grind around the striker to make it thinner. Grind a notch in the striker for the bonnet catch to lock in to. I have a carabiner on a bit of chain as a backup, so if it does fail, it's not going very far. My neighbour said "yeah, but just wait and see what happens at 70!" ...small problem with that... Never seen 70. I will try to upload a photo...

Original bonnet would have been the pull cable type, as there is a pull cable fitted. It may be that the old pin had just been worn down a lot... I am considering taking a file to it, to reduce the diameter... Can the pin be moved in and out by rotating it? Any tips on freeing this up?

I have just got another less rusty bonnet for my 92 110. Not sure what year the replacement is, and am aware that the bonnet I am replacing is not the original one either! All seems the same shape, APART from the striker/pin on the bonnet, which is larger (wider) than the old one. Questions: Are there two different sizes? Or has my old one simply been worn down? Can I replace the larger one with the smaller one from my old bonnet? How do I get the striker off? It looks quite obvious - slot in the end of a striker which is just the right shape for a big flat head screwdriver - tried this but it won't budge. Even with lots of WD. Looks like it might be rusted on. Can I swap the whole striker assembly? There is a big nut where it is attached to the bonnet, but cannot see what this is attached to, and can't budge it either. If there are two different sizes, presumably there is a corresponding bigger bonnet catch - can't budge the 10mm square nuts that hold this on either... I have decided to spray WD everywhere I can reach and then go to the pub to 'give it a chance to work'. All advice gratefully received! Cheers, Vulch

Run a long wire from the negative terminal of the battery - ie earth. Use this to check whether your earth on the lamp is dodgy or not. Check resistance between negative terminal and the lamp's earth. Connect the negative terminal of the battery to the earth connection on the lamp. If the lamp works, your earth is dodgy. Check the brake light switch - check the resistance of the unit when open and then closed. This might possibly be duff, but it is quite unlikely. Dodgy earth is my best bet.

There are various ways of solving the basic issue of nuts rusted on to bolts, with rounded off or rusted off heads/similar. Maximise your chance of success: Give it all a scrub with a wire brush. Soak it in WD40. A lot. For a long time. Maximise your access to the problem - move stuff out of the way. Try a range of spanners - the one you thought was too small might just fit with a clout from a hammer ;-) If the head of the bolt is large enough, but rounded off, try to file a slot in it to get a screwdriver in there. This also can work on the other end of the bolt - the threaded end. Get two nuts and put them on the threaded end of the bolt. Tighten in opposite directions to lock. Use this an alternative bolt head. Try a bit of heat - even a decent lighter can help. But not too near flammable stuff, obviously. And if all else fails, Use a grinder. Vulch

Not on the A34 by any chance? I saw a 110 abandoned in a layby on the 10th - on my way to the autojumble. My 110 got as 15 miles from home before returning home to be swapped for the wife's car ;-) Vulch

I have an 83 110 body on a 93 chassis - the electrics are always playing up! I find that a long wire running from the battery negative terminal is really useful for sorting out earthing problems. Just attach it to what is supposed to be the earthing terminal on the light in question (I use a crocodile clip - I nicked my multimeter from school when I was a nipper!) It also provides you with a bulletproof earth to measure p.d. against. HTH Vulch

I phoned Footman James (Google them) who had insured my old GT6 until I sold it. My 110 is 1993 (mostly) and, being more than 17 years old, they put it on a Classic car policy. No limited mileage or anything. Including recovery, came to £134 fully comp. I'm 37 and she's 34. 12 years NCB, but they didn't include this as it's a classic policy. However, I can carry my NCB on to another policy with a cover note at any time. Think I'm winning so far ;-) HTH Vulch

Right, I have just had a crack at fitting central locking actuators to the doors of my 110. 1983 CSW Safari doors. Problem: Actuator not powerful to move the locking pin on the back door. Solution: take apart lock to remove spring which is loading locking pin. Problem: can't get lock back together again. Although I filed off two rivets, that shouldn't be a problem. I just can't work out how it all goes back together again. Has anyone done this ? And even better, did anyone take a photo ;-) Cheers, Vulch

Right, sorted. For anyone who searches this, here is how I did it: 1) take out the battery and charge it - I did this overnight and in a comparatively warm garage, which might have helped. 2) get some unleaded petrol. I had about 65 litres of Biodiesel in the tank. I added 2-3 litres of unleaded. 3) Replace the battery. 4) remove the fuel filter. I couldn't be bothered to go and get some diesel, and my only fuel container was still half full of unleaded, so.... 5) balance the fuel filter in a suitable container - I used our blender. a) Fill around the outside with hot water. Empty and refill after 5 mins as the water cools quite fast. b) Don't switch it on. c) Don't tell the wife. 6) Refit the fuel filter when the Biodiesel has warmed up - you will know when the biodiesel has warmed up as it will expand a bit, and ooze out through the holes in the top of the filter. 7) get some hot water and pour it over anything that may contain Biodiesel in the engine bay - lift pump, pipes to and from fuel filter, injector pipes, etc. 8) double warm the glow plugs. 9) give it a whirl. Result. You may not have to do all of these things, but I really wanted it to work, so did all I could to maximise my chances of success. And I succeeded. WOO HOO! Thanks for all the advice! Vulch

It's Biodiesel. Thanks for all your help fellas! So my plan is: Top up the fuel tank with some unleaded - should be about 5L I reckon. I'll be careful not to overdo it though. Take off the fuel filter and put straight diesel in that before refitting. Hmmm. I might try to warm up the fuel pipe with a blow torch. Ok, perhaps not a blow torch or any naked flame for that matter - but some warm water could do it. Once the Bio/unleaded mix is through to the engine, it should be ok.... Might also put the battery on charge overnight to maximise my chances! Cheers, Vulch

PS. In light of a brief look at your link: "No I won't wire your car.", thank you very much for replying to my post! ;-) Still smiling about that! Vulch

When you say ice, do you mean solidified biodiesel, or actual frozen water? I'm guessing biodiesel? Where would water come from? Vulch