headdamage

I have an extra rear tank so I sometimes run my side tank right dry... when I do this it takes about 60L to fill it right up.

That would be it... I had noticed the plain bottom bearing shell in the TD but not the extra oil way in the crank. Thanks.

I've stripped several 2.5na diesels over the years but they have all been late 80's and early 90's military units, they all have the same crank.... I've just checked the parts book and there are two numbers for the 2.5na so there is some difference I would guess.

The 2.5na, 2.5TD, and 200TDI all use exactly the same crank shaft.

Slowly working on making an LT230 to NV4500 conversion:

You can make a bolt on bracket for the right hand side that fits the stock 2.5na frame mount or you have to weld on a right hand mount?

I put a rear tank in my 90 a couple of years ago. For the exhuast I just cut a hole, about 3", in the body behind the drivers door and 2 or 3 inches above the bottom of the pannel then took it to a local exhuast shop and said "make it come out there"... it now comes out there and is a bit loud but my plan to quiet it down is to swap the 2.5na diesel for a 200TDI that I'm rebuilding. The turbo should cut down on the noise which is not too bad now but is a bit much on day long drives.

I've stripped a disco 200tdi that was in a defender and found that the four ladder frame bolts that come through from the flywheel housing where missing. Do I have to replace these or can I leave them out so that the ladder fram can be removed with the engine insitu at a later date? In short do they need to be there?

Why would I want to re-bore it if it is in spec for standard pistons? If if is in spec seems like honing it and putting new rings on the standard pistons would be the better idea.

The bore looks good... will try to measure it this weekend to be sure. Dropped the crank and head off at the machine shop and the injection pump, injectors, and turbo off at the diesel shop. I'll try to get some pics of the rod.

So you use the 300tdi head and injectors and all the other parts are 200tdi? That sounds like an easy fix to the lack of 200tdi heads problem

Any good write ups anywhere on how to do the 300tdi head on a 200tdi conversion?

I finished stripping the engine tonight and cut one side of the big end off with a hack saw. Piston and rod are out and on the bench... the bend is easy to see now that it is out of the block.

I'm going to take the crank out anyway now... thing are looking too sketchy in there for me to trust this engine without doing a full on rebuilt with the block and crank getting checked out at a machine shop and machined as needed. I'm likely going to try nad hack off one side of the big end once the crank is out of the way so that it will go up the bore.

It's not the rings because I could get it out enough to clear all three and I've taken them off of the piston now. The piston moves very freely in the bore now but the rod binds up just as the last mm or so of the bit end tries to enter the bore. From the bottom it looks like the big end is 1 or 2mm too wide to fit up the bore. It also doesn't look like the piston can come out of the bottom due to the block webbing so I thinki I have to either make the big end a bit narrower or cut it off. Either way my quick engine swap has turned into a full on rebuild project. At least now I'll become very familiar with the tdi, all I've worked on before where 2.25P and 2.5na diesel engines.

I've got a 200tdi that I can not remove the #1 piston from the cylinder. The big end of the con rod seems to be too wide to fit, I assume the con rod is bent, I don't know what else could cause this problem. How the heck do I get this out? Right now the crank is still in the block, if I remove it can I get the piston out of the bottom? Thanks for any help.

Thanks guys... I thought it might be due to the physical difference between the upper and lower halfs but wanted to be sure. I'm used to engines where the upper and lower are the same like the 2.5na.

I've just taken the bearings out of a disco 200tdi engine and I can't find the numbers in the books. Any idea what the new numbers for these are? - Big ends are ERC8841 - Top of mains is ERC8839 - Bottom of mains is ETC6422 Why are the tops and bottoms of the mains different numbers? I thought they should be the same. Thanks for any help.

Could not find you over there... different user name?

I have the engine out of the truck right now and on a stand... just wanted to know if I could do the bearings without stripping the whole engine apart. It is soposed to be a good runner, I want to inspect the bearings while it is on the stand and figured I might as well replace them while I have it open.

Can you change the 200tdi main bearings and rod bearings in situ? If so do you have to use new main bearing cap bolts, con rod bolts, and con rod nuts? If you need to use new con rod bolts, how do you change them in place? Thanks.

I have considered this conversion before. I to have a late exmil engine, which you should find is an 11J not 12J. These engines do appear to be 19J blocks as they are drilled and tapped for the oil feed and return lines. I have also chased up the manifold, turbo, injection pump and other bits from the outside of a 19J to try doing this conversion. However, at this point I have also scared up a cheapish 200tdi so which seemed like a better idea after giving the 11J alot of thought. Back to the 11J... I live in Calgary which is at about 4000ft above sea level and I often drive as high as 7000ft so I really notice the lack of power that the 3%/1000ft of elevation gives the na engine. Installing the 19J IP pump and turbo on the 11J without changing the pistons (and maybe some other bits) would likely result in an early death for the 11J but fitting the turbo while keeping the stock fueling and keeping the boost down to around 5psi should pick up the power and fuel economy in the 11J. In effect what I think would be worth while is using the turbo to simulate having the engine at sea level and I find that the 2.5na is an ok engine at sea level. So to sum up you can do it but think about what you want it to do, any thing other than a small boost in power will get quickly more complicated. Also you will have to use an oil cooler if you don't have one already, these engines even in NA form cook the oil on long hard Canadian drives and the oil is what is used to cool the pistons.

They look like 130 aka NAS110 rims to me.

So is anyone making an NV4500 to LT230 adaptor at this time?

This is a rather dirty 6.5na in a 110 using an NV4500 fitted to an LT230: