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Rummer out here, where the Rocky Mountain Rover drive comes from, is that the LT230 has issues as well. In fact I heard that they stopped making it.

Well I happen to live in Calgary and I can say that a Series IIa 88" will drive through these ok but I was younger at the time and I used to hit them quite fast I'm sure my 90 would go through them fine to but the only one that is a short cut for me know has a locked gate across it as the city buses no longer use that route.

A friend welded in internal reenforcing tubes that are braced/guseted at the hub end and diff end of each side. The look like they will really stiffen the whole casing up but I really don't know if they are really worth added or not. I was a case of he owed me a favor and sugested this, it looks cool anyway.

Is there a kit or a change of bell housings that alow the 300tdi to mate up with a V8 LT77s? Thanks.

Does anyone know if all of the 11J's are dilled and tapped for the turbo oil feed and drain? If so why? Are they 19J blocks with just a different serial number for the military? Thanks.

Turns out the 19J I've got is not dead and I've got it running on a test stand but does need work. However, I'm still interested in trying the Franken engine. I can't see lean being a problem with the diesel engine, over fueling is a problem.

Thanks for the list

I've got Red90's old engine in the above pic and it is an 11J as well. I wonder why they are not 12J or 19J? Untill now I'd never seen an 11J.

Water injection sounds like it might be a good idea for a 19J to keep it alive on hard pulls and big hills.

Right now at 4000ft + elevation I get alot of black smoke when my foot is in it and it needs to be in it to try and keep up with traffic. At sea leval it produces very little black smoke and keeps up with traffic ok. Hence to start with I want to replicate the preformance I get at sea level and if that works perhaps play a bit more. I've got a couple of spare good 2.5na engines in the garage but no good Turbo diesels.

I'm not going to turn up the fueling so there shouldn't be too much in the way of extra heat. Infact I think that the exhuast gas temp will reduce due to more complete combustion taking place. Now I could be wrong so feel free to point out how this is doomed to fail. Mostly I'm trying to get the engine to perform like it is at sea level when I'm at higher elevations. I live at about 4000ft and drive up to the 7000ft range at times and the 2.5na really is suffering at these elevations compaired to when I run it down on the coast. I'm not trying to get it up to TDI performance but if it does workout I might mess with it further and and an intercooler. In the long run I'll rebuild the 19J or find a 200TDI when I can afford it. My frame is galvanised so the 300TDI is out of the picture unless someone has figured out how to make that work without cutting and welding the older frame.

I once built a 2.5 petrol engine using a 2.5NA diesel short block and the rest of the parts off of a 2.25 five main petrol but it ran great. In a similar line of thought I've got another hair brianed idea that has been bugging me for a few years so I'm going to give it a go. Many of the ex BATUS 90/110s over here in Canada have 2.5NA diesels but the blocks are 2.5TD 19J blocks and have the oil feed and drain drilled and tapped. I've picked one up of these 2.5na engines with the 19J block and a very low compression complete 2.5TD 19J, I'm going to add the Turbo system off of the 19J but leave the stock NA injection pump on the engine. If it runs ok I might then add a propane injection system. I hope to end up with an engine that runs at least as well as a 2.5NA at sealevel when it is up in the mountians at 7000ft... on top of that I hope to use the propane to give it a bit of extra power and to increase the fuel mileage. So am I nuts? I was told that I couldn't do the 2.5 diesel 2.25 gas combination at the time... maybe this new franken engine will work out to

Thanks for the ideas guys

I'm looking for some ideas to make the front wings on a 110 be quick detachable but still secure enough for legal road use. Any ideas? Thanks.

This tread is a little old but I thought I'd add that I've got a 6.2 diesel with 500 000+ Km's on it and it still runs though it could use a new timing chain and injectors but even so it still goes better than my fresh 2.5na diesel Also I've helped a friend install a 6.5na into a 110 using an NV4500 adapted to the LT230 and it worked out really well.

That might have something to do with the fact that the exhaust side of the turbo was still taking power to spin, it would be like restricting the tail pipe on a 2.5na.

What would the best way to deal with the engine mounts for this conversion?

I've seen that happen over here in Canada to US trucks with big engines and tires but not a rover.

If the narrower bearing are fine then I guess it makes sense for me to use the disco axle if I want disc brakes. Thanks for the input guys

You used the 90 halfshafts? What drive members did you use? The disc and drum hubs have a different bolt circle for the flange bolts and the pilot.

Ok, anyway the 90 24 spline shafts that I have are thicker in the main body than the Disco 24 spline shafts that I have (disco shafts are wasted the 90 shafts are not). I've seen the disco ones brake in the main body or at the flange. I've not seen the 90 ones brake yet hence my thinking that they are stronger. Now that that is out of the way my main interest is the relative strenghts of the wheel bearings between the two axles. The Disco bearing are about 0.5 to 1 inch closer together than the drum set up. This seems like it would be less durable to me... thoughts?

They are both 24 spline but the drum shafts are much thicker like a Salisbury shaft.

Hi, I've got an exmil 90 with the drum brake rear axle and 4 pin diff. I've got a ARB locker on the way and am debating wheather to fit it to the extisting drum axle or to build it into a used Disco axle that I have kicking around. The Disco axle has weaker shafts and closer spaced wheel bearings, neither of these strike me as being good but disk brakes would be nice. I can get stronger shafts for the disco axle but that still leaves me with suspect looking wheel bearings. In the perfect world I'd fit 110 front stubs and hubs to the disco axle, they fit fine, but then I'd need custom made shafts which is no good if I brake them. I use the truck for long distance trips in Canada and some heavyish off roading, tires are 255/85R16. Any ideas? Thanks.

Hi, Does anyone know if there is a bellhousing or adaptor that fits the the 200 or 300 TDI onto a Rover V8 (long input shaft) LT77S transmission? Thanks