Lars L

I bought one when my headgasket went. There is no dramatic increase in boy racer power, but the engine gets a lot stronger at lower revs, especially uphill on small roads. Hills that previously needed 3rd gear could be driven in 4th because of the inreased torque. I would gladly spend extra for a performance head again...

I have converted a pair of Hella 3003 to 35W HID 4300 k and the light pattern is even better than with the standard H1 bulbs. Both reach and spread is improved. Converting H4 is a completely different matter that should be avoided...

Yep, as long as it's not "wintery conditions" you'll be fine.

No, it doesn't... It also says that "the tyres should be produced especially for winter driving"... And ATs are not. Here's a list over tyres that meet the requirements: http://www.stro.se/winter/vinter121001_new.pdf BFG ATs made before 2004 are approved, later ones not...

Outdated I believe... Proper winter tyres should have the snowflake/mountain symbol on the side, M+S is not OK since lots of US made tyres have this marking even if they are normal summer tyres. Read: http://www.transportstyrelsen.se/en/road/Vehicles/winter-tyres/

Outdated I believe... Proper winter tyres should have the snowflake/mountain symbol on the side, M+S is not OK since lots of US made tyres have this marking even if they are normal summer tyres. Read: http://www.transportstyrelsen.se/en/road/Vehicles/winter-tyres/

Maybe not that fun, but working... Which is of some importance when the temp is -25C outside. Anderson connectors and mains might not be a good idea, better to use proper plugs etc. Also, if going homemade, the heating element has to sit further down to enable some circulation in the system. Put in a high position all the heat will just stay there. And engine or lower radiator hose is a better place than the radiator. It's the engine you want to heat...

Why not buy a proven ready made engine heater? http://www.landroverweb.com/landrover/defa-warm-up-and-engine-heater/

If there is, I didn't notice. I cut both in one go. Not much use to cut one and not the other...

There's not a "corresponding hole", the hole in the bulkhead leads directly into the lower part of the dash. Which means that this has to be warmed up before there will be any heat inside...

Well, the difference isn't that big. I did it when I had the heater out of my previous 110. And I won't take it out of my present Defender just to make the hole larger...

I bought a set of studded Hakka LT (w/o the 2) in time for last winter. I've also had studded Cooper Discoverer M+S on my previous One Ten. Can't say that there is any difference between the two brands. Safety is drastically improved when comparing them to all-terrains with rubber compound unsuitable for colder temps. The pattern of the Coopers is a little more open which might be better when driving in snow. Or not...

The "technical datas" Terrafirma and others are stating by saying "+50mm" are just rubbish IMHO. OME for example give the correct datas by stating spring capacity and unloaded length. +50 mm compared to what? I bought a pair of light duty rear springs for my '97 110 CSW. I found what seemed like "real" data on them and they were the same as the OME springs on my old One Ten, 270 lbs/inch.The result was that they made the rearend lower than the genuine Td5 springs I had on...

One like these perhaps? http://www.wilsonantenna.com/fiberglass.php The ridgid one is really ridgid and heavy so it needs a sturdy mounting. Which you obviously plan to make.

The Ashcroft box should be delivered complete with the suitable release bearing. That was what I was told when I asked about mine some years ago. None came with the box, so someone along the line had better use for it than me...