MudAllOverIt

Just FWIW, the factory Superwinch H14 installations with PTO driven pumps and auxiliary take-off that LR Special Vehicles did for utility companies have the oil tank slung underneath the passsenger seat. The pick-up is well below the height of the pump.

1997 300 Tdi, 142k miles. Gearbox and transfer box rebuilt. The gearbox was completely knacked at about 130k miles (2nd gear synchro completely gone, mainshaft wobbling about like a wobbly thing and it was binding up in reverse). The engine and the rest of the driveline have been completely troublefree -- no issues at all so far.

Absolutely correct IMHO

Thanks Tony -- that'll do for me and is a much simpler way of fixing it than I was thinking off

The weird thing is the simplest of web searches turns up multiple hits which give me the part number and a host of on-line retailers who do the (3 stud) heatshield (can get that for 6 quid on-line!!) and pillars for the original 65A alternator fitted to 300Tdi Defenders but I've not been able to any part number references or on-line retailers for the (4 stud) heatshield for the 100A alternator fitted to 300Tdi Discos although it's mentioned in a couple of places. Got to get some small stuff from our local main dealer this week anyway and will ask if they list it but even if they do I suspect prices will be silly. If I can't find anything I'll just get some standoffs and knock something up to use the old heatshield. Cheers,

Good to know. Was a bit concerned that on the 300Tdi the back of the alternator will end up about two/three inches from the downpipe. But looking at it the wire I ran to the W terminal on the old alternator hasn't come to any harm so far.

I've just bought a 100A AMR5425 Magneti Mirelli (Denso) alternator to replace the factory-fitted 65A AMR4249 Magneti Mirelli on our 300Tdi D90. The original 65 A alternator used a heatshield with a three-stud fixing whereas the reaplacement uses a 4-stud fixing for the heatshield. Does anyone know what he LR part numbers are for (1) the 4-stud heat shield and (2) the mounting pillars for the AMR5425 alternator? The 100A alternator is about an inch or so deeper than the 65A one so it's back cover will be closer to the manifold and don't want to risk it without the heat shield. Cheers,

Yup. Drill and tap the manifold.

As I understand it the theory appears to be that road spray from the opposite tyre gets the inboard face of the disc mucky which wears the pad on that side quicker than the one on the outside. I've been running with the N/S shield in place and the O/S shield missing (torn off when of-roading) for about three years and I've noticed no appreciable difference in pad wear (high road mileage and high off road mileage). Cheers,

I know it's quite well-known, but I've always found Laurence Binyon's "For the Fallen" very evocative: With proud thanksgiving, a mother for her children, England mourns for her dead across the sea. Flesh of her flesh they were, spirit of her spirit, Fallen in the cause of the free. Solemn the drums thrill; Death august and royal Sings sorrow up into immortal spheres, There is music in the midst of desolation And a glory that shines upon our tears. They went with songs to the battle, they were young, Straight of limb, true of eye, steady and aglow. They were staunch to the end against odds uncounted; They fell with their faces to the foe. They shall grow not old, as we that are left grow old: Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn. At the going down of the sun and in the morning We will remember them. They mingle not with their laughing comrades again; They sit no more at familiar tables of home; They have no lot in our labour of the day-time; They sleep beyond England's foam. But where our desires are and our hopes profound, Felt as a well-spring that is hidden from sight, To the innermost heart of their own land they are known As the stars are known to the Night; As the stars that shall be bright when we are dust, Moving in marches upon the heavenly plain; As the stars that are starry in the time of our darkness, To the end, to the end, they remain.

I get 1.2 bar max (measured at the inlet manifold as per the pic above). 1.2 bar = 17.4 psi. You should see what a sustained uphill run at full boost holding a steady 65mph (on the A9 actually) into a strong headwind does to the exhaust gas temperature :lol: Cheers,

Yes -- it's all McNally kit for their combined EGT/Turbo Boost gauage. I used an OE EGR gasket in combination with the drilled and tapped EGR blanking plate that McNally supply (it's listed for VW applications but is perfect for the 300Tdi). The OE gasket adds a fair bit of height (it's the one that sandwiches a spacer inbetween two gaskets) and in combination with the McNally plate provides for a fair bit of depth for the thermocouple.

