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Guy H

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  1. Update on the rear body x-member When I started it looked like the first photo and I thought I was going to get away with just new mounts - then I poked at the underseal with a screwdriver and found that the steel behind the underseal had long since departed the underseal gave way lol This the start of the poking - it got worse !! If you look in the hole you can see the original wax still on the upper part of the x-member!! Drilled out all the spot welds, attacked it with the air saw and it came out pretty easily. So, ordered new mounts and underneath panel from YRM old and new - spot the difference. and it fits!! picture is self explanatory as to what you need to do I think, so no real point going through the steps of getting it in there. Note the reinforcing section inside. You have to open up a flap each side to get the panel in - you could undo teh body and lift it, but I thought this way was easier - just weld it up again. I'm impressed with the panel fit :-) This might be useful so thought I'd post info that it can be done as I haven't seen it done before (just the bottom bit that is) I'm guessing it's taken about 3 hours after the bumper was off, most of that drilling spot welds & cleaning it up.
  2. Thanks for the link - certainly useful :-) and persuaded me I'm not mad Oh for a plasma cutter ...... I'm cutting the rot out with an air hammer and a panel chisel which works really well, may have a go with it on the new sheet, but it really needs something to work against to cut properly, and when it goes wrong it makes a bit of a mess. Managed to remove the underneath of the x-member and the 2 rear mounts today Need to make a decision about MIG gas this week - I'm undecided between Adams Gas and BOC Crawley (I presume they still do monthly rental) .... thoughts anyone (I have read the tech thread Argoshield in the South East and they ended up with BOC) The Adams gas bottle contain 60ltrs of gas - how far would that get me?? Right break over - try and clean up the underneath of the x-member ready for the new and chop out more rot Guy
  3. I went for a new hinge - much stronger than the original too. I only bothered with the bottom one - it seems to be the one that suffers most. Tools I managed it by myself with drill & bit to drill out the rivet, socket & ratchet & a couple of lumps of wood and a trolley jack. This is from memory from a couple of years ago so sorry if I forget anything Support open door and wedge to stop it opening/closing (the door is stupidly heavy especially if you leave the tyre on) remove old hinge & spacers - 1 of the door bolts is behind the door trim IIRC the other is under a black plastic cap?? replace with new nip up bolts tight but not fully tight Try and close door - odds on it won't fit now You can move the hinge - body mounts up and down, in and out and shim - lots of variable and possibly hours of fun to get the door square in the hole and touching the rubber seal all the way round. The lock striker pin and the 'catchy bit' can also be moved. Whilst hanging the door properly I took mine off I think. The door hadn't fitted properly before but is perfect now hth
  4. Yes, the wheel arch 'under the void was only being held in place by the rubber underseal - I now have a free floating 'C' pillar - not good. The driver's side rear seatbelt mount is perfect, the n's one fell out. It hasn't been offroaded as there is no silt build up in the sills - in fact, other than the ends and the patch on the driver's floor they are in very good nick. Looking in from the rear end the inner sill looks almost perfect!! Yet the back end has rotten out completely. The rear x-member whereas I thought I would get away with 2 new mounts and patches - once I got in there with a screw driver, the lower panel of the x-member, between the mounts was pretty non existant. The top, under the 'step' covering is almost as new - original paint!! yet the o/s mount fell out once I had undone the bolt ... I have received a new 'underneath' and new mounts from YRM - I have drilled all the spot welds and tomorrow should see the old half removed. I will try and take pics if anyone is interested. I think that it has suffered from salt roads - it used to 'live' in the Lake District and I just think the salty water got under the underseal at all the panel joints and just rotted through. All the bad bits are directly in the line of the tyre spray. Thanks for the advice everyone Is 1.2mm sheet the 'normal size used for body repairs? 1.8 seems mighty thick and hard work
  5. I can weld - MIG & gas & I've also got a stick welder with TIG kit (but never used it), my fabrication skills are not great though. I'd like to get it through the MOT so I can then repair 'at my leisure' rather than have it off the road for ages. I'm going to cut out all the rot in the rear body x-member and I have bought replacement parts for that. There are no back seats in it, so the rear arches are not so important BUT I'd like some pointers for repairing the bits over the arches and back. Over the arch - do I repair the inner arch first the horizontal bit, but then how do I do the vertical bit - not sure I can cut a piece accurate enough to touch all the way round IYSWIM. & what gauge of steel should I use the original (especially the rear vertical piece) is pretty thin, but it has the 'corrugations' in for strength.
  6. Hi All After some advice. Sills are not bad really both rears ends are bad and the driver's front is shot and there is obviously a bit missing on the driver's floor. So, do I patch up or box section them? The Disco isn't a pretty one - it's servicable tool (or was!!) I've got to replace both rear crossmember mounts and a chunk of the underside of the xmember as well, but other than that it is pretty sound. The floor is ok for a while but the area that shocked me was the rear inner arches and back. As you can see from the pics, there is a bit of a hole I've not really seen this before so was after thoughts as to the best way of dealing with it. Driver's side is worse, I've removed the wheel arch already as there really wasn't anything left at the top, but from there backwards there is a large hole between the arch/floor and the vertical side. HELP!!! I would really appreciate advices as to how do I deal with this area? Sorry about the rubbish picture quality - taken on my phone with the sun setting certainly upsets it. Cheers Guy
  7. yes, I was hoping the fittings would be the same then I would have 4 to choose from - but no just off to go and get one now Cheers
  8. I'll go and try it now - I've got a 200tdi I'm breaking so hopefully one of those will fit thanks, hadn't thought of that
  9. ok, on my way back from Belgium last weekend we had to stop on the motorway due to the terrible smell of burning friction material, and the small matter of the smoke and small fire inside the n/s wheel arch (safely extinguished with a bottle of water ) Following a trip home on the back of an RAC truck I went to work. Presuming the caliper had seized I ripped it apart and changed all the seals and pistons bolted it back on, new pads and ............ blinking thing did it again !!!!! Now I have worked out what's happening - the pressure is not being let go from the n/s caliper after braking. It releases from the o/s front and the backs are fine, just the n/s front. If I undi the bleed nipple and release teh pressure, I can spin the disc again. SO wtf is going on ....... pressure reducing valve??? that seems to be the only thing that the one brake is connected to by itself - the master cylinder works both fronts so it shouldn't be that 'pumping up' Anyone else come across this before? is the PRV cleanable/rebuildable? it's a '98 300tdi with the 5 line PRV Guy
  10. Guy H

