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Hi, i've just picked up a 97 4.6 hse which is pretty immaculate apart from the spare wheel well which to me looks beond repaire and appears to be held together with hamerite curtisy of the previous owner. I'd rather replace the whole panel than patch it up if possible. So does any body know if or where you can get replacement panels or am I going to have to cut one out of a scrapper? Cheers Karl

Hi thanks for your reply. I tried putting the inhibitor switch through the earth wire. the engine wouldn't start in gear as you would expect but as soon as you turned the key to the first position the engine started. So somethings not quite right there. I've now wired it through what I belive is the cranking wire on the ignition switch and it's working as it should. But i'm a bit worried that there may be to much current going through the inhibitor switch. Could this damage my inhibitor switch? I think I might have to take the dash off and chase my wiring back as it looks like its been botched over it's 23yr life some what lol

Hi, I have a 1988 90 which I've fitted a 3.9 efi auto which now runs and drives fine. I've now decided to wire up the starter inhibitor switch so it will pass it's MOT and make it safe for others to drive. Has anyone done this before or able to give me some pointers? As far as I can make out I need to wire the switch in series with the earth wire from the starter relay (pin 86). However i tried this i cut the earth wire from pin 86 wired it back through the switch and it started in gear as before. I then tried it by wiring the switch through pin 86 of the starter relay and then to ground on the battery. This time it didn't start in gear as it should but however when I turned the key to the first position with it in park it started. Now I know this isn't right but can't figure out why it's doing this. I'm thinking of trying to wire the switch in series with the ignition switch (crank position)to starter relay wire which is white/red and I belive it is pin 85. Could this work or has the switch got to go to ground? many thanks Karl

Your quite right this bar (genuine Land Rover) doesn't have a bit that extends to the seat belt bracket on the side support but it does have (Although it cant be seen in the picture) have a bracket to bolt through the top of the capping. I guess if its good enough for land rover then it's good enough for me.

Well my bar arrived and i got to work fitting it. Heres a few pics of the bar in place. It gives the impression there is loads more room inside, not to mention the seats now go back further and are able to recline quite far. So at least the misses will be happy on long journeys and will be able to get her head down.

Hi guy's, just a quick update on this old thread for any one else whos having issues fitting after market seats. I came across this item to solve the problem with after market seats. There designed for cobra seats but with slight modification I got them to fit my recaro replicas. My seat is now in a much better driving position than i had it before. I also put a spacer under the rear of the bracket to raise up the rear of the seat to compensate for the slope of the seat box. I now have plenty of room between the steering wheel and my legs allowing plenty of room to get in and out. I also thought it was quite good value for money as well. http://www.devon4x4.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&product_id=1665&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=14

thanks for your replys guy's. I've not heard of the throttle heater on the plenum, I'll have a look at that at the weekend. My fans are moe than up to the job of cooling it. If or when it has boiled over when I switch the fans on it brings the temp back to normal really quickly. I just need to get another thermostatic switch as I have a habbit of forgetting to switch the fans on. I think its an age thing lol Anyway I've got more than enough things to keep me out of the way of her in doors at the weekend lol

Hi, Just came across this whilst looking through fleebay and thought id share the information, if any one is looking for a bulkhead removal bar or thinking of doing so there is a seller on fleebay selling genuine landrover items for £65 plus £15 postage. Miles cheaper than the aftermarket ones and the ones where you only remove the top half. The only bits he hasn't got with them is the nuts and bolts. The item no is: 250764305506 karl

Thanks for the replys guy's ive not heard of the throttle heater on the plenum, I'll check that this weekend. And get hold of a new thermostat to put in. i've got two huge electric fans on it which has no probelms cooling it down. I just think it gets hot far too quick. ive got a good few things to check out on it this weekend to keep me out of the way of her in doors lol.

Hi thanks for the qiuck reply, I forgot to say I've got twin electric fans fitted on a manual switch as my thermostatic switch broke. so I tend to switch the fans on when the temp gets to about 90c which is only when its at idle or heavy traffic. I've not got a thermostat fitted at the moment. I had heard that a faulty ECU coolent temp sender could cause poor fuel consumption so I'll try a new one of those as well as getting it timing checked. My main concern was the over heating at idle although is fine when the fans are running. Whats the best way to check for an air lock and the best way to bleed it?

Hi, I have recently fitted a 3.9 efi auto into my 90, The engie always starts first time and runs nice and smooth.The problem I'm having is that at idle it over heats fairly quickly to the point of boiling over. How ever if I switch the fans on it will sit at about 70c and when driving around it is fine. The cooling system does not over pressurise and I'm not losing any coolant. I do how ever get a fair amount of white ish smoke from the exhaust on start up when cold and lasts for quite a while but then clears. i haven't yet done any tests for head gasket or slipped liner as It's not showing any of the symptoms as such. The motor to me seems to lack power compared to a 3.9 efi rrc I had a few years ago and seems to have way excessive fuel comsumption even for a v8. One thing I did was to fit a new distributor and not have the timing checked. Could it be possible for the timing to be out enough as to cause the over heating but still run ok, or am I looking at the dreaded liner problem. I also fitted a new radiator when I fitted the engine. The water pump is working ok and at the moment there is no thermostat fitted. If any one has had a simular problem or advice it would be great to hear. Many thanks Karl

Hi Guy's, i've recently got hold of as pair of recaro replicas for my landy. I have fitted the drivers one but am experiencing the same as mentioned above with leg room and heigh issues getting in and out of the cab but very comfy whilst driving. I've decided to bolt the base of my recaros directly to the seat box and to raise the rear of the seat by half an inch or so to compenaste for the slope of the seat box and to give me a bit more leg room between the steering wheel and seat. I have the same issue with the battery under the passengers seat, I've come up with the idea of fitting battery terminals in the engine bay as bmw's have as some of there batterys are in the boot, that way you will be able to charge or jump start from under the bonnet without having to access the battery. I'm also concidering to make an accsess hatch in the side wall of the seat box under the passengers legs to be able to get to the battery if needed without having to remove the seat. The problem with this i can see would compromise the wading depth unless you can seal it properly. I'm also looking into bulkhead removal bars to enable the seats to be able to be pushed back further. I'm just not sure weather to go for the mud one and only remove the top half or go for the one like the tomb raider one and remove the whole bulkhead.