I drilled and tapped the inlet manifold to fit mine - pic below:

Complete PITA when they get stuck -- which I found both of mine were when I went to remove the EGR stuff. I ended up cutting the heads off with a hacksaw blade, then I was able to drill and re-tap. FWIW I used studs and brass nuts when I fitted the blanking plate. I've got a thermocouple mounted through the blanking plate for an EGT gauge and want to give myself at least an odds on chance of being able to get the blanking plate off easily in the future if I ever need to

FFS the pedal pivot was in a hell of state. But it cleaned up fine, and now that it's back in there with new a TRW MC and slave what a difference. The clutch pedal has never felt so good Bearing in mind that the clutch MC was replaced about 18 months cause it was leaking fluid into the drivers footwell, I supect that clutch fluid had contaminated the pivot, washed out whatever grease that was left in there after ten years, and the muck left behind has gradually dried out and seized the pivot. I think in future if I've ever got the pedal box off to fix a leaking clutch MC I'll strip and clean the pivot as a matter of course.

Been wondering exactly the same thing myself Steve. Profiteering on the part of the petrol suppliers -- surely not

It's already been said a few times in this thread but a good MT (manual transmission) oil is what you what for LT77s and R380s. Not sure why people persist with ATF -- LR themselves stopped using it in their manual Defender manual gearboxes about ten years ago. From Redline's product line MTL is what you want. End of story. IMHO you'd need to careful with that in colder climates in e.g. UK and Canada -- don't know about the LT77 but higher viscosity oils than MTF94, MTL etc will cause problems with the oil pump in R380s in colder climates. I've heard of folks in Oz deliverately going to thicker viscosity oils cause MTL in particular is prone to thinning out too much.

IMHO Redline MTL would be a better choice. RedLine MTL BTW Land Rover stopped specifying ATF for R380s and LT77 years ago. The Land Rover spec'd oil for these boxes is MTF94. MTL is direct synthetic replacement for MTF94.

A final follow-up and a final question -- Managed to nurse it along until a couple of weeks ago at which point the pedal very quickly got so stiff I was having to pull it up with my foot When I drained the fluid I was still thinking MC -- fluid was black (see pic below) in spite of flushing clean fluid through the system a couple of weeks after the original posting. Contrary to what I suspected the bloke that fitted new MC and clutch slave a year past in April used decent parts -- Girling MC and AP slave. Slave was found to be OK when I took it off -- spring a bit weak in comparison to the new TRW slave that I fitted but otherwise OK. Biggest surprise was finding that the MC was operating OK once I removed it from the pedal box The problem all along has been the pedal pivot seizing up -- to the point where it stuck solid. It's not freeing up either so it's a complete strip down now and replace bushes etc. Or it will be when I've got the bloody retaining pin out of the pivot shaft -- can't shift the damn thing at all at the moment Anyway -- what's likely to have caused the fluid to go black? Is it the seal breaking up as suggested above (MC wasn't leaking at all)?

Been on Sarn Helen a couple of times and it stands out as one of the best we've done during our few trips south of the border. At the end of the big land owners can more-or-less do as like cause they've got the money and clout so I reckon if I ever win the lottery I'll set up a trust fund to fight this kind of carp -- but we all know what the chances of that happening are so I reckon I'll just keep dreaming...

Just out of interest I assume the cylinder casting has TRW in raised lettering on the right-hand side looking from the front? If the cylinder casting doesn't have TRW on it anywhere then I would imagine someone's put a pattern part in a Lucas /TRW box (BTW they're now coming in red TRW boxes, no Lucas or Girling marked anywhere).

And I'm a Scot living in Scotland and happily paid the £45... So much for your stereotypes

I recently finished mine as well. This was one hell of a god-awful mess before I got it all into the Mud Console and Mud Pod. Stripped the whole dash out so that the wiring could be laid in properly.

Glad I found this thread -- expect that I'll need to replace our Grizzlies in the next six months or so. I've had no problems myself with Grizzlies and would be happy to keep using them if I can get them -- but I do accept others have had problems. A UK-only search at google.co.uk for Bronco 4x4 will turn up a lot if useful hits (albeit from earlier in the year, Feb-Mar time), this one in particular: Bronco 4x4 in Liquidation Looks like they're best avoided at the moment. Didn't Bronco get their tyres made by Colway -- I did wonder what Bronco would do when Colway went bust?

Fair point My answer was a bit lazy -- what I meant was that minor tweaks to the fuelling after I fitted the Brunel intercooler did not result in the EGT going over spec.