    sun roofs

    Or this one http://www.muckytruckin.co.uk/pages/techni...f/discoroof.asp I used that one and it worked a treat. FWIW neither of my sunroofs leaked at the drains, they both leaked through the sunroof - roof seal (OEM is a bit of draught seal type stuff) goes hard & won't seal, water then gets in and dripped through the screw heads. Most likely once you've got the lining down you'll exactly where the problem is. Lining is surprisingly easy really, remember the interior light wires & stuff & don't worry about bending it, it springs back and the creases disappear. Getting it back in is much easier with two, but it can be done by yourself with a bit of swearing !! Whilst the lining's out check the alpine window seals and the roof to side seal esp at the rear quarters.
  11. and you can 'chip' the EDCs if you want a bit more. You can also get adjustable 'chips' so you can turn the power up & down depending on your mood (and how long you want the engine to last ;-) As has been said they can suffer from niggly faults but they are relatively easy to track down given the right tools & info.
  12. Are you sure they are the EDC ones? Did one of the set have a wire with a plug on? The 'mechanical' injectors are cheap & easily obtainable. However, the cheapest I found the ERR3337 was about £130 each!! although you only need 1 of those (IIRC they are nearly £300 retail)
  13. Are you thinking of getting some new ones? They are frighteningly expensive, especially the one with the sensor I've just had a set rebuilt by Diesel Bob (about £23ea + VAT) - they should be back with me soon. I bought a s/h set of EDC ones and got those reconditioned so my Disco woouldn't be off the road. Once I get mine back I will have a s/h set for sale in perfect condition for a recon (sensor is ok) Guy
  14. Pin 25 is the TPS idle switch, so yes that's what it should do. The clicking is not the load relay - that relay seems to power the ECU, it would seem that the ECU has the ability to shutdown its own power!!? If you are interested in tracking down the clicking, you could have a look at pin 6 - red lead on pin 16 or 17, black on 6 Good luck
  15. Try unplugging the ECU, spraying contact cleaner in there, then plugiing it in and out a couple of time and see if that helps. Otherwise you'll need to do the same multimeter tests that sotal did and post the results.
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